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. 




SIX MONTHS 



AT THE 



WORLD'S FAIR 



By MRS.MARK STEVENS. 



A LITTLE HERE AND A LITTLE THERE OF THE 
GREAT WHITE CITY-THE WORLD'S FAIR. 



Entered according to Act of Congress, 1895, by Mrs. Mark Stevens. 
All rights reserved. 



•v< o F ' c P*5> 







PUBLISHED BY 

THE DETROIT FREE PRESS PRINTING COMPANY. 

1895. 



COPYRIGHTED 

1895. 

ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 



VYV 



Address business communications regarding this 
book to 

MRS, MARK STEVENS, 

Pli-ntj Genesee Co,, Mich, 



RESPECTFULLY 

DEDICATED 

TO 

THE NATIONS OF THE EARTH 

AND 

WORLD'S FAIR FRIENDS. 



INDEX. 



Dedication, 

Introduction, 

Two Months before the Fair, 

Reminiscent and Retrospective, 

The Battleship ''Illinois," 

The Viking Ship, 

'The Ship "Progress." 

Vancouver's Island Indians. . 

The Cliff -Dwellers, 

The Infanta of Spain, 

Duke Veragua, 

The Caravels of Spain, 

The Convent of La Rabida, 

The Maharajah, 

New and Old Mexico, 

Victoria House, 

TatersalPs British Military Tournament, 

Japan, . . 

The French Building, 

Germany, .... 

Brazil, . . 

Italy, 

Wandering About, 

The Colorado Mine, 

"Blarney Castle" and the "Irish Village." 

The South Sea Islanders, 

The Burnese Alps, 

The Java Village. 

Hagenbeck's Menagerie, 

The Moorish Palace. 

The Original Guillotine on which Marie Antoinette was Executed 

The Streets of Cairo, . 

The Ferris Wheel, 

The Hawaiian Panorama, 

The Dahomians, 

The Ostrich Farm, 

Sitting Bull's Log Cabin, 

An Evening on Midway, 

A Letter to the Scribe, 

A Day on Midway and the Battle of Sebastopol 

The Cold Storage Fire, 





7 


9 




14 




17 




18 




20 




22 




24 




26 




28 




33 




37 




39 




40 




44 




49 




53 




56 




60 




69 




73 




78 




84 




85 




87 




88 




89 




92 




94 


ecuted, 


100 




101 




104 




109 




110 




112 




113 




117 




122 




132 




141 



INDEX. 



United States Art, . 

United States Sculpture, 

United States Loan Collection 

United States Water Colors, 

Art of Austria, 

Art of Belgium, 

Society of Polish Artists, . 

Art of Holland, 

Art of Norway and Sweden, 

Art of Russia, 

The Fish and Fisheries, 

The Government Building, 

The Woman's Building, 

The Children's Building, 

Puck's Building, 

The White Star Line, 

Transportation Building and the "Johnny Bull 

Mines and Mining, 

Electrical Building, 

Anthropological Building 

Administration Building, 

The Illumination, 

Agricultural Building, 

Machinery Hall, 

Forestry Building, 

Louisiana, 

Mt. Vernon, Virginia, 

West Virginia, 

Kentucky, 

Montana, 

Utah, 

Arkansas, 

Colorado, 

Kansas, 

South Dakota, 

Washington, 

Idaho, the Gem of the Mountains, 

California, 

Nebraska, 

Maine and Indiana, 

Chicago Day, 

The Illinois Building, 

Minnesota, 

Massachusetts, ... 

Pennsylvania, 

Michigan, 

Dedication of the Michigan Building 

Additional Remarks, 

New York, .... 



' Train. 



INTRODUCTION 



No one regrets more than the writer that every country 
and State could not receive full mention. However, the 
topic "A Letter to the Scribe" will bring in some short 
notices, while the Western States, especially the young- 
est, have in some cases had more attention bestowed upon 
them than upon the others. For lack of space but little 
could be said upon any, and as the Western States are the 
most interesting, the aim has been to commence their 
earliest history, leading on quickly to '93, into World's 
Fair history. 

Statistics have been mentioned in a slight way, and as 

little as possible, the aim being to relieve it of dryness by 

way of weaving in some romance, while accompanying 

the reader over the ground from one point of interest to 

. another. 

Everyone in the Fair was kind and "too lovely for any- 
thing," except that English Guard and those three French 
ones ; the first being spoken of in the Victoria House, the 
others in France. 

When asked if it were possible to write "Midway" de- 
cently, the answer quickly came, "Yes;" the instruction 
found there was in many respects of inestimable value, 
while amusements were to be seen galore, strange people 
and their sayings, the advertising of many fakirs at doors 
of their shows, while sellers frantically waved articles of 
merchandise before us, yelling "nicey," "goody," "cheapy," 
until we were thoroughly impressed what great salesmen 
these dark shadowv sons of the desert were. 






8 INTRODUCTION. 

Every exhibit of interest, like the Hawaiian Panorama,, 
has received due notice, and some attention has been 
paid to the people of every country. 

"An evening on Midway" gives but a slight idea of the 
performances given by staid, dignified Americans. 

With these remarks now is launched on the broad sea 
of literature, a pirate-like appearing bark, laden with 
"Six Months at the World's Fair." Whether or not it is 
fair sailing over a summer sea under a sky of blue, or goes 
down into the stormy trough of the sea, its wreckage be- 
ing completed by the fiery darts of criticism shot from out 
a black, heavy cloud hanging low in the east, remains to 
be seen. So, if it shares the fate which many other storm- 
beaten barques have suffered, going to the bottom never to 
rise, not a vestige of the wreckage ever floating to shore, 
then the verdict will be, "That humanity has been spared 
much martyrdom," and they have escaped gazing upon the 
last lines of this topic, which are the scribe's heartfelt 
sentiments toward humanity. 

"Your goodness, your sorrow, your hopes for to-morrow, 

Your cause you so nobly defend; 
Your glory and gladness, your grief and your sadness, 

Are mine, too, for I am your friend." 



Six Months at the World's Fair. 



TWO MONTHS BEFORE THE FAIR. 

Hundreds beside the scribe who were guests at the 
Hyde Park Hotel will not forget the pleasant life there. 
The days were filled with work for all officials from every 
part of the globe, but in the evenings, which were spent 
by them as guests in the great parlors, all met on the 
common plane of sociability. The great Exposition being 
of intense interest to all, never was the helpful spirit of 
broad-minded philanthropy, combined with real interest 
to be helpful to each other, more greatly manifested. 

In those evenings were held conversations by brilliant 
men and women: of letters, when flashed forth wit and 
repartee, clear and pure as the lights in a diamond. 
Among them were musicians of high attainments, and 
through the great rooms rolled "waves of melody" from 
Russian masters, played by Count Datoll, the Russian 
ambassador under the Czar. Often wandering minstrels, 
with harps and violins, would station themselves near the 
marble staircase inspiring all to impromptu dancing. As 
an English lady said: 

"This is just Bohemian enough to be spicy," 
as lords, dukes and counts politely led the ladies out 
to trip "the light fantastic." 

A pretty sight it was to see richly robed ladies from 
over the whole world chaperoning young girls, looking 
airy, neat and sweet in light, fine-textured costumes. On 
warm evenings windows were raised, then floated out on 
the air the rich combination of an Italian tenor, a French 
bass, an English alto, and an American soprano. Then 
elocutionists added their no small mite. 



10 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

Every day the hotel register contained a long list of new 
arrivals, and we were not mistaken in knowing what 
country they came from, on looking at their features, but 
the "Midway" parties were refreshing affairs, for on the 
morning of arrival of natives from different lands, we were 
all there from "Hyde Park" to welcome Egyptians, Sou- 
danese, Turks, Bedouins, Arabs, Japanese, etc. They 
were all excitement and wonder over Americans, sidling 
about them in great curiosity as they noticed their man- 
ners and dress. 

A few Arabs and Turks spoke broken English. A blue- 
robed boy, whom we named "Toby," rushed up to us, 
wildly shaking a string of beads and bells, yelling: 

"Donkey come. Me ride, me bet, me win." 

We found out that he meant the donkeys would arrive 
the next day, and about their necks would be placed 
strings of beads and bells. A young Egyptian, dressed in 
a blue robe of fine texture, wearing a fez to match, both of 
these were embroidered in gold, handed us his card, bowed 
like a courtier, and stated in very good English he wished 
a position as a lady's servant, that being the capacity in 
which he served in Egypt. 

Eyes like night, set in faces of Oriental women, peered 
from behind latticed windows ; a black giant strode majes- 
tically back and forth guarding the door of this building. 
A few evenings later some wicked Americans came and 
gave him "something" out of a bottle, causing him to yell 
and bound like a deer, half as high as the buildings of the 
streets of Cairo. It so happened that he was placed in 
a patrol-wagon which afterward took in a company of 
Indians and cowboys from "Buffalo Bill's" show. The 
cowboys were not under arrest, but went along to see the 
"fun," and decided to plead the Indians' and giant Arab's 
cause. As they stepped in before the justice, it did not 
take long to join hands and form a circle about the judge, 
giving a war dance, whooping, while he cowered back in 
mortal terror, the policemen standing helpless with clubs 
at their sides, as the Arab, with one bound, cleared the 
long table fronting the judge. 

Presently one of the cowboys stepped in front of him, 
saying : 

"Yer honor, I'm a pleader to these 'uns. They're not 
drunk; they're just drunk; that's all." 

The amused judge, thoroughly alive to the funniness 
of the occasion, asked questions after this fashion: 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 11 

"What are you not up for?" 

The cowboy motioned the Arab to the table. With one 
bound he was upon it, falling with it as its legs spread in 
every direction. 

"Now, judge," says their pleader, "don't keep them in 
suspenders. Don't rob them of their feathers, trappings, 
and—" 

"Their colossal dignity," says the judge, as was wafted 
to his nostrils the dying aroma of liquor, causing him to 
say, in a weak, yet tragic voice: 

"You may go on suspended sentence." 

When in the streets of Constantinople, we passed into 
a long building; the walls being richly draped with Turk- 
ish materials and decorated with armor, shields, helmets 
and swords, ages old. We were politely welcomed by 
Tadella Bey, a Turkish gentleman, who kindly escorted 
us to another building, where was a beautiful room rep- 
resenting the sleeping apartments of the Sultan. In the 
center was a solid silver bedstead; rich Turkish rugs were 
on the floor, while drapings of silk adorned the ceiling and 
walls. Unique stands were inlaid with mother of pearl, 
upon one rested a Turkish pipe. The smoke is inhaled 
through a long rubber tube, after it has passed through 
the water in the globe, which has a pipe attachment; so 
we suppose, if the Sultan wished he smokes in bed, allow- 
ing the smoke to escape as he desires from his royal 
mouth or his aristocratic nostrils. 

A princess died on this bedstead, and superstition 
teaches them that no other relatives must sleep upon it, 
or they will suffer "the death" immediately. In such an 
event the bed is worthless to the relatives, so it is sold to 
strangers. 

Tadella Bey secured this for $25,000. It was massive 
and magnificent. Large twisted corner posts stood eight 
feet high; from the top of each ran silver bars, meeting in 
a canopy overhead. About these twined grape vines, 
heavy with leaves and grapes; these running to the raised 
center-piece, from which hung a cluster of pomegranates, 
plums, and nectarines. Hanging in luxuriance from the 
top of each post were clusters of fruit. 

The base of the bed was handwrought in curious, open- 
work patterns; so high was it that when ready for occu- 
pancy it was climbed into by a silver ladder with six steps. 

Leading from this room was a long hall, where we 



12 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

looked upon elegant portieres, draperies, rugs, and old 
armor, covered with the corrosions of age. 

Many were the cold, muddy walks taken over the 
grounds, through unfinished buildings, with their partly 
unpacked exhibits, which caused us to slyly peek and see 
all we could, regardless of guards, whose strict orders 
were for people to "pass on;" climbing over flat cars to 
look at various things and wonder where they came from, 
and where we would see them next. 

Before the gates opened for the Fair, the keepers were 
not really particular, for often we asked them if they 
were not inclined to look in an opposite direction from us. 
One always replied: "It is not necessary, as I have 
dreadful spells of blindness, and one of them has just 
come on. While I yet cannot see, pass through, ladies, 
and if you are as sorry as you profess to be for me, tell no 
one; then I'll not have to die 'the death/ " 

On every occasion the same cheery reply was wafted 
back to him : "You're our 'dahling Cholly,' and we'll not 
tell." 

Later on, when one of the ladies held a pass and the rest 
of her party did not, she told him she "was fresh from the 
kentry, and dasn't stir a blessed step without the rest of 
them," they chiming in : 

"We're all farmers, and dasn't budge an inch without 
we're all together." 

"Fresh people should not be separated, and I am above 
committing such a sin. I have another of those blind 
spells." 

As we turned our steps toward the Wellington Restaur- 
ant, situated on the second floor of Horticultural Hall, our 
usual response flashed back to him, "You're our 'dahling 
Cholly,' " etc. 

"Ladies of the Hyde Park," you remember that day on 
which we visited the greenhouse, looking upon fields of 
Persian violets of every hue, then passed into another 
glory of primroses, which were three times larger than a 
silver dollar, where were Cinanaries, Alconas, and thou 
sands of others in bloom? Then we retraced our steps 
to the Horticultural Building and passed through 
"Crystal Cave," which was situated under a center-piece 
of rocks and earth, making a mammoth mound over which 
vines trailed. It was set with stately palms twelve and 
fifteen feet high. A century plant loaned by Mrs. Mark 
Reeves, of Richmond, Ind., stood twenty-five feet high. 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 13 

Commencing January 1st, 1893, at 11 a. m., it was found 
that it grew in height, up to February 21st, 718 inches. 
This plant was introduced to gardens in 1840. There 
was the Cygas Virginalis from the East Indies, over thirty 
feet in height. Great beds of Cacti, of every class. From 
the top walls of buildings trailed the Cobia vine, and over 
trellised pillars it clung, where birds nestled and chirped 
as they built their nests or flitted about in the forests 
from Alabama or among fig, orange and lemon trees in 
bloom. 

The sacred banyan tree, resembling the flat-leaved 
cedar, is used by the Japs in landscape gardening. One, 
over one hundred years old, rested in a unique vase of 
Kioto white, decorated with birds and flowers of blue. The 
tree died from the effects of the long journey. 

Everywhere were busy workmen. A Jap chiseled 
marble ornaments for a finish to his bamboo bridge; a 
Swede, assisting him, in broken English said : "Bring you 
hammer," at the same time striking his fist against the 
woodwork of the bridge to make himself understood. 

Men sprayed the trees and plants with nicotine diluted 
in water. Outside the building grew palms and cacti 
twenty and thirty feet high. From the sides of the cacti 
sprang new bulbs. A wag acting like a country lout 
drew about him a crowd as he directed their attention to 
the "gol dern great big cowcumbers, with little cowcum- 
bers growin' out on 'em." 

In the pond fronting the building east were pink, white, 
yellow, and purple lilies resting on broad green leaves. 
Last of all on that day we passed through a large, long 
room, where over two hundred women and men were 
making, on sewing machines run by electricity, hundreds 
of yards of bunting into flags of every nation. 



14: SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 



REMINISCENT AND RETROSPECTIVE. 

The glory and grandeur of the beautiful "White City," 
fraught with happy recollections, is forever a thing of the 
past. Never again will Ave see such sights or hear such 
a conglomeration of all languages, in various forms of 
words called out by fakirs, as did we when passing from 
South Park Station under the Illinois Central Railroad 
tracks and along the route to the Fifty-seventh street 
entrance. 

Nothing drowned the sound of their voices, or their 
energetic efforts to sell their wares, except the cars, which 
if, perchance, thundered over our heads, caused us to run 
a foot race to escape the frightful combination of noises 
and "bein' as how" the scribe and some others came from 
the "kentry," these things frightened us badly. Those 
"keers" thundering over our heads appalled us, and no ar- 
ray of finest rhetoric could convince us but that some time, 
under these very tracks, we'd be "mashed" for the last 
time. However, kind Providence was favorable to His 
children, and fewer accidents happened, perhaps, than 
was expected. One phase of humanity is to know as little 
as possible of fatalities, which, in their sympathetic help- 
lessness, they are unable to prevent or undo. Many na- 
tures are so constituted as to feel every hurt given a fellow- 
creature, yet they would hold the maimed, disfigured vic- 
tims of the most terrible catastrophe lovingly in their 
arms, doing all in their power to sustain them in comfort, 
if 'twere possible, until the final agony was passed, and 
their spirits had winged themselves to other worlds. 

Prof. Winchell says: 

"Who knows but the mansions promised by the Master 
are situated in the many different worlds." 

Constantly it will be found that it has been impossible 
for the scribe not to "switch off," and now that she has 
struggled back into the surging crowd pouring toward 
Fifty-seventh street entrance, finding on every side jost- 
ling, good-natured people, she begins to feel that she is 
again gaining supremacy of the situation. Upon all sides 
could be heard the shrill-voiced advertising of fakirs; 
trusting you'll enjoy this, that it sounds natural: 

"Here's where you get yer fifteen-cent lunch." 

"Here's yer sisslin' hot Frankf orts ; three for ten cents. 
Last yer all day." (Yes, a lifetime.) 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 15 

"Here's nice cold chicken meat, just as good as ever ye 
eat." "Here's yer ice cold lemernade, like yer mother 
useter made. It's makin' while yer waitin'." 

"Smoked glasses make yer handsome; save yer eyes. 
Folks struck blind, deaf and dumb, ef they be goin' inter 
the grounds without these beautifiers." 

"Here's yer 'ficial catalogue. Can't find the buildin's 
nor nothin' in 'um if yer don't buy." 

"Cheapy, nicey, good," yelled an East India man, swing- 
ing his wares frantically about. 

"Guide book — can't guide yerselves. Gives full direc- 
tions. 'Ficial program of the day only one cent. Miss all 
the fun and sights without it." 

An Italian played on an accordion "Ta-ra-ra-a-boom-de- 
ay," singing a jargon of words sounding like "Hornica- 
snookery-hornica-snook," to the end of the air, while a 
child danced among the people, kicking their shins and 
holding out her tambourine for pennies. 

"Ladies and gentlemen, don't go by the greatest show 
on earth. Ye'll regret it to yer dyin' day. Here's where 
ye'll see the two-headed pig, the double twisted Lord-a- 
massa, the Indian-rubber man, who stretches his chist 
skin over his hull face; has the stretchinest skin in the 
worlV 

"Sweet Marie" pealed forth from a hand-organ turned 
by the blind, while into the tin cup held out to them by 
a monkey sympathetic ones hastily threw pieces of silver. 

With nerves at highest tension all hurried through the 
gates of the World's Fair grounds. Wafted to the ear 
were strains of "Marguerite," played by the big organ run 
by machinery, which rested the ladies' brass band of Fen- 
ton, Michigan, who sat on the flat, long roof of the entrance 
into the Esquimaux village, which natives paddled about 
in the lagoon, dressed in skins, running out their tongues 
and making faces at the crowd. Boatmen plied down the 
stream removing green slime and scum from the waters, 
showing how, in every particular, the laws of health were 
observed. All night large forces of men cleaned the 
streets and lawns, while through the day men went about 
with bags, picking up everything, so that no piece of paper 
as large as a penny could be seen. Wagons ran all night 
carrying rubbish to the southwest portion of the grounds, 
where it burned night and day, as did the offal outside the 
City of Jerusalem. 

Every one carries in memory some specially pleasing 
feature of the Fair. All say it was the greatest event of 



16 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

their lives, and it has given value and verity to all other 
things. There never was and may never again be any- 
thing so grand or of like interest that will be as uplifting 
and ennobling. Imperial leaders and their magnificently 
uniformed bands were there from all over the world and 
from every State in the Union. 

Thomas and Sousa, leaders of band music in America, 
— we repeat only what is already known of them — they are 
past masters in their profession. Euscheueyh, the royal 
Prussian director, with his famous band, was stationed in 
the Austrian village. Try as we may, language is in- 
capable of describing such melody as they made. Every 
one had their favorite band, but the officials who were 
there throughout the Fair felt they could place no choice 
on any particular band, the music of all was so pleasing. 

There was the grand Mexican brass and string band; 
Ziehrer and Herold, leaders of the Imperial bands of 
Germany; the Cincinnati and Iowa bands. I am sorry 
not to be able to give the names of their leaders. Then 
there were hundreds of others just as fine. The West 
Point band played on the green for Michigan day. Never 
will we forget how finely was rendered by them the 
"Hunting Song." Like very hunters, loud and gladly 
they sang, "A-hunting we will go." Then came the bay- 
ing of hounds. It seemed that this was the only band 
which could give such genuine zest and reality to this 
composition. 

A large volume could be devoted to the musical attrac- 
tions at the Fair. It rested and gave pleasure to sight- 
seers, not easily described in words, though we knew the 
effect, if it cannot be described. High-class music could 
be heard everywhere, which sent over us thrilling waves 
of happiness, making us feel as light in spirit as were the 
twittering songsters on swaying boughs, singing nature's 
grand hymns of praise, in which we silently assented with 
our whole hearts, which were light as the eider-down, as 
sweetly soothed in lovely music's strains, we looked in 
every direction upon broad, white streets lined with 
marble-like palaces, and on grassy lawns ornamented 
with stately palms, plants and flora of all countries. 

It was an unbearable thought that such beauty, typical 
of heaven itself, should ever be removed, and never did 
the people of the whole world express more heartfelt re- 
gret and sorrow than that so magnificent a dream of 
beauty should be blotted out of existence. 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 17 



THE BATTLE SHIP " ILLINOIS." 

This ship was built under the authority of the United 
States naval department. It faithfully represented one 
of their new battle ships. It was erected on piling in the 
northeastern portion of Jackson Park. It was sur- 
rounded by water, and had the appearance of being 
moored to the wharf. It possessed all the fittings which 
belong to an actual warship, such as turrets, bristling 
with guns, then torpedo tubes, boats, anchors, chains, 
cables, davits, awnings, all deck fittings, showing all ap- 
pliances for working them. Officers, seamen, mechanics, 
and marines were detailed by the Navy Department, so 
the discipline and mode of life on naval vessels was com- 
pletely shown. At the forward end of the upper deck 
was a cone-shaped tower, called "the military mast;" near 
its top were receptacles for sharp-shooters, where were 
mounted rapid-firing guns. 

The battery, all mounted, comprised four thirteen-inch 
breech-loading cannon, twenty six-pounders, rapid-firing 
guns, six one-pound rapid-firing guns, two Gatling guns, 
and six torpedo tubes, or guns. These were placed as in 
a genuine battle ship. 

It was under the command of Lieut.-Com. E. D. Tausig, 
under him Lieut. Poundstone, Ensign Blow, Past Asst. 
Engineer Bennett, Lieut. Russell and Gunner J. J. Walsh, 
all of the United States marine corps. All visitors were 
treated kindly and politely by them, which made them and 
their vessel very popular. 

One day a couple seated themselves for their trip back 
to the city. There were plenty to tell them the battle ship 
would sail in just one hour. Presently the man re- 
marked: "Golly, wife, some of these World's Fair folks 
lie like fun ; for we was told this boat would steam out in 
just fifteen minutes." 

He offered his tickets to Ensign Blow, who kindly in- 
formed him they were for the "Whaleback." 

"Thank you, sir. We did not suppose it made any dif- 
ference to the steamboat folks which \boat we rode back 
on to the city. That fellow who sells ice cream soda 
across from the 'Victoria House' told us this was the boat 
to take." 

When people boiarded this boat to take a ride upon it, 
the mistake is not to be wondered at, for it was a marvel- 
ous deception, and completely rigged for a voyage. 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 



THE VIKING SHIP. 

In the year 994 Lief Ericson, son of Eric, the outlaw, 
sailed with thirty-five men on a voyage of discovery in a 
ship like the "Viking," which was anchored near the 
battle ship "Illinois." 

The Norsemen lived in an uncongenial climate, so were 
led to build these first ships, whereby they might establish 
themselves in a more congenial clime. Their lives w r ere 
spent in planning and executing maritime expeditions. 
Fathers gave fleets to their sons and bade them seek their 
fortunes on the ocean's highway. 

These boats were supplied with stones, arrows, ropes, 
and grappling chains with which to sink or overturn boats 
of the enemy, or use in other ways to draw near to them 
these pirates of the sea, The World's Fair "Viking" w r as 
a perfect pattern of the first old Norse ship of over one 
thousand years ago. She was seventy-eight feet long, six- 
teen feet wide, standing well out of the water, and of 
thirty-one tons burden. On her bow there rose, ten feet 
high, a gilded, grinning dragon's head, with glaring eyes; 
at the opposite end a tail spread out like that of a huge 
fish. Her mast was sixty feet in height, and when sail- 
ing into the harbor carried a large square sail of brown 
and white canvas. Floating from the mast was a scarlet 
flag, bearing a black raven, and the letters "Viking." At 
her head waved the stars and stripes, at the stern the flag 
of Norway. 

She was rowed with steady strokes by a dozen men or 
more after leaving the steamer "Ivanhoe," which had 
towed her up from Evanston, where Capt. Anderson and 
his crew were met by this steamer, which had on board 
Mayor Harrison, the City Council, other prominent citi- 
zens of Chicago, President Higginbotham, Royal and State 
commissioners. This large reception committee, headed 
by Mayor Harrison and President Higginbotham, ex- 
tended their greetings, while Mayor Harrison welcomed 
and extended to them the freedom and hospitality of the 
city. 

The demonstration made over the "Viking" as she sailed 
into the harbor to drop anchor by the modern warship of 
the nineteenth century, was welcomed with the same joy- 
ful enthusiasm and approval as were the Caravals on their 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 19 

arrival. As she slowly sailed along, decked out with 
many ensigns, this grinning head facing us, we wondered 
if the fishes, in fright, had not gone to the bottom forever. 
On inspecting what the Danes and Norwegians had pos- 
sessed as boats, we were amazed that they should have 
endured and lived through the hardships of cruising in 
the Polar regions. 



20 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 



THE SHIP "PROGRESS." 

This historic ship was anchored in the lagoon, not far 
from La Rabida. She was bnilt in 1843, and had seen 
nearly fifty years of service. Built of oak and heavy tim- 
bers, she had defied the icebergs of the Arctics, also serv- 
ing on the Atlantic, Pacific, and Indian Oceans. She was 
fitted out as if ready for a northern cruise with life-boats, 
charts, compasses, quadrants, and all necessary adjuncts. 

On the upper deck were the try kettles and furnaces 
used for melting whale blubber. Below, the space which 
usually was devoted to cargo and berths, had been trans- 
formed into a museum, such as had never been seen before 
in Chicago, containing curiosities numbering into the 
thousands. We have not the slightest desire to name 
many of them, nor the reader to hear them, so, on men- 
tioning a few, will pass on to something else. 

Ambergris, worth $450 per pound, the basis of all high- 
class perfumes, which is the result of intense suffering and 
serious illness of the whale until vomited up by it. The 
lecture was given in broken English by the first mate of 
the boat, a German, commencing like this : 

"Some whales have teeth, others have whiskers," 
pointing to a piece of whalebone about ten feet in length, 
with a heavy fringe on the sides near the end of it. "This," 
he said, "prevents the whale swallowing anything it does 
not want," etc. 

We, as children, remember how we captured little mud- 
turtles by the shore of some lake or river. Here was one 
seven feet long, weighing fourteen hundred pounds. 
There is no old resident who does not remember with hor- 
ror the old buck-saw he used to push through cordwood. 
That was not a circumstance to the saw of the salt water 
saw fish, seen on the "Progress." 

Then we saw the fashionable costume worn by the 
women of the South Sea Islands; a fringy skirt of dried 
grass; next we saw a huge, long skeleton of the much- 
doubted sea-serpent; then a four hundred year old quad- 
rant, which came over in the "Mayflower;" whales' jaws 
fourteen feet long; sharks' teeth, and more skeletons of 
marine monsters; a mummified Australian boy, five hun- 
dred years dead; the wind blew him out of the tree in 
which he was fastened, and sailors brought him away. 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 21 

There were delicate laces which, looked like linen, which 
the women of the South Sea Islands make of the cactus 
plant; horns of the narwhal, of pure ivory, six feet long. 

From the first trip made by the "Progress" in 1844 she 
was a lucky ship. Her first voyage was around Cape 
Horn to the Sandwich Islands, then north to the Arctic 
Ocean, her voyages lasting from three to five years, in every 
case resulting in large profits to the owner and crew, ex- 
cept in 1871, when she lay in the ice of the Arctic Ocean, 
in company with thirty-eight other whaling ships, loaded 
with valuable cargoes of oil. For iire days this staunch 
ship battled with perilous storms in momentary danger 
of being crushed by icebergs and fields of ice which 
hemmed them in on every side. 

At the end of this time she was in clear water forty 
miles south of the ice fields. The next day five of the ships 
hove in sight, making six survivors of the fleet. They re- 
ported the rest of the fleet crushed in the ice, beyond all 
hope of rescue, with twelve hundred souls aboard in immi- 
nent danger. Capt. Dowden called a meeting on board of 
his ship, the "Progress," which was attended by the cap- 
tains and officers of the surviving vessels. They unani- 
mously decided to sacrifice their valuable cargoes of oil 
and rescue the castaways, who soon were aboard their 
ships, sailing toward Honolulu, reaching that port in 
safety. 

The captains of the lost ships presented Capt. Dowden 
with a beautiful gold medal and watch, accompanied by 
a touchingly grateful letter. Capt. Dowden still had 
charge of her at the Fair. 

During the war the ship "Progress" was sold to the 
United States government. It was then filled with stones 
to be sunk at the entrance of Charleston Harbor to pre- 
vent blockade running; but she was spared that fate, and 
after the war was sold to New Bedford parties, who fitted 
her out for whaling in the far north. In two seasons she 
earned them the enormous sum of f 200,000. Chicago par- 
ties heard of this historic old ship, went to New Bedford, 
bought and fitted her out for sea, and started her for Chi- 
cago and the World's Fair. She was towed to Quebec, 
Montreal, then by way of the lakes to Chicago. On arriv- 
ing in the lagoon where she was to be anchored she tipped 
completely over, but, luckily, righted herself with no loss 
or harm done. 



22 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR, 



VANCOUVER'S ISLAND INDIANS. 

These natives, consisting of men, women and children, 
were filthy, ignorant, and suspicious, entirely unmanage- 
able except by a half-breed Frenchman, who married one 
of the squaws, adopting all of their modes of life and be- 
liefs, in order to bring them away from their island and 
carry out his money-making scheme. From the island 
he brought the old weather-beaten boards of huts, which 
were packed in a huge, hewed-out log canoe; also tall posts 
on which were ugly carved faces and hands, daubed in 
various colors. The huts were re-erected upon the Fair 
grounds; from the bottom of each post an archway was 
cut for the spirits of the sun, moon, stars, water, fire, etc. 
These were for good and bad spirits to pass through. 

When coming out or going into their hut they passed 
under the arches of these posts, which they refused 
to come to the Fair without, so as to keep in good nature 
all spirits. Their incantations and rites were horrible. 
We unavoidably saw one of their diabolical performances. 
Rude rollers were fastened to the feet of an Indian, who, 
with the ferocity of a wolf, fastened his teeth into the 
Frenchman's arm, who allowed it to prove his sincerity 
to them. His hands were tied behind him, and the tribe 
unmercifully whipped and compelled him to run in a 
circle upon some boards, drawing the Indian. His arms 
were a mass of bruises and scars, which he exhibited with 
great pride; he said it proved how brave he was. After the 
performance, on being asked if he believed in such foolish- 
ness, he replied, "I no talk when show through." 

Slits were cut in the back of another Indian, then strips 
of tanned hide being run through them, he was whipped 
and driven until the slits were broken. For a while it 
made him insane, and then the tribe considered him a 
god. They were forbidden by the Exposition officials to 
repeat any more of their tortures, but so fearful were they 
of displeasing the gods that they persisted in it more or 
less throughout the Fair. 

Near here were the mat and bark houses of the Winne- 
bagoes of Wisconsin, wigwams from Maine, the Iroquois 
village, Apaches, representatives from British Guinea, 
many selling baskets, bead work and other trinkets. , On 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 23 

the shores of the lagoon were the various canoes of these 
people. 

Not far from here, near the dairy, was a log house of 
pioneer times, its occupants engaged in carding, spinning, 
weaving and knitting. This illustration of Indian and 
pioneer life was a forcible comparison of advancement 
made during the past four centuries, as was shown by the 
Fair and its buildings devoted to material and educational 
interests. 



24 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 



THE CLIFF-DWELLERS. 

This exhibit was shown in the largest artificial moun- 
tain ever made, which appeared to be of red sandstone, 
but was constructed of timbers, staff and sheetiron, then 
painted and sanded to resemble nature. This structure, 
with its tiny clay ruins, was an exact reproduction of 
Battle Rock, only on a small scale, in McElmo Valley, 
overlooking the Mancos river, situated in the southwest- 
ern part of Colorado. 

Mr. Jay Smith, under whose supervision was this ex- 
hibit, spent months exploring these ruins, which were 
seven thousand feet above the level of the sea, extending 
sixty miles from the Mancos to the Animas river. He re- 
turned with thousands of relics, dishes of stone and 
crudely-fashioned pottery resembling animals, but hardly 
distinguishable as such. 

There were found no hieroglyphics of any religion or art 
well developed, as has been found of other races, or writ- 
ings of any kind. These pre-historic people probably con- 
stituted the earliest civilization of the American 
continent. On the heads of some mummies we found very 
light hair, so we decided some of them were blondes. 

A loud-voiced woman, with a growth of chin whiskers, 
asked the young man who was advertising for this ex- 
hibit: "Have you living cliff-dwellers? Are they dan- 
gerous?" 

To the last part of the question he replied : 

"Certainly not, madam." 

"Well, if the rest of the folks are not afraid, I'm not." 

She passed in, and after looking a while at the minia- 
ture ruins she remarked: "These cliff-dwellers must be 
mighty small people. Hope they will come out and show 
themselves, for I want to see them." 

These typical homes of the once living consisted of one 
room, with irregular openings cut in the wall, which 
served as windows. 

Following the trails which led to their homes, we 
passed into mysterious caverns and niches, lighted by elec- 
tricity, disclosing to our view, far back in these dark cav- 
erns, fine oil paintings of the ruins of Colorado, which 
were done by Alex. J. Fournier, the artist of the expedi- 
tion. We came suddenly against high walls and boulders 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 25 

nine and ten feet high, which caused us to wonder how 
they used to climb to their domiciles. 

On emerging from the opening in the top of the moun- 
tain we followed the trail laid out for pack animals and 
visitors, where Rocky Mountain goats skipped about or 
lay in shady ledges. 

At the foot of the mountain we found elk, black-tailed 
deer, moose, etc., which added to the realism of the scene. 



26 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 



THE INFANTA OF SPAIN. 

On the arrival of Princess Eulalie, her suite, and Prince 
Antoine in Washington, they called in state, elaborately 
attired, upon President and Mrs. Cleveland, for whom the 
Princess expressed great admiration — a sentiment we all 
feel — for the "first lady of the land." Washington was a 
beautiful city, she thought, and the United States a great 
and wonderful country. This she knew from reading the 
writings of travelers and hearing descriptions given by 
prominent American officials. 

On their arrival in Chicago they were met by President 
Palmer, Gen. Davis, Officials of the Fair, Mayor Harrison, 
the City Council, United States Infantry, cavalrymen, and 
other organizations. They were extended a hearty wel- 
come to American shores by Mayor Harrison amid boom- 
ing of cannon, ringing of bells, blowing of whistles, and 
playing of bands. As they rode between the lines of en- 
thusiastic spectators the Mayor pointed out to the distin- 
guished party objects of interest, while captains and gen- 
erals acted as body guards, followed by a long line of 
marchers. 

Children were excused from school to' see a real, live 
princess. These irrepressible "young Americas" hurrah- 
ing loudest of all, giving vent to shrill whistles, inter- 
spersed with yells of "Hurrah for Eulalie and Carter." 

They, with the prince, smiled, evidently pleased with 
the wild outburst, which was a genuine, hearty western 
welcome. Many expected to see a stately brunette, but 
were agreeably surprised in seeing a girlish-looking, 
pretty blonde, who conducted herself with charming dig- 
nity, and when standing by the majestic dark-browed 
prince, they made an attractive and imposing-looking 
pair. 

On meeting Mrs. President Palmer, the princess saw 
her equal and peer in queenly beauty, and it was honest 
flattery extended by all that Mrs. Palmer was and is the 
most beautiful woman living. In one of her speeches at the 
"Woman's Building" she said : "We women of the United 
States are all queens, blessed and possessed of more privi- 
leges than are women of any other country, and we improve 
our opportunities to purify social conditions, even before 
casting the ballot. When that opportunity comes we may 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 27 

expect to bring about a social revolution, causing better 
conditions and organizing a common sisterhood and 
brotherhood, it being the-answer to prayers of earnest men 
and women. 5 ' 

At the reception held in the "Woman's Building," in 
honor of Princess Eulalie, there lingers witn us a gentle 
memory of her sweet face, and pretty figure, who on that 
sultry day reminded us of Euterpe, so pure she seemed in 
a light blue silk, white silk gloves, a white sailor hat and 
a fleecy veil, her hair gleaming through it like gold. 

The prince was magnificent in his dress for state occa- 
sions, it being a coat of white doe-skin, lavishly trimmed 
with gold and ermine; one sleeve hanging loose, trousers of 
the same material, shining boots drawn up over his knees, 
about his waist a white watered silk scarf, on which was 
appended insignias of royalty. 

At a concert given at "Festival Hall" in their honor, 
they appeared for a few moments, accompanied by Mayor 
Harrison, Mrs. President Palmer, President Palmer, Gen. 
Davis and others. The princess looked vivacious and 
happy. No doubt she was thinking of the morrow, when 
incog, she would be rolled by a chairboy through the "Mid- 
way." It was, of course, a unique and delightful exper- 
ience for her to pose for one little day as an independent 
American citizen. As she rode along it was not long be- 
fore all knew that it was the princess. She bowed and 
smiled in the most charming manner, seeming really anx- 
ious to recognize all courtesies. She went about like all 
the rest buying at the booths, lunching in the Vienna 
Bakery and dining in the Austrian village. 

Eleven rooms were set aside for her use at the Palmer 
House, many being historic, having been occupied by the 
Princess. Louise, President Cleveland, Grant, Gen. Logan 
and many others, not forgetting the old emperor, Don 
Pedro, of Brazil. It is a pleasure to the people of the 
United States to know that the princess and prince were 
enthusiastic over the reception given them, and returned 
to their country with fine impressions of our great and 
wonderful country, which has given to the world in mag- 
nitude and splendor the grandest Exposition that ever 
has been or ever will be. 



28 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 



DUKE YERAGUA. 

The duke and family were gentle, unassuming people, 
possessed of admirable self poise and culture, goodness 
marking their features and every action, supporting the 
old saying, "Blood will tell." The duke was about five 
and a half feet in height, having light hair and burnsides, 
a trifle gray, mild blue eyes, prominent nose and rather 
large mouth. His kindly face was also capable of firm- 
ness, and even stern severity, if necessary. The duchess 
was a trifle taller than he, looking much younger than she 
really was, with her sparkling brown eyes and sunny 
smile showing perfect teeth; a head of soft brown hair 
completing her attractiveness. It could truly have been 
asserted that she was "fair, fat and forty." 

Their daughter was a handsome blonde with a pink and 
white complexion, about eighteen years of age, "divinely 
tall and divinely fair." Their dark, manly son was about 
twenty-four years of age. The very modesty of this royal 
family was the key to their popularity. 

On the 17th of May, 1893, occurred the seventh birth- 
day of the little King Alphonso of Spain, which was cele- 
brated there with jubilees and festivities of various sorts; 
predominant the cruel bull-fights, where richly-dressed, 
dark-eyed senoritas gave ravishing smiles of encourage- 
ment to the brave caballeros as they waved the red flag in 
front of the maddened bull, whose sufferings are intense 
under the gay ribbons floating from its shoulders, which, 
when they appear, one knows there has been deftly in- 
serted deep in his flesh a sharp, barbed piece of steel. It's 
no matter when, with his sharp horns, he tosses the horse 
with its rider, ripping) the blinded animal open, its entrails 
dropping and dragging upon the ground, the rider spring- 
ing from the horse as it falls, fortunately escaping, per- 
haps a few minutes after to be gored to death. Mean- 
while others are attracting the attention of the bull, while 
if the injured horse does not die outright, his entrails are 
stuffed back in with bunches of straw ; then he is whipped 
to his feet, perhaps to have his life mercifully shortened 
by another mad plunge from the bull, or to go until he 
drops dead. 

All this time a band of music is playing, while the en- 
thusiasm of the spectators has reached its highest pitch of 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 29 

excitement, while several men and horses have been dis- 
emboweled before the bull has been artistically speared to 
death, by those who must greatly feel the importance of 
so proud a position. Gaily caparisoned horses dash in, 
and quicker than one can think they drag the dead bull 
out of sight, then the horses ; meanwhile the men have been 
disposed of, all of which are of no account whatever, as 
there are yet left plenty of bulls, horses and men to go 
through with this barbarous performance for the amuse- 
ment of the people. It is asserted that while the bull 
fights were discontinued in some parts of Mexico, that the 
priests became dissatisfied, because when these bull fights 
occur it makes an increase in the treasuries of the 
churches, and the claim is made that the churches cannot 
be supported without the bull fights. Such a state of 
things being true, what would be the objection to wor- 
shiping in "nature's temple," close up their churches and 
go back to the unassuming, loving teachings of the Master 
who abhorred all forms of cruelty, which is wickedness, 
and He called it 1 sin. 

As the duke and other wandering sons of Spain were 
thousands of miles away from the lapping waves which 
beat along their native coast, the Duke, on that date, gave 
in honor of the young monarch a banquet at the Auditor- 
ium. Here is the menu. As you read it, now tell us, 
"honest truth," are you not hungry? 

Little neck clams. Pocahontas broth. 

Soft-shelled crabs, Jefferson. 

Cucumber salad. Philadelphia chicken, William Penn. 

Boiled mushrooms, Sam Ward. 

Saratoga chips. 

Minnehaha punch. Jacksnipe, Ticonderoga. 

Sweet potatoes, Henry Clay. 

Jellied chicken liver. Cauliflower salad, Hiawatha. 

Apple dumpling, Martha Washington. 

While the banquet was in progress American airs were 
played. As it neared the end the duchess and daughter 
appeared on one of the balconies and the feasters ap- 
plauded them heartily, while many gallantly left their 
tables to pay them their respects. At the table of the 
host, on his right sat President Palmer, of Michigan; 
Camille Krauntz and Marquis De Barboles, French com- 
missioners. At his left sat Gen. M. Dupuy De Lome, of 
Spain, and Anton Von Palitscihekpalmforst, of Austria. 



30 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

Before these honored gentlemen rose a bank of red roses, 
lilies and bluebells, typical of the colors of the American 
flag. Scattered about were numerous banks of yellow and 
red tulips, typifying the Spanish colors. This was the 
after-dinner speech of the duke: 

"I salute the representatives of all the nations and the 
eminent persons who honor us to-night with their pres- 
ence. You have come to celebrate with us a memorable 
day in Spain, the birthday of a king who symbolizes the 
glories that our nation reached under the monarchy which 
represents the liberties that the Spanish people have ob- 
tained in the present by their energy, who also represent 
the hope of a future peace and prosperity. Alphonso XII. 
died when Spain had just completed her political recon- 
struction, and was concentrating anew her efforts in the 
interior on the development of her resources. This work 
demands time and perseverance, and can only be accom- 
plished under a regime which will allow the exercise of 
all modern liberties, while maintaining the respect of the 
law. The sincerity with which Her Majesty, the Queen 
Regent, fulfills her constitutional duties, her love for 
Spain, and her example in all virtues, both public and pri- 
vate, will undoubtedly make of the young king who to-day 
completes his seventh birthday a king worthy of the high 
mission entrusted to him by Providence. 

"The many marks of sympathy which Spain is receiving 
from all parts at this celebration of the four hundredth 
anniversary of the great discoverer shows plainly the ad- 
miration which my country inspires in all the nations of 
the Old World, as well as of the new. Spain greets all 
kindly, wishing them all prosperity, but at this time I must 
make a special distinction in favor of this hospitable na- 
tion and the charming people I have met. I now propose 
our first toast to Mr. Cleveland, President of the 
Republic." 

Wild cheers greeted the toast which caused the crystal 
pendants festooned about the electric lights to jingle 
musically and throw varieties of splendid colors to every 
tone of the inspiring music from the distant band. 

Gen. M. Dupuy De Lome next proposed the toast of 
"Prosperity to Chicago and the World's Fair," particu- 
larly to the "White City" of the Exposition, which, he said, 
"was an object lesson of the enterprise, labor and energy of 
the world." 

Mr. Walker Fearne responded to the toast, saying, 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 31 

"That despite unpropitious weather and elements, the na- 
tions of the earth had found their way to) the Columbian 
Exposition, and enriched it with their treasures." He 
paid high compliments to President Palmer, Gens. Davis 
and Burnam, declaring that so close had the ties been 
drawn between his department and the foreign commis- 
sioners, he had grown to understand and appreciate the 
higher principles and true friendliness of these men to the 
United States and the Fair, adding, "in fact, I have almost 
become a foreigner myself." 

Mr. Arthur Gaton proposed the health of the duke and 
the Commissioner-General of Spain, which was drunk 
with all honors to them. Then Count Campillio proposed 
the health of all foreign commissioners, which was re- 
sponded to in French by Commissioner- General Krauntz. 
The count brought the banquet to a close in a graceful 
toast to the ladies of the duke's party. On this occasion 
the flag of Spain was entwined in the folds of our Nation's 
beautiful flag. This was constantly repeated by all coun- 
tries during the Fair, and we believe and trust it has es- 
tablished a bond of love between all nations and America 
which will last forever. 

Although the duke and family were the honored guests 
of our nation, he felt obligated to spend money in return 
for the kind generosity shown him. It was most incon- 
venient for him to accept the invitation to America in the 
Columbian year, having some time before made financial 
investments which, on coming to the United States, he 
placed for careful attention in the hands of a friend, whom 
Commissioner-General M. Dupuy De Lome said, played 
him false. Toward the last of the Fair a cablegram an- 
nounced to him that his castle was in the hands of and 
occupied by scheming, ignorant creditors, wholly incom- 
petent to judge or care for his palace or the contents, 
which were valuable and historic. In imminent danger 
were these relics which had been handed down and pre- 
served for generations, dating from Columbus' time. His 
charts, maps, swords, trophies from the New World, etc. 
So it was sad and heavy-hearted that the duke and his 
family returned to the home of his ancestors to find his 
palace, art gallery, and his dearly prized stock farm all in 
danger of being sold at a sacrifice to satisfy creditors. It 
was sad to contemplate that the descendant of Columbus, 
in the year of the Columbian festivities, should become 
bankrupt. 



32 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

President Palmer did something more than regret. 
Said he, "Shall we see the descendant of the discoverer of 
America, in this the Columbian year, deposed of his for- 
tune?" 

"No," said Gen. Davis. 

A meeting was immediately called, which was composed 
of prominent citizens of Chicago, New York and other 
cities. They decided to raise a large fund by popular sub- 
scription, which should be invested in United States 
bonds for the benefit of the duke and his children after 
him. An appeal was toi have been sent throughout the 
United States, South America and the West Indies, ask- 
ing it as a grateful tribute to the memory of the great 
discoverer. 

President Palmer acted as chairman of the finance com- 
mittee to receive and acknowledge all contributions in 
conjunction with the committee and the Spanish commis- 
sioners. How much of this, if any, was accomplished we 
are unable to state. Gen. De Lome said the duke was 
worth only half a million to begin with, which is consid- 
ered a small fortune in America. A few years ago he 
lost several pensions, which had helped to swell his in- 
come. I doubt not I voice the sentiments of this nation 
in saying we are sorry indeed that at any time the descend- 
ant of the discoverer of this great land should be finan- 
cially embarrassed. 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 33 



THE CARAVELS OF SPAIN. 

On the afternoon on which the caravels were expected 
thousands of spectators were gathered on the peristyle 
along the lake front, on piazzas, roofs, in windows or any 
convenient place by which they might catch the first 
sight of the "Santa Maria," the "Nina" and "Pinta," these 
being the exact reproductions of those ships in which 
Columbus first sailed to the West. 

For hours we patiently looked over the stretch of water. 
An enthusiastic, neat-appearing old dame, dressed in a 
Garibaldi waist, with full gathered skirt, which the breeze 
inflated until it was the size of a small balloon, (she 
weighed over two hundred pounds, yet she had daringly 
elevated herself on one of the World's Fair camp chairs), 
her inflated skirts engulfing the heads of spectators, dis- 
closing to view her low-laced heelless shoes. She chewed 
gum, keeping time to the music of a band near by. Sud- 
denly she cried out. "There they be a-comin'." A broad 
smile came over her face; her black sun hat had become 
suspended on her left ear, finally dropping to her shoulder. 
In an excited, good-natured manner she grasped the 
scribe's arm, saying: "They be a-comin', and I've seen 'em 
fust. Jist hist yerself onto my cheer and be second best 
in seein' 'em." 

She climbed down in a manner hard to describe, while 
the scribe, feeling that she was doing it almost at the risk 
of her neck, cordially accepted the invitation, and expects, 
even hopes, that she contributed toward amusing the tired 
crowd in her frantic efforts to be "second best in seein' 
'em." 

Soon the most notable procession that had ever invaded 
those waters came in full view, passing under the peris- 
tyle, accompanied by electric launches, boats of hide, 
bark, etc., rowed by Esquimaux, Indians, Samoans and 
South Sea Islanders, who had rowed into the broad waters 
of the lake to welcome the caravels which had been es- 
corted by the "Whaleback" and sloops of many kinds. 

Capt. Concas doubtless felt imbued with the spirit of 
Columbus as the caravels were welcomed with the boom- 
ing of cannon, while from steamers and "Machinery Hall" 
screeched hundreds of whistles, accompanied by chimes 



34 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

from every bell in the "White City," all this not drowning 
the shouts coming from thousands of throats. 

As the curious fleets passed "Liberty," she gave them a 
stately, silent welcome. The first to welcome Capt. Con- 
cas and his crew, as they landed, were Indians in full war 
paint and feathers from Buffalo Bill's wild west show. 
Majestically they waved their arms in welcome. The 
Spaniards gazed in admiration, and courteously returned 
the salute. 

On the Grand Plaza were the United States troops, un- 
der the command of Col. Rice, also the United States 
marines. Mounted on fine horses were British troops 
from TatersalFs, gorgeous in their red coats trimmed with 
gold, wearing shining silver armor and helmets; also the 
Spanish marines, those of Italy, and other countries. 

There was a large representation of the queer people 
from "Midway;" most noticeable of all were the South Sea 
Islanders, naked to their waists, wearing a short, fringy 
skirt of dried grasses, and a pleasant smile, which helped 
out their costume quite a little. 

Capt. Concas, his officers and the invited guests were 
escorted to a position between the American and Spanish 
marine corps ; on between United States troops, following 
them a grand, imposing procession of officers and soldiery. 
Capt. Concas and his officers lifted their hats repeatedly 
in acknowledgment of the enthusiastic greetings. The 
war-like column swung into a roped-in space, three by five 
hundred feet; the Spaniards were escorted to the platform 
by the welcoming party. President Palmer, arm in arm 
with Senator John Sherman, who was speaker of the day, 
conducted the guests from Spain across to where stood 
Gen. Miles, Mayor Harrison, Frederick Douglas and Offi- 
cials of the Exposition. Two notable personages present 
were Wm. E. Curtis and Hobart C. Chatfield. 

Then occurred the grand, impressive evolutions of the 
soldiers and marines, ending with military salutes and 
waving of flags from masts and other places on and off the 
water. The flag. of Aragon and Castile floated from hun- 
dreds of places, and pennants from every land, and the 
Stars and Stripes, but on this day the place of honor was 
given the Spanish colors. 

The bands played Spanish airs, while enthusiastic 
cheers were given the Spanish visitors and their sovereign. 
Capt. Concas and his men will never forget their welcome 
to "the new world." Fine speeches were made by Presi- 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 35 

dent Palmer j Gen. Davis and Gen. Sherman, who made 
the American speech of the day, and many others, but 
space will be given to Capt Concas, who, after saluting 
the officials, said: 

"I have the honor of bringing to you three ships, pat- 
terned exactly like the fleet in which Columbus set sail 
on the 3rd of August, 1492. This fleet was built in the 
same land; his crew was Spanish, ours is of the same 
blood. We came animated with the same spirit as did he. 
As did his ships, so did ours sail from Palos. We left be- 
hind us the old convent La Rabida, and here we are, roy- 
ally welcomed to your great "White City," in sight of what 
seems the same La Rabida which was placed there by the 
special authority of His Majesty, the King of Spain. She 
wished to properly celebrate the event. She could not 
send the same men, or the same ships, but has sent copies 
of them. The flag of Aragon and Castile embodies all the 
legends and history of Spain, and were she and Europe to 
be wiped away from the face of the world, yet would that 
flag and its unforgotten legends be the first page of Ameri- 
can history. These traditions will never die, for America 
will live forever. These caravels are sacred to the mem- 
ory of those who gave to white men America. We have 
brought them in the name of Spain to serve as a founda- 
tion stone to that monument of progress which is found 
in this magnificent West. 

"I thank you, Mr. President, for your boundless courtesy 
and hospitality. I thank you, Senator Sherman. I wish 
to specially thank Mr. Herbert, and particularly do I wish 
to thank Mr. Curtis ; but for him it is possible these cara- 
vels would have never been built I want to thank Lieut. 
Little, whose skill and ability have so much aided in 
building them. Finally, ladies and gentlemen, I thank 
you all for your beautiful reception." 

The caravels were anchored near La Rabida throughout 
the Fair, and were striking object lessons. At that time 
the spirit of Columbus was nearly four hundred and three 
years old. There they were, anchored thousands of miles 
from the waters traversed by Columbus, set in the midst 
of marvelous results of industry. All this we owe to Co- 
lumbus for believing, as did Galileo, that the earth was 
round, and that there was no falling-off place, neither did 
he believe what had been taught for two hundred historic 
years, that the pillars of Hercules marked the end of the 
earth, and that beyond them there was nothing but a 



36 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

boundless waste of water. More than this, Columbus be- 
lieved in God and His providence, or he would not 
dared to have gone down into the sea with a fleet like 
that shown at the Fair, for these vessels would not inspire 
anyone of to-day to take a sea voyage in them. 

The furniture and fixtures of the "Santa Maria" were 
copied from the old one occupied by Columbus. The floor 
of this vessel was wide in the front and tapered to the 
rear. In the center was a hewed oaken table of primitive 
pattern, fastened by irons to the floor ; upon it lay the first 
chart ever made of the American continent. There was 
an old-fashioned hour-glass for measuring time, an astro- 
lobe for observing the stars, and studying their altitudes ; 
and for taking depths of water, a jackstaff ; an inkstand, 
goose feathers for a pen ; a rudely carved candlestick about 
one foot high; all these were patterned from the fifteenth 
century. There was a duplicate of the flag with which 
Columbus took possession of San Salvador. It was about 
one foot square, of red silk plush, its edges fringed with 
gold and embroidered on each side with the same material. 
On one side appeared the Madonna and Infant Jesus, on 
the other the crucifixion. 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 37 



THE CONVENT OF LA RABIDfi. 

This old fashioned structure with its quaint walls and 
roofs of the middle ages, formed a striking contrast to the 
magnificent architecture of the Fair. It .gave, however, a 
correct idea of the religious architecture of old Spain in 
the time of Columbus, when discouraged he sought and 
obtained shelter, encouragement, and blessings from the 
Franciscan priest, Father De Marchena, who used his in- 
fluence in behalf of the explorer, with Queen Isabella. 

The convent was situated in a comparatively isolated 
spot near the lake. The lagoon near by was built up with 
rocks to represent, as near as possible, the proper sur- 
roundings of the original convent. Inside the convent 
were found relics from every quarter of the globe, which 
were the most valuable of the Exposition. 

When we visited it in April, just before the opening of 
the Fair, it did not take a great stretch of imagination to 
suppose ourselves in Spain, and in the original convent. 
Inside the altar, leaning against the wall, was a worn 
wooden cross, apparently hundreds of years old; then 
unframed, faded old paintings of Mary and the Babe, and 
saints. The walls of the convent were lined with illustra- 
tions of the life of Columbus. The paintings of him, Ferdi- 
nand, and Isabella were rare ones of great age, and court 
relics innumerable were everywhere. 

As we stood, or walked about in this mysterious quiet, 
we could not dispose of the fancy ,while fronting the altar, 
that again we saw Columbus with his young son kneel for 
the parting blessing. We passed around the narrow old 
corridor which surrounded a court in which were stately 
palms and beds of flowers; next passing upstairs to the 
second corridor. Here upon its walls were old maps and 
charts drawn by Columbus, besides drawings and paint- 
ings of his departure from Spain, and his arrival at San 
Salvador. So crude were these depictions that they ap- 
peared to have been done by savages. 

In modern paintings were given his return, imprison- 
ment, and that which comes last to all of us, the pathetic 
death-bed scene. 

As we visited the many cells we seemed to be in the 
original cloisters; some were perfectly empty, while others 
had many interesting relics in them. In one room was a 



38 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

pile of stones and tile, taken from the building and roof 
of old La Babida, and the small iron bell, which so many 
centuries ago had called the faithful to vespers. 

In another room, we found a bit of the ashes of Colum- 
bus, resting in a glass receptacle, which resembled a 
watch charm. This bit of his ashes was preserved when 
his bones were removed into a metal box, the fac-simile 
of which was there shown. 

There was an old boat, in which it was claimed Colum- 
bus rode to the "Pinta" on his departure from Spain; it 
was hewed from hardwood and certainly looked old. 

On this, our first visit, the circumstances were different 
from those surrounding it after the Fair opened, when it 
seemed to us, it was made sacrilegious by counters 
crowded into this place loaded with articles for sale, all 
of which were not entirely historic of Columbus' boyhood 
on up to manhood. The earnest efforts of the saleswomen 
to dispose of them all, combined to take aw T ay this feeling 
of the historic sacredness connected with the place, so on 
our first visit, you cannot wonder w T e were impressed, aye, 
moved to tears of reverential awe, as for the time we 
seemed to live in the dim ages and to love and honor him 
as though he were present. 

The glass ball, in which rested the bit of his honored 
ashes, was watched day and night, while many were the 
attempts made to carry it away. 

We believe predominant in the nature of Columbus was 
his love of discovery, and if through it he expected to 
possess untold wealth or earnestly wished for it, he was 
only human. The facts are with us that he did make a 
great discovery, ant! no one is more worthy or is more en- 
titled to receive the honor. 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 39 



THE MAHARAJAH. 

Soon after his arrival from India, he and other digni- 
taries of his country were escorted by Director-General 
Davis, President Palmer, and other officials to the 
pavilion, south of "Electricity Building," where, with due 
honors, they were seated, while he reviewed the United 
States troops. 

The Maharajah and his officers, as black as the "ace of 
spades," were decked in all their finery. He wore a scant 
yellow skirt, a flowing white satin coat, and an enormous 
white turban of sheer-stuff taking many yards for the con- 
struction of so great a thing; the others wore yellow tur- 
bans, white skirts, and flowing red coats. All carried the 
ever-present fan. 

As His Majesty gazed on thousands of United States 
troops, he seemed overcome by their greatness, and bril- 
liant appearance. His servant fanned him vigorously, 
seeming to realize it. He thought Chicago a wonderful 
city. Unlike many foreigners, he was not astonished at 
distances, as his country is of magnificent largeness. He 
was a generous buyer, and possessed fine taste as to 
quality. He purchased many beautiful dolls in the 
"Illinois Building," rare toys of every description for his 
many children, rich and beautiful articles of wearing 
apparel, and costly knicknacks of various sorts for his 
numerous wives. 

One day when on "Midway," with an American friend, 
he was informed that they "would paint it red." "Where's 
our vermilion?" said he. "Oh," said his friend, "we'll 
tone it in various shades of rich red before evening with no 
need of vermilion." 

When evening arrived, he had become an American 
artist in "painting," leaving him poorer in pocket, but 
richer in experience. 

He said "Midway" was "good enough" for him, and 
society "need not fall over itself taking up his valuable 
time from recreations on 'Midway,' as their social func- 
tions in polite society," he said, "were not in it," so to 
speak, beside "Midway." 



40 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 



NEW AND OLD MEXICO. 

San Juan is the leading county in New Mexico. Its 
first settlers located there in 1876, but not until four years 
later did emigration really begin, and late as 1884 stock 
raising was the principal occupation, the low bottom lands 
being devoted to farming. 

In 1886, by legislative act, San Juan county was 
created. Since that time the growth in that section has 
been steady and healthful. There are about 80,000,000 
.acres of land in New Mexico, and a large amount is under 
cultivation by irrigation. An inexhaustible water supply 
runs through the farms, and to the small or large home 
seeker, there are rare inducements for a much brighter 
future. 

Lands with irrigation conveniences, partially improved, 
sell for twenty-five dollars per acre, while highly de- 
veloped farms with small orchards command high figures. 
Their owners are justified in feeling that they would have 
to go a long way to better themselves when seven acres 
of land near Olio, and at other points, give returns of 
$2,500 per annum. # 

Much government land is yet open to settlement under 
the United States homestead and desert acts. Upon the 
unirrigated table-lands, through some parts of it, are 
ditches leading from the rivers, and when capital sees the 
tide of immigration swelling the other necessary canals 
will be built. But the land ready for cultivation and oc- 
cupation is so cheap, that few settlers, except those of 
little means, would undergo the delay incident to working 
out new lands. In fine, cheap lands, good soil, and sure 
crops, are offered to the general farmer, and to the horti- 
culturist quick returns, big prices, and unlimited markets; 
to the stock grower, cheap forage and ample free pastures, 
and to everyone is promised health and sunshine in her 
rare climate, with its bracing atmosphere, pleasant nights 
in summer, and clear dry days in winter. 

In San Juan county are millions of acres of pasture 
lands, exclusive of the Navajo reservation. This range of 
government land is free to the stock growers who fatten 
their cattle and sheep on the vast fields of alfalfa in 
neighboring valleys. Their first markets are the mining 
towns of Colorado. 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 41 

Draft and road horses are another source of great profit. 
This county is reached by rail, from Denver, over the Kio 
Orande Railroad, to Durango, Col., thence by the daily 
stage down the Animas Valley. This county is traversed 
by three large rivers which head in the snow-capped moun- 
tains of southwestern Colorado, furnishing a never failing- 
water supply for irrigation which is so general in New 
Mexico. These rivers are the San Juan, about two hun- 
dred and seventy-five feet wide, the Animas, one hundred 
and fifty feet wide, and the La Plata, thirty feet wide, with 
a respective fall of eleven, twenty-one, and forty feet to 
the mile. 

Irrigated districts augment in production as they are 
worked, the sediment left by the stream enriching them. 
The first fruit trees planted in this county was about ten 
years ago; to-day her reputation for fruit growing is 
known over Colorado, and other states to which it is 
shipped. So remunerative is this industry that in 1891 
23,000 trees were planted in this county alone; the next 
year nearly 50,000 were added. It is not uncommon for 
trees there to bear fruit the next year after being planted, 
often gathering from tiiem pears or other fruit, weighing 
nearly a pound apiece. Vegetables of every variety 
flourish there, while flowers, there, as in Old Mexico, are 
sold so cheap that all may gratify their tastes in buying 
large quantities for a few dimes. 

Undoubtedly the greatest opportunity of the agricul- 
turist would be in growing alfalfa hay. Bee culture also 
is a fine source of income, and nearly every household has 
colonies of them, as wild bee-weed, and other flora, furnish 
an inexhaustible pasture for them. Honey in the comb 
sells for from ten to twelve cents per pound. Small 
colonies average from fifty to sixty pounds in the short 
season of their honey-making. Coal, lime, tile-clay, red 
and white sandstone, for building purposes, are found in 
New Mexico in large quantities. Many fire-clay beds have 
been discovered, which await someone to work them. Two 
newspapers are published in this county, "The San Juan 
Index," in Aztec, the county seat, and the "San Juan 
Times," at Farmington. 

New and Old Mexico made great displays in every de- 
partment at the Fair, and 'twas Michigan's pride and 
pleasure to leave the latch-string always out for the genial 
managers of the exhibit from Old Mexico, with whom 
^twas her good fortune to be great friends, Senors Garibi, 



42 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR 

Serrano, and over thirty other Mexican officials. There 
was formed for each other a bond of friendship and deep 
respect which will ever be remembered. 

Old and New Mexico are so akin to each other that it 
seems proper to speak of them as one. It is stated on good 
authority, that opportunities for making money in Old 
Mexico are as good as in New Mexico; a residence in either 
for a few years only is sure to bring prosperity. 

In the "Art Palace" was found a little of their art, which 
was of high order. There was no choice between the works 
of the sculptors, Jesus Contreras and Gabriell Geurra, who 
sculpture'd the busts of President Diaz. In oil, by Cleof as 
Almanza, the tree under which Cortez, "the conqueror" 
wept. Their religious pictures were splendid. "Ruth," by 
Bribeski, "Christian Charity" and "The Dream of the 
Martyr," by Ybarraran. How we pitied the dreamer 
when he should awake! 

The building devoted to exhibits from Arizona and New 
Mexico stood nearly opposite that of Florida. Fronting 
it were specimens of Arizona's agatized wood, then cacti, 
which sometimes grows to an enormous height. In this 
department we found blankets made by the Navajos, and 
paintings depicting the scenery and the wild gypsy life 
of the hunters and trappers. 

An old painting of Col. Kit Carson, and of the late Gen. 
Crook, of the United States army, buckskin jackets, metal 
belts, cat-o'-nine tails, thus we passed through her historic 
wilds into New Mexico to look at crudely carved stones 
representing the gods of the Pueblo Indians, and other 
builders of stone terraced cities. The relics of these cliff 
dwellers ante-dated the landing of Columbus. They were 
found in ruins which had been suddenly deserted by their 
tribes, leaving everything behind, which was long before 
the invasion of the Spaniards, who, on finding them, de- 
stroyed many of their emblems of idolatry. 

It was stated of these unique specimens, that none of 
them were to be found in any museum, or institution of 
America, New Mexico, or Europe. These and other curios 
were loaned by Gov. Bradford Prince, of Santa Fe. 

On a buffalo skin was a mythical representation entitled 
"Our Lady." She wore a crown tipped with stars. A halo 
of yellow light gleamed about her head. She was seated 
on great horns, extending from a man's head, he flying 
through the air with her. 

We left musty, barbarous relics of ages ago to look upon 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 43 

the refined art of civilization, decorated crystal and china, 
marvelous paintings; and tapestry work of a life-sized lion, 
stretched under a palm, every stitch so true and neat as to 
receive the commendation of being perfect. This work 
was done by Miss Josephita Desmaraas, of Las Vegas. 

A hut in the mountains, surrounded by trees and rocks, 
was so impressive in its reality that it caused us to feel 
that we were among cliffs, and shaded by trees in this 
line country. 

A painting of Christ, six hundred years old, was brought 
to Mexico by a German over two hundred and fifty years 
ago. It was done in an art which has been lost for cen- 
turies. The painting, which was of rich colors, seemed 
to have been painted on the back of glass, then burned in. 
The picture was in a perfect state of preservation. Pieces 
of broken glass of this same art have been found in the 
ruins of Pompeii. 

Old Mexico day was grandly celebrated at "Music Hall." 
"Bess," and the rest of the ladies will ever remember with 
what perfect grace "the nice little man" escorted and 
cared for them, presenting them to the gallant Mexicans, 
handing out ices, and doing dozens of kindly acts besides. 
It was regretted that more foreign ladies were not at the 
Fair to grace with their witchery all such occasions. 

When seated in the theater, listening to the grand con- 
cert, there were distributed souvenir books illustrated 
with scenery, architecture of their country, and portraits 
of the commissioners. In small bags, made of Mexican 
colors, was the famous raw kernel coffee. Lovingly their 
country's colors, red, white and green, was entwined in 
America's, while proudly, Fair Columbia extended her 
white arms protectingly over them, symbolical of what 
may come in the near future, while "Hail, Columbia," was 
magnificently played by the Eighth Mexican cavalry band, 
under the leadership of Capt. Encarnaseon Payen. Then 
followed selections from Donzetti, Caballero, Gounod, and 
others. The soloist, Mrs. Genevra Johnstone, sang several 
selections besides "Ave Marie," by Mascagna, with poetic 
pathos, Mrs. A. H. Burr being the accompanist. The last 
number given was the Mexican National hymn. 

The vast audience rose to its feet with the Mexicans, 
who reverently sang it to the end. 



44 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 



VICTORIA HOUSE. 

Here was the headquarters of the royal British com- 
missioners. At the request of Her Majesty, it was named 
after her, to show her interest in the "World's Fair." It 
represented an old English, half-timbered manor house 
of the sixteenth century, a pleasant home furnished with 
every elegance and convenience which inventiveness has 
contrived for a perfect home in this, the nineteenth cen- 
tury ; time was when 'twas the reverse according to our 
present ideas of domestic comfort. 

In the sixteenth century, earls, lords and barons, with 
large families and more than one hundred and fifty ser- 
vants, were content with a large table to eat upon and a 
few benches for seats, these as furniture of a great apart- 
ment of state. According to the seasons of the year, if 
owning more than one estate they shifted from one to 
another, taking these articles of furniture along; the 
wide, elegant halls, in their homes, like that shown at the 
Fair, were strewn with rushes, often serving their purpose 
years for the servants to sleep on; this accompanied 
with racket, dirt and general discomfort. Such modes 
nowadays would stamp its owner as being worse than 
Bohemian. 

It was a fine country to roam about in, plenty of good 
cheer, revelry, sword crossing, etc., but we fail to conceive 
of domestic comfort in those times of bare boards, stone 
floors and a few articles of rudely made furniture, but out 
of doors they had merry times, which doubtless compen- 
sated, and on coming home, 'tis likely they were not too 
nice as to details, if on the kitchen hearth the big fire 
burned briskly, and if in the larder there was plenty of 
game, wines, ale, and other goodies; but fashion changed 
with the reign of Queen Elizabeth, as we know she was 
fond of dress and display, so from one degree of fashion 
and custom to another there was a cultivated progress 
of elegance which spread abroad a taste for neatness and 
order. 

Her royal trips through her kingdom being frequent, 
they learned to always be ready for Her Majesty, who was 
fond of coming upon them unexpected with hundreds of 
her servants; so it is easy to see how she brought about 
great refinement in castles and even plain abodes. 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 45 

Now we will suppose we stand in the long wide hall of 
the Victoria House; at each side is a staircase, balustraded 
with carved oak, either staircase bringing one to the first 
landing where we faced the imperial grandeur of Queen 
Elizabeth's time. The ceiling was a copy of one in Con- 
way, North Wales, which was built in 1550. It was one 
of the many places honored by her presence; another ceil- 
ing was copied from Haddan Hall, which still exists in 
Derbyshire; at one time it was owned by the Vernons, so 
occurs to us the names of "Dorothy Vernon," and "Sir 
John Manners." It is now owned by the Duke of Rutland, 
the most perfect old English mansion to be found. 

The designs upon the massive Cassone, or oaken chest, 
which stood in the center of the hall and was the very 
ornament for it, was designed from the Italian Rennais- 
sance. This magnificent coffer was a reproduction of an 
old Florentine pattern which is in the royal palace at 
Naples. Portrayed on the gilded front panel was the de- 
parture of Columbus from Spain, which was accomplished 
by the royal British architect, F. Hamilton Jackson. On 
an armchair he had vigorously sculptured the discovery 
of America, and an extract from Robertson, the historian: 
"On October 11, 1492, after a long and adventurous voy- 
age of nearly two months, Columbus was standing on the 
forecastle of his ship, the 'Pinta,' which always kept 
ahead of the others. He observed a light in the distance 
and two hours later the cry was heard from the crew of 
the 'Pinta,' 'Land.' 

"Soon as the sun rose all the boats were manned and 
armed. Columbus was the first European to set foot on 
the New World which he had discovered." 

A pedestaled knight guarded each stairway, while 
grandfather's clock chimed in the corner; the baronial- 
looking drawing room, with high, heavy, oak panelings, 
archways hung with heavy rich curtains, a terra cotta 
fireplace, paintings hundreds of years old, beside the 
"Garden Party," which represented the one given by the 
queen on her thirtieth birthday, made a fine room. 
Especially 'twas so, when graced by the presence of Sir 
Henry Wood, Sir Richard Webster, and wives, who enter- 
tained on a grand scale, lavish refreshments always being 
served in the summer garden, while guests moved about 
this beautiful home, happy and at ease. 

No officials succeeded better in pleasing socially than 
did these. Scattered about were copies of existing fur- 



46 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

niture which once belonged to the Medici family, but 
now in the Pitti palace at Florence. The tables were 
copies of some in the museum at Exeter, England, a city 
of which 'tis said, is worthy of making a holiday in. 

From the period of William and Mary was fashioned a 
cabinet of ebony, ivory, box and mother of pearl; wrought 
on pearwood were flowers, foliage, and birds in elegant 
profusion. A chair, once beautiful and of regal dignity, 
stood in tattered velvet coverings, and tarnished studs 
rested upon worn silken braid; this was a copy of the 
"Knole" chair in which King Charles sat during his trial 
at Westminster Hall. It was near Knole House, the 
gallant, witty and accomplished Phillip Sidney lived. 

The settees were wrought after the manner of Jean 
Goujin, a French master of the sixteenth century. No 
one had time to sit in the old "cackle" or "gossip" chair, 
except those who held cards of admission; every day from 
two until five the public was admitted, then hustled out 
like so many sheep who said as they went : "Those guards 
did not act as though they wanted us to stay. Well, who 
wanted to? There was nothing to see; the rugs were 
rolled back and the rooms roped in." 

These expressions were common, and heard from many 
every day of the Fair. The offensive and officious Eng- 
lish-born guard said he had lived in America ever since 
he could remember. As an example of how different he 
was from Americans, when asked how many volumes were 
represented in the library, and this question was asked by 
a lady, too, he rudely replied: "I do not know; do not 
wish to; have never counted them; never shall; neither 
will I trouble myself to count them for you." He cer- 
tainly did not follow out in true politeness that which is 
inborn in every American; even an uneducated ditch- 
digger would have shown more chivalry, so we met one 
American citizen, if he was one, that we were heartily 
ashamed of, and promptly disowned. He was placed 
there by the tradesmen of London, who furnished this 
house, and they should blush with shame for the blame 
which was heaped upon the shoulders of her Majesty the 
Queen, the general public taking it for granted that he 
was placed there by her authority. And because of his 
offensive insolence, which authority it must be was 
granted him by the tradesmen, it is due that the public be 
\nformed of the true facts, for there were hundreds who 
honestly supposed he was there by authority of the queen ; 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 47 

and many were the expressions made which otherwise 
would not have been. 

Mrs. Tom Willett, a member of the "Columbian Club/' 
of Flint, Michigan, was assigned the duty of giving a paper 
on the " Victoria House. " She gave it in the form of poetry, 
theming after the style of "The Raven." Mrs. Willett's 
father was English born, and to-day is English to the 
backbone, and on reading her poem, which described the 
feelings of the general public, he said to her: 

"I am ashamed that my child, coming of good English 
stock, would even express the truth of such a matter." 

It caused no unkind feelings, only he was rather par- 
ticular about talking familiarly with her for a day or so, 
but on being informed he should be proud of a child who 
could write anything as fine as this, he repented. 

"On a sunny day and cheery 

As I wandered weak and weary, 

O'er the pave of the White City 

On Lake Michigan's fair shore, 

While I walked and gazed and pondered, 

On the sights through which I'd wandered, 

Wondered if I'd passed some portal, 

Missed some great important door, 

I bethought me of Great Britain, 

And her building on the shore; 

Only this and nothing more. 

Sure, I thought, of all the nations, 
To exhibit great creations, 
And astonish all the people 
Of our great and glorious land; 
Queen Victoria, with her islands, 
With her lowlands and her highlands, 
Will outstrip all other countries ; 
Outdo all I've seen before. 
I will see Victoria's building, 
I must see this one thing more, 
Only this, and nothing more. 

Then, with footsteps slow and lagging, 
Dizzy head and spirits flagging, 
I sought out, by guard diverted, 
England's great Chicago home. 



48 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

Fancy pictured gorgeous splendor, 
England's trophies and her plunder, 
Gleaned from all the lands around her, 
Ancient things outvying Kome; 
Here, I said, Fll rest a moment, 
Best a while and then go home. 
Overawed, I passed the portal, 
And if ever weary mortal 
In one instant had her feelings, 
Fancies change as ne'er before; 
Lost her bright anticipation, 
In stern, cruel realization, 
And with some precipitation, 
Sought the freedom of a door. 
It was I, just murmuring faintly: 
This is English, nothing more; 
Only this, and nothing more. 

One or two rooms, darkly furnished, 

Heavy hangings, brasses burnished, 

And one great and noble picture, 

Which the English did adore; 

Great, if length and breadth would make it 

Noble, so the English spake it; 

Peasantry were in the background, 

All the nobles to the fore. 

The Queen's jubilee, the subject, 

Pomp, servility galore; 

Only this, and nothing more. 

Columbian guards were at a discount, 

English guards their places took. 

One who wished to ask a question 

Was discouraged with a look. 

We were marched, like galley prisoners, 

'Twixt the ropes' inviting aisle; 

'Twas our only consolation 

That it didn't last a mile. 

'Is this all?' I asked in whisper. 

'Do they show us nothing more?' 

Echo answered, 'Nothing more.' " 

Note. — England and the Dominion of Canada made a 
large showing in every department of the Fair. 






SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 4:9 



TATERSALL'S BRITISH MILITARY TOURNAMENT. 

At the stock pavilion, for many weeks every day, thi& 
startling exhibition was given, being realistic enough to 
satisfy the most bloodthirsty. All were young English 
soldiers, who had served their time, being about thirty 
and forty years of age, wearing numerous medals of honoiv 
which told a silent story of long, weary marches and 
bloody campaigns. These. were heroes of Egyptian and 
other battle grounds. 

If one had an idea that a military tournament was 
"tame" or "slow," none said so after witnessing one of their 
battles. As the men filed by in the grand march, we 
thought of America's close kinship, how theirs and our 
forefathers had once been a part and parcel of the British. 
Like true, loyal Americans, we can afford to honor the 
stuff these famous soldiers of England are made of, who 
never know when they are beaten, but keep on fighting. 
We know they can fight and fight well. Let us think how 
they have bravely faced the howling natives in the hot 
sands of the Soudan, or upon the burning plains of South 
Africa and India, then ask ourselves the question, could 
there be greater bravery manifested on the part of any 
soldier than that ? 

These soldiers were retired reserves, drawing pensions, 
subject to active service in any emergency that might 
arise. In the early part of the summer occurred the death 
of Adjt.-Capt. Crocker, bringing profound sorrow to the 
entire brigade and officers, who for a time wore a band of 
crape about their sleeves, a mute tribute to his memory. 

Now, in fancy, we are comfortably seated to witness the 
grand march. There is a bugle sound and Col. Vibert 
rides into the center, while around him is grouped the 
royal artillery; next comes his staff officers and orderly, 
forming a half-circle about him. In the distance red 
curtains part and two stalwart six-footers, clad in the 
magnificent uniforms of the First Life Guards, take their 
positions at the extreme north, remaining immovable as 
statues during the grand review. Close at their heels 
comes little Oliver Small, the youngest drummer in the 
world. He was smuggled into the army when only nine 
years old, which made the great little drummer a veteran, 
having seen five years' service. He wore a service ribbon. 



50 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

showing that he participated in the Burmese eampaign. 
He is the offspring of an old, non-commissioned soldier. 

Here comes the Guard's band, playing stirring strains of 
martial music. Arriving at the center they face the east 
and halt; another bugle blast and the royal horse artillery 
appears, turning to the right, followed by the gallant First 
Life Guards. At the head of this corps rides Lieut. Raw- 
son Turner, of the Fifteenth Hussars^ who was with Col. 
Burnaby when he was speared to death at Abu Klea 
Wells, in that famous dash across the desert from Korti to 
Metameh before Khartoum and Gordon fell. 

As each detachment entered the band played an indi- 
vidual air for each corps, greeting the Fifth Irish Koyal 
Lanciers with "The Harp that Once through Tara's Hall," 
the British Grenadier Guards with "God Save the Queen," 
the Highlanders, "Highland Laddie," the Oonnaught 
Rangers fairly dancing to "St. Patrick's Day in the Morn- 
ing." Next the king's royal riflers, lastly the ambulance 
corps, while the well-groomed and trained horses, as well 
as those who carried riders, were a glitter of gold. 
Steel armors were over the red coats of the riders who were 
.gay with shakos and plumes, the whole tournament being 
made up of Life Guards, Lanciers, Grenadiers, Highland- 
ers, Rangers and Riflemen, mounted and on foot, going 
through evolutions which were marvels of military pre- 
cision, all these keeping perfect time to the inspiring 
music. 

Swinging along came the famous "Black Watch," headed 
by a magnificently proportioned drum-major, then fol- 
lowed spirited contests between soldiers with fixed bay- 
onets. A fine display of lance exercise by the Fifth Royal 
Irish Lanciers, a picturesque display of horsemanship in 
an earnest bout with armed infantrymen with fixed bay- 
onets, their points being heavily protected in view of the 
intensely earnest and exciting experience, which made 
the spectators pretty nervous. As an incentive to make 
it as imposing and earnest as possible, prizes were 
awarded each time by judges who keenly watched both 
sides. 

A wonderful exhibition of skill in driving was given by 
the two best teams of the Royal Horse Artillery, the best 
from Woolwich, the wheels tracked five feet and nine 
inches; the space between posts through which the guns 
were driven, first at a trot and then at a gallop, were six 
feet nine inches, allowing one foot space for the driver 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 51 

of a powerful, six-horse team, to drag through this space 
a lumbering gun so nicely, as to not touch a post on either 
side. It was a grand exhibition of skill, which made one 
fairly stop breathing for the minute. 

Nothing could be prettier, or more graceful, than the 
rush of a dozen dashing cavalrymen, lighting simultane- 
ously over furz-covered gates; then the exhibition of the 
Seventh Lanciers and Hussars in single file, double, fours 
and company front, was superb. In the mounted sword 
contest, which was a battle royal of a give and take," some 
resounding blows were given. 

Very laughable and exciting was the Balaklava melee, 
which was a combat between the First Life Guards and 
the Koyal Horse Artillery, armed with short hickory 
sticks, and with a basket-like arrangement, which, as the 
battle progressed, they slipped over their heads for pro- 
tection, as they advanced upon each other, and tried to 
whack off the colored cockades fastened to each helmet. As 
each face was covered with a wire screen, the baskets 
seemed rather unnecessary. Sometimes one rider was 
belabored by three or four at once, then he would throw 
the basket over his head, perhaps to show the white 
feather, until the rest of his company came to his aid; 
sometimes his horse would get a thump, when it would 
plunge wildly about, seemingly to the great peril of the 
rider, and the hilarious amusement of the audience. 

From beginning to end the spectacle was side-splitting, 
and a complete cure for the blues and indigestion. Next 
a wooden peg, twelve inches in length, by three inches in 
width, was driven into the ground until only six inches 
of it appeared. This was for the tent-pegging exhibition. 
The horsemen started from the farther end of the track, 
advancing at full speed, when, within a dozen feet of the 
peg, he dropped his lance, attempting to impale it as the 
horse swept past, succeeding every time in carrying it 
away. The two expert peggers were Lieut. Turner and 
Sergt. Lee, who skillfully used the sabre for the lance, re- 
ceiving long, wild applause. 

A specimen was given of real Highland dancing; then 
came the tug of war in the exhibition of strength between 
the British Grenadiers and the brawnv Highlanders. As 
the rope stretched tighter and cracked it seemed it might 
be the cords which stood out on the arms of the men as 
they surged and strained each to obtain the mastery. 

The musical ride was entrancing, which consisted of 



52 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

evolutions on horseback, combined with sword exercises. 
As 'twas evening, the scene was enhanced by numerous 
colored lime lights, which played over the glittering hel- 
mets and cuirasses; the proud stepping horses, with their 
splendid trappings, keeping perfect time to the music, 
made a gorgeous scene. The tournament closed with a 
sham attack upon a mimic fort. A clever exhibition was 
given by the 12-year-old trumpeter, whose horse was 
trained to fall at the discharge of a cannon; as the horse 
rolled over the boy nimbly alighted on his feet, dropped 
behind his charger and popped away at the enemy. Soon 
he was seemingly wounded, and fell outside his breast- 
works, but was rescued by an officer, who apparently 
rushed "into the jaws of death," rescued the little fellow 
and carried him away in safety ; still they stormed the fort 
with charge after charge, accompanied by sharp fighting. 
The scene was as real as a genuine battle, for the ambu- 
lance corps passed along and picked up the evidently dead 
and dying. 

This instructive and imposing exhibition was entirely 
free from cheapness. 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 53 



JAPAN. 

Japan was one of the first foreign countries to take 
active interest in the Fair. Her parliament at once ap- 
propriated |630,785. Soon after this the representatives 
of the government arrived in Chicago. The Japanese 
Pavilion in Liberal Arts was a signal attraction; two 
vases of rare workmanship and design received first 
medals. Their merchandise was also on exhibit and for 
sale on Midway. Their large displays in all departments 
ably represented their ability and thrift. 

Their whole exhibit was under the direction of the 
Minister of Agriculture, and, by the governmental author- 
ity of Japan vested in him, he was at liberty to call on any 
or all of its officials for aid in making a proper display. 
The tea houses were situated south of the gardens and on 
the shore of the lagoon. They made and served their tea 
in covered cups, serving with it sweetbreads. 

One day in August twelve ladies were invited and es- 
corted by the nice little man to a tea party on the wooded 
island. The Japanese houses of the fourteenth and six- 
teenth centuries were built of bamboo, both plain and 
plaited, with no using of hammer or nails. They tied 
girders on the open roof with ropes of straw. These they 
rested upon, weaving beneath them rice straw, making 
roofs. When nearly completed the girders were removed. 
Then, agile as cats, they climbed over the roofs, staining 
them in mixed shades of green and red. 

The work was so smooth that it had the appearance of 
slate roofing. The interior of the houses, especially the 
"Hooden palace," were strikingly beautiful, with friezes 
and panels richly colored, the background being repre- 
sented as water. Delicate relief work stood out from it a 
foot or more. This thick with flowers and foliage, by or 
back of which sailed swans. In waxwork of perfection 
were cherry trees and rosebushes, loaded with their fruit 
and flowers. 

In all the houses were antique ebony stands, ancient 
stringed instruments, tiny stoves, not larger than a quart 
measure, in which they burned a thick, white oil and iron- 
like ornamented urns, were used for cooking. 

The Japanese who had charge of their educational de- 
partment, in the Liberal Arts Building, was an English 



54 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

scholar; their school was so American as to surprise us > 
on finding lessons written in English. He said: "A few 
years ago we sent to America for her brightest scholars 
in all branches; to-day we have a school system which is 
quite American, but we think our system of government 
an improvement in some ways on that of the United 
States, which has much red tape. Ours has not; it is 
easier and more quickly understood. Our people are pro- 
gressive, and the number of college graduates is yearly 
increasing; but to expedite matters, and to faster get 
American ideas, and to put them into practice, we sent to 
her for civil engineers, scientists, machinists, etc. • To-day 
we are quite an English-speaking race, thoroughly im- 
bued with an admiration for everything American, and are 
putting the same energy and push, which are her char- 
acteristics, into our affairs. We have miles of telephone 
and telegraphy, electric lights, cars and cable, too, and 
some good railways. We are also trained in military 
tactics by Americans, and in case of war we should buy 
American arms. Our emperor is an energetic worker, 
never idle. He is a liberal subscriber to every magazine 
of any importance in America; he takes a lively interest 
in their cartoons and has an interpreter, so misses noth- 
ing American. The empress is his favorite companion, 
domestic in her tastes and philanthropic ; so keenly sym- 
pathetic in her nature that she systematically visits sev- 
eral poor schools in which she is interested." 

u Why," said he, with a look of disgust, "would you be- 
lieve it, when we first came people said Those are China- 
men?' The Yellow sea divides us from that non-progres- 
sive pig-tailed race." 

The art of Japan is distinctly its own ; they possess fine 
imitative powers. While their impressions regarding ob- 
jects are very different from any other nation, their ideal 
blending of colors is beyond criticism. In the Art Build- 
ing, carved or sculptured out of wood and ivory, were 
mythological Buddhist beings, sets of falcons, a long- 
tailed rooster sitting on a plum tree limb, beneath it hen 
and chickens. These were carved out of wood, then black- 
bronzed. 

An old monkey, holding feathers of an eagle, was carved 
out of cherry wood. Two enormous vases, very beautiful, 
which stood before the west entrance of French sculp- 
ture, were considered two of their main attractions. 
These secured medals. 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 55 

On the second floor were peach-blossom vases, decorated 
with dragons in the waves. Incense boxes, then writing 
desks covered with gold lacquer work; metal screens, 
with open work tops; a copper placque of monkey and in- 
sects; gold cigar boxes lacquered with cherry-wood 
flowers and maple leaves. In a large glass case was 
shown two pairs of portieres, embroidered with storks 
standing 'niid water and cattails. So vivid were the 
feathers it seemed they might spread their wings and take 
flight. 

The other designs were peacocks and peach-blossoms; 
these were called the finest realistic art in that line at the 
fair. Their embroideries on textile fabrics and cut velvet 
were favorites for their delicate perfection. 



56 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 



THE FRENCH BUILDING. 

Looking the length of the west side of this building it 
Jiad a long, narrow, not pleasant appearance; the beauti- 
ful architectural effects were seen only on the east side, 
which fronted Lake Michigan. 

We stepped into a circular court, in the centre of which 
was a fountain ; about it were flowering plants and ferns, 
while here and there were stately palms; arranged about 
were garden seats, some statuary, and urns of potted 
plants. 

The north and south annexes were joined by a wide cir- 
cular piazza, this view making a charming picture. The 
architect of this building, whom it was our pleasure to 
know (we regret being unable to give his name, his card 
being lost) was a pleasant addition to "Hyde Park" 
society, but he returned home immediately after the dedi- 
cation of the building. 

The north annex contained the relics which belonged 
to Washington and Lafayette, and in that particular room 
Americans were intensely interested; it was open from 
two until five p. m., six persons only being allowed in at a 
time, as officials were afraid of dishonest relic-hunters, 
so hundreds sometimes waited in vain to pay tribute to the 
memory of these two great men. 

Those arrogant French guards did not treat people with 
even common civility, they pretended to not understand 
English and refused people admission who held official 
admittance cards. The following is strictly dedicated to 
the ones implicated : 

Proudly they sneered and swelled up to their throats, 
Strode to and fro, those puffed-up billy goats, 
Punched back the crowd with an arrogant air, 
While refined people at them did stare. 

They wished them all to believe 
They were looking at good French stuff, 
So, with tough pugilistic airs, 
They treated them mean and rough. 

They belted them back from the ropes, 

Their fists and heads high in air. 

We sincerely wished these common French folks 

Had stayed away from the Fair. 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 57 

In the center of the Washington and Lafayette room 
stood a large high glass case, beautifully ornamented 
with gold flowers and vines. In the case stood two urns 
composed of gold and silver, about four feet high. There 
were diamond-hilted swords, bejeweled daggers, gold and 
silver loving cups, and other things that had passed be- 
tween these two great men, as gifts. 

On the walls, in narrow frames, were scenes of their 
battles, printed in their time, describing them in the old 
style of spelling, a picture of PaulKevere's ride with poetry 
attached; portraits in oil of Washington and Lafayette 
when young men, and in older ages. The ceiling in this 
room was in reliefs of blue and gold over a cream ground. 

In the south annex were shown photographs of crim- 
inals, first the whole person, next the face, then a part of 
it, then separately the nose, ears and eyes. There were 
two wax figures, one of a man who had been murdered and 
robbed; a curious, morbid crowd gathered about this 
ghastly sight. The other figure represented the criminal. 
All this was intended for scientific information and in- 
struction. 

On a tripod a photographic lens was placed, before the 
murdered man, representing! how every footprint, or other 
significant mark which a murderer generally leaves be- 
hind him is photographed. 

The architectural drawings of the. French were interest- 
ing, showing methods of public construction, and that of 
private houses ; their fire escapes and other accompanying 
conveniences. A diagram showed the old mode of flood- 
ing the streets of Paris and the awful sewers through 
which brave persecuted Jean Valjean, of the story, waded 
all one night, carrying on his shoulders, for brotherly love 
only, a helpless fellowman. 

In another place Les Miserables informs us that it is 
to a Frenchman we owe the first studied-out plans for good 
sewerage. 

The first offense given the French was when the paint- 
ing "Adultery" was refused space in the Art Palace. 
They claimed that finely rendered art should be recognized 
no matter what the subject; for their opinions and bad 
taste they were unmercifully scored by the press. Thor- 
oughly angry they locked the veiled picture in a room of 
the French Building saying it would return to France and 
never be seen by another American. They, and nearly 
every country refused to compete for medals, claiming 
they were not treated fairly. 



58 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

One night, during a heavy rain, their beautiful exhibit 
in "Liberal Arts" was nearly ruined; they closed it claim- 
ing damages from the Exposition company. They then 
closed the French colony house. They certainly did have 
wretched luck. Their exhibits in every department were 
large, while that in "Liberal Arts" was exquisite. There 
was exhibited a fine patterned ebonized or enameled vase 
inlaid with gold valued at f 10,000. 

In the Art Palace was shown sculptured casts from 
the eleventh to the nineteenth century, giving one a rare 
opportunity in a short time, of seeing France in many 
centuries. There was shown a portion of the Cathedral of 
Nantes of the year 1512, the outer walls ornamented with 
garlands of flowers and faces which age had crumbled 
away. 

In the Cathedral of Nantes were represented the tombs 
of Francis II. , Duke of Brittony and of Marguerite De 
Foix. From the Chapel of St. Germain was an ancient 
altar piece. In the Cathedral of Nantes of the sixteenth 
century the door jams were ornamented with flowers 
which slipped into grooves and thus shaped and completed 
each flower or character as the doors opened or shut. 

In sculpture there were fawns, nymphs, and cupids, 
bathing, riding dolphins or seashells, some listening to 
their mysterious music, others playing with panthers, or 
gamboling about. A fine exhibition of strength was 
shown in "A Lion Strangling a Boa;" another, strangling 
a crocodile, and a "Rhinoceros Attacked by Tigers." 
These heavy and impressive pieces were by Auguste Cain, 
of Paris. 

Frightfully realistic was "The Death of Jezebel," by 
Leon Auguste Perry, Paris. There was represented in oil 
the beautiful Christmas story of the "Annunciation," 
which is never dull nor old, by Alfred Pierre Agache. The 
bright light which streamed from Heaven through the 
murky darkness onto the angel, and past her onto the 
awestricken but happy faces of the shepherds over the 
glad tidings of a Savior born, was a refined and elevated 
effort. 

"The Return of the Wedded Couple," by Jean Brunette, 
brought back to many happy memories, and in fancy they 
lived their honeymoons over again, as they watched the 
young bridegroom look with tender pride into the pretty- 
faced young wife. Next artist Jean Francois Raffaelli, 
of Paris. Every picture of his told the story intended 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 59 

with atmospheric effect or the time of day. His arrange- 
ments of lights and shades were portrayals of realistic 
truth from his masterly brush. His Bohemians or "Rag 
Pickers of the Boulevards' 7 and "In the Plains," showed 
him to be an aggressive, fearless impressionist, and again 
and again we returned to admire his pictures of the work- 
ing people, not for the beauty in them, but for depiction 
of truthfulness in their coarse flesh and clothing. Espe- 
cially noticeable was the hamlike skin of their hands and 
arms, which comes from constant contact with sun and 
soil; the crooked fingers and ungainly shoulders which 
are made by lifting and throwing heavy material. These 
he painted so lifelike that it seemed they must ache from 
fatigue. On some of his faces appeared hard coarseness 
and resolute reticence, while in the deep, leathery lines of 
others were shown secluded sorrows, blighted hopes and 
buried affections of long ago. But the "Grandfather" 
was a different effort; in his shirt sleeves he was strolling 
down a lane, smoking his pipe, while by his side toddled 
his grandchild, dragging a small tree limb. In the dis- 
tance was their little cottage; he was reasonably conscious 
of his dignity and decently proud of the little one. 

"In the Plains," an old man was seated in a wagon 
drawn by robust horses. The air was full of fine dust, and 
'twas plain to be seen that the day was hot. There was 
the dusty cracked hub, with a patch of red paint half 
worn, while the paint had nearly disappeared from the 
wheels. It was just right and could not be improved. 



60 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 



GERMANY. 

"'Das Deutsche Haus," Germany's beautiful home, was 
opened on May 23rd by the Imperial Commissioners and 
Privy Councilor Herr Adolph Wermuth; this edifice was 
the costliest of all the foreign buildings, viz., $250,000. 

It covered an area of about 135 by 110 feet. No building- 
was more favorably situated for enjoyment of the match- 
less lake view. It was in general three and a half stories 
high. The basement was of rock-faced limestone; the 
first story of stuccoed brick; the upper stories of exposed 
timber slightly carved. The ornamentations were from the 
medieval period. The front was richly ornamented in high 
colors and gilded frescoes. At the apex of the gable was 
an immense black eagle, below it a group of medieval 
weapons, and knights with drawn swords defending the 
German crown. Extending over the sides were the arms 
of all the states of the Empire, and seeming to cling to the 
walls were ornamentations of leafy vines hanging thick 
with grapes, then twining near and about them were gar- 
lands of flowers. 

Above these, in numerous places, appeared sunbursts 
of dazzling splendor. These ornamentations were by Prof. 
Sellinger; the architect was Johannes Kadke, both of 
Berlin. On the tower which measured 180 feet from the 
ground up, was a dial ; inside of the tower were two bells ; 
one rang the hours, the other the quarter hours. In the bel- 
fry near the chapel were chimes which rang twice a day. 
They were loaned by three persons, the Emperor, Empress, 
and the Crown Prince. This was done to show the interest 
taken by the Emperor in the Columbian Festival. They were 
made by Boshem, of Westphalia ; they were not of common 
bell metal, but of steel, which is the new fashion of bells, 
it having been discovered that steel bells are lighter, 
cheaper, and more musical than brass or other metals. 

These bells were made especially for Grace church in 
the Invaliden Park, in Berlin, at the royal family's ex- 
pense in honor of the Emperor's grandmother, the Em- 
press Augusta. After the Fair they were taken back and 
placed in that edifice. 

Ascending broad stone steps we found the interior more 
interesting and even handsomer than the exterior. Be- 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 61 

tween the first and second story windows was an old Ger- 
man rhyme which, translated, was: 

"Armed and industrious, 

Full of grain and wine, 

Full of power and iron 

Melodious, full of thought. 

I will praise thee, Fatherland mine." 

On the walls at each end were frescoes eight feet high; 
these were masterpieces. One represented a cupbearer 
to the king; beneath it, in German: 

"I will try to bring the work of my ideas, 

And of my hands into the lighting. 

I will try and keep up the battle, and learn from the 
power of other people, in order that henceforth I may do 
better myself." 

The other fresco represented Fame with a trumpet; 
beneath it: "By this trumpet my honor and my glory 
shall be sounded all over the world, from the rising to the 
setting of the sun 'with a full clear sound." 

On the first floor we passed through a wide triple-arched 
entrance coining to a pavement ten feet wide made of 
tiling, manufactured in Germany. The lofty ceilings were 
grained, hand carved, and plaster spaces were ornamented 
with flowering vines and birds. 

The elegant lobby was 30 by 40 feet and surrounded on 
all sides by heavy walnut columns and arches heavy in 
hand carving. We passed through double glass doors, and 
stood in another hall 54 by 48 feet, which was illuminated 
in many colors from the expensive stained glass windows. 

There was a massive display of German literature, in 
elegant bindings, some of them bearing illuminated work 
of high order. Ranged along the walls, in cases, were 
large engravings well worth studying. Passing into the 
chapel the sunlight shone through the rich stained glass 
windows, throwing soft pretty colors over everything. 
There were glass cases filled with rich priestly robes, mag- 
nificent white satin or kid altar cloths, embroidered with 
gold and seed pearls, chalices and censors studded with 
precious stones, jeweled mitres, silk-leaved prayer books, 
bound in white kid and rimmed with gold. 

"The Last Supper," in relief work of carved wood, was 
the best of its kind we had seen. But those which most 



6£ SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

* 

touched the heart and brought into action all of one's 
better nature, were the wood carvings of "The Stations of 
the Cross." 

Most pitiful was the sorrow of Mary, the Mother of 
Christ, Mary Magdalene and John; on his face was also 
expressed a look of hopeful faith, of his firm belief of a new 
life to be lived in the "New Kingdom," but he was unable 
to convey this comforting thought to his grieving com- 
panions, who gazed into the loved eyes from which life had 
nearly fled. Standing near was a grim-faced Roman sol- 
dier. In beautiful art all these were carved out in wood, 
to represent the life, death and resurrection of "The 
Christ." It was a silent but terrible reminder of neglected 
opportunities, which filled us with heartfelt sorrow and 
deep penitence as we thought how little He asked of each 
to make them a child of grace, and deep into our hearts 
sank His gentle plea, 

"Child, give me thine heart." 

The Germans wished Chicago to have their noble struc- 
ture, but were unwilling that it should be used as a 
museum, or a place of public resort, except in a religious 
way. 

Another elegant room was the office of the commis- 
sioners, situated at the right of the front entrance. It 
was an alcoved room of solid carved mahogany. Lovely 
colors streamed over it from stained windows onto the 
hangings of elegant tapestry, and its furnishings, and as a 
whole, made it indescribably beautiful. 

In this grand building was a remarkable picture en- 
titled "Grandfather's Birthday," by Adolph Pichler; it 
showed a little girl placing a wreath of wild flowers about 
the portrait of her grandfather. In this picture was the 
father of the child, thus representing three generations. 

The Bible has furnished this noted artist subjects for 
many of his most celebrated paintings. "Mary and 
Jesus" is one of his highly-prized works; "The Death of 
Jacob," another famous picture which is owned by the 
city of Munich. In a department not connected with this 
building proper was a display by Waldhoff, of Mannheim, 
who has an immense factory employing 1,200 operatives, 
turning out 240,000 pounds of cellulose daily, an exhibit 
which was of great interest to paper manufacturers. 

Germany's art received unusual notice from visitors 
and the press. "The Thorn Puller," sculptured by Prof. 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. (>3 

Eberlin, of Berlin, was a ragged-dressed boy scowling with 
pain, his teeth closed tightly together, pulling from his 
foot a thorn. Another was a little one scowling, half cry- 
ing, yet bestowing a look of confidence at grandma, who 
was pulling the sliver from its foot. 

"Moses Destroying the Tables of the Law" was a grand 
effort, by Prof. E. Herter, of Berlin. A bronze group en- 
titled "A Deathly Embrace" was a man struggling with 
a lion ; grandly depicted was the muscular powers of man 
and beast. 

In oil paintings : "Evening," by Meyer, was a beautiful 
scene; night fast approaching as the peasants came over 
the hills from their labor, and as the twilight deepened 
there were thrown over the scene shades of green-gray and 
dull red; they passed a fenced field where a brown-eyed 
cow was standing in grass spangled with daisies ; by that 
time the harvest moon had arisen, over which drifted fleecy 
clouds, and 'twas "Evening" again, by F. Behrend. In 
this the laborers passed by lowing cows and bleating 
sheep into their low-built huts with thatched green roofs. 
The next morning one of these women stood on the flower- 
gemmed, grassy hillside, watching with pride thirteen fat 
calves, the "Pets of the Peasant's Wife," by Prof. Anton 
Braith, Munich. "The Harvesters' Kepast," by Prof. E. 
Henseler; again were the peasants pictured in restful 
happiness and content on their way with covered baskets 
to the place for the repast. A coarsely dressed old lady, 
a blue handkerchief tied over her head, led a child; two 
girls followed, one carrying the basket of food, the other 
holding in her coarse blue apron some herbs she had 
gathered from the field they had just passed through, in 
which were sheep ; even the shepherd dog was hearty and 
happy. The strong men and sturdy boys came to the 
repast carrying scythes, rakes, and jugs of water. 

"Jack Bemains at Home," by Prof. Josef Wopfner, 
Munich. The disappointed little boy wished to go, but he 
seemed to be quite reasonable about it, and tried to be 
bravely cheerful as he pushed the boat out to sea, and 
thought of the good time his little brother would have 
that day. 'Twas easy to see the half -suppressed sob ex- 
pressed in his face as he thought of the "Good times, but 
I'm not in them." A group of twenty-two cows by Herman 
Baisch was perfection. One became separated from the 
herd and wildly plunged through the brush to the others. 
The position taken was nature itself, while every cord, 



64 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

muscle or projection of bone could not have been given 
truer representation. 

A pure-faced nun was taking a quiet walk; the sun 
shone through the stained glass windows of the abbey, 
throwing upon the pathway and trunks of trees patches of 
colors; the shadings of pink, green and white dotting over 
her quiet dress, then on to the white pathway and in 
shadows upon the grass and tree trunks, was so able an 
effort, with the sunlight streaming through the trees, 
causing their rays to be perfect and uneven just as they 
should be, that it was really to us a marvel. This was by 
Karlsruhe, of Berlin. Fritz Fleischer Weimer's "Old Wife 
and Dogs" w as greatly admired for truthful depiction of 
vulgar reality; an old witch of a woman, leering and smil- 
ing, wore shoes which slipped at the heels, and displayed 
great holes in her stockings. It was a cold wintry day and 
the wind blew her unkempt garments about her neglected 
figure; stray hairs seemed to wave across her face; we 
believed her to be toothless and could picture her in one 
of the most dreadful looking homes smoking a short black 
pipe. Under one arm she carried a young dog, while with 
the other hand she dragged along two, tied by pieces of 
rope, who pulled hard and were unwilling to come at all. 
We thought we heard her give a cackling laugh and say, 
"Come on, ye varmints, ye." 

On a heap of straw lay the mother dog and her puppies ; 
one of them ventured out and returned with a bone, "His 
First Booty," by Miss Biderman. This was a fascinating 
picture, true to life and very cunning. All who saw Miss 
Constance Strecker's cat said, 

"What is the matter with that cat?" 
Quick as a flash they'd answer themselves : 
"Oh, it is sick." Yes, it was "My Little Sick Cat." 
"Boiling Mill," by Prof. Adolph Menzel. In this im- 
pressive picture there were so many of the brawny-armed 
men, bare to their waists, wearing slip-shod, tattered 
shoes that we could not count them; the hot flames of the 
furnace threw a light over their faces, making their skin 
look coarsely red, not unlike leather, so long had they 
been in the baking heat, day after day, for years. One 
may have placed all the fancies they wished in this pic- 
ture; the smelting process was shown; a dump wagon 
moved on its track away; the ponderous turning wheels 
and swift moving shafts whirred, while hoarse orders 
came from the throats of the men. It seemed to us that 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 65 

a lifetime spent in such a place would excuse them from 
heat in the hereafter; it was a scene of din and confusion, 
and seeing this picture was as real as though we were in 
the very place itself. 

"The Martyr's Daughter/ 7 by Prof. Albert Dusseldorf, 
was a scene from the Christian persecution under the 
reign of Diocletian. The pure, sweet-faced daughter was 
surprised in the catacombs by soldiers, while decorating 
with flowers the crypt in which lay her father; the fierce 
soldiers rushed in, brandishing their swords, and she 
bravery faced them showing no fear, and they seemed to 
turn toward the opening to go. The light shining from 
the opening was just strong enough for the effect intended. 

F. Von Preifenger admirably portrayed "Dancing 
Begins." The Gretchens and Hans had formed the set, 
and were waiting for the musicians to tune up ; in another 
room were lunch tables, where were young people sitting 
or standing about. Here a young man smoked his pipe 
looking unutterable love at a modest young miss, who was 
evidently at her first dance. The next morning "Before 
Sunrise," this maiden, carrying a bright copper pail, 
tripped over the grass thickly scattered with daisies ; men 
and women passed her on their way to the fields, and the 
same Hans of last evening lingered to say good morning, 
and regretfully moved on to his work, while she went to 
milk the cows; a faint color in the east grew brighter; 
'twas the reflection of the rising sun. 

"The Poacher's Wife" had fallen in the snow, with face 
hidden in her hands, which rested on a bench ; the forest- 
keeper had brought the dreadful news of her husband's 
death, who lay stretched on a sledge at the gate; his mother 
and his children stood in the door; the lighted lamp shone 
through the small panes of glass, so real as to distract the 
attention from the main subject of this picture of merit. 
We are sorry at being unable to give the names of the 
artists of these last two pictures. 

"Scene Near Naples by Moonlight," by Prof. Oswald, 
was finely rendered. Out of the bluest of skies, the moon 
shone over the whole scene; the water of the bay seemed 
shimmering in its reflection; women with baskets sat on 
the ground by fruit stalls ; off at the left lights shone from 
the homes of the villagers. In the distance was old Mt. 
Vesuvius; everyone who could was out for a stroll and 
enjoying this perfect evening. We do not know where the 
artist of "My Studio," Karl Kaler, lives, but 'twas a mag- 



66 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

nificent effort in coloring, texture of draperies, rugs, and 
portieres ; rare paintings adorned the walls; tastefully ar- 
ranged were statues and bric-a-brac, a rich, magnificent 
room for the Persian cats and kittens shown in the picture 
to scamper about in. 

A woman for a time admired it, then said : 

" 'Not Competing/ Queer name for it anyway." 

Ragged lines ran through it which had been so nicely 
adjusted as not to be noticed only by those who knew that 
the artist, on receiving word from an art committee, where 
his picture had been on exhibition, that it had not received 
first medal, cut and slashed it with his knife, until it was 
thought to have been ruined, but the picture was yet 
valuable, even as it was. 

"Salome, the Daughter of Herodias," by George Pap- 
peritz, Munich. She was a voluptuous and beautiful 
Jewish maiden, with waving black hair, melting dark 
eyes, arms and neck of marble whiteness, yet with a 
pinkish tinge, and fine texture of flesh. She wore a purple 
skirt and sandals, was bare to the waist, but covered with 
gold chains and jeweled ornaments. A gauze drapery 
was carelessly thrown about her. This picture would 
have been attractive, but for history carried out, for she 
held out from her a golden platter, upon it the head of 
John the Baptist. 

"A Duel Behind the Fence," by L. Knaus, Berlin. 'Twas 
a rough and tumble fight between two small boys; five 
others were spectators, and all acted as umpires. From 
the very poise of their figures, and the expression of their 
eyes, 'twas easy to see which they were in sympathy with, 
They pushed each other back, for each wished to figure 
in it, fairly saying : 

"Let's have fair play. This isn't yours or my fight, let 
'em have it out to the finish, if it takes an arm." 

"King Wentsel Raging," by Fritz Rober, Dusseldorf. 
The king on horseback in a frightful rage, accompanied 
by a hangman, rode through the streets of Prague; every- 
one he met, who displeased him, was executed on the 
spot. 

Germany's pastoral paintings, animals and religious 
themes, were grand, and 'twould fill a large volume were 
we to speak of every picture we admired there. 

On June 15th occurred German Day, which was one of 
the grandest of the Fair; from many bands came entranc- 
ing music, followed by long lines of marchers, consisting 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 6f 

of men, women and children, a majority of them repre- 
senting German musical societies. No finer music was 
rendered at any time of the Fair than on that day. 

At their concert, given in Festival hall, Nordica, Ger- 
many's sweet singer, who is their leader in musical circles, 
added great interest, enthusiasm and entertainment to the 
festivities of the day. 'Tis not necessary to talk at length 
on Nordica, who is already famous. 

In July the German Turners, or gymnasts, held a festival 
in Milwaukee. From there they came to the Fair, and 
marched through the grounds many thousand strong, to 
the German building. In 1810, Frederick Ludwick Jahn, 
commonly called "Father Jahn," a patriotic German, 
concluded the only way his beloved fatherland could rid 
itself of French oppression was by systematic physical 
education of the Germans. At that time the best part of 
Europe was at the feet of Napoleon. 

Jahn was a man of education, possessed of personal 
magnetism which enabled him to procure zealous and 
patriotic pupils. Through his influence the first gym- 
nasium was opened at Berlin in 1811; his idea was to 
educate his people for self-government; like many other 
reformers, he was looked upon by the government as a 
dangerous enthusiast, and instead of respecting him for 
services rendered his country, his gymnasium was closed 
by the government and he was sent to prison. 

In 1842, King Frederic William IV. admitted that gym- 
nastic exercises were a necessary part of the education of 
men. Turner societies were then opened to the public. 
At present gymnastics are compulsory in the regular 
army. The victories of the Germans in the war of 1870 
was ascribed by leading writers on warfare to their su- 
perior powers of endurance, brought about by these 
exercises. 

In 1848 many Germans emigrated to the United States. 
Nearly all were Turners, and they at once started Turner 
societies. The first was established in Cincinnati. At 
the opening of the civil war there were 150 societies in 
existence; most of these were compelled to disband, but 
were re-organized at the close of the struggle. To be a 
member of a Turner society, a man must be eighteen years 
of age, a citizen of the United States, or promise to be 
when he attains his majority. He must be of good char- 
acter; if he proves to be otherwise, he is dismissed; so to 
Germany we owe much, for they brought to America 



68 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

exercises which now are prevalently practiced among 
men, women and children, making stronger, healthier and 
brighter citizens of them. 

A book written by Gntsmnth, one hundred years ago, 
is still recognized authority. A short extract: 

"We are not athletes, and our youths shall neither 
knock out their teeth, nor crash their ribs. They shall 
neither kill others, nor wrench their own limbs." 

In this exercise health is sought, not its destruction. 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 69 



BRAZIL. 

This new republic, which is second in size to America, 
with a population of more than 16,000,000, attracted great 
attention. She had been but a few years under a new 
regime, which is always at first difficult and laborious. 

When invited to make a representation at the World's 
Exposition, she was passing through a crisis; for the 
proclamation of the new republic had just been issued. 
A revolution arose through ambitions and pretensions of 
numerous agitators, which ended in May, 1892, with the 
exile of many officers and generals. 

In the last part of this month commissioners were 
selected, having one brief year for soliciting contributions, 
besides contending with unsettled difficulties. Though 
their affairs were not in a normal condition, if every 
country succeeded in making as comprehensive an exhibit 
they were to be congratulated, for 'mid discouragements, 
and the short time allotted, it was astonishing what they 
accomplished. 

All spaces allotted in buildings were too small, and in 
many instances exhibits were crowded, destroying the 
effect and making it difficult to examine them. Her build- 
ing was called "the pearl of architecture," and at night 
was exceedingly beautiful, when glittering from dome to 
basement with electricity. 

It was designed by Lieut-Col. Francisco De Souza 
Aguiar. Its interior was magnificent in design and fur- 
nishings; and Brazil's cultured, gentlemanly officials were 
called the handsomest commissioners on the grounds. 

On the walls of the grand salon and reception rooms 
were some of their fine paintings, "Proclamation of the 
Independence of Brazil on September 7th, 1822." 

At the head of a portion of his army rode the general 
proclaiming independence, while laborers ran from their 
work to hear the news. It was an exciting and grand 
portrayal by Pedro Americo De Figeuredo. Intense re- 
ligious fervor was displayed in "The First Mass," by 
Victor Meirelle. Shown in photographs were scenes of 
coffee farms and their methods of cultivation. 

Arranged in pyramids were fancy glass jars of Brazilian 
coffee, which they claimed was a perfected lineal descend 



70 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

ant of genuine old Mocha, the most excellent produced. 
Brazil raises over three-fourths of the coffee used in the 
world, which means seven million sacks yearly. Two 
thousand sacks of raw coffee were sent for use with their 
machinery in "Machinery Hall," which cleaned and pre- 
pared it for market use. 

We must return to the "Art Palace" for a few of their 
paintings. "A Country Ball in German Colonies," artist 
Pedro Weingartner; the first colonization in Southern 
Brazil was made by Germans, which have spread over 
many of their states, so they carry on extended commerce 
with Germany. Later important colonies were founded 
by Italians in agricultural and industrial activities. 

Since 1877 hundreds of thousands have settled there, 
contributing astonishingly to good citizenship. Henrique 
Bernardelli, a noted Brazilian artist, showed two paint- 
ings, "Mother Nursing Her Babe," and "Gen. Dedora Pro- 
claiming the Kepublic on November 15th, 1889." Both 
had received medals from other Expositions; in the last 
named no one could forget the portrait, so filled was it 
with vigorous, magnetic life. 

In sculpture was "Christ and the Adulteress." His 
strong, masterly attitude and commanding expression 
represented truly what we believe to be a just representa- 
tion of the Master when He said, "Let him that is without 
sin cast the first stone." We were indeed glad to see a 
face and form with none of those weak, feminine attri- 
butes which have been too often depicted of Him by 
artists; for the greatest Teacher of mankind would neces- 
sarily have a noble, strong, yet kind face. 

Brazil has numerous factories and mills with all modern 
appurtenances, spinning and weaving wool, cotton, even 
silk of fine quality. There are numerous tobacco factories 
there, it being a staple product; like other countries they 
have an abundance of breweries and distilleries, mills for 
flour, rice, corn and others. In the north of Brazil goats 
are raised; in the south various domestic animals, fine 
wool sheep taking the lead. 

In "Mines and Mining" was shown her great wealth in 
diamonds, emeralds, sapphires, rubies, topaz, beryls, 
amethysts, opals, agate, chalcedony, jasper, rare speci- 
mens of crystalized gold, marble, limestone, clays, coal, 
copper, iron, salt, sulphur, and mineral waters. 

A golden pyramid represented the mass of gold ex- 
tracted from one state in 100 years from 1720 to 1820, 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 71 

value |303,083,000. From 1836 to 1886 extractions from 
more territory represented over f 26,000,000. 

In "Electricity" she showed an interesting collection of 
telegraphic service; many kinds for naval purposes. The 
director for torpedoes and electricity sent from the navy 
yard of Rio de Janeiro a special apparatus for testing and 
firing mines. A beautiful chart described their telegraph 
lines, and a collection of maps illustrated the develop- 
ment of their telegraphy. Their various models were so 
perfect it was freely admitted they could not be sur- 
passed. 

In "Forestry" twelve states were represented out of the 
twenty which compose the union. Their exhibits were 
large in variety; two large logs of rosewood claimed spe- 
cial attention, as did polished specimens. 

In the leather exhibit was a large rubber sphere, fine 
tanned leathers, and skins of native animals. In "Trans 
portation" their exhibit was in two sections, maritime and 
land. In the first were miniature models of men-of-war, 
small ships and their machinery; a large long log hewed 
into a canoe, also a long raft for coast navigation and 
fishing. Although these are primitive, they are yet used 
by them, as nothing much has been accomplished in Brazil 
in fishing industries, but a grand future awaits it 

In the land section were suburban cars, samples of work 
made in their railroad shops, and photographs of engineer- 
ing; many maps which would have been of further in- 
struction were not exhibited for lack of space. 

Brazilian anthropology was interesting, not because it 
exceeded in beauty and magnitude that of other countries, 
but a great part of it referred to an extinct people found 
on American soil. These of Brazil were excavated from 
the great islands of Marago, which are situated at the 
entrance of the Amazon river; these islands are 96 miles 
from north to south, and 127 miles from east to west. It is 
supposed they were inhabited by warlike tribes of Indians, 
who courageously defended their native soil from 
European invaders. , 

Their potteries, consisting of urns, vases, dishes, etc., 
were sculptured and decorated in an artistic manner, 
which is hard to reconcile with the ignorance and inca- 
pacity of the Indians who now live in these islands. Many 
vases were covered with a fine layer of red clay, over which 
were raised designs in white; some were of spherical form, 
joined to a slender neck, their handles augmenting their 
elegance of ornamentation. 



72 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR, 

Their idols were adorned to represent ancient Egyptian 
priests; on their heads were bonnets, the wide ties droop- 
ing over the shoulder; on others the hair was represented 
in ancient style. There were undeniable proofs of a well- 
practiced art in terra cotta, and we are led to believe that 
these ancient people were of advanced civilization when 
inferior races crowded them out, causing the decay of 
their art and progressiveness. 

This island of numerous cemeteries offers a wide field 
for study and investigation of the human race, which in 
our day is rapidly taking on great development. 

But little space was given the work of Brazilian women 
in the "Woman's Building," so it was scattered in other 
sections; it was a large collection of fine embroideries, 
needlework, and hundreds of specimens of beautiful laby- 
rinth laces, showing patience in exact and delicate detail. 
There were drawings, paintings, water colors, peo 
sketches, and many other articles of skilful taste. 

The women of Brazil are a home-loving and home-abid 
ing class ; they dislike publicity and all that is noisy, which 
to them is indicative of immodesty. Being born home 
makers and mothers, their home is their world; for it they 
would live or die. They are thorough in habits of order 
and economy, and are a combination of poetic delicacy and 
Christian piety, making them devoted, judicious mothers, 
loyal friends and ministering angels in sickness. A Brazil- 
ian mother never allows her daughter to roam about at 
will; if she attends a daily school, some member of the 
family escorts and returns to bring her home. This duty 
oftenest falls upon the brother, which accounts for the 
chivalry of these gentlemen. A case of infidelity is rare 
among Brazilian wives, who are hospitable in the highest 
degree. 

Among them are dentists, physicians, midwives and ex- 
cellent journalists. 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 73 



ITALY. 

Late in the year of 1891, Italy officially announced she 
would take part in the Columbian Exposition. She made 
a magnificent display in nearly every department, natur- 
ally contributing largely in fine arts, making on this line 
a stronger impression, especially in sculpture, than any 
other country except France, Austria or Germany. This 
has a special reference to her sculpture. 

In her section in "Art Palace" stood the statue of 
"Modern Mythology," by A. Appolini, of Rome. This was 
given the "golden apple." Cold and impassive, at first it 
seemed, but slowly the thought dawned upon us it takes 
on color and is warming into life. 'Tis a perfect human 
form, and fascinated we listen to hear her "Hello," for she 
held at her ear the telephone receiver. His medallion of 
Dante's "Beatrice," and many others, received high praise 
from critics. "Eve After Sin," by A. Alegretti, was of 
touching conception in expression and attitude of re- 
morseful sorrow. 

A prim, sour-looking woman stood by it, and savagely 
said: 

"Wish I could been in Eve's place. I'd showed her how 
I'd not made every woman in the kingdom suffer for her 
foolishness." 

Her not very edifying remarks were drowned in the 
laughter of spectators. 

A noble effort was the bust of "Liberty," by L. Bistolfi, 
of Rome; a bronze of Othello, by Calvi, of Milan; most 
apparent in his expression was hate, fierce affection, 
gloomy doubts, and jealousy, as he looked on the hand- 
kerchief in his hand. 

"High Wave," by Fiasche, Florence. One never tired 
of watching the laughing girl draw from contact with the 
waves, and there's not a subject we carried home more 
clearly in our minds, or that has left a more certain long- 
ing to see it again. "A Flower Among Flowers," by E. 
Garibaldi, was a maiden of lovely face and form, sur- 
rounded by garlands of flowers. 

These are but a few out of the hundreds, and 'twill be 
the same in oil and water colors; so much was worthy for 
which space cannot be given. 

"The Ill-fed," by Gabrina, was pathetic and described 



74 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

half -starved people. His most noted one is "Columbus," 
which he was four years completing. "Such a Sweet 
Note," by F. Andriotti, Chicago. The artist's treatment 
of the subject made the title of it most apparent ; pure and 
true was the "Lady of the Pearls," by Belinben. 

Their reproductions of classic bronzes from excavations 
of Pompeii and Herculaneum, were copies from the origi- 
nals which are in the National museum at Naples; so real 
was imitated the corrosions and ravages of age, one might 
fancy they smelled the mold and closeness of their long- 
burials. Of hundreds shown we mention a few, "Hercules 
Taming a Stag," "Mercury in Repose," "Faun and 
Bacchus," and statues of "Seneca" and "Ptolemy." 

Venetian glass was manufactured for the first time in 
America on "Midway." A reception was given in this 
building by Marquis Eurico Ungaro and the royal com- 
missioners of Italy, where for the first time in America 
was witnessed the intricate and delicate modes used in 
manufacturing this glass. 

The melted lumps of glass, which looked like goldstone, 
while in a melted condition, were attached to iron rods, 
then two men walked from each other the length of the 
building, twisting and stretching the hot mass into a 
uniform rope, leaving it on the floor to cool, while they re- 
peated the process with other colors; uniform lengths 
were cut from each of these, and placed upon a layer of 
glass, which had been fitted by means of melting into the 
creases of the shovel it lay upon. After this it was sub- 
jected to the heat, then a mold attached to an iron rod was 
rolled over it, taking it up to its shape; immediately it 
was removed from the mold, and with scissors they 
trimmed the opening and with pinchers closed the bottom; 
then 'twas pinched and pulled into fantastic shapes by 
eye, not by measurement, like so much wax, into any 
pattern desired, melting more glass and sticking it on, 
then pulling and pinching out ornaments like butterflies, 
birds, flowers, dragons, in fact, doing anything they 
wished to increase the general beauty. 

In "Liberal Arts" they exhibited a punch bowl, placed 
on a tripod of the same material, which was hundreds of 
years old and was a lost art. The tripod and bowl were 
of crystal amber (we say this because it looked like it); 
between its outer and inner walls were curling ribbons 
of purple and pink tinted white, a bluish-gray tinge 
running through it. 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 75 

In the next room of the Venetian works men patiently 
ground on emery wheels small, flat, colored stones, which 
are used in mosaic decorations for cathedrals and many 
other buildings. Here they built with tiny mosaics, 
flowers on jewelry. The particles used were so fine that 
a microscope was required to aid them in their work. 

Next we passed through rooms hung with crystal chan- 
deliers where tables and shelves were filled with exquisite 
Venetian glassware, finalty arriving at the reception and 
banquet, where the Marquis gave a speech of welcome, in 
which he literally joined Italy- and America in marriage. 
All were presented with the glass from which they drank 
and which they had seen made. 

Present were the Duke of Veragua, the Duchess, the 
son and daughter, and many others of note. 

In "Liberal Arts" their musical institutions were largely 
represented from Naples, Rome and Florence. On Octo- 
ber 12th there was given, by talent mostly from their 
country, a grand concert at Festival hall, followed in the 
evening b}^ another gorgeous program in the assembly 
room of "Woman's Building." 

Here was witnessed one of the richest stage effects ever 
placed before a public. It consisted of tableaux repre- 
senting Columbus, from his christening as a babe to his 
death. 

First, there pealed forth from the big organ, which is 
now in the new university hall of Ann Arbor, the "Royal 
Italian March," played by Henry B. Roney ; then was sung 
from the Columbian ode, written by Miss Harriet Monroe, 
a tenor solo by Dr. N. H. Pierce: 

"Alone, alone, behind wide walls of sea, 
And never a ship has flown 
A prisoned world to free." 

Next from the, organ was given "Coronation March," 
"Le Prophete," by Meyerbeer; then a costumed chorus 
entered representing the genius of youth, music, poetry, 
astronomy, history, religion, truth, enterprise, progress, 
Columbus, tradition, geography, travel, fame, drama. 

The first' age represented was Columbus' father and 
mother with him, as a babe in arms, and with Genoese 
before the priest for the baptism. Next the "Genius of 
Youth," Master Charley Davison, of Grace Church choir, 
sang "With Verdure Clad," "Creation," by Haydn; then 
by the choirmen of Grace church, a Gregorian chant of the 



76 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

fifteenth century, "O come let us adore the true God, One 
in three, and three in One." 

Second age, "Inspiration;" young Columbus playing 
pallone with playmates; he held a tambourine to catch 
a ball thrown him. Next the "Genius of Tradition" sang 
the song of "Aspiration :" 

"In the dark I've lived, 

But I dream of the day, 

God has shown me a vision and pointed the way 

Over land, over sea. 

Though I faint, though I fall, 

I must follow it on and reveal it to all." 

Third age, "The Scheme." Ferdinand and Isabella, 
surrounded by court ladies, soldiers, courtiers, the car- 
dinal, monks and priests, all listening as Columbus 
seemed to tell Isabella, This was sung by the "Genius of 
Enterprise:" 

"There is a land that lies asleep upon the ocean's breast." 

Fourth age, "The Departure," with "Ave Maria" and 
"Glory to the Father, Son and Holy Ghost, may God lead 
the hero to the hidden coast." 

Fifth age, "Kealization." He had found the land and 
Indians. (These were kindlv furnished bv Coh Codv, from 
the "Wild West Show.") "The "Genius of Geography" 
sang the prayer of Columbus : 

"God, who through the storms hast led us, 
Thou, whose love has cheered and fed us, 
Thine the glory, thine the praise." 

Sixth age, "His Triumphal Return." 

"Hail to the leader, joy and praise, 
Crown him with deathless glory." 

In the seventh age his death was represented by Hon. 
John C. Wyman, Commissioner of Rhode Island, one of 
God's good men. The choirmen sang "Trovatore," Verdi: 

"Pray that peace may attend the soul departing, 
Whither no thought or care of earth can follow." 

Lastly came the apotheosis, and Miss Harrison stood 
arrayed as fair Columbia, while the "Genius of Music" 
and the choir sang: 

"Columbia, on thy brow are dewy flowers, 
Plucked from wide prairies and from mighty hill s." 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 77 

These are abbreviated selections from the Columbian 
ode, written by Miss Harriet Monroe; we would that we 
had it to give you in full. This ode will go on in history as 
one of the noblest ever penned. 

After this followed the promenade concert; the Expo- 
sition band was stationed at one end of the gallery; at 
the other the Mexican orchestra. It was a proud, glitter- 
ing array of splendid costumes, uniforms of foreigners 
and Americans. 

Pretty Madam Korany, of Turkey, now of New York 
city, was costumed in white, trimmed with gold embroid- 
ery; her luminous eyes were aglow, her dark hair falling 
in loose waves, was carelessly knotted back under a scarf 
of creamy Spanish lace worn over her head in the Syrian 
fashion. 

This lovable, lithe little woman fitly represented the 
poet's dream of Lalla Rookh. 

The Imperial German commissioner wore white 
trousers, high shining boots with spurs, a red coat trimmed 
with gold braid and buttons, upon his head a fez. 

Ceylonese in native dress passed to the guests their 
famous tea. The Marquis and Cavalier Geutta received 
with the royal ambassador and ambassadress, Baron and 
Baroness Fava, in whose honor the reception was given. 
The committee of ceremonies were leading officers of the 
United States army and navy, and they acted in conjunc- 
tion with those of Italv. 



78 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR 



WANDERING ABOUT. 

Aimlessly wandering down the broad walk under the 
shaded portal of "Liberal Arts," stopping for luncheon and 
sipping "moniers," or the German chocolate; at one coun- 
ter two saleswomen rapidly sold at twenty-five cents a 
box, sand from San Salvador, "the identical sand upon 
which Columbus trod, when he discovered the New 
World," so they said. 

Over in Van Hauton's, seated in their marble build- 
ing, in chairs of burnished brass and velvet, waited upon 
by dainty muslin-capped and aproned Gretchens. Over on 
the Colonnades, then the peristyle, watching the "Whale- 
back" sail, like a thing of life, into the harbor, unloading 
its freight of happy humanity. 

Addie thought she was capable of stepping on the mov- 
able sidewalk without aid from the handsome guard, who 
so gallantly assisted its passengers off and on; but alas, 
her confidence in self was misplaced; she reeled and fell 
prone upon the shoulders of a gentleman, who, though 
surprised, pleasantly informed her, "Accidents would 
happen, and to take her time to get to rights, that many 
were his experiences in life which had been more un- 
pleasant." 

She apologized, saying she trusted she had broken no 
bones. 

"Nothing," said he, looking most pathetic, "but my 
heart." 

His wife accompanied him ; introductions followed after 
the metropolitan fashion of the Fair. It was Professor 
and Mrs. Brown, of Washington, D. C. After a pleasant 
restful ride and chat, we strolled to the lake front and 
watched the life-saving service. 

Lake Michigan was raging, throwing white-caps, and 
over the tempestuous waves shot the life-line over the 
mast to rescue the sailors, rapidly following it the life- 
basket in which they rode over the cable safe to shore, 
except for a dipping purposely given them by the life- 
saving crew, who grew reckless in this mirthful perform- 
ance, heartily singing: 

"Heave away, lads, now loosen the cable, 
We'll wet 'em to the skin, if we are able; 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 79 

We'll save his life, now tighten the cable, 
Think of his home and wife, his darling Mabel." 

Others of the crew who had gone out in the life-boat 
were struggling in the water, but aided by life-preservers 
and their over-turned boat, which had righted itself, soon 
with strong, heavy pulls, they were riding on high, foam- 
crested waves, or suddenly sank into the trough of the 
sea. On reaching shore one of them purposely fell into 
the water, and compelled the men to pull and tug with 
all their strength to get him out. When they landed him 
in safety on terra firma, he must have heartily wished 
he had gone to the bottom, for every man of the crew 
gave him a solid kick, as a sort of compliment for his 
heavy joke, which weighed about three hundred pounds. 

We strolled by the battleship "Illinois," the soldiers' 
encampment; some were making an outdoor toilet, by 
scrubbing in a tin basin, with sleeves rolled atv»/e i 

their elbows, hair disheveled. They roared a song to the 
accompaniment of banjos: 

"We're a jolly, rollicking lot, oh boys, 
Tra la la la la la la!" 

As we passed the Victoria House their chorus floated 
out on the air: 

"Vive la, vive la, vive la, vive, 
Camp life at the World's Fair." 

On past the German building, under the Intra Mural, 
rounding the corner by France, stopping in Iowa, where 
its band was giving its afternoon concert; then into old 
Mt. Vernon, where was being given a minstrel concert, 
by white singers from the South, who entertained the 
audience with: 

"Oh, see dat watermillion smiling fro de fence, 
How I wish dat watermillion it was mine, 
De white folks must be foolish to leave it dere alone, 
A-smilin' at me on de vine." 

A brown-eyed little woman of the party stopped short 
in front of New Jersey to give her experience; how, 
in the first week of May, she attempted to visit the New 
Jersey building; how, as she stepped upon the porch, a 



80 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

feeling of trepidation and inner-fright, utterly unexplain- 
ble, came over her, and tremblingly she placed her hand 
upon the big brass knob, when immediately the reason 
for such feelings began to dawn and to< grow "dawner," 
as a liveried black man opened the npper half of the door 
a few inches, and asked if she came from New Jersey. 
Her heart sank low in its beatings, and tears of insulted 
pride leaped to her bright eyes, as he informed her that 
"this building was exclusively for the use of New Jersey 
people." 

The under door was swung back, disclosing to her gaze 
a cozy, tasteful room, a bright fire in the grate, choice 
paintings upon the wall, statuary, bric-a-brac, beautiful 
rugs upon velvet carpets, and luxurious chairs. Some 
officials, sitting by a handsome table, stared at her, freez- 
ing her abused spirit for the moment into a state of hope- 
less despair at being outside the pale of New Jersey 
society. 

Like a flash of inspiration the words leaped to the trem- 
bling little woman's lips, "Ladies, at least you're dressed 
like them, I am delighted to inform you I'm not from 'Jar- 
sey,' but from the banner state of the Union, whose build- 
ings throughout the Fair will always have room for more 
than one more. I leave this place, which is so exclusive, 
and invite you to come and learn of Wolverines how to 
give people a royal welcome." 

The facts were, a few officials of the New Jersey build- 
ing proposed that the "common herd" should not dese- 
crate the sanctity of their World's Fair home, but these 
plans, which were evidently those of a very few of her 
officials, like the plans "of men and mice," ran "aglee," 
all on account of the rigid rules of the Exposition, that 
through the day every building must keep open house for 
the benefit of the public. 

From here we walked into the broad, cool hall of Mis- 
souri's building, and were met by its genial executive 
official, Hon. Mr. Guinn, and wife. It being Missouri day, 
we found there Michigan's officials and those of all other 
states. A sweet soprano, accompanied by a Steinway 
Grand, trilled forth, "These are happy, golden days." 

In the centre of the hall was a statue fountain, designed 
for a conservatory, entitled "Love's jbream." A maiden 
slept in a large shell, which rested in a bed of pond lilies ; 
cupids, perched on fishes, guarded her. In one of the par- 
lors was a sleeping Iolanthe; she was rising from a green, 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 81 

mossy bank through the waves. Both of these were by 
Caroline S. Brooks, who contributed so large an amount 
of her rare art in so many places of the Fair as to be 
strongly identified with it, and it will go down in other 
ages that in World's Fair history her art was akin to life, 
and her figures seemed to breathe. 

One of the lower parlors was unique. Its walls were 
sprinkled thickly with powdered iron, then studded with 
shining ores from Missouri. Soon its beauty was greatly 
marred. Umbrellas and canes were used in removing spe- 
cimens as souvenirs, "sovereigns," as they were sometimes 
called. Such mistakes were made, as has been stated, 
by Bostonians or New Yorkers. Never was a rustic found 
guilty of making wrong pronunciations, but ? t was always 
someone from some big city, who ought to know better. 

Over in the Mexican building was a large oil painting 
based upon the popular history of Germany during the 
sixteenth century. It showed the interior of a room and 
several opening from it, of the castle of a banker, Antony 
Fugger. The emperor, Charles V., having returned from 
a victorious battle with the pirates, known as the "Tu- 
nisians," had brought back bond and note of payment. In 
a spirit of generosity the banker burned them in a fire 
of cinnamon sticks. A beautiful lady stood near offering- 
him fruit; the massive old furniture, tapestry hangings, 
the rich robes of all ; the fire-blower hanging by the grate ; 
the inlaid ceiling of brilliant colors, and the dark, sombre 
richness of the whole, took us, in fancy, back to the slow 
progress of those many centuries ago, but, American-like, 
we leaped out of this slow, luxurious life for the grand 
present, and soon were wandering through old Fort Ma- 
rion, Fla. 

Passing through the shadowy, misty grayness of 
Florida moss, at last we came upon her many county rep- 
resentations and mottoes, reading like this: 

"The land of peace, plenty and prosperity." 

"The land of health, homes and happiness." 

"We raise three crops of vegetables each year." 

"Here's wine made from our grapes." 

"Our rivers and creeks are full of oysters and clams; 
largest in the United States." 

"Orange cider made from the finest oranges in the 
world." 

"Beautiful shells and things of ocean beauty for sale 
here." 



82 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

"Barrels of resin from the state which has the best and 
most." 

In vain we tried to persuade the seller of the innocent, 
harmless chameleons, robbed of their God-given freedom, 
to die on the breast of someone, to make them feel sorry 
for the day when they entered into the transaction of 
helping to rob them of Nature's home. Someone proposed 
to him the motto: "No slaves in captivity in the South, 
but Chameleons in captivity at the North." But he seemed 
positive such a motto would not prove profitable, as 
'twould appeal too> much to the heart as well as the intel- 
lect, so the "frightened, panting little pets of Florida," 
wore tiny gold collars and chains, which were stapled by 
pins stuck in the wooden counter. 

"Get a wooden man, young ladies," appeared on a label 
which was on a palmetto shrub, where appeared the face 
of a man. This sort of man was preferable, for he did not 
even know enough to sell chameleons. 

Next, in the Kansas building, her appropriate motto 
met our eyes: "Sir Honesty, when raised to knightly 
power, took for his coat-of-arms the bluff sun-flower. 

"When his scutcheon this disgraced, he said, 'My em- 
blem shall be open-faced/ " 

Two boys succeeded in being very funny. One kept ask- 
ing questions in regard to the exhibit of silk worms. 

"What are those yaller, peanutty-looking things lying 
in bunches of smartweed and covered with cobwebs?" 

"New kind o' peanuts, o ? course." 

We saw a stuffed ox hitched to a two-wheeled cart in 
the North Dakota yard. A statement read: "This is the 
conveyance which carried the first white man into our 
region." 

We were much pleased with the mineral exhibit of Ar- 
kansas, and as one of the party broke off a piece of crystal 
from a huge specimen, a man came near and said, "Shut 
up." 

We were not saying much, and again all we heard him 
say was: 

"Shut up." 

The professor looked a little wrathy, as the man in 
louder tones repeated: 

"It's time to shut up." 

"What do you mean?" said a stern -faced, masculine 
appearing woman. 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 83 

"It's six o'clock and time to shut up." 

"I have never been shut up on time by any man." 

"It will not be a 'shut up' this time, madam, but a 'shut 

out' " 

As we passed out of the building the stern appearing 

woman turned to him and said: 
"Now, you shut up." 
"I will," said he, and he closed the door and locked it. 



84 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 



THE COLORADO MINE. 

This miniature mine was situated on the south side of 
''Midway/ 7 It was an invention of Wm. East, a practical 
miner. In this exhibition it seemed to us as though part 
of the mine had been cut down through and removed, 
exposing forty miners picking away with picks; mules 
hitched to coal carts, cars running to the shaft loaded 
with ore; buckets ascending and descending; in fact, a 
mine in complete practical operation. 

The tramway upon which the cars traveled led Mr. East, 
the patentee, to secure the patent of the cable car system 
also. At the top of the shaft was a sluiceway, eight feet 
long and five feet wide, for the reception of finely pumiced 
ore; fastened over the end of the sluice was red flannel, 
w T hich, being rough, caught all metal, which was squeezed 
into a ball, then placed in a stone vessel. Running out 
from this was a tube, which w r as corked; then quicksilver 
was added to the substance in the vessel, running through 
it with lightning speed, separating the silver and gold, 
which all this time wassubjected to great heat. The cork 
being removed from the tube, the silver ran out, leaving 
the gold. During this operation a practical and scholarly 
lecture on mining was delivered by Mr. East. 

It took Mr. East four years to study out and complete a 
mine to be seen in full operation, which excelled, and was 
more complicated, so he and others claimed, than the 
famous Strasburg clock. 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 85 



"BLARNEY CASTLE" AND THE "IRISH VILLAGE." 

The first mentioned was under the patronage of Lady 
Aberdeen, while the second was under that of Mrs. Hart. 

The hearty, handsome Irish lassies of both places were 
adepts in all occupations, commencing with the smallest 
detail in housekeeping, doing fine sewing, spinning, weav- 
ing, making Irish point lace, knitting, besides being up 
in the arts of playing the piano, violin, singing sweetly 
and dancing gracefully. The most industrious girls and 
boys of the Plaisance were these. 

Their manufactures were all handwork. A large con- 
cession was paid by them to the Exposition Company, and 
this accounts for their articles being high priced. Bog- 
wood was designed into various pieces of jewelry and 
funny toys, pigs with pipes in their mouths, etc. 

Peat fires were laid under the large black kettles, and 
rush lights were ready for lighting. These, the girls said, 
were things of the past; that conditions in Ireland had 
been vastly improved upon, yet there was room for more. 
These pink-cheeked girls made sweet, clean butter, and 
sold buttermilk to the passers-by. They carded flax and 
spun it from the short rolls into coarse and fine yarns. 
They also spun a fine wool thread, which a man wove in a 
loom over one hundred years old, into a fine quality of 
cloth, in checks and stripes for gentlemen's clothing; other 
men knit socks all day. 

Some of the girls worked incessantly on their beautiful 
laces, while others presided over their well-cooked dinners, 
which they served every day in Mrs. Hart's village. She 
was a black-haired, slight little woman, and like Lady 
Aberdeen, was philanthropic in her desire to show Irish 
industries and thus help them. Both villages were suc- 
cessful in carrying out this plan. 

When the dairymaids of Blarney Castle were asked 
where the Kerry cows were, they answered, "In the 
pasture." 

Yes, they were in the green fields of Ireland, and the 
people drank buttermilk and ate butter made from the 
milk of American cows. 

The long narrow white stone which shone in the front 
of Blarney Castle near its top, was an imitation of the 



86 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

original. When on the roof many kissed it to make them- 
selves witty and eloquent and likely it answered the pur- 
pose quite as well as the genuine one. 

One day, as Lady Aberdeen was watching a juggler do 
tricks, he noticed her amusement and said: "Givee me 
dollar, show how 'mericans do tricks." 

She threw him one, which he deftly caught, slipped it 
into his pocket and coolly walked away. She was so 
amused at being beaten she threw him another. 

In both villages were held "indade, an 7 indade" good 
Irish times, clog dancing and others; while Jiminie Dooley 
squeezed the bag-pipe, the village blacksmith would drop 
his tools for a merry bout. This was too much for a typical 
Irishman, so he jumped to his feet, saying: "I cannot kape 
still, at all, at all," throwing off his coat he nimbly "toed 
it off" to the music of "St. Patrick's Day," roaring out, 
"In the marning;" as he sang and danced he brought in 
funny rhymes to another tune, about "Hoin' the praties 
and feedin' the pigs." 

Both of these villages possessed many attractions and 
much that was of interest; the outsides of these buildings, 
in the evening, were very pretty, but imagination ran riot 
when looking on the front walls of Mrs. Hart's village, 
when, by electricity, the foliage of trees were reflected on 
the seemingly solid masonry of the high turreted walls, 
and fancy pictured to us that which we had often heard 
sung in their fine concerts, "By Killarney's lakes and fells." 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 87 



THE SOUTH SEA ISLANDERS. 

These natives with their copper skins, well oiled, car- 
ried out Mark Twain's requirement of full dress, "to wear 
a skirt, anyway." 

The scenery in their theater consisted of oriental paint- 
ings of their country. Their love of noise was sweet music 
to them. In the "matu" dance of rejoicing they danced in 
a circle, clapping hands, laughing and contorting their 
bodies. In the Fiji "war dance" two natives sat flat on 
the floor and pounded on hollow pieces of wood, all singing 
dolefully; dashing suddenly and fiercely to the front of the 
stage, charging upon the audience with wooden swords, 
then cutting and slashing on imaginary captives. 

In their club drill called "Alliuii," they gracefully kept 
perfect time, executing evolutions with fine precision, 
keeping their eyes on their leader and following his com- 
mands as well as could be done under the strictest mili- 
tary discipline. Next followed a duet given by two brown 
beauties, Fetoa and Lola, the natives joining in the chorus, 
making a crude attempt to combine the four parts of 
singing. 

A little three-year-old, dressed like an American child, 
always came on the stage to sing with them, "America," 
in their language, which created great enthusiasm with 
Americans. 

Next to this building was their yard, and in it their 
rush houses. These Islanders were absolutely clean. It 
made them very indignant when asked, "Had they ever 
been cannibals." They had been educated in a mission 
school, and plainly showed its civilizing influence when off 
the stage, being very sociable and kind-hearted. 



88 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 



THE BURNESE ALPS. 

In the "Alps" building the sky was so blue that the 
atmospheric effect was a light, hazy blue-gray, through 
which the sun brightly shone. Goats and cows rested 
on the grassy mountain sides, rich with verdure and 
blossoms. 

At the right of "Midway" was a small, but beautiful 
panorama of the rising and setting of the sun in the Alps; 
when it rose we heard the "Alpine call;" when setting, 
the cows and goats, with their bells merrily tinkling, 
wended their way toward the small huts of the shepherd, 
which were in "the Burnese Alps." 

In "Electricity Building" the red sun disappeared be- 
hind clouds of crimson and blue edged with gold. Mght 
shadowed the village, then the street lamps flared out, 
and lights appeared in the houses, soon the lights went 
out. Toward morning, in the east, appeared a dim light 
growing brighter, until in glorious splendor the sun rose 
in clouds of light green, red and fleecy white, with flecks 
of blue, all gold shaded; then filed across the bridge, be- 
neath which flowed a heavy rush of water, a team and 
hayrack; peasantry followed with rakes and scythes. 
On this perfect Alpine day they worked, laughing, sing- 
ing and happy, until four in the afternoon, when they 
suddenly ceased and hurried over the bridge, for a dark, 
threatening cloud had shut out the sunlight. 

Nature muttered, a gentle rain descended, growing 
into torrents as flash after flash of lightning was followed 
by louder thunder. In the noise of the elements we 
seemed to hear the bleating and lowing of the goats and 
cows; suddenly the sun appeared, and every hill and glade 
sparkled as though covered with millions of diamonds; 
then came "Alpine calls," mingled with hymns of praise, 
•and singing of birds. 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 



89 



THE JAVA VILLAGE. 

This village was an exact reproduction of one in the 
western part of the Isle of Java. There were present one 
hundred and twenty-five natives, over forty of them 
women. They represented the pursuits and modes of life 
of the common people of the island. 

The first building at the right was a police station, the 
alarm being a hollow tube of wood suspended from the 
ceiling; it was called the "kolkol" or alarm signal; next 
were their straw woven houses where rice was stored. 

In a shed-like place women pounded rice fine in wooden 
bowls with blocks of wood. Women sat on the floors of 
their homes, weaving cloth in a primitive loom, fastened 
about their waists, the other end fastened to anything 
that happened to be near them. Slowly and patiently 
they necessarily wove their fine cloth, and 'tis no wonder 
these people stipulate that the fashionable skirt of their 
land shall be just wide enough to reach about them. 

In other homes were the straw workers weaving rice 
straw into fine, expensive hats, and smooth rushes into 
tasty baskets, even covering bamboo whistles with a fine 
woven straw work. 

In another house was shown model bridges made of 
bamboo, the natives building them in all the curious forms 
of their bridgework, showing arcs, girders, etc. There is 
one cantilever bridge in Java which has a span of one 
hundred and thirty feet. 

They made bamboo blow pipes which experts use in 
killing game; in another house men were making swords 
and daggers in curious forms characteristic of Java. 
They worked white iron and steel together, making a 
beautiful Damescene sword, which was further treated 
with drugs and acids. The handles were decorated with 
the heads of gods from Javanese mythology. 

In one of the houses lived the costumer for the theater, 
making beautiful gold and silver embroideries for the 
costumes of the actors and actresses. Others made slip- 
pers, cigar cases and decorated everything possible with 
wood carving. 

The Batavia hatmaker and wife busily worked while 
their brownies of babies rolled about them on the floor. 
All these natives were happy little mortals, which is 



90 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

typical of their race. A quarrel was never known among 
these loving, peaceable people. Spectators respected 
them for their native refinement, modesty and strict vir- 
tue. They were homesick from the first to the last of the 
Fair, talked but little, and did not seem to care to learn 
English. 

Two young Javanese learned a few words so as to offer 
cigarettes to ladies of tener than to gentlemen, saying : 

"How te do, Mr. Madam, goody, cheapy, fivee cent, 
nicotiney." 

A native tailor learned to use an American sewing 
machine, which he industriously worked on incessantly; 
he was in great glee over a machine which accomplished 
in a day what had taken him a week to do by hand. He 
said: "Me go home, takeey machliney," spreading his arms 
in every direction, giving us to understand he would do 
all the sewing of the island, ending his speech by saying: 
"Big'um monly," meaning big money. 

In house No. 27 an old lady performed the difficult and 
curious process of coloring their native cloth. It was 
hung on a rack, then with a small spoon to which was 
attached a spout, she drew on the cloth a pattern with 
beeswax. The cloth was then soaked in a coloring solu- 
tion, which dyed only the parts not covered with wax; 
after this had dried the wax was soaked out in hot water, 
and another pattern put on for a second color, sometimes 
applying as high as six colors. The manufacturing and 
coloring of one skirt often occupied six months, being- 
handsome and expensive when completed. 

Everywhere in this village it was cool, clean and invit- 
ing. Some of the houses were occupied by the officials, 
and others by the actors and actresses, the star occupying 
one by herself. 

House No. 8 was occupied by a native prince named 
Kadhenadmin Soakmadilaga; he was "hadji" or priest, and 
had been twice to Mecca. The strange characters above 
his door were wise sayings from the Koran. The 
Javanese all are Mohammedans. 

The pantomime acted in the theater represented some 
mythical history of Java. Kanged on each side of the 
stage were hideous looking dolls, which represented gods, 
devils and various spirits, which were supposed to fight 
some terrible battles during the play over the star actress, 
who was a lovely princess. 

As the players came on the stage they bowed low and 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 91 

impressively to the dolls, dancing slowly, posing grace- 
fully, making cunning gestures with their little brown 
hands, looking seriously out of their black eyes. These 
dancing girls were from the court of the Sultan, and there 
their dancing is considered the highest development in 
native art, which, in Paris, obtained for the graceful, 
black-eyed, little brown beauties, an introduction to Presi- 
dent Carnot, who expressed his admiration for these 
gentle, well-mannered little women. 

The instruments used in the orchestra were long and 
narrow, sloping toward one end; metal plates were placed 
the length of them, which, had they been in tune, when 
played upon with pieces of metal, some of the airs would 
have sounded very well, for the musicians possessed much 
natural ability, and soon after their arrival learned to 
play "America," some hymns, "Yankee Doodle," and of 
course "Ta-ra," the popular air with the people of 
^Midway," who, if they had known what the word meant, 
would have called it one of America's "classic" composi- 
tions just the same. 

Busy natives roasted and ground Java coffee, while in a 
cool building, around which ran a veranda, it was daintily 
served, as was their Javanese tea, which product, it was 
claimed, had never been sufficiently known in America 
to be appreciated. 

Klaas, the ourang-outang, which was brought from 
Sumatra, possessed the strength of three men, and showed 
intelligence which seemed fairly human. In a roomy, 
strong wire cage he bowed, smiled, waved his paws, talked 
his language, sometimes hummed as though musical; 
when cold he covered himself with his blanket. The only 
syllables he was heard to say were "Kah" and "Kee." He 
was content and good natured. People did not plague 
him much, for he was so large they were a little afraid of 
him, which was fortunate for Klaas. 

A lyre, high in air, gave forth sweet, weird sounds, from 
voices of the breezes, and a bamboo water wheel played a 
musical jingle. The "brownies" would have been lonely 
without these, which were so familiar a sound to them 
when at home. 




92 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

HAGENBECK'S MENAGERIE. 

This arena exhibit surpassed anything of its kind ever 
held in America. Mr. Hagenbeck, at great expense, 
crossed the ocean, bringing a vast zoological exhibit, 
which was shown in large cages arranged around the outer 
walls of the pit in his building on "Midway." His lions 
were called the largest ever known, and his other animals 
were called the finest specimens ever seen in America. 
The wild boar dog, as large as a pony, weighed 400 pounds ; 
the largest lion and lioness, Nero and Pasha, on their 
arrival indulged in a royal battle, clawing and biting each 
other until blood streamed down their tawny faces, giving 
forth roars which sounded like distant thunder, tearing 
out their manes and tufts of fur, scattering them thickly 
on the battle ground; attendants armed with sharp iron 
rods attacked them, but it had no effect until their master, 
Carl Hagenbeck, arrived on the scene, stepped to the cage 
and talked German to them with the swiftness of a race- 
horse; on hearing his voice and seeing his familiar face 
they at once quieted down. 

Pasha was not quite satisfied, and on her first appear- 
ance in the arena pounced upon the lady lion tamer and 
chewed her knee; the tamer remained in a hospital until 
nearly the close of the Fair because of the injury. When 
she returned she came prepared for vengeance. She caused 
the lioness to be stoutly chained and stapled to the floor, 
then, stepping into the den, hammered her with a heavy 
iron until, grovelling, she whined and licked her hands. 
It was very evident which came out of the cage this time, 
"the lady or the lion." They have to be cruelly punished, 
but it's never excusable to be brutal, even for the sake of 
entertaining the public with some new feature. So long 
as such things are, we truly wish these terrific animals 
might be tamed with kindness, which is decidedly the 
successful plan followed out by those who have the most 
knowledge of animalkind, in taming horses, dogs and other 
domestic animals. 

Pasha was compelled to ride a beautiful white horse, 
which was protected by a thick padding, reaching from 
head to tail; the lioness, growling and showing her teeth, 
stretched herself upon the animal, and rested her head 
against its neck. When allowed to return to her seat she 
sat with drooping head in an attitude of utter demoraliza- 
tion, whining complainingly to the rest of the school of 
this indignity which was heaped upon her every day. 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 93 

One of the bears was a real swell; his coat of black fur 
shone like silk and lay in great wrinkles of fat as he walked 
on his hind feet, throwing his head pompously from side 
to side. He held himself haughtily aloof from the other 
slouchy, scraggy, "don't-care" bear, who, like many 
people did not possess the innate pride to stand straight, 
hold his head high, as did the "dude" bear, who desired to 
shine in animal society. The other, when walking on his 
hind feet, in a humped-over attitude, seemed as much as 
to say that " 'Twas no use for him to brace up, wasn't good 
looking anyway, wasn't anybody," for every time Nero 
returned to his seat from his forced bicycle ride, he cuffed 
this bear's ears and supposedly said, "Am so tearing mad, 
I've got to do something." 

A marvelous part of the exhibition was when the 
animals responded to "school's out." The wild boar dog, 
with .the domestic animals, wild cats, leopards, tigers, 
lionesses, lions and bears played with each other, rolling 
about together, licking each others' fur as good natured as 
children. Pasha never failed to leave her play to get even 
with her master, the keepers, and especially the lady after 
she returned. She followed first one, then another about, 
showing her great white teeth, snarling and growling, 
while each most attentively fed her candy from a large 
supply kept in their pockets for this very occasion. 

Lily, the smallest elephant in the Avorld, weighed about 
thirty-five pounds. Mr. Hagenbeck loved and cared for 
her as tenderly as he would a child ; she was perfectly tame 
and possessed a gentle nature. He valued her so highly 
that there was no price which would purchase his "little 
pet." She had not long been on "Midway" when she began 
to cough, get thin and refused to eat; everything was done 
to save her, but consumption had fastened its fatal fangs 
upon her, and with her head resting in Mr. Hagenbeck's 
lap, and her dying gaze resting upon the face of her best 
earthly friend, she passed away. He shed bitter tears of 
sorrow, not for her financial value, but because he loved 
the little animal, which he said "was almost human in 
intelligence," understanding all he said to her. 

Tradition says that at nightfall a mournful procession, 
Mr. Hagenbeck heading it, carried her to a place near 
Washington Park, where she was tenderly laid away, and 
some day a marble shaft will mark her resting place, and 
upon it will be engraved: "Lily Hagenbeck, the baby ele- 
phant." 



94 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR 



THE MOORISH PALACE. 

The exterior and interior architectural effects of this 
building were intended to represent the world-famed 
"Alhambra." The mysteries in this enchanted palace 
were unparalleled, standing as it did in a veritable palm 
grove, enhanced by groups of Moorish women and Arabs, 
Bedouin chiefs in armor, etc. We came suddenly upon a 
butler leaning against the wall in a doze, and bumped into 
distinguished appearing personages, saying, "Beg par- 
don," as we tried to push our way through solid glass. 

A brown-eyed little woman stopped her husband short 
in his effdrts to make arrangements with one of the wax 
figures (a woman, of course), to take a stroll with him and 
peep into the "wishing well" of crystal clearness and of 
fathomless depths. He said: 

"Excuse me, madam, I will return to you presently." 
"Now, wife, how could you have the heart to break up any- 
thing so interesting as that?" "Well, I want you to tell 
me who that handsome, distinguished looking lady is 
across the room." "Why, it's a friend of ours; let go and 
shake hands with her." 

"Why, yes, I am sure I know her," said his wife, walking 
up to her and reaching out her hand, while the opposite 
lady also smilingly extended hers, so heartily as to nearly 
change the old saying of "diamond cut diamond" into 
"glass cut glass." 

Dazed by these magnificent mysteries we caught an 
apparent glimpse of far-off Tangiers, and wandered 
toward it, through endless stretches of colonnades, capped 
by graceful arches of gold and brilliant colors. Suddenly, 
to our horror, we found ourselves in the harem of the 
Sultan, surrounded by his favorite wives. An Oriental 
beauty was amusing his majesty in a graceful dance. A 
eunuch guarded the door of this most private family scene. 
Not meaning to intrude, we passed on through the be- 
wildering labyrinths of colonnades and nooks, amused and 
amazed when unable to find our way out. Presently the 
cry "Help" was given, and we were led out of this mystery, 
only to pass into more. A North American Indian became 
lost in the maze; he had imbibed "something," so that on 
beholding many Indians reflected from his scowling 
visage, he gave a war dance and whoop, kicked in the mir- 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 95 

rors, and rode away in a patrol wagon. It took more 
than six men to hold him. The Chicago Record stated 
that "Vice-President Stevenson found this place more 
mysterious than politics, for he got lost in the mirror maze, 
bumped into deceptive wax figures, and laughed until he 
cried in front of those distorting mirrors." 

James Blair gave a special performance in the illusion 
theater for him and his friends, who were marshaled into 
a darkened room where Magneta was poised in mid-air 
on a ball. Suddenly the ball was withdrawn and she 
gracefully swayed about in space, moving in all directions 
with perfect freedom. Were we entranced, or was it our 
diseased imagination, or had the law of gravitation lose 
its force? In the next scene, on a slender stem the lotus 
flower began to open upon the bosom of the water; as the 
moon rose the flower opened to its fullness, disclosing the 
face and form of a beautiful woman. 

Next was represented the well-known myth of 
Pygmalion's Galatea. He was the king of Cyprus, and 
so dearly loved art that in passionate conception of 
thought he wrought out of crude material a lovely maiden, 
so perfect that he ardently desired to behold her in living 
form. With unceasing prayer he besieged Aphrodite to 
breath into the statue a soul and pulsating life. At last 
his prayers were answered and we beheld the life blood 
pinkening the cheeks, expression and brightness coming 
into the eyes, completing the transformation of a seem- 
ingly marble statue into a living, lovely maiden. 

We nearly believed the laws of Nature were defied. 
The Vice-President said: 

"When a man of his age was unexplainably fooled by a 
mysterious illusion performed by a pretty girl, he would 
like to know where the young^men came in." 

Next in a mirrored room two persons saw hundreds of 
their own selves. Ladies could see how their dresses set 
both back and front at once, side or topwise, it made no 
difference. For once we saw ourselves "as others see us." 

As we descended the stairs, gazing back admiringly 
upon ourselves, we stumbled onto the entrance to what 
the young man told us was "our future home." 

"Five cents to h — and back." 

On being promised we should return to earth, we en- 
tered this dread abode, where we witnessed the terrible 
sight of his Satanic Majesty riding down a broad, keen 
razor, which reached from a tremendous height to the bot- 



96 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

tomless pit. On this toboggan slide were "boarders" who 
had incurred his special displeasure, so were they taking 
a forced trip with him. 

"My guide and I did enter to return to the fair world," 

And, heedless of repose, 'we climbed; 7 

He first, I following his steps, 

Till on our view the beautiful lights of Heaven 

Dawned through a circular opening of the cave, 

Thence issuing we again beheld the stars." 

"We climbed" stairs, drawing nearer sweet music made 
by the Spanish orchestra; on reaching the next floor we 
found in the museum works of art executed in wax by the 
celebrated sculptors, Louis and Gustav Castan, of Berlin. 
They were fine reproductions of world-famed people con- 
tributed from many lands, serving the purpose nicely to 
those who had never seen the originals. As we gazed on 
these historic people the "past returned." "Great events 
and men that had once been, we here beheld again." 
President and Mrs. Lincoln, a shot, and he lies back, pale 
in death, while Mrs. Lincoln and Major Rathbone stare at 
him in dumb terror. Then the figure of Wilkes Booth 
alights on the stage, and, slipping, he cries : 

"Sic semper tyrannis." 

Next in the home of Martin Luther, where he was seated 
in the midst of his family, a loving husband and father, 
forgetting for a time his political and religious feuds. 
Near him sat his faithful co-laborer, Melanchthon, a happy 
moment to them, forgetting for the time their persecutions 
and discouragements. His children stood before him, 
singing, while he accompanied them upon the lute. Cath- 
erine, with babe in arms, looked with mother love and 
pride into its little face. 

Next we saw an example of the mighty, who lord it over 
the lives of their slaves, for without a moment's warning, 
the executioner raised his sword, and the slave's head 
rolled down the marble steps. As we passed along we 
found examples which related to the lives of people in 
many parts of the w T orld. 

Sad news had just been imparted by the cobbler to the 
little street waif that her shoes were past repairing, and 
fancy pictured her barefooted, walking the cold wet roads. 
"Grow old gracefully" is good advice and is only followed 
out when one is possessed with the grace to try. Nothing 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLDS FAIR. 97 

is dreaded more than wrinkles; when they come one 
nearly loses hope, but there was a remedy in the "fountain 
of perennial youth." Toothless, parchment skinned old 
maids, and trembling, bald headed, old dandies went 
through a door, and were given one immersion which made 
girls and boys of the old centenarians, so that, like Ponce 
de Leon, 'tis expected they started out to make new dis- 
coveries. 

After a wild and exciting chase the poacher killed a 
chamois; he climbed where it lay, and was in the act of 
loading it on his shoulders when he was surprised by his 
deadly enemy, the forest keeper, who, with leveled gun, 
would have shot him had he attempted to escape. Accep- 
ting the inevitable, he followed the keeper, sadly thinking 
of his hungrv familv who awaited his coming. 

One day, while Louis Castan was reproducing in clay, 
from a model in the usual scanty array, the door suddenly 
opened to a mother and daughter; horrified, the matron 
spread her hands over her innocent offspring's face, hid- 
ing from her the shocking view, while she haughtily 
pushed her back from the door and followed her out. 

Little Red Riding Hood approached the wolf, who cov- 
ered with the quilt, cowered in grandma's bed, with her 
ruffled night cap on. 

In this enchanted palace the sleeping beauty waited for 
the rich young prince to awaken her with his kiss, which 
would break the spell, which had been cast over her by a 
wicked fairy." Softly as the wavelets of a dreamy lake 
her bosom rose and fell," and 'tis a supposable case that 
she yet exists in the same condition as did she at the Fair. 

A sweet and soothing picture of childlife was a pink- 
dressed little tot wiping the blistering tears from her 
brother's cheek, saving: 

"Don't cry." 

Wonderful art was displayed in the divine face of the 
Savior and in the startled face of the woman at the well, 
as He told her all she knew of herself. 

Real, as though in life, was the faces and forms of 
Goethe and Schiller, German dramatists, poets and his- 
torians. Both shared honors in German literature. 
Mozart, the great German composer, who composed at six 
years of age; his masterpiece was "Don Giovanni;" his last 
and most sublime work was the "Requiem." Beethoven, 
the greatest composer of all time; "Fidelio," his "Ninth 
Symphony," is considered the greatest musical work ever 



98 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

created. Shakspeare, the greatest dramatist of the Eng- 
lish tongue, who astonished the world with wonderful 
creations from his master mind; his productiveness of 
truthful force, beauty and versatility of language, is past 
understanding. Eichard Wagner, the ingenious founder 
of the modern music drama which has called forth fervent 
admiration, also bitter antagonism; we are tenderly at- 
tached to this musician of our century who gave his 
dancy, stormy, pathetic compositions to an appreciative 
musical world ; his versatility was a rare talent. A special 
theater was built for him by King Ludwick, of Bavaria, 
where since, nearly every year, musical festivals are held. 

Franz Liszt, the celebrated pianist and composer, was 
a brilliant exponent of the new school of music, created by 
Wagner and himself; the former later on became his son- 
in-law. Liszt was made an abbe of the Roman Catholic 
Church, but never deserted his art. Alexander Third, at 
the time we saw him, was living in cjonstant fear of his life. 
It is asserted that he died of slow poison administered in' 
his food. Standing near him was the reigning Emperor 
of Austria, Francis Joseph First, dressed in the uniform 
of an Austrian general, wearing the star and ribbon of 
Marie Theresa and the golden orders of St. Stefan and the 
Golden Fleece. 

King Humbert and wife, whose World's Fair subjects 
officially represented them there, celebrated in Chicago 
their marriage anniversary with all honors. Chancellor 
of the German Empire, the successor of Bismarck and 
Capriva, a chancellor who experienced many difficulties 
in the Reichstag in pushing through the military bill of 
the government, which led to a dissolution of the German 
Parliament by an imperial rescript. The general was born 
in 1831, coming of an old noble family. 

Next a familiar English group; Queen Victoria, the 
Prince and his noble, sweet-faced wife. The reigning 
Queen of Great Britain and Empress of India succeeded to 
the throne when but eighteen years of age; she is dear to 
her English subjects and to all the dependencies of the 
English crown. Her writings are of rare merit. An ad- 
mirable personal record is her "Leaves from her Journal 
of our Life in the Highlands." 

Inspector Byrnes, New York's famous detective, who is 
author of the characteristic book, "Professional Criminals 
of America;" Hawthorne successfully told of this man in 
story, choosing him as one of his characters. 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 99* 

Who is not impressed with the pitiful history of little 
Louis XVII., of France, son of unfortunate Louis XVI. 
In his tender childhood little Louis was subjected to cruel^ 
outrageous treatment by the shoemaker Simon, in con- 
sequence of which he died an idiot. 

Dressed in a rich red robe, wearing the skull cap, about 
his neck a long gold chain, attached to it a solid gold cross,, 
his hands extended to pronounce blessings, was his Holi- 
ness, Pope Leo XIII. ; he is son of Count Ludivico Pecci r 
and was born in 1810. In his youth he was noted for his 
brilliant scholarship and exceptional talents. He took 
orders in 1837, and was advanced to important offices by 
Pope Gregory XVL, who in 1846 created him Bishop of 
Perugia; in 1853 Pope Pius IX. created him a cardinal; he 
was chosen to succeed his prelate in 1878. Mgr. Satolli, 
who was His Holiness' representative at the Fair, closely 
resembles him. When Satolli arrived in New York bay 
the usual courtesies were extended by American officials, 
in paying respect to the dignity of whom and what he rep- 
resented, the Pope and the Church of Rome. Satolli had not 
long been in Washington, which was before the opening 
of the Fair, when he was invited to officiate in the capitol 
at the funerals of Senators Barbour and Kenna; both 
died in April, 1893. Formerly such services had been con- 
ducted by the chaplain, but at these sendees the full cere- 
mony of the Catholic Church was carried out with sprink- 
ling of holy water, burning of incense and the lighted 
candles. Astonished and frightened orators began to ex- 
claim, "Vigilance is the price of liberty." One thing is 
evident and a truth, this dignitary of the Roman Catholic 
Church was invited to officiate at these services, and 
accepted just as any churchman of any other denomination 
would have done, and 'tis authoritatively stated that the 
services of this church were not offered on this occasion. 



100 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 



THE ORIGINAL GUILLOTINE ON WHICH MARIE 
ANTOINETTE WAS EXECUTED 

Was purchased of France at a fabulous sum, official writ- 
ings from the French government testifying to the fact 
that it was the original. 

On October 16, 1793, Marie Antoinette was beheaded 
by this monstrous machine, which afterward beheaded 
over fifteen hundred others. The woodwork was old and 
brown, while the circular knife was rusty. In the back- 
ground was a painting of the howling, blood-thirsty mob, 
who for hours insulted and stoned this unfortunate queen 
through the streets of Paris, severely injuring her and 
destroying her left eye. Clothed in black, her hands tied 
behind, the sad hearted, beautiful woman faced the board 
which the cruel executioner had tipped to receive her. 

On October 16, 1893, just one hundred years from that 
sad and eventful date, we looked upon this vivid repro- 
duction of the scene, which needed no explanation to bring 
home to the spectators the tragical significance of the 
event Her snowy white hair, which some historians have 
stated turned white in a night, while others say in a few 
weeks, in her deepest misfortune contributed to increase 
her majestic beauty and dignity. 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 101 



THE STREETS OF CAIRO 

Keminded one of a Mohammedan town and was built by 
an architect sent by the authority of the Khedive of Egypt. 
The exterior was uninviting, with carved openings over 
the long, narrow windows; beneath them were heavy bal- 
conies overhanging the streets. 

Memories of childhood stories trooped before us, of 
Joseph and his brethren, of Pharaoh's daughter and her 
maids bending over the babe Moses, as he lay in his cradle 
of rushes, crying pitifully, causing the royal woman to 
adopt him. We fancied the flight of the Holy Family into 
Egypt, and thought how all had wished to visit that far- 
off country, and with but little stretch of the imagination 
our dream of the Orient was realized, for the streets were 
swarming with Egyptians, Arabs, Nubians and Soudan- 
ese. Their temple doors were studded with ivory 
curiously patterned. 

On each side of the temple were obelisks, crouching 
grim and black, which one almost feared to walk between. 
On its outside walls were battle scenes and hieroglyphics 
explaining them. Inside the temple were representations 
in wax of Kameses II., who persecuted the Israelites, and 
of princes and princesses. It was no wonder these mum- 
mies were thought to be real, for real they did seem. On 
the surrounding walls were represented scenes of the time 
of 1450 B. C. One w T as a judgment scene of a guilty soul 
placed in a pig, whipped into a boat, which floated back 
to earth; another was Rameses II. and his wife, adoring 
"Amonra" in his shrine, which was perched on the 
shoulders of the high priests and princes. 

A lovely Jewish maiden danced before the high priest, 
who was seated in the altar, to the music of Oriental 
stringed instruments, while other priests performed some 
evolutions, which seemed like a cotillion mixed with the 
lanciers. 

In another room we climbed a ladder to look into a fac- 
simile of the tomb of "Apis," or the "sacred bull." Every 
day at sunset the high priest called the faithful to prayer; 
all faced the east and bowed their faces to the ground 
while so engaged. 

The priest fell in love with a typewriter, who was em- 
ployed on the "Midway." On finding she was to return 



102 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

home he organized a band of Arabs to steal her, as is their 
custom. She escaping, he was inconsolable, and tradition 
says he leaned over on the hump of his camel, weeping and 
wailing out his woes for days. The natives would not; 
have allowed a married priest to officiate, too 
severed the affections of two loving hearts, for the man 
agers of Cairo did not propose that their show should be 
interfered with by a weakling of a girl. 

Sixty-one shops were presided over by these people of 
the Nile, where were displayed carved ivories, jewelry, 
brass-work, love lamps, embroideries, draperies, Soudan- 
ese arms, and ancient gold and silver coins. All 
worked at their trades, or acted as sellers. Many were 
tent makers, as in times of old. The men made bed quilts 
of red and white in applique work, sewing the patterns 
together in fine stitches, over and over. Hundreds of 
these adorned the walls of the Egyptian theater, where 
the dancing girls of the Nile gave sword and candle 
dances, their black braided hair hanging thick with bang- 
les. About their necks were numbers of necklaces; on 
each arm six or eight bracelets. Their dresses were much 
more modest than their dances. They were dressed in 
gauzy waists with skirts, hanging loosely from their belts, 
wearing girdles of beads, or chains of Egyptian gold. 
This high art dancing of the Nile consisted of distorting 
and knotting the muscles, reminding us of a cat in a fit. 
One of them always flew into a rage at the audience, 
majestically striding back and forth, threatening the 
musicians and also the audience, who, not understanding 
what she said, thought, we presume, that if the weird 
sounds from the unmusical instruments did not keep bet- 
ter harmony and time she would not dance. 

The barbarian wedding procession was so childish as 
to bring to the cheek a blush of shame, for the participants 
lacked intelligence and civilization. First came two 
boys carrying lights on poles, between them the stick 
fighters keeping time to the deafening tom-tom of drums 
beaten by Arabs mounted on camels. Another camel bore 
on its back a curtained box with nothing in it. Next came 
the magicians, with eggs on eyes and ears; then fifers giv- 
ing deafening cat-like calls. Following them came the 
bridegroom and priest, carrying swords and shields. 
Closely following these came the bride covered to her feet 
with a red veil, while a drooping red cloth canopy, sup- 
ported by poles, was held over her by Egyptian girls. 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 103 

The magicians swallowed swords and committed other 
sleight-of-hand performances. Then followed the stick 
contest. Lastly came a sharp and exciting crossing of 
swords by the priest and bridegroom, the latter winning 
the battle and with victory his bride. 

Black-veiled women pushed among the people, fasten- 
ing bouquets upon the lapels of the coats of the gentle- 
men, telling them: "You be pretty, you rich," at 
the same time holding out their hand for the money, which 
made it almost impossible to escape without giving them 
some coin. So it was nothing new to hear one gentleman 
inform another: "Don't let those flower girls pin any 
bouquets on you; if you do you'll pay dearly for it." 

In one building was a room of the seventeenth century, 
the woodwork of which was inlaid with ivory. Its costly 
gilded ceilings were inlaid in mosaic patterns, and elab- 
orate draperies and rich rugs proclaimed the ease and 
luxury in which the wealthy of those days lived. 

The ever present "Toby" and his donkey, with many 
other drivers, clamored for all to "donkey ride," and digni- 
fied men became boys again as they tore down the streets, 
often accompanied by their own sons, and so far as actions 
went one was as boyish as the other as, in happy abandon, 
they shouted, swung their hats and raced like mad. An 
old man said to his vinegary-faced wife: "I'll give you f 5 if 
you'll ride a camel." She remarked: "I've never yet seen 
the day I had enough money; I'll do it." 

Soon she was mounted on a camel, swinging along like 
a boat in the waves of the ocean ; he following on another, 
laughing so hard as to nearly fall off. She, with never a 
change in her lemon or lime-like expression, shook her fist 
at him, saying: 

"You old gosling, you'll pay me f 5." Between his 
bursts of laughter he answered: "Yes, Nancy, you are a 
sight; you're earning it, and you shall have it." " 

Cairo was strikingly resplendent when bathed in the 
golden rays of the departing sun ; but when came on mys- 
terious night, and the cold, gray moonlight shone upon its 
quaint architecture and grave-looking people, the visitors 
felt they were indeed in Egypt. 



104 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 



THE FERRIS WHEEL. 

In awestruck wonder, speculative croakers and those 
who believed nothing impossible to an American in Amer- 
ica, watched the erection of this complicated piece of ma- 
chinery. The croakers said, "It will never be completed; 
if it is, no one will risk their necks on that contrivance. " 

Mr. Ferris, its inventor, saw its wonderful mechanism 
placed without a hitch or break, working perfectly, with- 
out a fault. Like most geniuses, he made no money from 
it, but it was the most attractive American exhibit on 
the grounds and the wonder of the Fair. During and 
after its construction the workmen looked like so many 
flies climbing about on its high, gigantic scaffolding. 
They were professional bridge workers and trained acro- 
bats in the fullest sense. Daringly they ran across on 
narrow scantlings, bravely fighting against winds, and 
laughing at danger; a little profane, perhaps, when trying 
to sit comfortably astride a beam to eat their noon-day 
meal, and joking like this: 

"We feel above the people down there." 

"It is the most elevating moment of my life." 

"We're lifted above earth and its sordid cares, yet peo- 
ple in high places are not always the happiest" 

They reached their high position by means of a bow-line. 

One day an artist for the "Chicago Herald" stepped into 
the harness, and as he was drawn from terra firma, a 
pained expression came over his face; as he ascended 
higher the look, we imagine, was what one might wear on 
entering the infernal regions, but faithfully "looking up, 
not down," he was soon astride a beam. 

A workman smashed his thumb at this tremendous, 
height of two hundred and fifty feet. A companion as- 
sisted the fainting man into the bow-line, and f ortunatelv 
lie reached terra firma in safety. Not as lucky was the 
man who stood beneath the incompleted wheel, when an 
iron bolt fell, from that great distance, striking him upon 
the head, killing him almost instantly. 

Next a reporter for the "Chicago Tribune" stepped into 
the harness, remarking: . 

"My life is insured; I have made my will, and before 
ascending I ask evervone's forgiveness." 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 105 

Like a brilliant meteor this rising young journalist as- 
cended to still loftier heights, but kind fate decreed that 
he should return and tell of the wonders he saw "up 
there." Accompanied by another reporter and the pro- 
prietor of the captive balloon and his little daughter, for 
the second time this young man rose to an exalted posi- 
tion of about three hundred feet, when suddenly he and 
the rest of the party were "called down" by the rapid 
whirling of the machinery below. It was a race with a 
tornado. On the balloon touching the ground, as by a 
miracle, they escaped from it; not a moment too soon, 
however, for in a few moments a small black cloud tore it 
into strips like ribbons. 

The mechanism of the wheel had been thoroughly tested 
at the machine shops, but the second great test was this 
tornado tearing through, leaving it firm and solid as be- 
fore. 

The wheel cost $450,000, some authorities state; others 
state it was $380,000. Each car held thirty people, and the 
trip was absolutely safe, costing only fifty cents for two 
revolutions of the wheel, yet those who wished the most 
danger for the most money had value received at $2 per 
trip in the balloon, and as their fakir advertised, "your pic- 
tures took," and "thrown in." A vast difference between 
oiled silk inflated with hot air or gas, and the safe ride 
on the strong wheel; still people did not say much when 
about to take this trip. 

While waiting to take the trip upon the wheel some 
stared in dazed, pantomimic wonder at the huge cog- 
wheels and swift driving shafts of the machinery. After 
entering the car the guard locked the door, then in the 
most hospitable manner imaginable he would say : 

"Be seated; make yourselves comfortable to enjoy the 
beautiful panorama spread out before you." 

Up, up, high, higher, highest, and we were two hun- 
dred and seventy-five feet in mid-air. Before us were the 
waters of Lake Michigan, which sometimes become sud- 
denly as wild and dangerous as the Atlantic, to which it 
is often compared. Fronting it were the countless marble- 
like buildings, and floating from domes and towers were 
ensigns of every country, predominant and most beautiful 
of all the "Stars and Stripes" of the red, white and blue, 
the red indicative of patriot's blood running between the 
bars of pure white, telling the silent story how our country 



106 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

came up through "great tribulations and contests;" and 
its stars, as they ever have, will still continue in this the 
nineteenth century, to light the way to victory. 

Our flag, at war with herself, is placed on the battlement 
heights of different opinions. "Terrible and troublous" 
as times have been for many years, we ask the question, 
are things better or worse as time progresses? Is the 
answer yes or no ? "Terrible and troublous" as times have 
been, most perilous seems the future of our Nation. The 
commencement of this state of affairs dates as far back 
as 1873, when English speculators who hate America and 
the name of "Bunker Hill," intrigued with (hide your faces 
while we say it!) an American, who, with a few strokes of 
his pen, substituted the word "gold" in the place of "sil- 
ver," thus making gold the unit of value and robbing silver 
of the place given it by our forefathers, even the right of 
free coinage. 

"When silver was the unit of value, gold enjoyed equal 
privileges with silver," this metal being an inheritance 
which our forefathers left to the masses, the laboring peo- 
ple. Long enough have we listened to the poetic soaring 
of orators, both in song and story, that our country was 
never so prosperous, while they point out to us the vast 
wealth of the "mighty in high places," mighty only for 
their gold, piled up by the demonetization of silver, and 
the pouring of millions of dollars of gold into pockets of 
voters like "John," which, with such as he, it has never 
failed to thoroughly hush up their honest silver senti- 
ments. But we thoroughly admire, and would pay the 
highest tribute possible to the silver heroes of Congress, 
who have, and are, fighting against a mighty foe, regard- 
less of party ties. 

Will silver, the people's money, be established again as 
a unit of value? Will voters give to our Nation life or 
death, prosperity or slavery? And will they at last allow 
an English mortgage to be foreclosed upon our America, 
the pride of all Americans? 

In 1873 occurred our first great money panic, and since 
it has grown to be nearly an every-day affair. So have 
tramps, thousands of them, which we did not have be- 
fore; a majority of them are able mechanics, and intelli- 
gent citizens, who are compelled to tramp for work which 
they cannot secure. This, Americans must acknowledge 
to their shame and sorrow. 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 107 

We believe, if such things are possible, that the spirits 
of Washington and Lincoln hovered in tearful pity over 
the helpless Coxey heroes, who knew of nothing else to do 
than march to Washington. We are glad they went, 
"bravely suffering all things," and though disappointed 
in "hoping all things," that crusade created right public 
sentiments, also a main pivot for the reformation to move 
about, not throwing off force, but regularly with every 
revolution it is taking on strength, until in the "home of 
the brave, 7 ' our America, the wail will no more be heard 
from the honest poor: 

"No work, no money; plenty to eat, but we starve." 

"It's over-production that makes the hard times," yells 
the millionaire, as frantically he clutches his gold. 

Have we lost the trend of the subject, "The Ferris 
Wheel?" No. The explanation is that "Fair Columbia" 
asked for room in the largest wheel in the world and re- 
ceived it, where she delivered the whole message to the 
scribe, and the rest of the passengers, saying to them : 

"A great responsibility has been placed upon you, which 
as an American citizen you should feel no shame in tell- 
ing; now do your duty, and it shall be revealed to all, and 
'twill dawn upon their intellectual vision with the 'at- 
tendant horrors of a nightmare;' for 'Coin's Financial 
Series' will be read by millions, awakening Americans to 
patriotic sentiment and action," and thus is carried out 
the majestic order given by thee, oh, "Fair Columbia," 
while we looked down on orientals, and foreigners of all 
countries, red-turbaned Turks, Arabs, richly robed Per- 
sians, painted and be-feathered savages, etc. 

The wheel was a revelation, when at night its edges 
gleamed with hundreds of electric lights, overlooking the 
illuminated "White City," where moving flash-lights made 
it light as day, while lines of swaying Japanese lanterns 
enhanced the scene, and the breeze inflated the great Jap- 
anese fish sailing in the air, making it seem like enchanted 
ground. 

When leaving the wheel, as we passed through the 
gate, an old lady refused to go with the party just entering 
for a ride on the wheel, saying: 

"I have a through ticket for Heaven, and I do not mean 
to go half-way there and return." 

A phenomenal feature in the building of the wheel, was 
placing in position, without a hitch or breakage, the 



108 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

seventy-ton axle, which was the largest piece of steel ever 
forged; it was successfully swung into position at a 
height of two hundred and fifty feet under the supervision 
of Mr. Kice, and his able assistants. Every piece of the 
great wheel's machinery was perfectly adjusted, each part 
fitting precisely into its respective place. 

One morning a steeple climber made the trip, riding 
outside of a car while washing its windows. 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 109 



THE HAWAIIAN PANORAMA. 

Represented the "burning lakes" near Honolulu, where 
fiery laya bursts from mountain tops and cayerns in every 
conceivable color, excelling in brilliancy the finest dis- 
play of fireworks. Rockets bursting forth, ran down and 
formed in places perfect statuary. One group looked like 
a child leaning against its weeping mother, who partially 
shielded her face with her drapery. Below it were the 
fiery lakes shining through a crust of lava, which daring 
tourists, when on the original spot, walk upon. This gor- 
geous spectacle was so realistic that observers could easily 
imagine they had been transported to that interesting but 
dreadful place, where the wind catches the lava and spins 
it in hairs from peak to peak. It is called by the natives 
"Pala's Hair." She is the goddess of those lakes, and when 
the eruptions are the worst they say she is very angry and 
hungry. Then in fear they throw in live pigs as peace 
offerings. When the eruptions have subsided they be- 
lieve they have pleased and appeased her. In the distance 
a silvery moon shone through azure clouds and reflected 
into the waters of the Pacific. On an elevation at the left 
stood the "Cliff House" for the accommodation of tourists. 



110 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 



THE DAHOMIANS. 

These strange people were never allowed outside of 
their gates, not even in the "Midway" parades. People 
were afraid of them, and well they might be, for they 
seemed quite incapable of ever becoming civilized. Their 
dispositions to roast and eat people on "Midway" as a 
burnt offering to their gods, were just as strong as when 
they were in the wilds of Africa; but they did have a 
wholesome fear of blue coats with swords, whom they 
seemed to know were ready for just such emergencies. 
They lived in huts made of rushes, the women doing all 
the work, which mainly consisted of rolling corn fine be- 
tween stones. This they soaked over night and baked on 
stone griddles placed over a fire built on the ground inside 
of their huts. Shells are used by them for money. 

Many of these savages went about trying to sell shells 
and trinkets to the frightened spectators, who would have 
fled from them and out of their village as from a plague 
had it not been for the protection given by guards. Some 
of the men sat cross-legged in front of their huts, em- 
broidering beads in fantastic patterns on rudely tanned 
hides, which they afterwards shaped into slippers. 

Their orgies they performed before their king, who was 
painted in many colors, paint largely taking the place 
of clothing, and their costume was sometimes supple- 
mented by gaudy decorations of feathers. He sat cross- 
legged on a barrel, while his subjects, looking worse and 
not nearly as "dressy," gyrated and danced in front of 
him. One wore a brown false face, with eyes and mouth 
cut out of it, then black streaks of paint were daubed 
about these cavities, and a something formed which we 
expect was intended for the nose. Then red and yellow 
streaks were painted on the cheeks of this face, which 
was two feet long and a foot wide. It was trimmed about 
with dried grasses, which drooped from behind and front 
to his knees. 

This gyrating dance, in some respects, was so "smart" 
a reminder of the modern skirt dance that it may yet be 
found to be a scientific fact that the wild, graceful skirt 
dance was invented and practiced by prehistoric people. 

Toward the end of the Fair one native only had suc- 
ceeded in stringing a few English words together, while 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. Ill 

the rest had learned none; neither had they ambition to 
acquire our language. Their delight at the thought of re- 
turning home one burly savage expressed as follows: 

"Tar-rar-bum-de-day. Ohecog likey. No.'\ 

And spreading out his arms he yelled : 

"Home, glady, glady." 

Nearly every foreigner of the "Midway" was homesick, 
and many were sick from the change of climate, coughing 
and seeming to be in the first stages of consumption. 



112 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 



THE OSTRICH FARM. 

Here was delivered a lecture on these birds of "fine 
plumage" : 

"Ladies and Gentlemen: — It gives me unmitigated 
pleasure to present to you some birds, named after noted 
people. Before doing so I will state that the black-feath- 
ered ones are males and the drabs are females. This is 
Mr. Koscoe Conkling, our handsomest bird and fastest 
trotter. Here is Mr. James G. Blaine, a particular and 
conservative bird. A dude stepped inside their premises 
a short time ago and James kicked him out. Here you see 
Frances Willard and Susan B. Anthony, very refined and 
intelligent birds." 

As he picked a small feather from the ground he re- 
marked: 

"Every feather, be it ever so small, is valuable. These 
birds never mate with their own brood, but the female 
selects hers out of a strange flock, living with it always. 
They never choose new mates and do not divorce. The 
reason is that the female proposes instead of the male. 
When ostriches are first hatched out they are drab. If 
females, they remain that color, but males change to 
black." 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 113 



SITTING BULL'S LOG CABIN. 

E. B. Wickham, ex-representative of the lower house in 
the first legislature of North Dakota, served four years 
as government scout. He was A r ested with authority by 
the United States government to remove this cabin and 
transfer it to "Midway." 

Every timber was marked, so they were replaced pre- 
cisely as when Sitting Bull occupied it. A bullet hole was 
seen through the floor, near the door through which Sit- 
ting Bull tried to escape when placed under arrest. "Pis 
said the bullet which passed through the floor killed him. 
But presiding pompously in his place was the demon 
"Rain-in-the-Face," who cut out the heart and drank the 
blood of noble Tom Custer, at the same time killing daring, 
dashing, brave Gen. Custer, with the help of his band of 
howling savages, who sacrificed Calhoun, and a large 
number of brave companions, many of whom belonged to 
Michigan. "Rain-in-the-Face" hated Tom Custer because 
he captured and kept him in the guard house one year. 
He vowed if he ever escaped he'd kill Custer. 

It was a common thing to hear spectators apply epithets 
of "villain," "scoundrel," etc., to the savage, and exclaim, 
"I'm glad you're maimed for life, and will never walk 
again without a crutch, and that you're situated so the op- 
portunity will never again be presented for you to take 
the lives of such as the Custers, and his brave army." 

The walls of the cabin were hung with robes and skins ; 
upon which were painted representations of historic mas- 
sacres, big hunts, etc. There were cruel Indian clubs, 
made of large smooth stones twisted tightly in leather 
thongs; scalps of Indians and whites daubed with paint, 
one the fair curly hair of a child; sacks of dried insects 
and worms, which were worn as charms to ward off evil 
spirits and sickness. Rain-in-the-Face, fearful of losing 
his power over his tribe, originated the "sun dance," and 
was the first to practice it. He caused slits to be cut 
through the skin of his back. Twisted strips of hide 
were drawn through and he was then lifted clear from the 
ground and tied by these raw hides to the limb of a tree, 
hanging thus one entire day and night. Finally two buf- 
falo heads, which are very heavy, were attached to him to 
weight him down, which broke the skin and freed him. 



114 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

All this time he never flinched, for he wanted to show his 
tribe how brave he was. The ghost dance was originated 
by Sitting Bull, to insure his power with the tribe. He 
played upon their superstition, expecting in this manner 
to gain complete control over them, which he feared he 
would lose. So to impress them thoroughly with his 
greatness and power, he originated the ghost dance, but 
did not allow his tribe to know it, as 'twas done to create 
confidence in his magic power. 

A long pole was planted in the ground, and a few feet 
from and around this pole was dug a deep trench. Then 
blankets were fastened from the top of the pole and pinned 
tightly into the ground, completely covering a fire built in 
the trench, in which stones were thrown. A young In- 
dian was then placed in the tent. Sitting Bull next went 
inside with buckets of water, which he poured upon the 
heated stones (before this he had given the boy a vile de- 
coction, to deaden his senses), and hastened out, tightly 
closing the tent. The boy being sweated until greatly 
weakened, was then allowed to come out before Sitting 
Bull. The chief, in a mystical manner, then waved a 
stick over him, causing him in his weakness and fright- 
ened condition to obey a natural law of undue influence. 
Under it this boy did the first ghost dance, in which dread- 
ful orgies so many tribes afterwards joined. Sitting Bull 
was killed by Henry Bullhead, first lieutenant of Indian 
police. 

Mr. Wickham said: "Curly, the Crow, who came with 
me, has broken his engagement. The other night he re- 
ceived word that his squaw had eloped. I refused to let 
him go home, and told him I would not pay him what I 
owed him, then said I would raise his wages if he'd re- 
main. But this was no temptation to Curly, who said, 
"Squaw go another man, me no show, me know, west," 
and he started on a bee line afoot, in that direction. 

"I should like you to have seen Curly. He was always 
a friendly Indian. When I was government scout Curly 
and I were stationed in a village numbering two hundred 
inhabitants. The Indians burned the settlement and 
killed many, took all of their provisions, and drove away 
their stock. This occurred in the dead of winter, but 
Curly and I walked one hundred and fifty miles, hungry 
and nearly freezing, after supplies." 

Special mention may be found of these two in Gen. 
Terry's report to the War Department. Chris. Nordstrum, 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 115- 

another scout, related how he, with six others, were pros- 
pecting for gold on Clarke Fork, where it empties into the 
Yellowstone. "We ran out of provisions, so started to the 
Crow agency for more. We ran into a cavalry detach- 
ment and were forced into the service as scouts under 
Gen. Custer, because we knew the lay of the land." 

Chris paid a glowing tribute to Gen. and Mrs. Custer. 
Of the General he said: 

"When going into action it was never 'Go, boys/ but 
dashing ahead of them, he always said, 'Come boys.' He 
was uniformly kind to all. Less stern with privates than 
with officers, yet he was rigid in his exercise of discipline. 
The boys revered and loved Mrs. Custer, who was like a 
mother to them, sick or well. Gentle and cheery, she 
was like a ray of sunshine in our soldier life. Many a 
poor fellow she saved from the guard house and loss of 
three months' pay, for sympathetically she would state 
reasons to the General in a plea which often changed the 
decree. 

"One day the General was taking a n'ap on the banks of 
the Yellowstone, while the bugler was on watch. Some 
Indians surprised them. The General and the guard took 
to their horses, chasing them for two miles, when sud- 
denly they were surprised by seven hundred warriors, 
who tried to cut them off from the main command. By a 
miracle they escaped, the Indians chasing them into camp, 
yelling and shooting constantly. They then set fire to 
the wild rye grass, hoping to burn the soldiers out. But 
the command retreated to a bushy place, and the Indians^ 
knowing that one man hid in a bush is as good as ten in 
sight, were careful not to venture nearer. 

"Soon hot shot rained from the bushes upon the Indians, 
killing and scattering them. After Custer's death six of 
us were prospecting and were again pressed into the ser- 
vice, under the command of Gen. Crooke. At this time 
two thousand Indians, squaws and children, then a peace- 
able tribe, were driven out of Idaho. When the whites 
began to settle in the southwestern part of that State 
they sent a petition to the government asking that this 
Indian reservation be cut down ; in plain English it meant 
so we can steal the land. Every man who signed the peti- 
tion, this tribe killed." 

At this time Chris and his companions were transferred 
under the command of Gen. Howard, and started from the 
Pacific slope to find these Indians, who were going 



116 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

through the country robbing and killing everyone — even 
the stock — burning buildings, and sparing no one. Two 
scouts started out to find where the Indians were. On 
their not returning, Chris and another scout, accompanied 
by a squad of soldiers, were sent in search of them. They 
nearly ran into the camp of the Idaho Indians, who had 
prepared themselves for action, and had driven squaws 
and children into a canon for safety. A detachment was 
sent back to inform Gen. Howard. In the meantime Chris 
and the soldiers found their comrades, who had started 
out the night before. One was dead, the other yet living, 
with bullet wounds through his liver, arm, and side of 
the head. 

Chris, calling him by name, said: 

"Poor Boke, how is it?" 

In gasps the poor fellow replied: 

"The fiends left us both for dead. I have crawled to 
the creek and back to my hiding place many times 
through the night, I was so thirsty and suffered so." 

Blankets were fastened to poles and swung between 
two horses. Tenderly they laid him in, and after hurriedly 
burying his companion, Chris returned to the main com- 
mand, and they started for the agency. When nearly 
there, the Indians attacked and massacred the whole 
party, making sure of the man whom they thought they 
had killed the night before, by cutting off his head. 

Then was fought the battle of Stinking Water by Gen. 
Howard, Gen Miles and their commands, Gen. Miles re- 
ceiving the honor of finally subduing and capturing them. 
Later the Government returned the Indians to their old 
reservation. Chris ended his remarks by saying: 

"A real good Indian is always a dead one." 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 117 



AN EVENING ON MIDWAY. 

A party of gentlemen from Michigan, of what city the 
scribe, being willing to give fair play, will not mention, 
declared on leaving the Michigan building that they 
would not be seen stopping anywhere in Midway, 
unless it was in the Libby Glass Works, or the Burnese 
Alps. On the way Mr. S. stopped to listen to the phono- 
graph under the aqueduct play "I Have Worked Ten 
Hours This Day." (This was one thing he insisted upon 
doing, never passing without dropping a nickel in the 
slot and hearing this composition, saying it was his senti- 
ments.) While he listened, he exclaimed: "Boys, you 

said among yourselves" and the scribe heard it — 

"L. S. thinks we've not even cut our eye teeth, and that 
we'll be good and walk the length of Midway, and keep 
out of all naughty places." Now, in this crowd were dig- 
nified and professional men, and on that account 'twould 
not be right to mention them in a way that would cause 
them to be recognized. There were Mr. S. senior, Mr. S. 
junior, Mr. W., Mr. B., Mr. H., Mr. C, Mr. P., Mr. D. and 
Mr. D. The rest of the party aided and abetted in every 
way possible, what these men proposed or did, and this 
night on the Midway is a fair and honest example of how 
they forgot home, country, yes, everything. The explana- 
tion why will be told later. 

The Mr. P., the nice little man, said: "We might as 
well make Rome howl for once." 

"Yes," said Mr. S. senior, "I insist upon visiting the 
Congress of Beauty." 

Mr. W. remonstrated, saying, "There may be beauty 
there, but nothing good." 

"Stop your preaching," said Mr. H., and they passed in 
to look on women of all nations. On seeing the beautiful 
Fatima, Mr. W. was the first to drop his "go to meeting" 
look, and "as if to the manor born," he cocked his hat on 
one side, pushed a cigar half into his mouth, thrust his 
hands deep into his pockets, and stared at her, "deaf and 
dumb" to the entreaties of the party to come on. Fatima 
called him a "cute young fellow," and soon mischief 
reigned and made victims of all the rest. The Mr. D.'s, 
on being told by an interpreter that the smiling Fatima 
had called them "lovely boys," sighed and looked, while 



118 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

she looked and smiled. As the party passed out the 
Scotch bag-pipe player, large, tall, and handsome, strutted 
back and forth, dressed in his Highland plaid, and Scotch 
cap, with his legs bare half to the knees, playing and 
puffing his cheeks out like two red apples. On "The 
Campbells are coming," quiet Mr. O. sung out : 

"A camel is coming !" 

"No," said Mr. B. "We will place the animal which 
brays in place of the camel." 

The two Mr. D.'s insisted that the Aztecs who were said 
to have lived one thousand years ago, and were yet living, 
and were working on the same pieces of work they worked 
on then, were all right They passed inside while the rest 
waited with a look of enthusiasm savoring of revenge. 
As they reappeared, they extolled the wonders to be seen, 
until the others passed in, to see nothing but a squaw 
weaving in the old primitive way. They kooked wearily at 
each other, and on coming out found the Mr. D.'s eating 
"bum-bum" candy and cutting "pigeon wings" about a 
red blanketed squaw with a dirty yelling papoose, tied 
upon her back. They were hilarious as boys over cheat- 
ing the rest into going in to see what was (as they knew) 
a fake. 

Mr. B. rushed a combination of French and German 
at a black man dressed to represent an Arab, who replied 
in bad English : "All right, but you go dive off the coast 
of Nova Scotia, and bring up an anchor. You will need 
it when I am through with you." 

The Arab succeeded admirably in making the Mr. D.'s 
walk "turkey fashion." They were all chased about by 
him until a guard authoritatively said he would call the 
patrol for all of them if they did not stop. 

"Go chase yourself," said Mr. H., as he made a bee-line 
for the Moorish theater, where a girl in spangles and red 
pounded a big bass drum, calling: "Come, come; every- 
body come; you be glad; you never see again so best a 
show. Dayncing gales upstairs; they be waiting to 
daynce for you. You see a show you glad." 

Every one of these boys on that night were ringleaders 
in mischief, and in concert, hands on shoulders, taking 
the "lock step," they yelled, "Forward, march," and passed 
in to see the naughty Nautch dance. From here they 
passed through the "Hall of Illusions," by the Hungarian 
Band, who sang as they played: 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 119 

The world, the world is large and round, 
It's made up nearly of water and ground; 
Stay, stay ; you have nothing to fear, 
For all you'll get here is beer, beer, beer. 

As they passed out of the "Tunnel" all were singing: 
"The Midway Plaisance, the Midway Plaisance. Where 
you have fun is on the Midway Plaisance." Mr. H. stopped 
to fence with a native who hung on to his short swords, 
shaking his head and saying, "You drunk and you be 
d— n." 

It was a lovely clear night, the stars twinkled like dia- 
monds, and the moonlight fairly outrivaled the many 
lights of electricity; but all this received no consideration 
from the boys. They raised umbrellas and swaggered 
along, puffing on unlighted cigars. They were in that 
beatific state of happiness which mostly aifected every 
one who patronized Midway at night. 

"Nicey, freshy, bum-bum candy. Ah-ae-ah-ae-ohe. Hot, 
hot, hot, paney cakey, good," yelled a fat greasy woman 
and the dirty Turk who presided over these palatable ar- 
ticles. At least it was claimed they were. 

Mr. P. bought a pair of castanets, and began practicing 
the Turkish dance. A native joined him, humming bar- 
barous notes and playing on a tom-tom. The boys 'were 
enthusiastic over the refined art of Mr. P., and draped a 
Persian sash of many colors about him. Then more grace- 
ful than ever he writhed and humped about, and threw 
from his dark eyes bewitching and enticing glances of 
languishing loveliness and abandonment. 

The boys yelled "Come off, where are the brick-bats?" 
"No bouquets," said he; "den I stops de show." 

Next they went into the streets of Cairo. Soon they 
were astride of donkeys and camels, tearing down the 
streets, their yells outrivalling all the cat-calls and yowls 
of the place. It was about' twelve o'clock when the Egyp- 
tian theater was out and the dancing girls of the Nile 
modestly played "leap frog." The fat man of the party, 
Mr. M., insisted he would be welcome to play this refined 
game with the "dark beauties." He made one vain at- 
tempt to do so and, nearly sobered, he frantically ran be- 
hind the boys, who formed in line, clasping hands, which 
made a breast-work of mighty poor material under the 
circumstances. 



120 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

Mr. M. cowered behind his entrenchment, and yelled, 
"Be brave, boys; don't be licked out by nigger women." 

Quicker than it can be read, thirty angry dancers ran 
into them like "the rush of a mighty wind,' 7 causing them 
"to fall like chaff before the reaper." When guards had 
dispersed the natives, who had turned out to assist the 
dancers in the would-be massacre, those boys were ruined, 
in appearance at least. One of them tragically recited: 

"From out the ashes of a ruined past, 
There comes an existence too dreadful to last. 
We are ragged, worn, and terribly battered, 
In pain and tears this much it has mattered 
That if ever the news should go back to our city, 
We'd never receive one darned bit of pity; 
We'd be raggled and shaggled the rest of our lives 
By our darling sweethearts, or our dear loving 



O. and W., who recovered the soonest from the "ruined 
nast," went and engaged a chair boy to roll the fat man, 
who said he was a physical wreck from the "ashes of the 
past." As he was trundled through the Cairo street gate, 
Mr. H. called out, "Hear ye, hear ye, we are now taking 
the ossified man to the Parisian theater, where he will be 
placed on exhibition. You now may see this curiosity 
free, but 'twill cost you an elegant quarter to see him 
when he is placed behind the scenes." 

A Columbian guard authoritatively reminded him he 
was too noisy. 

"O, get out," says Mr. H. 

The fat man got out of his chair as best he could, and 
managed to walk by hanging on the side of it with both 
hands. Still the irrepressible Mr. H. continued his free 
advertising. "Hear ye, hear ye. Everybody bring your 
halt, maimed and blind to the World's Fair, and have 
them walk and see, on hearing the voice of or seeing a 
Columbian guard." 

They passed into the Parisian theater and came out 
with faces full of amazement, regret, and of curious specu- 
lation and trepidation. Their poet remarked : "This is the 
last straw, and they might as well die as live." He was 
troubled over an experience which had occurred in the 
early part of the evening when he was so salubriously full 
of joy and loving goodness as to try and dispense with a 




MR. H. ADVERTISING THE OSSIFIED MAN. 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 



121 



portion of it. He succeeded in wheeling a lady for quite 
a distance, who pleasantly said she did not object to his 
resting the chair boy. He was very complimentary and 
attentive to her; did not see as sometimes he saw, but on 
looking closely into her roguish face, he staggered away, 
weak and weary, muttering, "One of my wife's intimate 
friends. I'm a dead man." 

The party missed all trains to the city that night, and 
along in the small hours came "home to Michigan," and 
lay on her couches "in state" until morning. The scribe 
feels sure there is not a man in Michigan or the whole 
world, who for a moment recognizes "such a night" on 
"Midway." 



122 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

A LETTER TO THE SCRIBE. 

Dear World's Fair Friend: 

Now that I am rested I truly wish I were with you and 
other acquaintances to take the Intramural Railway for 
our usual morning ride. I am amazed, dazzled and al- 
most hysterical as I think of the astonishing opportunity 
which is being presented the visitors of the Fair, for the 
study of industry and art. The pleasure which accom- 
panies it cannot be expressed in words, for at every turn 
there is presented to our vision subjects of infinite variety 
in the White City, built, as it were, in a day, the story of 
whose grandeur and glorious beauty can never be effaced 
from our memories, though we should live for centuries 
after. 

Your old-time bachelor friend has a secret to confide, 
and though fancy beckons him on to wander once more 
through the bewildering labyrinth of cross-roads and 
byways which were distinctively a feature of the Fair, and 
though there is a hunger gnawing in his heart for all of 
this, I must confess to a tantalizing sensation which has 
created a certain longing in my foolish brain to again 
meet the beautiful young lady, Miss H., of Wisconsin: 

With eyes of blue, 
And heart so true, 
Her hair a mass of gold. 

What a lovely smile she had! I long to hear her silvery 
laugh once more. Cupid has accomplished his most 
artistic work upon me. I only hope he has filled her heart 
as full of love's quivers for me. Her stay at the Fair had 
a sad and sudden ending. Her last best earthly friend 
(her father) passed into a better clime, leaving her an 
orphan; and so young, too. I know without asking you 
that I have your sympathy and best wishes for success in 
winning the sweetest, best girl that ever lived; for as you 
read these lines I shall have arrived in Racine and have 
told her all. Something seems to tell me that her dear 
answer will be "Yes." Think of the pleasant evenings 
we all passed together on the porch of the Wisconsin 
building and looked across the lagoon upon the Brazilian 
building gleaming with electricity from dome to base- 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 123 

ment, or watched the foliage of the trees turned by the aid 
of electricity into dancing shadows upon the classic Art 
palace. The reception given in the Indiana building by 
Chief Executive Havens, his wife and daughters, was an- 
other delightful treat, as were many other occasions of a 
like nature held in the grandly furnished parlors of other 
buildings. From these we wandered through spacious 
rooms gloriously lighted up while music from piano and 
harp tinkled forth from adjoining rooms, perhaps to sud- 
denly swell into a loud burst of melody from, the full 
orchestra; then it played a lower accompaniment to a 
rich-voiced soprano, which sang these appropriate words: 

"What is this secret spell around me stealing? 
The evening air is faint with magic power; 
And shadows fall upon my soul revealing 
The meaning of this memory-laden hour." 

I return to the commonplace, and perhaps uninterest- 
ing, but you know on the evening of the reception held in 
the Indiana building, by invitation we remained and vis- 
ited the host, his charming wife and lovely daughters; it 
seemed that it was the most superb night we had ever 
seen. The moon hung like a silver ball in an Italian 
colored sky of blue, and, with myriads of stars, reflected 
into Lake Michigan. Will you ever forget that guard 
who took advantage of his surroundings and imbibed too 
much of what was left in the punch bowl, and made him- 
self ridiculous by 'railing for Indianer and "Benny's build- 
in' ?" How tragically on that evening, too, did that 
queenly beauty from New York tell ghost stories until she 
caused our hair to rise on end and to draw ourselves 
nearer together and shiver as she graphically pictured the 
headless horses galloping madly around the ghost- 
haunted house of the Van Rensselaers. When she gave 
the dying groans like those which were so often heard in 
the vault-like cellar, out of which were seen floating white 
spirits "hidin', peekin' and sneakm'," we really seemed 
to smell a damp, musty, vault-like odor. She played upon 
our senses, looking like a fair spirit, walking and pointing 
her finger toward that handsome young commissioner 
from Ohio, who had curling brown hair and great brown 
eyes. He stared at her, seemingly hypnotized by both 
her beauty and rare art of story-telling; and as she rushed 
toward him and screamed with horror impressed upon 
her countenance, he tipped with his chair and fell back- 



124 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

ward upon the floor, turning a yellowish white. The 
shock was so great that it frightened him into having the 
jaundice for six weeks. At least, he knows, and so do we, 
that he had it. In many respects the Florida building 
was interesting, but we would fain forget the fright and 
suffering which apparently Avas felt by those helpless and 
imprisoned little chameleons which were sold to passers- 
by, who little thought of the fact, that in September and 
October, when it became colder than where they came 
from, that they would freeze and die. You remember that 
in the month last named, Mr. B. bought one and fastened 
it by the tiny gold chain which was attached to a gold 
collar about its neck to the lapel of his coat. He was a 
humane and thoughtful gentleman, for he noticed the lit- 
tle creature was so numb with cold that it could not cling 
to his clothing; so he held the half -frozen little pet (as the 
Southerners call them) between the palms of his hands 
to give it warmth, but it died, as did thousands of them 
under less favorable circumstances. This occurred in the 
Iowa building while we were listening to selections given 
by their splendid State band. On that day for the first time 
they gave "Sounds from the Midway," composed by the 
leader. They roared like Hagenbeek's lions and imitated 
the barbarous music of the torn torn and the Ah — Eh — 
Oh — , yelling "Hotty, nicey, goody, freshy, bum bum 
candy." 

Iowa's corn palace room was an attractive fea- 
ture of the Fair. Her exhibit was fine in all depart- 
ments. Miss Miller, the National Commissioner, was a 
lovely lady. I enjoyed my short stay in this building very 
much. Mrs. M. was old enough to have been my mother; 
nevertheless she was a charming lady, and very intelligent, 
too. I am sorry you did not go with us through "Liberal 
Arts." Our time was too limited to do it well, or any part 
of the Fair; and so I shall ever have a confused remem- 
brance of what I saw there. It is hardly to be wondered 
at when we remember that this building was large enough 
to have placed every building of the Centennial inside of 
it A portion of the upper floor of "Liberal Arts" was de- 
voted to colleges, schools and literature. The most or- 
derly and interesting department to me was that of the 
Century Magazine, where we found a strip of hollow wood 
in which George Kennan hid his manuscript while in 
Siberia. Whether he lectures or writes about the suffer- 
ings of prisoners there he certainly possesses the art of 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 125 

delineating successfully with both tongue and pen the 
pangs of hunger of the exiled prisoners. Their every pain, 
and the brutal beatings received at the hands of inhuman 
guards, in far-off Siberia is keenly sensed by his auditors. 
Would that there were more noble, daring men like Ken- 
nan, whose every heart-beat is filled with love toward 
suffering humanity wherever found. He believes in fight- 
ing for those who are so unfortunate as to be placed where 
they suffer misery through the injustice of destiny. You 
remember reading of the Russian lady who was flogged, 
being given one hundred stripes by a brutal guard. 
Strange, wasn't it, that she should have died from its 
effects. Excuse the sarcasm. Those who read of the 
affair, and of the circumstances connected with it, can 
never forget it. When outrages like this occur it seems 
that we expect the good people of the world to rise en- * 
masse against such infamous proceedings; but while they 
express indignation in a conservative sort of way, the idea 
remains with us that they are half- willing to permit such 
atrocities. Centering the upper floors of "Liberal Arts" 
was the Stevens Silk Exhibit. It was the neatest and 
most artistic display made in this building. Every known 
color, and colors undreamed of, were arranged in tasteful 
designs of rainbows, fans, anchors and many other designs 
arranged in dazzling colors. When ladies visit Chicago 
they should not fail to visit "The Stevens Silk House," 
for I know that they keep for sale the most reliable silk 
goods; and the first dress I purchase will be purchased 
there. Do not jump at the conclusion that I am 
going to don feminine attire, because of the "new woman," 
for I expect she will continue to wear all of her attractive 
and lovely furnishings as usual. Without further ex- 
planation of whom is to wear the dress, as I know it is 
unnecessary to explain, for as you read this your thoughts 
have reverted to Racine, where you expect me to be ac- 
cording to my promise made to you in the first part of this 
letter, and for the moment I am soaring on the pinions 
of an exalted imagination, and am not only purchasing 
from the Stevens Silk House one dress, but dozens of them, 
for her whom fancy pictures to me dressed first in one and 
then another silken robe; until (alas I have awakened from 
my dream of bliss, I will endeavor to cease writing of 
what at present constitutes a part of my life.) The fact 
that I am in the blissful state of love may possibly ac- 
count for my rambling epistle written to you. In the 



126 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

"Anthropological Building," as well as in the "Lib- 
eral Arts," we looked upon the first rude draw- 
ings and hieroglyphics of prehistoric people, lead- 
ing us, step by step, through the ages into noble 
art and literature. Rudely constructed lyres and 
other musical instruments carried us in fancy back 
to again progress through the dim ages into the glor- 
ious present, to see perfected musical instruments and 
music's grand literature. We cannot doubt the progres- 
sion of the human race at present, or in the future, and 
judging from all that has been accomplished in the past 
and present, what will have been the development of the 
human intellect one hundred years hence. The 
people of this swift and progressive age have a 
right to assert that it is a brilliant outlook, and 
that nothing which we may expect either in science or 
philosophy seems impossible or improbable; and that 
much will come about quickly, and in the near future, too, 
from the fact that society has never receded from civiliza- 
tion. Steadily and under favorable conditions it advances 
so rapidly that those who keep up with the procession 
are running, and there is no time for playing by the way- 
side. If prehistoric people could be placed in the midst 
of modern improvements and look upon their superiors 
of to-day possibly the consequences would have created 
a reaction which would have been disastrous to them. 
The wonders to be seen in our present civilization would 
perhaps have filled their minds with superstitious dread, 
and 'tis likely they would continue to sew with porcupine 
quills or thorns for needles, and insist upon living in the 
rude old way, rather than go near the "New Home" sew- 
ing machine, the "White," "Domestic," and hundreds of 
other kinds doing perfect and artistic work. The in- 
tricacy and beauty of these machines and the work done 
by them perhaps would have frightened rather than have 
interested or pleased them. My thoughts fly here, there 
and everywhere; and are they not pardonable as we re- 
member that a letter written upon the World's Fair and 
"the fair" would naturally touch upon topics of infinite 
variety and interest? Now my thoughts revert to the 
Dedicatory Columbian ball, which was given at the Audi- 
torium. Did not Mrs. Potter Palmer look every inch a 
beautiful queen, as in state she sat with the representa- 
tives of the world, and with them welcomed dignitaries 
of the Fair and other prominent people; as did also Mrs. 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 127 

Gen. Logan, who sat next to her, her snowy hair giving 
an added charm to her yet yonng face, while she was very 
pleasing in pink silk, causing her on that evening to look 
so different than she does in her conventional mourning. 
Mgr. Satolli, representative of the Pope in America, and 
Cardinal Gibbons, of Baltimore, sat next to these queenly- 
appearing women. Satolli wore a red robe. Over this 
hung a long, heavy gold chain and cross. The Cardinal 
wore a purple robe, and both wore skull caps to match 
their robes. As we looked about the raised circular plat- 
form upon which diplomats representing their different 
countries of the world were seated, and upon richly 
dressed ladies of noble birth sitting beside them, and then 
looked upon the military dress of generals and officers of 
all countries, and upon the fashion and beauty of hun- 
dreds of ladies laden with jewels, there was an agreeable 
sense of stately etiquette which made it easy to imagine 
ourselves in the court of Queen Elizabeth, for stately, 
beautiful women and noble-looking men of commanding 
appearance lent reality to the scene. Mrs. Yerkes, of New 
York, wore the most unique diamond waist trimming I 
think we have ever seen. A large diamond star was fast- 
ened on the left shoulder. Leading from this, about the 
low-cut bodice of her light blue silk gown, was a line of 
diamonds in grape leaves, between the leaves hung 
bunches of diamonds in grape design; and hanging from 
the right shoulder was a large diamond ornament of 
grapes. She is a lovely blonde, and queens it in one of the 
most beautiful homes in New York. 

Twenty thousand dollars, wasn't it, that Mr. Y. paid 
for the large yellow diamond in Tiffany's exhibit, which 
lighted up the magnificent display of necklaces, bracelets, 
brooches and other jewels, throwing their millions of 
changing lights. This large diamond, after the Fair, will 
center a tiara of smaller ones for Mrs. Yerkes. 

The Italian Department, filled with fine sculpture and 
Florentine jewelry, was a large and attractive display. 
? Tis said they will return to Italy rich from the sales made 
in their many departments of the Fair. 

In Austria the fine Bohemian crystal, set with precious 
gems, was conceded to be the finest exhibit of its kind 
there. As you were not with us that day, and I had no op- 
portunity to tell you about it before leaving, I take this 
opportunity to do so. We visited the south end of the 
grounds quite thoroughly, stopping in the Indian school, 



128 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

of Carlisle, Pa., where were given recitations and a fine 
concert; but a splendid idea of what is the training of 
Indian pupils was given in the fine appearance made in 
the line of march in the Columbian procession of 1892. 
How people cheered them. The farming industries were 
represented by boys who carried rake handles trimmed 
with vegetables and fruits of all kinds; then on poles 
were carried boots and shoes. In the same manner came 
harness and blanket makers representing their trades. 
Lastly students with books and slate. Of course, you 
know all about this, and that on the day before occurred 
the first great meeting of the Lady Managers of the whole 
world, this very interesting gathering being held at Music 
Hall. 

Mrs. Potter Palmer presided gracefully and was kindly 
towards all. Though we heard but a few words from 
Lady Somerset, of England, we felt repaid for going. She 
said that "women had led the world in many forward 
movements, and the great demonstration at Chicago was 
bringing out the fact that woman was fast coming to the 
front to take her place beside man. I am proud of the 
prominent position given Mrs. President Palmer; and the 
immense, but patriotic crowds to be seen everywhere in 
this great city demonstrates the fact that a democratic 
form of government is the most desirable one; such a 
gathering of good-natured patriotic people is a high com- 
pliment to our present civilization." 

How tired you must be of me, yet I wish in fancy to wan- 
der once more through the "Art Building" and some other 
places before bidding you good-by. I will not speak of the 
paintings, but of that "chromo" of a guard, whose head 
swelled in proportion as his thoughts enlarged upon the 
authority vested in him. You remember, while in "Ger- 
many" that I asked him which way was east, and that he 
chugged out his chin, stretched out his neck, took on a 
pugilistic air, shook his first under my nose, replying: 

"Carry a compass, durn yer, and ye'll know without 
troubling a gentleman like meself." 

Though I am a man and expected, yes, fully intended 
to have resented the matter, the chance was not given me, 
as you already know. Didn't Fanny's eyes flash as the 
little woman confronted the six-foot bully and said: 

"If I was a man, I'd trounce you within an inch of your 
life. There are many things of which you have no knowl- 
edge; good manners for one thing, directions for an- 
other." 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 129 

He began to edge away. 

"Oh, but I am not through. You shame whoever brought 
you up, for 'tis likely they taught you good manners, but 
you're not to blame for not having space in your brains 
for the cultivation of them. I'll try and carry your cap 
number in my massive brain, and use my most fetching 
influence in having you transferred to your native occupa- 
tion of bushwhacking. It's a pity for such extraordinary 
talents to be wasted and meet with no appreciation, and 
we presume that the World's Fair people will bid you 
farewell in the same spirit as did Pope in the opening- 
lines of his 'Farewell to Bath,' guard being put in the 
place of town, when you're transferred to the plains, where 
you properly belong." 

In dreams I stand on the bridge leading to "Sweden" 
and look down upon the water of the lagoon and see fiery 
wheat fields appear, and passing through them are boats 
decorated with Japanese lanterns. Xext follow rafts on 
which Indians are dancing; then a long line of electric 
launches, brilliant with many colored lights; then gon- 
dolas, leaving in their Avake long lines of beautiful colors 
in the water. 

I hear the bombs burst over the lake and see chains of 
many colored stars, then set pieces of state and world 
buildings, and fiery pictures, which are emblematic of 
their history. Methinks that again I am gazing upon the 
Harp of Erin, suspended in mid-air; just back of it the 
grand peristyle and many designs in other places which 
I must not take time to speak of. 

Then I think of the travelingmen's celebration, which 
occurred, too, while I was there. These bright, genial, 
aggressive business men are possessed of some of the best 
brains of our nation in their particular line of business. 
They are possessed of keen enterprise, knowledge and in- 
formation which comes from mind rubbing against mind. 
And they improve their opportunities of producing a keen- 
brained business faculty, which gives to the commercial 
world broad ideas, for the extension of trade. To them 
surely belongs the honor of extending, broadening and 
building up the vast commercial interests of the world. 

The Eussian Government has forbidden Madame Mod- 
jeska to play in Poland because of her lecture delivered 
before the "Woman's Congress" on the "Oppression of 
the Poles." She said there would have been a greater 
number of Polish women there to have spoken for Poland 



130 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

but for the Russian Government; that there would have 
been more documents from Polish women if it had not 
been for the scrutiny of the mails by that government. 
She said the Polish women Jonged for and loved liberty, 
which can only come to Poland with her restoration of 
national powder. 

Wasn't that guard mistaken when he said the large 
"Krupp Gun" held a torpedo filled with fourteen hundred 
pounds of ammunition; and that when it was shot from 
the gun it sped nine miles, and then would plow through 
a steel wall several feet thick? 

The dairy exhibits were attractive. Butter was made 
into violets, roses and other flowers in their natural col- 
ors. Was it not in Arkansas where the butter statuary 
was made? 

Near the "Krupp Building" were given diving exhibi- 
tions by a man whose first name was "xllbert." Do you 
know his last name? There timorous ones learned to 
swim. On that day some boys nailed together rafts made 
of boards, which they pushed about and posed upon them 
as "living pictures," saluting each other with nautical 
terms such as "get to larboard," "over on to the poop end 
of your ship," etc. Often some of the South Sea Islanders 
joined them, diving for silver thrown in the water by the 
spectators, and they never failed to bring it up. In the 
most friendly way imaginable these natives warbled 
"Yankee Doodle" and "Ta-ra-boom-de-ay," which to them 
was an open sesame into this metropolitan-like society. 

You remember one day you and I passed by some tents 
pitched between here and "Agricultural," and how you, 
like a very descendant of Eve, peeked into a queer-shaped 
yellow and red striped one. A small boy joined you in 
your investigations, and tripping upon you, you both 
rolled down the slight embankment. He was a typical 
street arab, and yelled: 

"How many schooners has passed under your nose? 
Two have passed my port. Ye hain't mad a bit, are 
ye, ye jolly old 'ornan?" 

There was something very taking about the little waif 
as he strutted along with us, barefooted, his tatters of 
clothes flying to the breeze. Soon he pointed out some 
lemon peels in our path, asking, "Do you know what that 
means?" 

You said to him: "Yes, you want a peeling." 

"Naw, lemernade," said he, smacking his lips, and draw- 
ing his sleeve across the dirtiest face we had ever seen. 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 131 

Will you ever forget the compliments he shouted back 
after receiving the nickel, yelling: 

"Thank yer. Ye are an old man and old 'oman what 
are a brick. I'll hang on ter yer." And so he did, soon 
joining us walking to the terminal station, where we 
rested and looked upon time-pieces from every part of the 
world. In Chicago, it was 10 :15 a. m. ; in Buenos Ayres, 
it was 7 :03 p. m. The boy said : 

"It's near time to eat in both places. Ain't I hungry, 
though. I know some old man that don't like boys to go 
hungry." 

He received the necessary cash so as not to go hungry. 
I am half sorry I lectured the little fellow as I did by say- 
ing, "We did not enjoy being persecuted, by being called 
'old man' and 'brick.' " 

After the tragical manner of a typical stage villain he 
repeated : "I know yer meanin' ; needn't say 'nother word. 
It means skip, Greggy." Folding his arms, he rested his 
chin upon his breast and strode away, his rags fluttering 
in the breeze. Presently he returned and said, with a 
confidential, bravado-like air: "I'll meet yer here ter 
morrer, on this spot, at ten in the mornin'." How glad 
we are that we were lenient, and answered kindly : "All 
right, Greggy." Tears sprang to his eyes, and he tried to 
let us know how much he appreciated us. "Mebbe yer 
thinks I don't berlieve in prayin'? I duse, and I asks Him 
to bless yer fer bein' kind ter me to-day." Poor little waif. 
We never saw him again, for he was killed while trying to 
catch a ride on the street car belt line which ran to the 
city. 

(Note.) — The guard mentioned in the Art Palace was 
the only one under the United States military who com- 
mitted an offense during the Fair, and he was promptly 
discharged. This was a rare exception, for the guards 
were gentlemen, under strict military discipline, under 
the command of Capt.-Gen. Kice. The guards and chair- 
boys had much to contend with- sometimes it was of a 
pleasant nature, and, again, not. They were persecuted 
by flirtatious old women, who asked millions of useless 
questions like so many giddy girls. They bore up under 
these persecutions like "soldiers good and true." Some 
ladies came daily or weekly for the same chairboys to 
wheel them. In case the lady made her choice too pro- 
nounced, then the poor fellow was unmercifully chaffed by 
the others, who called him "her dearest one" and other 
pet names. 



132 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 



A DAY ON MIDWAY AND THE BATTLE OF 
SEBA3T0P0L. 

In the streets of Algeria we stopped to admire a tall, 
handsome native, calling "Algerian! Algerian! Algerian!" 
Swinging his wares in front of the passing crowd, he be- 
seechingly repeated the words just mentioned again and 
again, and the rest of what little English he knew, which 
was: "You come; cheapy buy." 

His companion was a persuasive salesman. He wore a 
fetching tall-crowned broad-rimmed hat trimmed with 
green ribbon and flowers, with here and there upon it a 
patch of yellow and blue material; its edges dropped far 
down over his shoulders, hiding much of his rain-bow robe. 
Most convenient was this hat, for when selling his mer- 
chandise to a fair customer its rim enveloped both of their 
faces. Blushing, she emerged from its protecting shade, 
but not until she had bought some souvenir through his 
fascinating persuasiveness. 

A pompous and portly couple were wheeled by a rather 
good-looking chairboy, who was evidently a friend, for 
their daughter walked beside him carefully protecting 
him, as well as herself, from the hot rays of the sun. When 
it occurred to her that one must go without its shade, she 
generously held it over him. They stopped to listen to the 
man advertising the "only and original camera obscura, 
direct from Eiffel Tower, Paris. Only five cents to climb 
the stairs built inside of the tree of wonders, and a glass 
of orange cider free." The parents excused the young peo- 
ple, who passed up the stairs and soon were standing in a 
very dark room, looking upon a revolving disk, so arranged 
as to reflect the streets of Midway, its buildings, people-, 
walking or riding in roller chairs pushed by chairboys. 
The wind carried flying bits of paper down the street, flags 
waved in the breeze and through windows or doors of the 
many theaters were seen Oriental girls shaking their tam- 
bourines and dancing. All this the young people told to 
the young lady's parents on their return from the tree; 
and that "the sleighride" was photographed so plainly as 
to recognize some of their acquaintances who were cheer- 
ing an accompaniment to the merry jingle of bells. As 
they swiftly rounded the corner it seemed that they must 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 133 

tip over and meet with a sudden death. So risky it seemed 
to the young lady and the rest of the party that they de- 
cided not to take the ride. They paused by an open door 
and looked into the building which contained the bright 
clean machinery which manufactured the ice for the 
sleighride. The proprietors of this building and machin- 
ery belonged to the firm of the De La Yergne Refrigerator 
Co., of New York. They gazed in wonder upon the Ferris 
Wheel; passed by the Austrian village, and many other 
attractions, then stopped to hear the advertising of the 
fakir, who stood in a high-built booth which fronted a 
high and securely-boarded space, toward which he pointed 
and talked impressively of the wild, dashing riders of the 
desert, begging all not to let slip by this grand and only 
opportunity to look upon the descendants of the children 
of Israel; exciting the fancy as he told of the wild dash of 
the Arabian steeds ridden like a dream by their Bedouin 
riders, who care for their beautiful, high-spirited horses 
as lovingly and kindly as though they were children. As 
the party returned from seeing this attractive feature, the 
old gentleman remarked that the racing was fuUy as ex- 
citing as is the description of the last part of the chariot 
race in Ben Hur, who lashed the horses on whom "no hand 
had ever been laid except in love." The only difference 
was, so he said, that the graceful, gentle animals of the 
Bedouins obeyed the slightest wish of their riders, who 
carried no whip, but talked to them as though they were 
persons, while the intelligent horses seemed to understand 
them, and showed their affection plainly toward their mas- 
ters by being perfectly obedient. 

All the fakirs of the many shows were professionals in 
their lines, possessing keen wit and using it successfully 
on the best brains which passed them. With oily persua- 
siveness did he of the Bedouin theater tell how the chil- 
dren of the desert live in tents ; how for only fifteen cents 
spectators would witness these people living their accus- 
tomed life of the desert, and that no one should miss see- 
ing the old Bedouin woman make unleavened bread. The 
crowd, influenced by his persuasive eloquence, hastened 
inside to see the old lady roll a large piece of dough with 
her hands, spatting it flat, then throwing it back and forth 
from hand to hand, causing it to flatten, grow round, large, 
and still larger. It was by this mode made very thin; 
then deftly she flipped it smoothly over an iron cover 
with a raised center — this over a fire in the ground — she 



134 SIX MONTHS AT THE WOELD'S FAIR. 

turned the wafer back and forth, it taking about one-half 
minute to bake it. Then it was broken into pieces by a 
Bedouin, who passed it to all who would eat it. The na- 
tives sat upon the ground, "Turk fashion," smoking their 
water pipes, sometimes stopping long enough to sing the 
Ah, E, Oh! and clapping their hands, thus keeping time 
with the women and children as they sang, clapped their 
hands and danced to the Bedouin song of the desert. Con- 
stantly the men smoked, preferring to do that rather than 
anything else, while the women were active in giving ex- 
amples of how their lives was lived in the desert. Their 
dances were the same Midway or Oriental school of danc- 
ing, only it was not on as pronounced a scale as some of 
them were. The prince of the tribe was engaged to be 
married to a little girl of their numbers; she was only thir- 
teen years old. He was handsome, and was possessed of 
such progressiveness as to conclude to remain for five 
years in America to master the English language, saying 
he would then go back to his country and serve as a guide 
to tourists. He said "the little girl must return to the des- 
ert with her parents, as I shall never marry." Finally he 
concluded he would never go back, but become an Ameri- 
can citizen. His command of English which he learned 
in three months' time astonished all who met him. He 
said: "Life in the desert has too much sameness for me." 
He was so desirous of gaining knowledge, and was natur- 
ally of an active mind, and being possessed of an aspiring 
nature, we doubt not he is meeting with all the success in 
gaining knowledge which he so earnestly wished for. 

In another apartment we found richly furnished and 
decorated rooms. These rooms were gained by going up 
steps into them, for we first stepped into a tiled court. 
Centering it was a fountain. The ceilings of these rooms 
were done in mosaics. The walls were hung with rich 
Persian drapings, and ranged about the edges of the 
rooms were elegant velvet crimson and blue low couches. 
These and cushions scattered here and there were heavily 
embroidered in gold. We seated ourselves, Turk fashion, 
and listened to a Bedouin lecture. He held out the Koran 
printed in 1500 from the original, which teachings, he said, 
"were with them hundreds of years before Christ. We had 
our Islam three thousand years before Him ; we think bet- 
ter of Christ than you who do not believe in Mohammedan- 
ism. Christ was the purest, best man that has ever lived. 
So deep is our respect for Him, we do not think God al- 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 135 

lowed him to be nailed to the cross and die, but instead 
•caused Him to return in person to heaven, and caused 
another man to be crucified in His place. He was more 
surely a Son of God than we, because He was perfect; but 
there is one God, Allah, and Mohammed, the prophet. 
Had I been taught your faith, 'tis natural I'd believe in it. 
Had you never know^n of any other than ours, you'd be- 
lieve that way, wouldn't you? The difference is this : I 
like custard pie, you like apple pie the best." 

The scribe attempts no apology for placing the speech 
as it was heard, and believes that the reader will feel that 
for a Mohammedan his language indicated that he was 
far from "denying Christ." 

In the Persian and Turkish booths were girdles of gold 
and silver, patterned in open work made by hand and set 
with jewels, also silver open-worked dishes set with them, 
and the finest collection of precious gems ever seen. Space 
is limited, and possibly 'twould not attract to give a 
lengthy account of the many articles sold in "Turkey." 
There was sandalwood from Damascus; bottled water 
from the river Jordan; ornaments made of shells picked up 
on its shores. A young, pretty Damascus matron, with 
her babe in arms, wandered about dressed in gay, flowing 
robes, wearing a high crown composed of silver coins. 
Hanging from it in long, heavy loops below her waist 
were chains of them. She was nearly enveloped in a large 
white covering thrown over her head extending to her 
feet. This dark little woman soon lost her rosy cheeks, 
grew thin, pale and ailing, all because she was very home- 
sick with the longing to return to Jerusalem. 

A fine-looking Turk called out from his booth: 
"Kis-me-et." 

Some Americans would say that he had a "picnic." He 
held in his hand a small brown cake of perfume called 
"Kis-me-et." His most earnest attempts to sell it were 
made upon the ladies. Some were greatly pleased over 
it, but few understanding why he said it as they hurried 
by. Audaciously earnest were his efforts to sell the ar- 
ticle, saying pleadingly "Kis-me-et," looking unutterable 
sentiment at them from his languishing dark eyes. Al- 
though some of the ladies' cheeks would flush and an ap- 
preciative smile was given the handsome native by them, 
yet some of them claimed to be very angry with him, and 
with disdain written upon their faces and elevating their 
heads as high as possible without doing injury to their 



136 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

spinal column, they moved majestically away, muttering: 
"Conceited, impudent Turk." A homely, middle-aged 
woman, who was not as bright as two new silver dollars, 
pursed up her lips to him and said: "You shall not be 
tortured another minute for want of one wee kiss. I'll 
kiss you fifty times if you will only stop asking every 
woman, young and old, who comes along to kiss you." Of 
course he did not understand a word she said, but a glim- 
mer of her meaning was given him as she threw her arms 
about his neck and imprinted with a loud smack upon his 
cheek a kiss. "There," said she, "I've kissed you for your 
mother, and hope it will last you a while." Immediately 
she moved on with the crowd. He dramatically stretched 
forth his arms and in the most beseeching tone of voice 
called to her, saying: "Come back! Come back and Kis- 
me-et." Outside of the Turkish Bazaar Building we found 
an aged fortune teller (an old man), who told every one 
(whose fortune he told) that he recognized their souls as 
being that of his brother, sister or some philosophers who 
had lived 3,000 years ago. He said our souls have always 
lived, and can never die. One day he told the fortune of 
a beautiful young lady. He kneeled before her and kissed 
the hem of her robe and prophesied that great and wonder- 
ful events would shape themselves into her life. He had 
discovered for about the ten thousandth time the beautiful 
soul of his sister; and the young lady, as well as many 
others, went out of his tent firmly convinced that their 
bodies were inhabited by the soul of some great person 
who had lived ages ago. 

Next we visited the Turkish theater, which was really 
Oriental. Their plays were all based upon the subject of 
love. And a lady one day remarked as she passed out of 
this place, "To be so sickeningly in love as was that young 
fellow, although it was told in the Arabic language, which 
I do not understand, it was so evident as to almost serve 
as an emetic to anyone who witnessed it." Their plays 
were founded upon Oriental life in the desert. In the 
first scene men sat outside of their tents spinning from 
distaffs yarn. Inside of the tent, on a pallet, lay a young- 
man sick with love for his cousin, whom his heartless 
father would not allow him to marry. After wailing out 
a Bedouin love song he seemed to nearly faint; then his 
father called in the magicians to cure him. They com- 
pelled the father to pay a round sum to each before re- 
peating their incantations, after which orgies they stated 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 137 

to his father that he'd not live if he did not marry his 
cousin. The frightened father consented and the young 
man bounded from his pallet, strong and well, singing 
joyously, clasping his hands in ecstacy and jabbering his 
"thanks awfully" to his sire. 

The bride walked in wearing sandals of wood, which 
raised her about one foot high from the floor. She wore a 
long illusion veil of red; was supported by her mother 
and some maidens. All this time the bridegroom was 
expressing his joy by taking fantastic steps in a dance of 
the Orient He squirmed about expressing his hilarity 
in a most interesting manner by creating malformations 
in his body as he hopped about, at the same time twisting 
himself into various postures, showing many peculiar, 
even questionable styles of dancing. As the dance prog- 
ressed there was not any improvement added to it ; on the 
contrary he made a worse appearance than when he first 
began to dance. It brought forth uncomplimentary re- 
marks of a suggestive nature from the amazed spectators ; 
and when a native gave the genuine nautch dance and 
caused every muscle of his body to quiver and evidently 
unjointed every bone in turn from their sockets the spec- 
tators grew really solicitous for him. One remarked to a 
friend that he feared the actor was having a spasm, pre- 
liminary to falling in a fit. His friend replied : "He does 
appear to be in agony, and those other professionals, too, 
are writhing about in apparent misery." Here are the 
instructions for learning the nautch dance: It is done by 
producing convulsive malformations of the body. These 
convulsions must follow in quick succession one after the 
other. This is all that is necessary to know in order to 
perform this dance. We do not wish to discourage the 
attempts of anyone to learn it, but it is the opinion of those 
who witnessed it that it is too complicated a dance to be 
learned by anyone but a born Turk. The music was pro- 
duced by two women and an old fellow (these composed the 
orchestra), and was suggestive to one's imagination of 
sights and sounds in hades. One of the women played 
upon a sort of dulcimer, which she held upon her lap; an- 
other played upon a tom-tom, which was a hollow piece 
of wood, shaped to look like a gourd. A skin was stretched 
over the open space, and this was pounded upon with the 
palms of the hands by the woman, who held the gourd-like 
stem of the instrument between her knees. The third 
member, the old Turk, played upon a violin with one string 



138 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

upon it — a "sonata." The violin was given him on his 
arrival in Midway, and he played upon it as though he had 
mastered all there was to be learned on this poor, old in- 
strument, which wailed forth strains drawn out by his 
bow which expostulated in vain against his bringing forth 
from it sounds which sounded worse than the "midnight 
music" which always causes boots, shoes, hairbrushes and 
other articles too numerous to mention, to automatically 
take upon themselves animation and vigorously fly 
through space from chamber windows, and as they whizz 
through the air they are accompanied by the usual edify- 
ing remarks and a generous supply of adjectives. The 
music of the Turkish orchestra did not give a variety of 
notes or tones, but their time beat all ; the audience used 
to call "time" and say it was too pronounced a part of the 
exhibition. In the midst of the din which it made there 
could be heard the monotonous voices of the priests dron- 
ing the marriage ceremony. At the same time the Da- 
mascus quadrille was danced by four girls whose convul- 
sive motions were materially aided by the high-pitched 
and well emphasized notes from the orchestra. Next 
Eosa, the star dancer of Constantinople, writhed and 
twisted about and ended her performance by whirling for 
half an hour. 

After luncheon at the Vienna bakery we walked away 
from the sweet strains played by the mandolin club. We 
passed the wheel, the Austrian village and passed out of 
the gate which took us into Cottage Grove avenue, where 
we boarded the cars to Sixtieth street to the "Battle of 
Sebastopol." We know of no better way of explaining 
this realistic scene than to give a brief synopsis of the 
Crimean war. The town and forts of Sebastopol were 
taken by the combined forces of England, France and 
Turkey. In the distance was the famous Malakoff tower. 
The stubborn defence and gallant storming of it was the 
spectacle of the evening. This represented one of the 
great events of history. 

First the gray-coated Russians made a sortie from the 
town, captured a spy and shot him; then came the roll of 
drums and the booming of guns in the distance, warning 
the defenders of Sebastopol to retreat from their wrest- 
ling, dancing and games, which they did to the strains of 
the Marseillaise; then approached the Highlanders, the 
red-coated Britishers, French Zouaves, the picturesque 
Turk, and feathered Sardinians, each in their turn playing 






SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR 139 

their national air. All were ready and eager for the fray. 
Generals gave orders to aides-de-camp, who carried them 
in haste from division to division; then occurred the re- 
view and bivouac, at which time excellent exhibitions of 
sword tricks were given. Suddenly was heard the call 
to arms, and then was begun the assault upon the tower. 
Soldiers swarmed up the steep heights with discharge of 
grape and canister. The Eussians mowed down the allied 
troops; everywhere was smoke and flame. Amid the rattle 
of musketry were to be heard shouts of the living and 
groans of the dying. A breach was made in the wall 
through which the Frenchmen dashed; battlements crum- 
bled away; explosion after explosion occurred, making 
the sky crimson-hued; then the Eussian eagle was hauled 
down and the tri-colors of the French floated over the 
Malakoff. These combined armies of the three countries, 
with dogged persistence and graphic reality, followed in 
detail one of the most remarkable events in the history of 
the world, for under the most appalling difficulties the 
Eussians prolonged the resistance into months and years. 
Battles were fought while it was in progress, which at any 
other time would have decided the fate of a nation. The 
battles of Alma, Balaklava and Inkerman rank with those 
of Marathon and Waterloo, which preceded them, and 
Vicksburg and Gettysburg, which followed them. 

The terrible majesty of this spectacle, reflecting grandly 
yet in horrible magnificence into the bay, seemed so real 
that with apprehension we doubted the stability of the 
very earth. Into the vaults of heaven burst hundreds of 
bombs in humid beauty, and glad we were that we did not 

.live at that time to witness these battles, when 12,700 men 
were slain. The rain of fire and burning castle walls was 
a vivid realization of what must have been the "burning 
of Moscow," 

On the next day as we passed down the streets of "Mid- 
way" we were surprised at the quietness. What was the 
matter with the fakirs and the show people? They seemed 
to have become dumb. Soon was discovered the reason 
of the stillness. On the night before the Exposition offi- 
cials had sent forth the edict, "No more loud noises on 

. 'Midway.' " So the fakirs attracted the attention of 
passers-by by whistling to them, as though they were call- 
ing a dog, at the same time tapping with a stick on a board 
upon which was printed: "We are not allowed to talk." 
"We are not dumb; we are under orders." Then, like a 



140 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

teacher in a country school, with pointer deftly poised, 
they marked from the top to the bottom these notices men- 
tioned, and more, too, beside the many attractions to be 
seen inside, stopping to "shoo" the people in like so many 
chickens. So much worse were the actions which they 
used to advertise than the noises, 'twas not but a few days 
before again it was allowed to be "Bedlam let loose." 

The German village was noted for its exquisite Dresden 
china and magnificent unset diamonds, but Jupiter de- 
fend us from wearing their large, fat, ugly-shaped jewelry; 
but may we never be defended from again hearing the 
grand music given by Germany's Imperial Band. In this 
village there was the old church and dwellings of the four- 
teenth century; beehives woven out of straw stood by the 
straw-thatched-roofed barn. There was the old feudal 
castle surrounded by water, growing out of it pond lilies 
and other flora. A drawbridge extended over the moat, 
which could be drawn up by aid of the stout chains in case 
of attack from the natives or explorers of "Midway." 

Next we wandered into the Libby Glass Works to watch 
them spin threads of glass, then weave a thread of glass, 
alternating it with a thread of silk, the warp being also of 
silk — into stout, durable but very expensive material, 
which was used in making screens, cushions, furniture 
coverings and lamp shades, much handpainting being put 
on all. The room where were found these beautiful ar- 
ticles was roped in by chains of glass; the walls and shelves 
on which was displayed their elegant cut glass threw them 
back to the vision in solid lines of mirrored reflections. 
On asking the price of lamp shades, and being informed 
they were from $175 apiece upwards, and some a little 
lower in price, we immediately retraced our steps into the 
German village and ordered fire cents' worth of clam 
chowder to restore our shattered nerves, which helped us 
to recover somewhat the shock we had received. 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 141 



THE COLD STORAGE FIRE. 

This building stood in the southwest part of the grounds, 
near Stony Island avenue. It was fitted with complete 
apparatus for making ice, and was a cold storage for sup- 
plies and restaurants. On the roof was a promenade 
with an observatory tower. 

We were watching the working of a model mine, which 
was situated at the left on entering "Midway," and listen- 
ing to a lecture on mining, by William East, of Colorado, 
when the fire bells rang and the department dashed by. 
We shall ever be thankful that we thought it a slight 
alarm, or, more likely, a false one. 

The smokestack running through the tower of wood- 
work, overheated it and caused the frightful catastrophe. 
The building had been condemned as not fireproof, and 
the insurance company had dropped the policy from their 
list. At midnight thirty bodies were reported found. 
It was thought one hundred were in the building when it 
was burning. The effect was deeply deplored by the of- 
ficials, who were horrified and greatly concerned that the 
fearful thing had occurred. 

About two weeks after the occurrence we stood where 
once had been the "cold storage" building, and conversed 
with one of the heroes of the fire; it was 0. Hogan, first 
assistant engineer, who stayed by the boilers to keep them 
from exploding. He left them not a second too soon to save 
his life, issuing from the north door as the tower toppled 
and fell south. 

The company was insolvent, having made an assign- 
ment just before the fire. Many employes had from $30 
to $300 apiece due them, and the whole of the wages of 
some had run since the beginning of the construction of 
the building. Mr. Hogan said: 

"Our loss, as poor men, is harder to bear than can be 
imagined. Most of us live in rented houses, our rent is 
long since overdue, and in nearly every case we have been 
ordered out." 

On being questioned further as to this terrible fire and 
circumstances connected therewith, he substantiated the 
report of a lady's clothing being found near the ruins, 
but did not know whether she perished or not. One day, 
when in a restaurant on Stony Island avenue, a colored 




142 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

waiter, noticing the World's Fair passes which we car- 
ried in our hands, said: 

"You have passes. I had one while I worked in the 
'Cold Storage.' " He then became eloquent in describing 
a lady with "golden hair, eyes blue as the sky, skin white 
as milk, and as beautiful as an angel. "On the day of the 
fire I saw her pass upstairs; I did not see her return. I 
feel sure she was burned up." 

His description answered to that of Mrs. Welsh, former- 
ly of Wyoming. Her husband and she lost sight of each 
other awhile before the fire. He wrote back to friends 
he believed she had perished. A lady of Wyoming, who 
knew Mrs. Welsh, said she was a most beautiful woman. 
After the Cold Storage fire, numberless letters inquiring 
for missing friends came from different states. A grief- 
stricken father from Dakota waited six weeks in vain 
to hear something of his two sons. He returned home 
heart-broken, believing they had perished. The official 
report of Mr. Dennis Sweeney, Chief Fire Marshal and 
Chief of Brigade, settles the mooted question as to whom 
belonged the honor of saving the life of Capt. James Fitz- 
patrick. He says: 

"I have the honor to report that during the fire of this 
date Lieuts. Barker and Miller, of the hook and ladder 
company, of truck 16, and the undersigned, acting under 
directions of Marshal Murphy, raised ladders, and by 
means of life lines took Capt. James Fitzpatrick from the 
roof of Cold Storage." 

Signed, DENNIS SWEENEY, 

Chief of Brigade. 

The poor firemen on the tower, when they saw that 
all hope of escape was cut off, bravely shook hands, and 
took the fatal leap to the ground. Chief Sweeney's fire 
force is the largest and best in the world. It takes brave, 
steady men to be firemen anywhere, but in Chicago, the 
"city of high buildings," it is especially true. Both day 
and night they deliberately face death, as much as to say: 
"This is our business, and we're going to attend to it." 
There are thousands of brave deeds recorded in the de- 
partment books of Chicago, and who shall say not in 
Heaven? Instancing the case of Capt. Cowen, who a few 
years ago, while in command of truck No. 8, was called 
to a three-story frame house, which was burning furious- 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR J 43 

ly. In the third story, at a window, stood a woman with 
babe in arms; he placed a ladder, and, on arriving there, 
found her feet pinned down with frame work. As he 
descended for an axe, fire burst from the second story; 
as he again ascended the ladder, he ordered his men to 
drench him with a constant stream of water; again he 
swung himself into the window, freeing her, and descended 
with herself and baby in safety. Three times in all he 
ascended to accomplish this splendid action. His rub- 
ber boots were burned from his legs, and he was crippled 
for life. A few years later it resulted in his death. Such 
love as this, which makes these men lay down their lives 
for others, makes heroes whose deeds are surely recorded 
in the merit rolls of earth, and Heaven, too. 



144 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 



UNITED STATES ART. 

Nearly every day the scribe passed through some shaded 
portal of the "Fine Arts Building." As Americans, it was 
with great pride we inspected the thousands of master- 
pieces in sculpture, oil paintings, water colors, engravings, 
etchings, prints, charcoal drawings, pastelles, pen and ink 
sketches, architectural drawings, etc. 

From private collections were exhibited retrospective 
possessions of our forefathers when America was young. 
Then came the collection of foreign masterpieces owned 
in the United States. That occupied the greatest amount 
of space, and in great state daily received the citizens of 
the world. It is well to pay this tribute to Mr. Halsey C. 
Ives, chief of "Fine Arts," of St. Louis, Mo. He presided 
with sound judgment and fine taste in his selections, caus- 
ing the pictures to be hung with such sensitiveness in 
colors that each was a compliment to its neighbor, making 
them all look like masterpieces. 

These pictures were strong in originality, which be- 
speaks a grand future to our American schools of art. 
Here students displayed art technique of Paris, Munich, 
Dusseldorf and other schools of art. 

American art, however, seemed to be Americanized 
French art, yet we could not ignore the fact of our indebt- 
edness to Germany and other countries when looking at 
"Sheep Shearing in the Bavarian Highlands," by Walter 
Shirlaw, of New York, or the able, but horrible picture of 
the medieval cruelty and superstition of the "Flagelents," 
by Carl Marr, of New York. 

Jules Stewart's painting of "The Hunt Ball" and his 
"Society Christening" were told with pastmaster Ameri- 
can feeling, yet most perceivable was his French technique 
making of him fairly a Parisian by selection. The works 
of McNeil Whistler were favorites, and regrets were freely 
expressed because more of his creations were not shown. 
It is said that a few brush strokes on water colors from 
his hand contains more ideal piscatorial effects than those 
which have received full completeness by other artists. 
His "Lady with the Yellow Buskins" was a harmony in 
yellow-browns worthy of long study. Another, "An El- 
fish Child," a depiction of little Pearl in "The Scarlet 
Letter," in a strange attitude, a subtle look in her black 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 145 



eyes, and just ready to give that "naughty smile" so 
dreaded by her mother. 

In John S. Sargeant's portrait of Ellen Terry as "Lady 
Macbeth," he clothed her in beautiful draperies of change- 
able blues and greens, reminding us of the changing hues 
of the snake's skin. 

In Mr. Augustus St. Gaudens' wife and son, entitled 
"Mother and Child," and in other of his works, he showed 
a refined insight into character, which he minutely 
brought out with brave deftness. "The Judgment of 
Paris," by Walter McEwen, received great attention. So 
perfect were the figures of "Juno," "Minerva" and "Venus" 
that it was impossible for the spectator to judge to which 
they would give the "golden apple." 

This mythological legend is the most beautiful and in- 
structive in all the idealic poetry of antiquity. Paris was 
of royal parentage, the son of Priam and Hecuba. He was 
distinguished for his beauty. Before he was born his 
mother had an ominous dream which her stepson, who 
was a soothsayer, said meant that her babe, yet unborn, 
would be the means of the destruction of Troy by fire. So 
he advised that as soon as born Paris should die. Accord- 
ingly Paris was given to a shepherd of Mt. Ida, with in- 
structions to leave him on some crag wher*» eagles or 
wolves would quickly devour him. The shepherd followed 
his instructions, and at the end of five days returned to 
where he had left the babe, finding it alive and nursed 
by a she-bear. Moved to pity by the sight, he removed 
the babe to his hut, adopted him as^ a son and named him 
"Paris." When grown to manhood he married a wood- 
land nymph, Enone, the daughter of a river-god. But the 
gods were impatient on beholding their perfect happiness, 
so the fates decreed that this young, innocent shepherd 
should be subjected to a trial to which he would prove 
unequal. So the goddess of discord, who was the daugh- 
ter of night and sister of Nemesis, was commanded to 
throw a "golden apple," bearing the inscription : "To the 
most beautiful," among the Olympian deities who were 
assembled on Mt. Pelion to celebrate the marriage of the 
King of Thessaly to a beautiful goddess. It was then con- 
ceded that Juno, Minerva and Venus were the most beau- 
tiful. Furiously jealous of each other, they quarreled for 
the apple, and at last went to the throne of Zeus. But he 
was a crafty god, and declined to decide a question which 



146 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

might be fraught with dire consequences to him, and sent 
them to Paris, the young shepherd of Mt. Ida. On arriving 
and stating their errand Venus promised him, if he would 
decide in her favor, that she would give to him Helen of 
Troy, the most beautiful woman in the world. 

On the instant Paris gave to the goddess of love the 
apple of discord his conduct changed. He forsook Enone 
and married Helen of Troy, causing the Trojan war in 
which he was mortally wounded by Philotes, and in his 
dying moments his love returned for his long-abandoned 
Enone. At first she would remember nothing but her 
wrongs, but soon she repented of her unkindness and has- 
tened to him with remedies, but it was too late, and in her 
grief she hung herself. 

Walter McEwen sees powerfully and records with his 
brush with psychic faithfulness. "The Witches Telling 
Ghost Stories" was a weird picture, fairly giving one the 
shivers, so easy it was to enter into the spirit of it. "The 
Absent One" was of unusual inspiration. 

F. D. Millet, of New York, is an artist who is renowned 
for his veracity of vision and significance of poetic, per- 
sonal touch. We would not forget that pathetic, sweet- 
faced invalid of refined expression, seated at a melodeon, 
and, as in days gone by, we fancied we heard the old, sweet 
strains of "Long Ago" tenderly sung by one who, though 
not living, sang forth from this picture "Annie Laurie," 
"Kosa Lee, the Prairie Flower" and the grand old "Strike 
the Cymbal." 

The "Evening Breeze" and "Arcadia," by H. Sidons 
Mowbray, of New York, swere realistic and delicately ex- 
pressed. "Girl and Horse," by Edmund C. Garbell, of 
Boston, was considered a brave effort, taking on lines of 
great strength. "The Indian and the Lily," by George 
De Forest, was a fine effort. "The Battery Park," by 
Harry Chase, also received high mention. "The Viking's 
Daughter," purity itself, and "Knowledge is Power" re- 
ceived unusual recognition. The artist was F. S. Church, 
New York. "The Lady in Blue" was by L. W. Dewing, 
New York. In this last and the eight just mentioned were 
elements of strength and imaginative power which marked 
them as subjects entrusted to most faithful hands. 

There were eleven examples by Elihu Vedder, full of 
sombre richness and grace, as are all his efforts. "Sorrow- 
ful Soul Between Doubt and Faith" and "A Soul in Bond- 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 147 

age" were pitiful, yet grand portrayals of a soul's strug- 
gle. "Samson and Delilah/' "In the Lair of the Sea-ser- 
pent" and others showed refined yet daring analysis in 
brush illustration. 

Simon Harmon Vedder's "Head of a Young Girl" and 
"An Indian Head" showed marvelous facility of brush 
expression. Among these hundreds of fine works which, 
'tis to be regretted, were accorded by the multitudes only 
a passing glance, was Eastman Johnson's, of New York, 
"The Cranberry Harvest." It was as real as though we 
were in that one down on the old farm. You see them 
intently scanning the red berries, nestling among their 
green leaves. 

Winslow Homer, of Scarboro, Me., showed his "Sailors," 
"Hunters" and "Plain People," which were as truthfully 
brushed as Kafeilli expresses with his brush, "Sympathy 
for the French Peasantry" and "Laborers of the Boule- 
vards." Galahad Brought to Sir Arthur's Court" was a 
large decoration on a section of freize for the delivery 
room of Boston's public library. This was by Edwin A. 
Abbey, which he illustrated with dignified versatility. 
When looking on mossy banks and bounding waves of the 
sea by Alexander Harrison we felt he painted them like a 
poet. But as we recall "The Bathers" we would fain for- 
get his boorish, coarse depiction of rude-looking females. 
We are admirers of his works, excepting the nude. 

So we looked a bit, sighed a bit, and in our very love for 
his art wished he had painted them in bewitching, lovely 
flesh tints, of modest expression, and like "The Bathers 
Waiting Their Turn," by W. B. Baird. These figures sat 
on marble benches, and roguishly hiding behind them was 
Cupid. "Her First-born," by Bobert Beed, New York, 
possessed superior tenderness of expression, the idea be- 
ing superbly conveyed. 

There were fourteen landscapes of superior quality and 
color tone, by George Innis, of Montcalm, N. J. His "Sun 
Down in the Lane" was a refined effort, brilliant in red 
sky effects and shading away in many colors. In "Threat- 
ening" the tremulous atmospheric effect was clearly seen, 
and applied somewhat to "A Gray Lowry Day," only in 
much heavier effects. "Sunburst" was glorious. 

"Breaking Home Ties," by Thomas Hovenden, of Ply- 
mouth Meeting. There was not a more celebrated pic- 
ture at the Fair, nor one which appealed more to the sym- 



148 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

pathy of all who called at this humble home to see the inno- 
cent farmer boy, full of hopeful ambitions, yet sad at heart, 
because he was taking his first step out from his home for 
the untried future, and, above all, taking leave of his best 
friend, his mother. Strong men and good women were 
not ashamed of standing by it, talking retrospectively 
with one another, even shedding the common tear in mem- 
ory of the past. It was a healthful and wholesome lesson 
to the young boy and his parents when looking at this 
picture, and the artist could have chosen no subject which 
touched the hearts of all as did this. 

"Bringing Home the Bride," by J. G. Brown, New York, 
was another attraction, and contributed toward complet- 
ing the life story of the boy mentioned in the other picture. 
Now he had arrived at manhood, and with his young bride 
once more stood in the old farm home, his mother and he 
looking in tender love upon the coy young bride. 

"Training the Dog" and "The Stump Speech." The first 
depicted a ragged urchin surrounded by other boys, who 
looked upon him as their superior, as one possessing facul- 
ties of great merit. He, the only boy that owned a dog, 
was training it to sit up. Then mounting a box, his back 
turned toward us, and facing the audience, the boys, the 
patches upon his pants flying to the breeze, arms extended 
high in air and every digit spread, he gave the "Stump 
Speech." We doubt not after the little orator had finished 
that they mounted him on their shoulders, carrying him 
away in state. 

To "The Temptation of St. Anthony," by Carl Guthers, 
St. Paul, nothing could have been added to strengthen the 
effect either in expression or posture. 

"Salting Sheep," by John J. Enicking, was as real as 
though the sheep had really been seen licking salt. "Dogs 
Off the Scent," by J. B. Sword, brought out the intensely 
anxious appearance of the animals as they strove to "get 
on the scent." As a whole, and in detail, these last two 
named were magnificently brush told. Enicking's sketches 
for ceiling decorations for Hotel Waldorf, New York, be- 
side studies for other ceilings, were dreams of classic 
beauty. 

Eleven works by artist 0. Y. Turner, New York, were 
considered by all who saw them, masterpieces. "On the 
Beach at Southampton," "John Alden's Letter," "Saw 
Wood and Say Nothing" and "Courtship of Miles Stand- 
ish," all these and more, too, shown by this artist, were 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 149 

possessed of such merit that he was justly credited with 
possessing a rare gift for versatility of portrayal. 

'Twas regretted that the system of awards and medals 
was not arranged sufficiently satisfactory for the best rep- 
resentation possible of foreign masterpieces. The art, of 
every country, so changeful, was intensely interesting, but 
with feelings of pride, savoring of patriotism, United 
States art, to us must deservedly have first place. 



150 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 



UNITED STATES SCULPTURE. 

The work of the sculptors of the United States received 
like praise with the finest from other countries. 

"Christ and the Little Child," by Thomas Ball, repre- 
sented again the "old story" ever needful to hear. In holy 
dignity the words seemed to come forth from His gentle 
lips, "Whosoever shall humble himself, even as this little 
child, the same is the greatest in the kingdom of Heaven." 

Standing in silent eloquence of art, was the colossal 
statue in bronze of Washington. "The Ghost Dance," a 
study in plaster, by Paul W. Bartlett, w^as a realistic de- 
piction of some of the redmen's orgies. Here was another 
"Dreaming Iolanthe," by Caroline Brooks, of New York. 
Near by, partially veiled with her wealth of hair, shrink- 
ing in modest sorrow closely to the noble horse, who in 
the curves of his body seemed to show thorough sympathy 
and a desire to shield her, was "Lady Godiva Beturning." 
This, and many others were by this talented artist. 

In "The Buffalo Hunt," by Brown Bush, the Indian was 
mounted on a horse, and had pinned his victim with a 
lance to the ground. A life-size statue of Dickens and 
"Little Nell," by Edwin F. Elwell, New York, was finely 
rendered. "Intellect Dominating Brute Force, or Diana 
and the Lion," was a marvel of completeness, being finely 
executed. "The Angel of Death and the Sculptor," by 
Daniel C. French, N. Y., in its conceptive lines of psychic 
originality it caused all to pause, and ponder upon the un- 
certainty of life, for in the midst of his grandest effort this 
sculptor was called by the "Angel of Death" to drop from 
his half -lifeless hands the mallet and chisel. He seemed 
to ask for just time enough to complete his unfinished 
work, but the expression of the angePs face showed that 
his pleadings were of no avail. "The Struggle for Work," 
by J. Gelert, of New York, told a story of want and misery. 
In England at certain times there is thrown from a factory 
window, or some other place, a ticket which entitles the 
one who secures it to work, for a certain length of time. 
In this group a young man in rags held the ticket high 
above his head, while a sick, starving old man clutched 
wildly at his clothing, and seemed fairly speaking aloud, 
"Give it to me." A young boy, maddened with disappoint- 
ment, was reaching for it, too. This represented a few 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 151 

persons out of a large crowd who had trampled under 
their feet a woman with babe in arms, both seeming 
e earl y at the point of death, so emaciated and weak were 
they with hunger. The expressions of anguish, anxiety, 
and sobbing sorrow, combined with the fierceness which 
hunger brings to such, were in the faces of all these, yet 
the holder of the ticket seemed to have changed in thought 
and feeling from his first triumph to that of half remorse 
and shame, as his glance half inclined toward the old man, 
then upon the little boy, and the thought seemed to have 
possessed the gazer that knowing of those beneath his 
feet, he was passing through a great moral and mental 
struggle. Possessing by nature a noble, honest face, it 
was easy to see his ticket would be given to the sick old 
man. 

Another able effort was his "Last Force," by Max Kruse. 
After the battle of Marathon, the messenger brought the 
news of the victory to Athens, using his last force of 
strength to say : "We have been victorious." 

"A Young Acrobat," "Tired Boxer," "Baseball Player" 
and "The Indian Bear Hunt," by Douglas Tilden, are re- 
membered by all who saw them as taking first rank to- 
gether with the work of the rest of the artists of the United 
States. "End of the Buffalo Hunt," by Preston Powers, 
Denver, was ordered and purchased by the women of Den- 
ver for the Columbian Exposition, and at its close was 
removed to one of the public buildings of that city. John 
Rogers, of New York, showed a statue of Abraham Lin- 
coln, seated, and reminds the writer of a beautiful dream 
told her of him. The dreamer was seated upon a veranda 
of a third story in a marble palace. She looked down upon 
a broad white street, stretching off; in the distance were 
"sweet fields beyond the swelling tide, dressed in living 
green." The dreamer looked across upon another marble 
palace, where, seated on a veranda in its third story, was 
Abraham Lincoln, looking just as he did in life; smiling 
pleasantly, he called: "Arise and prepare thyself for the 
company of goodly ones who have long since passed from 
earth." Evening shadows appeared, and another dear 
voice said, "Look up." 

The dreamer lifted her eyes, and on looking into Heav- 
en's blue, saw it spangled with stars, while the unusual 
brightness of the moon threw a mysterious light, which 
to the dreamer seemed holy, for suddenly there appeared 
in the sky two large open books. The page of one was 



152 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

filled with large bright stars, while the other smooth white 
page was untouched. In the next book, one page was 
filled with large bright stars, but three were blotted out, 
leaving the white surface. On the opposite page stood the 
"living Christ," looking into the face of the dreamer with 
tender eyes of dark blue. His fine dark auburn hair 
seemed blown by a passing breeze back from a noble fore- 
head, and fell in waves upon his shoulders. A close 
auburn beard, the same color as the hair, adorned a noble 
face of infinite and majestic beauty; the nose was straight 
and aquiline. It was a face strong, yet tender in expres- 
sion. He pointed with His perfect hand, looking out of 
those holy eyes in pity and love, and seriously turned from 
the dreamer toward the unfinished page; nothing could be 
plainer than the thought he conveyed, but He did not 
speak : "You have more stars to win." 

What a grand subject for a new painting. 

This statue of Lincoln, by Eogers, seemed to be en- 
vironed and have partaken of religious fervor from the 
artist. His "Mysterious Music," was a young girl grace- 
fully holding an ocean shell to her ear. 

In other rooms we found illustrations which were the 
original drawings of Edwin A. Abbey, A. B. Frost, and 
others, for Harper Bros., New York. Also C. D. Gibson's 
for the "Century." These drawings, illustrating stories, 
brought up new trains of thought, these vivid illustrations 
causing us to weave from them new fairy fabrics of im- 
aginations. 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR 153 



UNITED STATES LOAN COLLECTION. 

From this collection we beg to mention a few famous 
paintings. The "Song of the Lark," by Jules Breton, 
Paris, was loaned by Henry Field, of Chicago. "The Ex- 
pulsion from Paradise," by Jean Charles Cazimas, was 
loaned by Potter Palmer, Chicago; also the "Flight Into 
Egypt." "Peasants Carrying a New Born Calf," by Jean 
Francis Millett, who painted successfully from 1814 to 
1845, was loaned by Mrs. Eugene Field, Chicago. "Sheep," 
by Rosa Bonheur, was loaned by Gen. Russell A. Alger, 
of Detroit. "A Reading from Homer," by Alma Tadema, 
London, was loaned by A. H. Marquand, New York. 

Very numerous were the old paintings of prominent 
personages, like "Washington," of 1795, "Monroe," of 
1816. "A Sewing Bee in Holland," by Fritz Bon Uhde, 
Munich, was loaned by Mr. L. Christ Delmonico, New 
York. "You Are Welcome," by John Van Beers, Brus- 
sels, was loaned by Charles T. Yerkes, New York. 



154 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 



UNITED STATES WATER COLORS. 

Hundreds of masterpieces, deserving special mention, 
must pass unnoticed. A few of the best were: "Twilight 
Gathers Round," by Arthur Dawson, Chicago. "A Sioux 
Camp," by Henry F. Farney, Cincinnati. "Early Morning 
in a Village Street of Kentucky," by Jules Guerin, Chi- 
cago. "Ten Pastoral Scenes," by Hamilton Gibson, 
Brooklyn, were like these just mentioned, intensely inter- 
esting. His "Russet" and "Upland Meadows," "A Con- 
necticut Hamlet" and "A Honey-dew Picnic" were special 
favorites. "My Puppy," by Henry Ihlfield, New York, 
was "so dear" we threw conscience to the winds and pre- 
pared to take it home, but the guards were too richly 
endowed with the gift of mind reading, and here especial 
reference is made to that handsome guard from Colorado, 
who is an artist himself of ability, and perhaps his pre- 
venting us from carrying out our bold, bad plan, we have 
since thought was because, being such a lover of art, he 
had designs upon it himself. 

"First Day at School," by Joseph Lauber, Leonia, N. 
J., no doubt represented a little one we once knew, who, 
on her first day of school, asked many times of the teacher, 
in long drawn, tired sighs : 

"Is meetin ? most out?" 

"All Roses in Their Season," by Mrs. E. M. Scott, New 
York. We knew their beauty and fairly smelled their 
fragrance. "A Bread Winner," by Emma E. Lampert, 
showed thorough knowledge of brush work in this idea. 
"A Design for a Theatre Curtain" was a treasure in art 
design, by Herbert Everett. Besides this were his perfect 
studies of country and city residences, public buildings, 
garden roofs, pavilions, and the inner apartments of 
American palaces, done by hundreds of American artists. 




" I'LL JUST TAKE ANOTHER LOOK AT THE CRITTERS WHILE 
SHE'S BUSY SEEIN' WHAT THAT BIG FAT MAN WHAT WEIGHS 
ABOUT FOUR HUNDRED POUNDS IS LAFFIN'AT." 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 155 



ART, OF AUSTRALIA. 

The paintings of this country alone were worth going 
to the Fair to see. Thousands every day admired and 
praised "The Five Senses," by Hans Makart; they were 
five nude female figures of rare loveliness, each acting her 
part of hearing, seeing, smelling, tasting and touching. 
We saw "Samantha and Josiah" looking at these one 
day; he grinned and acted contrary-like. This was too 
much for Samantha's "fortitude," and, with her most 
"cast-iron expression," she grabbed him by the shoulder, 
turning her "partner's" back to them, saying: 

"Don't ruinate yer eyes and morals, 'Josiar,' 'cause 
there are other 'uns ye can look at and make both you and 
me comfortabler." 

She walked toward the sound of loud laughing of many 
people and supposed her "partner" was coming, but 
Josiah, tricky as a colt, run his tongue against his cheek, 
winked cunningly, saying, as he turned back to the pic- 
tures : 

"I'll just take another look at the critters while she's 
busy seein' what that big fat man, what weighs about four 
hundred pounds, is laffin' at." 

It was at "The Good Brother," by Eugene Yon Bias. In 
prolonged roars of laughter, he'd make "short stops" to 
expatiate on the beautiful child-life shown in this picture, 
saying: "It's the most natural thing here; that's the pic- 
ture for me. See the dimpled little darling; she has only 
an apron on, and it would not even be tied at the neck 
had not her little brother done it for her, one stotin' off, 
and the other stotin' on. Isn't she cute? The boy is a 
typical one; hasn't combed his hair or washed his face 
for breakfast, but that doesn't keep him from being good 
to his little sister, by peeling an orange for her." 

Samantha said : "His remarks and laughter were fetch- 
in', for folks kept fetchin' up to his free description of this 
picture of sweet child-life." 

"Never Back," by Julian Von Payer, represented the 
Austro-Hungarian voyage made under Wayprect and 
Payer from 1872 to 1874. This masterpiece was faithful 
in cruel reality; the ship was frozen fast in ice and snow; 
some of the men were dead, others dying. A faithful dog 
crouched by his master; the captain was reading from the 



156 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

prayerbook the burial service for the dead, and when he 
had finished he Avould lie down 

"Not like the Quarry Slave at Night, scourged to his dun- 
geon, 
But sustained and soothed approach his rest." 

"An Incident of the Thirty Years' War," by Vacslav 
Brozic. This occurred on May 23d, 1678, when a deputa- 
tion of Bohemian Protestants threw from a window the 
Emperor's counselors, who refused, to comply with their 
demand for a discontinuance of the violations of the 
privileges of their sect. Another of his impressive pic- 
tures was "The First Communion of the Hussites;" next 
"Prometheus" chained to a rock, standing high out of the 
sea. An eagle was tearing out his heart. Most truly 
painted were the living lines of agony in his countenance^ 
while the grief of the water goddesses was terrible to wit- 
ness, as they, seemingly, pulled themselves up the smooth 
rocks as though alive, nearly reaching him, then slipping 
back into the water in hopeless, sad despair. So real it 
was, we could almost hear their wails of sorrow. 

Arranged in groups, were small paintings and water 
colors, which received first medals. "Home Again" re- 
ceived great attention, and many opinions were expressed 
regarding the stylish young woman who sat in an atti- 
tude of hopeless despondency. The expression upon her 
countenance denoted that she was discouraged and tired 
of living. On the other side of the long narrow box-stove 
sat her old-fashioned mother, looking anxiously at her, 
half curious to understand the whole, not knowing even 
part of it, hardly expecting her daughter would confide 
in her, for the expression upon her face told that she felt 
the difference in their attire, and that city life had placed 
a barrier between them. This and the "Vision of St. 
Bernard" received high commendation, and were the 
works of Artist Wilhelm Bernatzic. "Age is not Proof 
Against Folly," by Isador Kaufman, and "An Indian 
Summer," by Franz Simm, both treated on the same sub- 
ject, and describing one tells the story of both. A 
love-lorn, aged old beau was intent on courting a young 
miss who did not half realize the situation, yet the artist's 
idea was conveyed most forcibly that these young ladies 
had minds of their own, and, when put to the test, would 
plainly give them to understand they were not to be 
bought with their money bags of gold. 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 157 

Near these was a large painting of great merit. Sitting 
between John and Mary Magdalene was Mary, the mother 
of Christ. On a napkin, spread upon her lap, rested the 
crown of thorns. The strong point in this picture seemed 
to be the agonizing sorrow shown in her eyes, which was 
the expression of one dying. She seemed fairly dead 
to understanding John's words of hope and comfort, so 
dreadful was her grief. The face of Mary Magdalene 
was red and blistered by passionate weeping. This, too, 
was by Bernatzic, and was his most popular painting. A 
minister remarked: 

"If my congregation will come here on Sunday and make 
a study of this painting, in spite of themselves they will 
become sympathetic, full of sorrow and shame for those 
things which they have left undone, and those which they 
ought not to have done, and it will preach to them a silent 
sermon of repentance, which will do them more good and 
bring them into a fuller realization of what is their duty, 
as good citizens and Christians, than the best sermon ever 
preached." * 



158 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 



ART OF BELGIUM. 

The sculpture of this country was worthy work. "After 
the Walk," by Albert Des Enfans; "Pysche," by Paul De 
Vigne, and scores of others. "Hors-de-Combat," in oil, 
by Nathalie Bortzoff, was a battle between prize cocks. 
A motley mob watched the bloody exhibition of another 
"Cock Fight in Flanders," by Emile Claus. Both must 
ha ye been spectators of this sort of fights to make them 
so true. 

Charles De Naer showed, lying on a platter, a fresh-cut 
"Roast," which looked meaty enough. Jacques Car- 
abian's "View of Cogoleto," on the Mediterranean, is said 
to have been the birthplace of Columbus. Nothing could 
be fuller of perfection and loveliness than the flowers of 
Belgium, "Gladiolas," by Alice Fisher; "Carnations," by 
Camille Triest, Van Mulders and hundreds of others just 
as meritorious. 

The "Last Day of Autumn" was a dear old lady, by 
Oscar Halle. The dreary waking of "The Sick Artist," 
by Omer Dierick, was much talked of and admired. 
"Ostend Fishermen Caught in a Squall in the North Sea" 
was a powerful portrayal of the elements, by Auguste 
Musin. 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 159 



SOCIETY OF POLISH ARTISTS. 

All paintings of this department deserve separate men- 
tion, though but few can be. K. Alchimouicz showed 
many fine works, among them "Milda," goddess of love, 
and two Oriental pictures, "A Traveling Merchant" and 
"A Moorish Girl;" then "A Warsaw Coal Dealer" and "A 
Warsaw Straw Mat Dealer." This artist was versatile, 
and must have possessed innate knowledge of the many 
phases in human nature. 

A large painting by M. Zeuska was the "Baptism of 
Duke Lithuania," which occurred in 1336, and, through 
his example and influence, his whole people were con- 
verted to Christianity. John Matico, of Cracow, dis- 
played a masterpiece of "Wernihora," a French peasant 
who lived during the time preceding the dismemberment 
of Poland by Russia, Prussia and Austria. He was rep- 
resented as, after relating the history of Poland, prophesy- 
ing her resuscitation. His expression was of despairing 
grief, mixed with terrible rage, as he appeared to see, 
with prophetic vision, the evils which were to come upon 
his native land, and his terrified listener seemed trying to 
flee from him, yet fascinated, remained listening. 

W. Podkowinski, with his brush, perfectly carried out 
the hideous "Dance of the Skeletons." S. T. PopeiePs 
"After the Storm" was pictured with fidelity. A field of 
ripe wheat was beaten flat. Much of it had been washed 
away by the storm. The hard-worked father, mother and 
children, with downcast, sad looks, viewed their ruined 
crops. 

J. Kyezkiewicz ; s "Cossacks," showing his subjects 
mounted on purple, yellow and bright red horses, was very 
fine, and, in spite of the colors, credited him with being 
distinctively of the impressionist school. It seemed that 
colored lime lights were thrown over them, giving to the 
artist the impression of these colors laid on. The Cos- 
sacks and horses were so perfectly delineated in form, 
sinew, muscle, cords and hair effect, in posture, so dash- 
ing and wild, that really the striking coloring of the 
horses gave little offence. 

Looking at M. Reyzner's "Breton Peasants," we felt he 
never did, nor ever can, brush paint anything finer than 
were these wrinkled, leathery-skinned toilers. Sucho- 



160 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

dolski's "Gypsy Camp" was dark, weird and mysterious, 
so much so that a young lady remarked: 

"If I could have my fortune told in a place like that, 
and by gypsies who look like that, I should think that I 
was in just danger enough to make it spicy, and would 
enjoy it, if I was sure of being rescued by some gay 
cavalier." 

"The Feudal Law," by F. Zmurko, was represented by 
a naked, beautiful young girl with terror depicted on her 
face and in every line of her shrinking form. In the 
farther corner of the handsome apartment was a couch, 
and thrown over it a fur robe. She was alone jn this 
magnificently furnished room, which was heavily hung 
with rare draperies, its floor laid with rich rugs and fur. 
Lying about and over them were shields, armors and 
swords. This old law is little understood, neither does 
it seem possible to find out much of its history. All 
wondered how this picture applied to this law, for the 
most that is known of it is that hundreds of years ago the 
peasant of the soil was bound in slavery to the lord, 
duke, or others of high title. Whatever was his occupa- 
tion he was bound to it by, a law organized and put into 
execution by his masters, mighty in power, their author- 
ity extending over him in every degree of word, thought 
or action. 

"Under the Influence of Hasheesh," "A Lady in Fur," 
"Pieta," a Spanish girl, and others were also shown by 
this talented artist. 

"A Rustic Astronomer," by Kedzirski. In this it was 
shown to be a dark night; a small boy sat on the ground, 
looking straight at the moon. This picture was attrac- 
tive and a favorite, the mysterious gloom of night and 
the rays of moonlight dimly lighting the form of the boy, 
made it a curious subject, the contemplation of which 
many would never tire. 

F. Malczenski showed many rare works, one of them 
"The Death of an Exiled Woman in Siberia." Imme- 
diately upon seeing this picture we remembered George 
Kennan and his Siberian tales of truth told in the "Cen- 
tury." The dead woman lay stretched out on a board, 
which had served as her bed. A Russian soldier, sword 
in hand, guarded the door. In a hopeless, helpless atti- 
tude the husband sat near her, while in agony of despair, 
their son, a young man, sobbing, had thrown himself 
across her dead form. Standing at the foot of the bed 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 161 

was the priest. The whole was a horribly true picture 
of an inhuman practice in Russia, which, ? tis said, is not 
as generally practiced under the new regime. This pic- 
ture brought to mind thousands of cultured and educated 
people who have suffered and died there, such as, it is 
likely, these of the picture represented, who have been 
compelled, by some frivolous charge trumped up against 
them, to bid good-bye to Russia, their homes and all other 
property, and to end their days miserably in cheerless 
Siberia. This artist must have imbibed all of Kennan's 
bitterness and heartfelt sorrow when painting that sad 
and never-to-be-forgotten picture. 

J. Styka's "Queen of Poland Pray for Us" was a grand 
effort. In 1382, through the influence of this queen, a 
whole nation was converted to Christianity. 

L. S. MaslowskPs "Before the Impressment' 7 was a 
stern-looking, yet sad-faced, man, standing before the 
judges, who were to pass sentence upon him of entering 
the militarv service. 



162 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 



ART OF HOLLAND. 

The flower pieces of Holland were not satisfactory to 
all, as they had a ragged, storm-beaten appearance, which 
was a truthful depiction of them under conditions exist- 
ing in that country. But most people prefer to see rep- 
resentations of fresh perfect flowers. Their peasantry, 
home scenes and animals interested many full more than 
did any other department. Their scenery and marine 
views, in the humble opinion of the writer, were as good 
and no better than those of other countries. 

Fancy plays havoc with us here. "On a Bright Day," 
with Fred J. DuChattel, of The Hague, we strolled over 
grassy fields, where nature strewed the way with flowers r 
to "The Lake in the Woods," where birds sang on every 
bough. As we wandered on we came to "Arcadia," which 
we were loath to leave, but at last tramped away, and 
came to a man sitting in a boat "On a River." In the 
distance was a farmhouse, which, in the deepening twi- 
light, was nearly lost to view. Sombre shadows slowly 
came over the scene, and as w T e passed on we came to a 
field where were "Cows Resting." Fat, sleek and mild- 
eyed, these animals were by Artist J. H. L. Dehaas. "A 
Russian Peasant," by Herbert Vos, was admirable for the 
reality of the leathery, care-lined, honest face, showing 
toil and the struggle of life. H. Valkenberg's "Will You 
Give Me a Flower" was a home scene in a hut. All the 
persons in this picture were coarsely garbed and wore 
w r ooden shoes, except the babe sitting on its mother's 
lap, holding in its hand a flower, the father reaching and 
asking the question. The proud and happy faces of the 
parents, rough and coarsened with toil and care, looking 
lovingly upon the babe, made a strong and pleasing pic- 
ture. 

"At Breakfast," by J. G. Bloomer, shows a peasant 
family seated around the bare table, on which were a few 
coarse, heavy dishes. There were five figures in the scene 
— a boy, a girl, the father, the mother and the babe. They 
sat on rude hewed-out chairs. Chickens strayed through 
the open door. A pitchfork stood against the wall, and 
near it an overturned basket. It was evidently a warm, 
pleasant morning, yet a fire crackled away in the big fire- 
place. High above this ran a shelf, which was orna- 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 163 

mented with a row of blue plates. In a high, open 
cupboard stood thick, awkward-shaped dishes. The 
morning sun streamed brightly through an old muslin 
curtain and lighted up the neck, hair and face of the 
mother and babe. "A Barnyard Scene," by W. 0. Makins, 
was true to life. A thatched straw roof, with lichens 
growing out of it, covered a rude barn. A man was har- 
nessing horses to an old wagon, the animals affection- 
ately rubbing their noses against him. A dog lay on a 
box sunning himself; fowls wandered about clucking or 
singing hen and rooster melodies. 

"Alone in the World," by Jozef Isreals, is a picture all 
will remember. It tells the sorrow and bitter poverty of 
the old couple who had shared it together in cheerful 
thankfulness that they were spared to each other. But 
one day his good wife sickened and died, leaving him 
alone. There he sat by her dead form, in tearless 
grief, seeming incapable of thinking. On an old 
table were bottles of medicine and two old cups. 
How glad the aged husband would have been to 
have joined his dear companion in the spirit land. 
"Fisherwomen at Zandvoost" was by this artist. They 
were walking down the sandy dunes toward the sea, 
carrying on their shoulders baskets. Prominent upon 
brown arms and hands are large cords and muscles, com- 
ing from a life of toil. Their faces were filled with worry 
and sorrow, so much had they watched and waited in fear 
of never again seeing husband, brothers or lovers return 
in their smacks from the open sea. "Expecting the Re- 
turn of the Boats," by E. Yeerneer, depicts the women 
standing on the shore weeping and looking over the vast 
waters. How truly this line of poetry refers to them : 

"Men must work and women must weep." 

Isreals is exceptional in this line of work. His type of 
"A Fisherman" could not be improved upon for faithfully 
representing the living subject. Upon both face and 
hands appear deep, weather-beaten lines and barnacle- 
like lumps. In "Sunset," by Louis Apol, the effect is ex- 
quisitely beautiful. The sun, low in the west, is reflected 
in streaks up into the blue sky, flecked with fleecy clouds 
of red and gold. This reflection is cast through tall, 
straight trees of the forest, through which runs a long 
stretch of picturesque road. In the distance a wagon 
drawn by one horse is driven by a man, who arrives at 



164 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

his place of entertainment to be "Surprised" with the 
rest of the servants, who were partaking of a bountiful 
repast, elegantly served in the splendid dining-room dur- 
ing the absence of the lord and lady of the manor, who un- 
expectedly return, and, headed by the groom, who holds by 
a chain a fierce dog, burst into the room. "Me Lud" is 
the angriest looking man we have ever seen, and it is un- 
certain work to tell which will annihilate them first, he 
or the dog. The expression upon "Me Leddy's" face is of 
cold, disdainful surprise at their audacity. The crest- 
fallen servants are acting much like the agitated butler, 
who spilled his wine in the soup. Some hid away, an- 
other dropped a salver of dishes to the floor; a fainting, 
frightened maid is held by a fellow servant. There are 
over twenty persons represented in this painting, by E. J. 
Boks, of Antwerp. 

Mrs. Henrietta Ronner, of Brussels, cunningly painted 
the "Coquettish Cats," who were playing in a workbox, 
stringing thread, tape, everything in it "hither and yon." 
One stands with its paws and face resting against a mir- 
ror in a coquettish attitude, admiring itself. 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 165 



ART OF NORWAY AND SWEDEN. 

The paintings of these countries were emphatically of 
the impressionist school. Nothing seemed unnatural ex- 
cept the coloring, and the oftener one visited these de- 
partments the more they found to admire. Many became 
advocates of the impressionist school, while others par- 
tially accepted it. One picture of an old man walking 
away from a summer-house was supposed to represent a 
"Mighty Hot Day." The picture, as a whole, was too yel- 
low with sunshine and too nearly the color of saffron tea 
to be like any sunshine ever seen or read of. 

There were but few pieces of sculpture shown in either 
Norway or Sweden. The statuettes of maidens, "The 
Snowdrop'' and "Water Lily" was by Hasselberg, of 
Stockholm. The bust of a "Babe" was entitled "Mam- 
ma," which holy word seemed to come from its parted 
lips. This was by Ida Matton, of Sweden, student of 
Paris, and was particularly good. 

In the Swedish pavilion in "Liberal Arts" was a plas- 
ter statuette of John Ericson, by Augustus Soderman, of 
Stockholm. The marine views of Norway and Sweden 
were exquisite in shading of sky and water. On looking 
at them they seemed audaciously brightly colored, while 
many thought the atmospheric effect untruthful. But 
in study of the place and time, it was found true art must 
depend on honest impressions, and there was no mistake 
as to those of the artists in these two departments. Rare 
merit existed there. If not, why were people drawn to 
visit them over and over again? The artists of these 
countries insisted, and in good taste, too, that atmospheric 
conditions should be pre-eminent in either landscape or 
marine views. In these paintings representing one part 
of the country a misty appearance was ever present, in 
those portraying others was a cloudy, lowery look, or a 
heaviness of atmosphere, with no mist present. 

"On the Norwegian Coast" and "Winter," by Edward 
Diriks, were painted so freezingly cold that when look- 
ing at them, even on a warm day, our bones fairly ached 
from their wintry bleakness. "Bathing Boys," by Hans 
Heyerdahl, Christiana, was much admired. "In the North 
Sea" and "Snowstorm," by Thorolf Holmbee, the same 
could be said of these two scenes of the frigid zone as was 



166 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

said of the other winter scenes mentioned. "Want of 
Employment," by Josgensen Drammen, of Sweden, was 
painted with pathetic sentiment. On each face of the 
family was seen the grayish, haggard leanness peculiar 
to the "Ill-fed." "The Ill-fed" was a painting shown in 
the Italian section. The helpless, hopeless posture of 
the father, his head leaning upon his arm, which rested 
on a table, was a true picture from the real life of hundreds 
of families, and faithfully portrayed that sorrowful woe 
which long has been patiently borne. How long would 
men, educated in honest trades, out of work, endure look- 
ing on such suffering as this in their homes before they 
would rebel at such affliction, and swear "Something 
shall be done." As we turned away from the picture we 
heard from one of these unfortunates the despairing wail, 
"Is God dead?" 

In July, 1814, "The Beacon" lighted the enemy into the 
country. This painting, by Artist Georg Stromdal, 
Christiana, represented the period of the differences be- 
tween Norway and Sweden. The weeping women sat on 
the doorstep, while the wondering children watched the 
enemy pack into the farm wagon the belongings of the 
men whom they had pressed into the service. 

A square, flat-roofed house, set on stilts, of a style 
which was for vegetables and food is yet much used in 
these countries, for being built high from the ground, 
dampness and mold is prevented, and its contents are kept 
from decay. "The Son of Man," by Skredsvig Sandviken, 
referred us to St. Luke, 19-36: "And as He went they 
spread their clothes in the way." In this picture the sick 
had been brought by friends who were waiting for Christ 
to pass on the colt, "Whereon yet never man sat." 

An old lady was busy spreading rich-colored rugs and 
pots of flowers in His pathway. A happier look seemed 
to steal over their faces, as they heard, in the distance, the 
multitude crying, as they threw palms and branches for 
the "Koyal King of Glory" to pass over, hailing Him with 
the acclamation, "Blessed be the King which cometh in 
the name of the Lord," and as the loving Friend of human- 
ity passed them, it was not in vain they cried out: 

"Lord, save, or we perish." 

Many were the opinions expressed. Some supposed it 
to represent the Millerites of 1844, who then looked for 
the coming of Christ. W. M. Miller, Sr., a student of 
prophecy, thought that year brought prophecy to a close. 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. , 167 

Bitter was the disappointment of his followers at the non- 
fulfillment of the prophecy, but prayerfully he studied 
the Scriptures, knowing full well there was more to be 
revealed. After his death, his son, W. M., Jr., who had 
studied with him, carried it on alone, and completed the 
prophetic chart commenced by his father, which takes 
us to the end of prophetic history. On being so bitterly 
disappointed, after some search, they found in Revelation 
10-9, another link of prophecy. 

"And I went unto the angel and said unto him, Give me 
the little book. And he said unto me, Take it and eat it, 
and it shall make thy belly bitter, but it shall be in thy 
mouth sweet as honey." 

"And I took the little book out of the angel's hand, and 
ate it up, and it was in my mouth sweet as honey, and 
as soon as I had eaten it, my belly was bitter." 

This refers to second John, the smallest book in the 
Bible. These verses, descriptive of their disappointment, 
led them on and on in the study of prophecy. None but 
those who listen and watch for its fulfillment know the 
signs when they see them. 

Two works, by Baron Osterby Torshalla, of Hermlin, 
were of rare merit. 

"Bijou and Honore" told of a beautiful horse whom her 
master loved. "In Autumn" was seen the cold sunshine 
playing over a cheerful scenery in shades of reddish gold, 
faded greens, and yellow-browns; these blending richly 
on shrubbery and trees. The game pieces by Bruno 
Liljefors, Upsala, were remarkable, especially those foxes 
whose coats of fur were so real we felt we could take hold 
of them. In "Grouse Shooting" and "Wild Geese," every 
feather seemed one in reality. "The Orphans," by Allen 
Osterlind, Stockholm, showed two young girls alone, in 
a poor little room, mending shoes. On their faces rested 
that sad, solemn, friendless responsibility. So thinly 
-clad were they that it was with great relief we saw the 
bright fire in the grate. "Winter's Morning in Stock- 
holm," and "Mid-Summer Night's Dream" were by Pauli. 
"A Calm" was by R. Thegerstrom. The reflection of the 
sun in the still waters was well done, as were the others 
mentioned. "A Man and Mule," going through a snow- 
storm to market, was by Carl Tradgarth, student of Paris ; 
"Night on the Swedish Coast" was by Prof. Olf Wahlberg, 
Paris; his "Stockholm in Moonlight," "Misty Night," and 
"View from the West Coast of Sweden," were all so real- 



168 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

istic that we are quite satisfied we have visited them. 
Everyone marveled at. the brush-painted sun across the 
faces and forms of the passengers, in a "Scene in an Omni- 
bus," by Land Zom Margit Ball. Hundreds went closely 
to it, peering up through the skylight to satisfy them- 
selves whether it was God's sun or sun painted by the 
artist. It was not possible for sunlight and shadow to be 
more perfectly delineated on canvas than was that. His 
"Sunset" was very fine. Zorii's statuette in wood of "My 
Grandmother" perfectly represented a wrinkled, toothless, 
old lady, her nose and chin fairly meeting. Both as 
sculptor and painter he was a genius. 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 169 



ART OF RUSSIA. 

Russia's exhibit, sent from the Imperial Academy of 
Fine Arts, was small, being the work of three sculptors, 
and numbering fourteen pieces, included : "The Runaway 
Slave" was a plaster group, by Bexlemisheff; "Caprice" 
and "Bliss" by Marie Dillon, busts of Count Tolstoi, Ruben- 
stein, and others by Gunzbourg, the celebrated artist of 
the "Russian Wedding Feast," which has been copied in 
various ways, but no better copies exist than those of a 
few years ago which were sent out by the "Detroit Even- 
ing News." 

We found many of Gunzbourg's marine and historic 
paintings — Columbus, at the age of fifteen saving himself 
on the mast of a mercantile ship, which had been set on fire 
by a Venetian galley off the coast of Portugal ; "Columbus' 
Farewell at Palos Before Going to Sea;" then "The Ship 
Santa Maria on Its Way to America," when Columbus, 
during a heavy storm was surrounded by the revolting 
crew. Next "His Flotilla on American Shores;" then 
"Columbus Landing with his Suite at San Salvador." As 
a marine portrayer, this artist depicted reflected lights 
through heavy masses of waves like no other artist. In 
the revolt of the crew, during the storm, his billows were 
of marvelous truthfulness, and possessed wide-reaching, 
sweeping force, while underneath them was the profound 
upheaval, containing clearness and beauty, without the 
aid of sun glare. His waves were buoyant with the salt 
of the sea, and so full of infinite vitality were these genuine 
waves coming from the depths of ocean, that they seemed 
fit for a sailor to ride on. 

Profoundly religious were the paintings of Basil Peroff, 
who died a few years ago after bravely battling against 
consumption. "The Garden of Gethsemane," "The 
Descent From the Cross," "Easter Procession," and others 
were finer than language is to describe them. 

This artist, when but a boy, tied a playmate with ropes 
to a cross, so as to have an actual model, which in later 
years he caused to become a scientific realism. Artist 
Tchistiakoff painted with terrible realism, "The Grand 
Duchess Sophia at the Wedding of the Grand Duke 
Second, 'The Dark,' " when tearing off him Demetria 
Donskoy's belt, she seemed to lose all culture and refine- 



170 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

ment in her terrible rage. "The Cossack's Answer," by 
Kepine, was theatrical in design. This work of art de- 
serves ardent admiration for its able, daring boldness in 
showing the true spirit of the scene. Brutal and demoral- 
izing as the subject was, the artist's truthful brush paint- 
ing of the Cossack's boisterous defiance and brutish revel, 
preceding war and slaughter, was a grand representation 
of a revolting scene. Each character was strongly 
wrought in drunken songs, oaths and dance, and the par- 
ticipants were very near the point of dropping into brutish 
sleep. 

"The Ice Palace," by Jacoby, was a characteristic ex- 
ample of that fine class of work done by him. Of dainty 
and delicate beauty was the "Young Girl," picking petals 
from a daisy, and alternating the sentences, "He Loves 
Me" and "He Loves Me Not," by Israeleff . Kepine's was 
a grand painting of "Ivan, the Terrible," portraying a 
fearful episode of Eussian history. The artist seemed to 
ask for mercy, while he powerfully depicted the dramatic 
incident, and to teach with almost infinite power a lesson 
of self-control as he powerfully portrayed Ivan, in his 
agony of grief, looking on the bloody head of his son, 
whom, in his brutal temper, he had slain. 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 171 



THE FISH AND FISHERIES. 

The architect of this building was Henry Ives Cobb. He 
ingeniously used fish and all known small sea animals as 
representative ornaments on its pillars and cornices. The 
history of all waters was displayed in this building. With 
the exception of Noah's Ark, all patterns were shown of 
the first boats ever used; and before us lay examples of the 
first modes ever used in fishing. As we looked upon the 
perfected row boats and others beside fishing smacks, 
which were scientifically built for use in the open sea, and 
upon wonderful inventions of fishing tackle, and all of the 
necessary equipments for the convenience and comfort of 
the fishermen, we were reminded here as everywhere, of 
the rapid advancement of civilization; and as we perused 
some of the hundreds of volumes of literature which was 
shown there pertaining to this vast subject, there was con- 
veyed to the mind of the reader valuable information re- 
garding the rise and development of fisheries. In the 
center of the North Annex was a fountain; its basin con- 
tained carp, dogfish and other varieties of fish; turtles 
lazily crawling up the side of rocks, and, sprawling about 
for a time, would then settle themselves in a quiet attitude 
upon a ledge. The rocks were of great height, and water 
spurted from their tops and musically trickled down their 
sides over mossy banks into the basin below. In this 
annex was situated the tanks of salt sea water and fresh 
water. In some of these were seen primitive life forma- 
tions; and the professor in charge of this department 
instructed the spectators what the progression of animal 
life in the waters had been throughout the ages in their 
developing into perfectibility. To the student of biology 
and natural history this building possessed countless 
charms. Prof. Forbes, the eminent biologist, estimates 
the forms of water life as vastly larger in numbers than 
those of the earth or air kingdom. In a recent estimate 
he credits the water with having ten thousand the more 
specimens. The aquariums held from seven thousand to 
twenty-seven thousand gallons of water; the total capacity 
being one hundred and forty thousand gallons. Forty 
thousand gallons of this was sea water, which was trans- 
ported for the salt water exhibit. This vast subject is a 
suggestive reminder that the field for ocean exploration 



172 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

is three times greater than the area of the globe. There 
might be given a history of the ocean, dating from the 
flood to the Atlantic cable, with a parallel sketch of ship- 
building from the Ark to the modern iron clad; a narrative 
of the rise of commerce from the days when Solomon's 
ships traded with Ophir to the present, when the steam 
whistle is heard on every open sea. There might be 
chronicled the progress of navigation from the time whea 
the timid mariner hugged the coast by day and prudently 
cast anchor by night; to the present, when the steamship 
plows through all waters and enters the different ports in 
a manner which would indicate to the observer that it is 
apparently endowed with reason, so much it appears like a 
thing of life. The great seas and mighty oceans offer 
topics of varied interest which it would be difficult to find 
in any other subject; but it is not the waiter's purpose to 
go back to any great extent to the scriptural and classic 
periods, when the great oceans were unknown, or to tell 
of a later period when those who ventured forth upon its 
broad bosom, came home and told marvelous tales of the 
sights they had seen, and the perils they had endured. 
Homer's heroes returned to Ithaca with the music of the 
sirens in their ears, and the cruelty of the sea giants upon 
their lips. But in the progress of time navigation passed 
from the Mediterranean through the pillars of Hercules 
into the Atlantic. Then in good earnest the ocean became 
a receptacle of gloomy and appalling horrors, and the 
imaginations of these people were deeply stirred by new 
scenes which were opened to their visions and they depic- 
ted upon quaint charts grotesque shapes of sea monsters 
wmich were represented as careering through space and 
waylaying the navigator. Though the ocean has lost those 
features of character, which once made it mysterious and 
fantastic, and has become the sober and humdrum path- 
way of traffic, it is yet sublime in its immensity and 
power, but the romance and fable which once had here 
their chosen home have fled to the caves, and taken refuge 
in the grottos. The ocean is still poetic, and it has been 
made to assume in literature a profound moral significance 
and it has furnished apt religious illustrations. 

During the last half century great strides have been 
made in a comprehensive knowledge of the deep. Since 
1861 there have been several fish expositions, but the cul- 
mination of success was reached when the doors of this 
building were thrown open on May 1st, 1893, disclosing 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 173 

the most marvelous display of research and utility that 
had ever been attempted. 

In the tanks were hidden pipes throwing 3,000 gallons 
of water per hour; a waste pipe carrying the old water 
away. Sporting about in the water were mottled beauties 
of crimson and gold, silver fish and snow-white ones. 
These were from China and Japan. There were hundreds 
of them and other kinds. The brook trout are rightly 
named "speckled beauties " One of them flopped over 
among some foreign fishes, and remained with them all 
summer. Many fish were tired out from their long trip, 
which made them sick. Some were blinded from being 
crowded too closely, while the gills of others were inflamed 
by a fungus growth. This was cured by dipping them 
into strong salt water. All the sick were placed in the 
hospital tank and soon were well. There were but few 
sick fish during the Fair. 

In the salt-water aquariums were costly and rare 
marine plants, forming thickets and beds of flowers in 
hues delicate and beautiful as those of the rainbow. In 
the ocean these have a life and a nourishment, which we 
know but little of, except that they are there, and thrive 
in their briny nurseries, and exist in luxuriant beauty 
upon what would kill like mortal poison the vegetation of 
the land. These were sea anemones. Near by were the 
houses of stone which the little coral insect rears up with 
patient industry from the bottom of the waters till they 
grow into formidable rocks, and form broad forests, whose 
branches never wave and whose leaves never fall. Varie- 
ties of shellfish in myriads adhered to rocks or burrowed 
into the sand. The conch spawn floated lazily in the 
water; it looked like curiously woven ropes of straw, and 
we wondered what undescribed monsters, what unimag- 
inable shapes might be roving in the prof oundest places of 
the sea! never seeking, and perhaps from their nature, 
never able to seek the upper waters and expose themselves 
to the gaze of man. What glittering riches, what heaps 
of gold, what stores of gems there must be scattered in 
lavish profusion in the ocean's lowest bed ! What spoils 
from all climates, what works of art from all lands, have 
been engulfed by the insatiable and reckless waves ! But, 
oh, more affecting to the heart and mysterious to the mind 
is that wide, weltering, unsearchable grave of the sea, 
which holds vast companies of human beings, over whom 
the melancholy waves are chanting their requiems. The 



174 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

journeying winds may sigh as year after year they pass 
over their beds ; the solitary raincloud may weep in dark- 
ness over the mingled remains which lie strewed in that 
unwonted cemetery; but who shall tell the bereaved to 
what spot their affections may cling, and where shall 
human tears be shed throughout that solemn sepulchre! 
Only He to whom the wildest waves listen reverently. 
He shall one day speak and be heard in ocean's pro- 
f oundest caves. Then shall the deep, even the lowest deep, 
give up its dead, for the sun shall sicken, and the earth 
and isles shall languish, and the heavens be rolled together 
like a scroll, and there shall be no more sea. Every sub- 
ject of the Fair is broad and far-reaching, and causes us 
to wander into byways and stroll through fields of knowl- 
edge which cover the whole universe, until we are lost in a 
labyrinth of thought, and find there is only one course 
left for us to pursue. That is to bid farewell to retro- 
spective wanderings and in fancy again place ourselves 
back in the North Annex, only to leave it and stroll out 
onto the porches of the Central Annex. At last, leaving 
them, to find ourselves in the South Annex, where were 
placed exhibits from the whole world. On arriving at the 
Norwegian exhibit, the visitor was always cordially re- 
ceived by Secretary-General Bush, of the Society for the 
Promotion of the Norwegian Fisheries. 

He is director of the Fishery Museum in Bergen, di- 
rector of the Government Fishery School in Bergen, and 
chairman of the Vesti Industrial Art Museum. This gen- 
tleman presided over an imposing exhibit of every variety 
which can be thought of relating to fisheries, showing 
tons of canned goods. Their water foods were also shown 
in raised wax models of every known fish in their natural 
colors and in every hue imaginable. 

These fine works of art, mounted on handsome panels, 
could not be purchased by hundreds who were willing to 
pay almost any price for them as dining-room pieces, for 
these belonged toi the Norwegian Government and came 
from its museum. It was a curious fact that their fishing 
boats resembled their war vessels of ancient times, hav- 
ing the prow and stern, only they were smaller, like the 
old warships of the Vikings. 

The main exhibit of the United States, of this depart- 
ment, was in the Government Building, yet her exhibit 
in the Fisheries Building was a most comprehensive one 
under the supervision of Capt. J. W. Collins, who was a 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 175 

veteran in the U. S. Fish Commission of 1880, when the 
first important International Fisheries Exhibition, in 
which all countries participated, was held in Berlin, and 
the highest prizes and medals were awarded to American 
exhibitors. S. A. Forbes, of the University of Illinois, 
had charge of the U. S. exhibit in the Fisheries Building. 

In this annex we found an exhibit which was both in- 
teresting and useful — the "Fish Scaling Machine," in- 
vented and manufactured by Paul J. Daemicke and John 
Tobin, whose factory may be found on the corner of Ful- 
ton and Halsted streets, Chicago. This novel and ingen- 
ious arrangement consists of steel scrapers, firmly fas- 
tened on a flexible rubber base, which shaped itself to the 
form and size of the fish, scraping it perfectly clean of 
scales, without the least break or tear in the skin. They 
also showed a molding machine, which has long been 
needed in hotels and meat markets. It molds Hamburger 
steak, ice cream, butter, and fish balls by hundreds in any 
pattern or size wished for. Its capacity is unlimited, it 
molding from 300 to 5,000 per minute, according to the 
power used, the first figures named meaning hand power, 
the second steam power. It is so constructed that rapid 
changes can be made to any size desired. 

Volumes containing information of great interest 
might be written regarding the Fish and Fisheries Build- 
ing. In fact this assertion is true of every building which 
was on the grounds, and it seems doubtful if any story of 
the Fair will ever be written that will be eminently sat- 
isfactory to everyone. It is with regret the writer leaves 
this topic as well as all of them, knowing full well it 
covers but little of this topic as well as others. It is only 

"A little here and 
A little there 
Of the great White City, 
The World's Fair." 

And she cannot but be honest and compare it to some very 
poor acting which she once witnessed done by amateurs. 
One of them assumed to play the part of Hamlet. The 
would-be actor mutilated the character until it was hardly 
recognizable. Some of the disgusted audience protested 
and said, "This farce cannot proceed another step." 
Others asserted, between their loud bursts of laughter, 
that the actor should keep on playing the part if Hamlet 



176 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

himself were there. The would-be actor stepped up to the 
footlights and waving his hands majestically toward the 
audience said, "Let us have peace. If there is anyone in 
this audience who thinks they can play Hamlet better 
than I, let them come right up here and try it, and if they 
can better it I am willing, and I know that some of you 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 177 



THE GOVERNMENT BUILDING. 

This mammoth building contained the silent story of 
the pre-historic history of the world, and that of the past 
and present of the United States. There were eight 
entrances to the rotunda, or dome room, which contained 
relics of colonial times from California, Massachusetts, 
New Jersey, Pennsylvania, Connecticut, Rhode Island, 
New York, North Carolina and other states. Each alcove 
bore the coat of arms representing its state, and was richly 
draped with the American colors. Near the ceiling in each 
alcove, painted in oil, was represented the scenery and 
industries of each state. First, a scene from the Yosemite 
Valley and the Golden Gate; second, a woman spinning 
flax, with children running to her with their arms full of 
fruit, and sheep were in green fields. 

In the St. Paul alcove was a large warehouse, ships at 
the wharf, a man holding out a lantern peering into the 
darkness, and near him an anchor. Next Niagara Falls, 
then the Capitol at Washington, D. C. ; fronting it stood 
Liberty near an urn, and scattered about her were repre- 
sentations of all the arts; a child with palette in hand, 
and lying near it were books, scrolls and musical instru- 
ments. 

Florida was represented by a globe. About it was stat- 
uary, jewels, urns, palettes, musical lyres, harps and open 
books. 

New Orleans was presented under the symbol of an in- 
dustrial scene. A woman sitting, her lap filled with 
fruits. At her feet were melons, squashes, etc. A boy ran 
toward her with scythe in hand, carrying an armful of 
grain. Maidens and children were weaving garlands of 
flowers, while some balanced on their heads baskets of 
cotton. This beautiful picture was perfected by a back- 
ground and sky of light blue, running into shades of rich 
red and bluish- gr ay. 

On each side of these alcoves, running from the ceiling 
to the floor, were mottled marble pillars, in mixed colors 
of green, pink, blue and gray. 

In each alcove, resting in glass cases, were the relics of 
"old colony times." 

In the Delaware exhibit there was a lock of hair which 
had adorned the head of Washington when he was a 



178 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

young man. There were smelling-salt bottles, of glass 
inlaid with silver, one hundred years old. There was a 
white dish decorated with a lavender design, which had 
been owned by a Revolutionary soldier, and lastly a pair 
of amethyst arm bracelets, large and heavy as a dog 
collar. 

In the Massachusetts display were Washington's 
spoons and sugar bowl, which came over in the Mayflower; 
a ring worn by John Hancock when he signed the Declar- 
ation of Independence; a snuff-box which had belonged to 
Madame Pulling, of Boston, whose husband hung out the 
lantern in the steeple in the old North Church in 1775 for 
Paul Revere; then Washington's red satin embroidered 
vest How grand, stately and fascinating our forefathers 
must have appeared in those days with tied-back, pow- 
dered queues, rich velvet knee pants, and shoes clasped 
with silver buckles set with amethysts or brilliants. 

Next we saw a piece of Plymouth Rock which had been 
removed from "the corner stone of a great nation." The 
remains of the torch which General Putnam carried into 
the cave when he killed the wolf. Loving cups of 1659, 
and oblong silver ones, with handles at sides. In a bottle 
was some tea, taken from Gol. Abner Cheever's boots after 
the famous Boston tea party "affair" was over. And 
General Burgoyne's silver spurs were paid due reverence. 

Belonging to some of the grand dames of that tyne 
were scissors in shield; silver waist buckles, somewhat 
larger than the delicate silver ones worn by our misses of 
to-day; then there were enormous earrings, composed of 
garnets, or other stones, and brooches, half as large as a 
teacup. 

We found there the original copy of the "Star Spangled 
Banner," written by Francis Scott Key, while imprisoned 
at Fort McHenry during the battle of North Point, and 
also an old painting which depicted his refined face. There 
was a piece of altar cloth worked by Queen Anne; there 
yet remained in a corner of it, worked in faint letters, 
the name "Anna Regina." A long, thin black pipe lay in 
a wooden case, dated year 1620, and formerly owned by 
Miles Standish. 

In the New Jersey exhibit was the watch which lay on 
the table when the Declaration of Independence was 
signed. It was then owned by Lydia Danach, keeper of 
the old "Locksley House." She overheard Howe's officers 
and the troops who were there spending the night, plan- 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 179 

ning a surprise on Washington. She obtained of them a 
pass, saying she must go after a bag of flour. After notify- 
ing Washington, thus enabling him to save his army from 
defeat, she returned on the ^ye miles journey, carrying on 
her back twenty-five pounds of flour. 

There lay the British sword worn by Major Elisha Wal- 
ton at the battle of Monmouth ; near it lay General Wash- 
ington's Masonic apron, and a Masonic emblem owned 
by General Lafayette. In Arnold's journal, written by 
him in the old style of spelling, were the proceedings of 
his court martial, of May 29th, 1779. 

In the exhibit of Connecticut and Rhode Island was a 
pair of large iron shears which were used during the 
Revolutionary war to cut out garments for the soldiers. 
There was a piece of the first calico ever imported to 
America, which was in 1790, and at that time was sold 
for $ 1 per yard. There 'was shown the first earthen plate 
imported from France. About the edge were thirteen 
links, and in each the names of the country's thirteen 
original States. On the back it was stated that it was 
presented to the first President of the United Sates. 

We copied an extract from the "Bloody Tenant," written 
by Roger Williams; this in the old-fashioned spelling of 
caufe, and perfecution for caufe of "confcience dif cuffed 
in a conference between truth and peace in all tender 
affection, I prefent to the High Court of Parliament as 
the refult of their difcourfe, thefe amongst other paffages 
of my beft confideration." 

In the New York exhibit was wampum, made by the 
Iroquois, to commemorate the confederation of the Five 
Nations. This was believed to ante-date the European 
discovery of America. Next was exhibited an exquisite 
medallion of Marie Antoinette, when a young girl. Very 
interesting was Washington's camp service of pewter 
dishes which had been in actual use by himself and 
officers. There were three sizes of plates and enough of 
all articles to feed about two hundred at once; including 
fish knife lifters, tureens, pie knives, and so forth. Here 
we found his ledger, which was used after his death, in 
settling his estate. There was also Benjamin Franklin's 
staff — over a foot taller than an ordinary cane. A netted 
red silk sash, worn by Lafayette, and used at the battle of 
Brandywine to bind up his wound. Last of all were the 
portraits of the signers of the Declaration of Independence 
and the original copy. 



180 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

There were several portraits of Thomas Jefferson of 
1789 to 1794, which were painted during Washington's 
administration. 

In North Carolina was a religious book, one hundred 
and thirty years old, entitled "Heartsease." It was hardly 
our present idea of religious "heartsease." Next we 
found, placed on blue earthen plates, the picture of La- 
fayette's ancestral home, the home being in white raised 
work. 

Before leaving this rotunda we must not forget to men- 
tion the immense California tree in which was a winding 
stairway. The tree was named "Sequoia," after a half- 
blooded Indian, after whom the park was named where 
it was found. These trees were discovered in 1852. The 
foliage resembles that of a cedar. They are found on the 
tops of mountains, where they grow high and in small 
groves several thousand feet above the sea level. This 
particular one stood 300 feet high when discovered. There 
are left but a few living representatives of this noble tree, 
as the government, at a late day, prohibited cutting any 
more of them. The wood takes a high polish. The tree 
was secured by Hon. H. A. Taylor, of Wisconsin, represent- 
ative of the Department of the Interior on the Board of 
Management for Government Exhibits. It was also hon- 
ored by the name "Garnoble," Secretary of the Interior, 
on whose recommend the Sequoia National Park was 
made. This tree was removed in eleven sections, twenty- 
five feet above the ground; each section was hauled by 
sixteen mules, making one hundred and seventy-six used 
in the distance of sixty miles, over an extremely rough 
mountain road. It took eleven cars, one for each section, 
for transportation. For cutting, shipping and installing 
the sections it cost $10,475.87. It was eighty-one and a 
half feet in circumference at the base. Out of the bark of 
this tree are made mats which do not need to be removed 
from the floor for cleaning, as they quickly dry and they 
neither rot nor decay. 

In wax models were shown the modes of life which had 
prevailed among prehistoric people, and models of the 
homes of cliff-dwellers. Warriors of hundreds of years 
ago, who were represented hunting and fishing, while his 
squaw and papooses were home in their tent of bark and 
skins. She, while awaiting his coming from the hunt, 
wove blankets out of the first known yarn, which was of 
the shredded cedar bark of the tree we have just read 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 181 

about. They mixed it with the hair of the dog, the mount- 
ain goat and sheep, roughly spinning it from a hand dis- 
taff, then weaving it in the iirst known hand loom. This 
was a sapling bent and its ends were fastened together 
with strips of hide. The ends were tied to a tree, and the 
rounding end was slipped over the head and was allowed 
to rest about the waist. In the intervening space the 
weaving was done. Another method was rails tied about 
five feet apart to trees which stood about four feet apart; 
the yarn was placed in a woof up and down, then woven 
back and forth lengthwise until the woof was filled. How 
true has always been the old saying that "Necessity is the 
mother of invention." 

The pottery of the most ancient people possessed no 
beauty in shapes or decorations; no hieroglyphics of their 
language have ever been found. In the geological display 
were basaltic columns eight and nine feet high. They 
were nicely squared, or in octagon shape, and rounded at 
the top. These came from the Giant's Causeway of Ire- 
land. 

So often we cry inaudibly, "Oh, that we understood the 
mystery of nature, so inexplicable." There lay great logs 
of agatized wood in the rough and polished, lovely crystals, 
valuable gems, fossil and fern stones. Impressed upon 
them, and plainly developed in upper Cambria were shells, 
bull heads, mud turtles, and all kinds from earlier ages, 
differing in shapes, some indistinct, and of variable 
beauty. 

There were imprints thousands of years old of the sassa- 
fras, maple and other leaves, and there had been impressed 
upon a large flat stone, hundreds of years ago, a bunch of 
cattails. There were petrified snails with earth forma- 
tions about them; making them the size of a wash tub. 
A slip of paper was attached to one of them, and this was 
written upon it, "This was not a snake, but a snail." 

In the patent office were shown thousands of inventions, 
displayed in their order, the first effort sharply contrast- 
ing with the perfected machine. Agricultural and horti- 
cultural pursuits were represented in the form of straw T - 
berry beds, raspberry and currant bushes, all ripe with 
fruit, together with cabbage heads, great yellow pump- 
kins, squashes, apples and cherries. Then were shown 
rose bushes, honeysuckles, primroses, and other flora, but 
these apparently tempting and luscious fruits and lovely 
flowers were only wax, 



182 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

Birds and animals were shown from every separated 
bone to their whole skeletons, then beautifully plumaged 
or furred. 

In the fishery exhibit we found a lazy negro fast asleep, 
fishing with a bent pin tied to a cord which was tied to a 
tree limb held in his hand; dangling from his hook was a 
frog. He slept and fished "just the same" all through the 
Fair. He looked neither luscious nor tempting though he, 
too, was made of wax. The scientific angler was repre- 
sented wading in glass which represented water. He was 
dressed in a rubber suit and was using the latest methods 
of fishing. He was seen landing the same black bass 
every day. 

There were shown corals, sea- weeds, shells and other 
beauties and marvels of ocean's depths. In the fish hatch- 
ery were hatched out shad and other kinds of fish. As we 
wandered past many things we would like to tell about, 
we heard ripples of laughter growing louder as we neared 
the Dead Letter Office. Oh, what a conglomeration there 
was of clothes pins, watches, birds'-nests, jewelry, sticks 
of wood, brickbats, Irish, Dutch and negro rag dolls, 
bracelets, spikes, teapots, cardboard on which was worked 
"Welcome Home." In a box was a paper of raisins, fruit 
cake, some candles, a box of boot blacking; next we saw 
corn poppers, a flat flask labeled "When Fm full send me 
home to Johnny Dunn," combs, clockworks, pine-tree 
combs, a hunk of candy as big as your head, ears of corn, 
a cage of horned toads which the United States guard in- 
formed us were received in 1880, and up to that time, June, 
1893, they had not had a drop of water or anything to eat, 
except as they caught flies, the guard adding, "They are 
fly toads." 

In another room we found a huge globe, moving at the 
maximum speed of our world. On the walls were maps; 
in one we found the South Fork American river which 
runs through Coloma Valley, California, where, in 1848, 
the first gold nugget was discovered. We will read of the 
discoverer in the California Building. 

In glass cases was the United States mint exhibit dating 
from all the early moneys of the world up to the present. 
There were shown the first gold money coined in the form 
of chains, each chain bearing a certain value. These and 
other crude moneys were some of the first moneys used by 
the Egyptians. There were coins of the Greek Republic, 
representing the moneys of their cities and colonies three 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 183 

hundred and seven hundred years before Christ. Their 
highest point of excellence was reached about four cen- 
turies before our Lord's birth. There were the coins of 
the Ptolemy s of Egypt, the Macedonian coins of the early 
kings five hundred years before Christ; and there were 
the early moneys of the past and of the present from 
every country in the world. The most perfect exhibit for 
beauty and finish of design was that of the United States. 
There were medals presented for acts of honor and bravery 
from the United States and other parts of the world. In 
this building was a machine which cut out and stamped 
medals of the Government Building, giving a slight idea 
of how money is made. It is well that the process of 
making true money is accurate and secret. 

The mail service of the world was shown from its 
earliest period to its development and perfection, in this, 
the nineteenth century, in the United States and some 
foreign countries. In many parts yet of Algiers the 
mail bag is carried on a stick balanced over the shoulders, 
though a low cart drawn by a camel is much used there 
now. In Lapland it is carried on a sledge drawn by a 
reindeer or four dogs, the driver walking much of the way 
if the mail is heavy. The old Deutschland post wagon 
was a long, awkward affair, in which was seated a pos- 
tilion dressed in blue trousers, high top boots, high hat, 
red coat decorated with brass buttons and badges. Hang- 
ing at his side was a bugle attached to a gold cord, finished 
with tassels of gold which was about his waist. 

We saw the lumbering old-time Eocky Mountain coach 
which was built in 1868, and carried the first mails in 
Montana, doing service from Helena to Bozeman once a 
week, while now mail is received at those places four times 
a day. It was captured by Indians in 1877, but it was 
retaken by General Howard. Many distinguished peo- 
ple have traveled in it: General Garfield, in 1883, before 
he was President; on a visit to Montana, and on a tour 
of inspection, it carried President Arthur; in 1877, while 
General Sherman was its passenger, the distance of one 
hundred miles was made in eight hours with a six-horse 
team, frequent relays being made, P. B. Clark, one of the 
proprietors, driving the whole distance. Next we saw 
Indians attacking United States mail wagons out on the 
plains, but soon they were put to flight by the United 
States regulars. 

In profusion upon the walls were pictures of grand 



184 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

scenery and high mountains, over which w T ere steaming 
the fast mails of the United States. We were also re- 
minded of the marvelous mail service of our waterways, 
as we looked upon the pictures of our United States ocean 
steamers, the largest and finest in the world. We also 
viewed with much pride pictures of our men-of-war, and 
iron-clads, which are equal to any and every emergency; 
and the proudest thought of all is, that every part of them 
is manufactured in our own country. There never was a. 
better place than here to swell full of American pride, and 
to find out what a people ours have been, and are. 

We are a nation which has taken giant strides in civili- 
zation and progress. It is not thought necessary, after 
seeing and hearing American artists, to go out of our own 
country for a fine education in any one branch of study, 
not even for music or painting. In our travels we met 
an early settler starting out with a mail bag and a bag of 
wheat over his shoulder, to walk fifty miles through 
muck and mire, to return in the course of three or four 
days with his exchanged mail and the wheat ground into 
flour. It was a forcible illustration of the stories told 
us by our grandparents of past pioneer hardships. A new 
invention was the Cutler Manufacturing Company's pat- 
ent mailing system, of Eochester, N. Y., called the 
"United States Mail Chute. " It is for offices, public build- 
ings and hotels. On every floor there are slides for the 
letters and papers, all mail going to the first floor, where 
it is received in a special United States mail box, thus 
enabling people to mail with privacy, economy, safety, 
and dispatch. At the time we saw it five hundred were 
in use. There was shown the lever process of the fast 
mail system, the mail being taken on while the cars were 
in motion. 

The Postoffice Department was a marvel of accuracy, 
neatness and dispatch. The windows were marked 
North, South, East, and West, denoting the direction 
from which expected mail would come, or in which it 
would go. Slides were properly marked for inquiries, 
registry, foreign and United States stamps. Separate 
receivers were provided for foreign letters and papers, 
and separate delivery windows for the United States and 
foreign departments. There was a room where mails were 
sometimes disinfected. 

In models were shown the United States hospital tents, 
the United States marine disinfecting wharf, hospital for 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 185 

suspects, barracks for steerage passengers, the operating 
room, table, and all instruments used in a perfectly 
ordered hospital. 

There was shown a part of the globe; giving a true cur- 
vature of the earth, one-millionth of its actual size, indi- 
cating the correct rise and fall of land and water. The 
depth of the sea was calculated from any given point by 
blue lines, each indicating one thousand feet, so that at 
Cape Lookout it is twelve thousand feet in depth, if lines 
were correctly counted. Very wonderful were the tide 
models ; in that of the self -registering tide stierile gauge, 
the float rises or falls with the tide in a vertical tube or 
box, to which the water is admitted by a small opening. 
Its motion is not materially affected by wind or waves. 
It is transmitted in any desired direction by the simple 
mechanism of a pencil resting upon a long strip of paper 
carried by a clockwork transversely to the motion of the 
pencil; the result being an undulating tracery represent- 
ing the rise and fall of the tide. The record is completed 
by noting on the trace the correct time, and the corres- 
ponding reading of the tide staff, which does not require 
the constant attendance of a tide observer, as we know 
the rise and fall of the tide may be roughly estimated by 
inspecting the shore, a wall, or any fixed body rising out 
of the sea. 

The tide predicting machine was the invention of the 
late Prof. Ferrel. It is used in the annual tide tables for 
the United States coasts. When set for a particular port 
and year, the operator, seated at the machine, turns the 
crank with the left hand and tabulates with the right for 
the printer, from the dial, the time of high and low water 
reaching it. The height read from the scale on the left, 
does in one day what it would take forty days to do with- 
out the machine. 

At Eowen, Brazil, one of the great ocean ports, where 
everything depends upon the tide, tables are calculated 
in advance, giving the probable state of the tide every 
hour of the day and night, by means of a tower, and a 
clock-like arrangement in it, which is read by sailors set- 
ting out from port, at any time of day or night, as the dials 
are illuminated. And so is indicated to the sailors the 
subsequent time for their departure. 

There was shown a |17,000 lighthouse, like that at 
Towsy Rocks, Florida, the largest ever made. It burns 
eight wicks, is nine to twenty feet in diameter, one nun- 



186 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

dred and ninety feet high, and can be seen sixty miles. 
One like this was built off Cape Hatteras. The one which 
was placed there before this was lost, not enough concrete 
having been used on the ninety-two feet of quicksand. 
The loss was about 170,000. 

The furnishings of a lighthouse there shown, was a 
small library, bed, tool chest, pick, saw, shovel, rake, hoe, 
mop, broom, duster, fire-blower, long-handled brush for 
cleaning the glass in tower, and as little as possible for 
necessary housekeeping. On the outside were fastened 
boats and life-saving cables. 

Next we found how curled hair is made out of horse- 
hair. It is braided and twisted tightly, boiled in strong 
suds for hours, then baked. After some weeks it is cut 
in two-inch pieces for use. In Worcester carpets, which 
looked like Brussels, the warp was of horsehair. 

There was the tanned skin of an anaconda, a three- 
string violin made of tanned hogskin, a pair of boots 
made of human tanned skin, which, it is said, wear longer 
and better than any other. There are corners formed on 
most manufactured goods, but we trust our assertion will 
not turn the minds of fairy money-makers to a barbaric 
performance of forming a trust on human hide, for it 
is authoritatively stated that tanned fish skin is quite as 
good. Steers' horns, by some process, were spread out 
thin and flat, highly polished, and made into hairpins, 
combs, card cases, picture frames, dishes, umbrella han- 
dles, mouthpieces for pipes, paper knives, spoons, forks, 
ladles, and in many other articles. 

There were elephant tusks nine feet long. Near here 
was a large oak tree, cut down by bullets at Spottsylvania 
Courthouse on May 12, 1864. Near by were handmade 
cannon balls used in the Mexican war. 

Our next stopping place was at Camp Olay, where, 'mid 
snow and ice, Greeley and his remaining party were found 
on Sunday night at eleven o'clock, June 22, 1884. Next 
was represented the pitiful finding of the Delong party. 
To America belongs the honor of some of her explorers 
having been the first to go farthest north. 

Near Camp Delong we saw the wooden figure head of the 
brig "Advance," called "The Fair Augusta." She had 
once been painted blue, with pink cheeks, but amid ice- 
bergs her paint had been removed, as had her nose and 
one breast. When Dr. Kane and companions bade a sad 
farewell to the brig "Advance," which was split by being 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 187 

wedged between icebergs, they took the mutilated "Au- 
gusta" aboard of the "Hope," expecting to burn her to keep 
themselves warm, but she was spared to be seen at the 
Fair as a relic of this northern expedition. 

The departure from the brig "Advance" for the brig 
"Hope" was ably portrayed in oil by Artist Albert Operto. 
There were relics of the Dr. Kane explorations, whose first 
expedition lasted from 1850 to 1852; his second from 1853 
to 1855, his last search being for the Sir John Franklin ex- 
pedition. His surgical instruments lay in a piece of seal- 
skin, in which they were found. Pieces of this skin were 
eaten by the Kane party, it being their last food. There 
were a few pieces of cloth, some human hair, a watchcase, 
a few spoons, and one fork. The Greeley articles were di- 
vided between this building and the ship "Progress." 
Most interesting was the Greeley flag, which had been 
planted nearest the north pole. 

Next we looked at the relics of colonial times and- of the 
War of 1812. The leather water buckets were seen which 
were used by the fire department of Alexandria, Va., 
Washington being one of their members* How the shoes 
worn by Maud S. and Nancy Hanks when they made their 
records came to be among these old relics we leave to the 
surmise of the reader. 

We would not discredit any statement given under the 
signature of the government, or, to be safer, one given un- 
der its roof at the World's Fair. Shall we swallow the 
record whole, as we did there? We refer to a collection of 
miscellaneous articles which were found in the stomachs 
of steers (of course after they were killed). To avoid seri- 
ous trouble, this should be thoroughly understood. In 
the stomach of one was found a 13 1-2 by 1-inch bolt. In 
another a can of stones weighing 19 pounds, and in an- 
other hairpins, buttons, corkscrews, a silver dollar, rings, 
a watch-chain, copper cents, dimes and a Masonic emblem. 
A queer creature was that steer if it partook of the en- 
vironments and associations connected with these articles. 
From the stomach of another an iron four feet long (the 
true statement should be five feet), and we expect you to 
thoroughly believe either of these statements. 

We found worn, old army wagons, and about them were 
United States soldiers in uniform. Soldiers were there 
from every part of the world, dressed in their respective 
uniforms. The uniforms of American soldiers dated 
from the beginning of American history. The Puritan 



188 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

held his Bible in his hand, fastened to a stout chain about 
his waist, while with the other he carried his gun. 

We found an Oriental plow pointed with flint, which 
was presented to the government by the late Horace Mayn- 
ard when he was Minister to Turkey. During all the cen- 
turies it has been the only instrument used to rough up the 
soil of many Oriental countries. It is stated that from 
1875 up to the present that the laborers' wages there are 
only 12 cents a day. In Isaiah 41: 15, is God's promise: 
"Behold I will make thee a new sharp threshing instru- 
ment having teeth. Thou shalt thresh the mountains and 
beat them small, and shalt make the hills as chaff." 

Plows of 1783 were not much better than this, which 
was contrived hundreds of years ago. But what can be 
said of the Gale plow, manufactured at Albion, Mich., 
further than that it can scarcely be improved upon. 

A vast difference, too, between threshing out with a flail 
two bushels of wheat per day and the Buckeye Threshing 
Machine, which in a day turns out many hundreds of 
bushels. 

As we rambled' about we found a recipe for the exterm- 
ination of fungi and parasites, which can be used on any 
plant so affected. The statement read thus: "It is a 
sure exterminator: Six pounds of copper sulphate, four 
pounds of lime; add to this twenty-two gallons of water. 
Slack the lime before adding. Use all you like; 'twill do 
no harm." 

In the war department, thickly placed, were cannon. 
In placing the first brought in the building it tipped, strik- 
ing a young United States guard upon the temple, killing 
the poor fellow instantly. He was one of many hundreds 
who lost their lives in the "building of the Fair." 

In the department where guns were manufactured, in- 
stead of using dangerous mixtures to show how ammuni- 
tions are manufactured, there were used harmless substi- 
tutes, which showed the process just as well. It did not 
jeopardize the lives of visitors, and enabled the War De- 
partment to protect the secrets of making smokeless pow- 
der and other kinds for torpedoes. 

One-fifth of this building was devoted to cannon and 
rapid-firing Gatling guns, which inspired no little respect 
for Uncle Sam's military prowess, for there were cannon 
which threw one thousand pound shells, and hundreds of 
small side arms for cavalry use. United States troops 
were encamped by this building throughout the Fair. 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 189 

The review ground was ample and had a war-like ap- 
pearance, bristling with cannon on all sides, and the splen- 
did appearance of soldiers on guard, accompanied by the 
magnificent uniforms of generals, captains and other offi- 
cers, was an inspiring scene. From the tower of the life- 
saving service building signals were sent to that of the 
government building, which were repeated to the tower 
of the Citv Auditorium. 



190 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 



THE WOMAN'S BUILDING. 

No building was more pleasantly situated than the 
Woman's Building, it being central to all points on the 
grounds. It was a graceful and harmonious piece of ar- 
chitecture, proving its designer to be an architectural 
scholar. 

The prize of f 1,000, offered for the finest design, was 
awarded Miss Sophia G. Hayden. The building fronted 
the lagoon, looking toward Lake Michigan, while the oppo- 
site side faced the "Midway." About this building, and 
strictly belonging to it, was an air of stately dignity, and 
most perceivable on entering it, was the feeling of quiet, 
refined elegance. There were found contributions from 
every civilized country, all the work of women. It was in 
this building that the ladies of royal and aristocratic fam- 
ilies exhibited proofs of their artistic and literary abili- 
ties. Woman did most effective work in the Woman's 
Building, and was a great factor in the World's Fair by 
her contributions of knowledge and proofs of material 
progress. Active in seeing decorations and exhibits fitly 
represented,* in many instances, she took a more active 
part in the furnishings and displays of her respective 
State Buildings than did her male associates. 

The style of the Woman's Building was taken from the 
Italian Rennaissance. From the outside we ascended 
either on the east or west staircases, which led to the 
broad porch. Then the way led through the vestibules 
into the central room, which was about four hundred feet 
in length. There was a fountain, statuary groups and 
hundreds of objects which were of interest. Resting in 
glass cases were exquisite embroideries, laces, etc. There 
stood the diminutive golden Colorado mansion, bejeweled 
with the precious stones of their State. Close by was sold 
the Mrs. President Palmer spoon, the prettiest one of the 
Exposition. For sale in various places were engraved card 
receivers of gold and silver, showing Penelope spinning 
or the "Woman's Building." Amber jewelry, souvenir 
spoons and various other articles were also to be had in 
this department. 

From Italy came the queen's laces. Some of them were 
1800 years old. A high iron fence surrounded this exhibit, 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 191 

and it was constantly guarded by Italian soldiers. Every 
night at five o'clock the iron gate was closed and locked. 

In the New South Wales section was work done by 
the Duchess of Sutherland, who is interested, heart and 
soul, in lifting up the poor, and bettering their condi- 
tion. She has a beautiful face, which corresponds to her 
beautiful souL Little New South Wales "bobbed up 
serenely" in every department of the Fair, and received 
well-deserved recognition. 

The royal laces of Queen Victoria, hundreds of years 
old, were in the British section. Near this exhibit was 
a Russian peasant girl, dressed in her native costume, the 
black, high-crowned, peaked hat being more noticeable 
than the rest of her equipment. Every day she could be 
found seated at her loom, weaving cloth spun from flax. 
Women, under the patronage of the Countess of Aberdeen, 
knit the fleecy white Shetland shawls. 

It did not take long to convince one that all work 
entered in the "Woman's Building" should be rated in 
most cases as being above par with that of men. The 
original drawings of decorations for wall paper, tilings 
and dress fabrics, were artistic, and even classical. The 
silk and draperies from the firm of Cheny Bros., New 
York, bore designs done by women students of Pratt's 
Institute, which supplies designs to the large firms of 
New York and other places. Their hats and bonnets 
were dainty and unique in design and ornamentation. 

We saw ovens, with furnace attachments, for baking 
china. It is said that women have invented the most 
satisfactory ovens of any for this purpose. 

Novel, indeed, were the specimens of iron wrought at 
the anvil by a young lady of California. The work was 
smooth, highly ornamented, and could be used for many 
purposes. These exhibits, and hundreds of others, proved 
that women had not only entered successfully into com- 
petition with men in the arts and sciences, but had beside 
accomplished, with their nimble fingers, the delicate 
achievements of intricate and beautiful home novelties, 
as well as in these other fields, from which latter pursuits 
for hundreds of years she was excluded because of her 
sex. Aside from the heavy features of the Exposition, 
such as machinery, mining, and a few others, women 
duplicated all work done by man. So heroic was their 
exposition that it compared, as a whole, with the "Liberal 
Arts" department. 



192 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

There were photographs of and the history given of 
the first woman's hospital, which was founded in Phila- 
delphia, and is managed entirely by them. There was also 
shown a picture of their State Hospital for the Insane, 
managed by Dr. Alice Bennett, who is hospital superin- 
tendent of that large institution. There are hundreds of 
institutions managed by women which we do not mention 
which we learned of there. 

We found long, double woven baskets, with covers 
made by the Atlakapas Indian women past 80 years old, 
the last of their tribe; consequently these were the last 
baskets to be made like them. 

The writer is bubbling over with ideas of the beauti- 
ful fancy work. Dare she attempt a description of dainty, 
darling things, which her fingers refuse to shape into the 
dreams of beauty that nearly every lady knows how to 
create? She has heard of the Kensington stitch and some 
others, has even seen these, but they are all Greek to her. 
Ever since Mother Eve made her famous apron of fig 
leaves, which was the first fancy work known, it has been 
a favorite pastime with women to create dainty devices 
out of odds and ends. This work is divided into many 
branches, and each branch has many subdivisions and 
modifications, and when looking at that in the Chicago 
Exchange department, and the work of other American 
women, especially in the Marshall Field display, they 
were "so dear" that we could not help feeling in our heart 
that greatest and best of all is American art. 

Mrs. S. E. Crisswise, a Presbyterian missionary for 
thirteen years on the Rio Grande river, had charge of the 
Mexican lace work, done by the women of Metamoras. 
If this beautiful and unassuming woman still lives, she 
is yet acting as minister and teacher at the station which 
she said she should never forsake. 

A saleswoman instructed us how to get a satisfactory 
bath by wearing thumbless mittens made of Turkish 
linen, then for a pleasant thorough finish to use a bag 
filled with powdered orris and rolled oatmeal, or the last 
named alone. Sew loops of strong cloth on each end of 
the bag, hold the loops by the thumbs, and thus finish the 
rubbing process. 

Near the Austrian section we met a warm-hearted little 
Assyrian lady, Madam Karauna, who edited the first 
newspaper printed in the East. She is the author of 
"Manners and Customs of Etiquette," written in the 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 193 

Arabic language. All who knew her said, "Oh, would 
there were more like this loving, true-hearted woman." 
She represented the women of the East at the "Woman's 
Congress," her subject being, "Progression of the Women 
of the East." 

We wandered about and looked upon millions of beau- 
tiful and useful articles, out of which many grew rich in 
their knowledge of how to beautify themselves and their 
homes, an accomplishment which brings to a woman so 
much happiness and comfort, and it adds fully as much, 
perhaps more, to the happiness of the male sex. 

One booth was a bower of roses, heliotrope, vines and 
German forget-me-nots. Here was shown the handiwork 
of the Misses Heath, of Buffalo, who fashioned lamp 
shades and boxes for many uses out of crepe tissue paper, 
ornamenting them with sprays of flowers, making hun- 
dreds of beautiful and useful articles out of this dainty 
material. 

The gold-covered china was a secret process, known 
only /to the three Misses Healy, of Washington. They 
accidentally discovered the process, and suddenly lost it. 
After years of experiment they recovered their secret, 
from which they have received great financial benefit. 
One cup and saucer at the Fair brought ten dollars, and 
some of them more. 

In the booth of the "Woman's Exchange," of Chi- 
cago, was found the prettiest set of doilies at the 
Fair; they were worked with mignonettes. There 
were heart-shaped pin cushions of pale pink, hand- 
painted, and finished about the edges with double 
ruffles of delicate lace. There were embroidered 
white satin book covers; some of Turkish leather, 
heavy with gold ornamentations. White silk knitted 
slippers with pink ribbon ties about the ankles, but no 
"Trilby" foot inside to enhance its beauty. Bright pieces 
of felt were nicked on their edges, then gathered about 
the necks of dolls for penwipers. Here women made any 
article desired, and they received many orders, in work 
for which they were well remunerated ; so those who were 
needy succeeded in earning an honest living there. In 
large glass cases stood dolls dressed in styles of the 
fifteenth century, and of one hundred years ago. In the 
French section was shown another exhibit of dolls 
dressed in the style of another early period. The Wash- 
ington court dress, worn by one of them, was the most 



194 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLDS FAIR. 

magnificent of all. In the front of their poke bonnets of 
1830 were seen full blown roses with black lace droop- 
ing over them. 

In a finely furnished drawing-room ladies were repre- 
sented, made of wax, making and receiving calls. They 
were richly dressed. It was a fine piece of art, and greatly 
admired. On its walls were tapestries valued at $10,000 
apiece. 

In the British section were book covers of jet, set with 
pearls; volumes of Shakespeare and other works, covered 
with hand-modeled leather, valued at $1,000, and $50 per 
volume. The "Distressed Irish Association" showed 
priests' robes and altar cloths, embroidered in gold and 
seed pearls. 

Near this exhibit was the famous prairie chicken opera 
cloak, hat and muff, all edged with beaver. They were 
made by Mrs. Viola Fuller, of South Dakota, who com- 
menced them in 1882 and completed them in 1892. The 
feathers were of three colors, brown, drab and white, 
causing an uneven line of shades very pretty to look 
upon. It is said that only a few feathers from the breast 
of each prairie chicken can be used in this work, so it 
necessarily took a long time to secure the birds, and un- 
doubtedly a much longer time to patiently sew on each 
feather separately. The price attached to the garment 
was $5,000. 

It was shown that 2,000 Turkish Mohammedan women 
were Christianized, being employed and supported by 
their work, an embroidery of gold on every color of rich, 
heavy material. So solid were the stitches placed to- 
gether, in raised and sunken patterns, that the finished 
products looked like beaten gold with glints of color peep- 
ing through. This worthy institution was established in 
1877 by the Baroness Burdette-Coutts and Lady Layard, 
wife of the British ambassador, when these Mohammedan 
women were driven out of their homes and sought refuge 
at the capital. This occurred during the Kusso-Turkish 
war. 

A unique exhibit was a bridle made of white horsehair, 
colored with Paris red, by Dolsey LeBlanc, of the Arcad- 
ian settlement in Louisiana. 

The eastern vestibule of the building was decorated by 
the English, under the authority of Her Majesty, the 
Queen, who showed unbounded interest in the Fair by 
recommending an ample exhibit from every part of her 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 195 

vast domain. The Queen's suggestion was beautifully 
and generously carried out in the "Woman's Building," 
and in every department of the Fair. Mrs. Crawford, one 
of the representatives, an artist of note, with others, was 
sent to carry out the Queen's wishes. Hanging on the 
west wall of the central hall-like room of the first floor 
was Mrs. Crawford's painting of an Italian widow, hold- 
ing her babe on one arm, while in the other hand she car- 
ried a wreath to decorate her husband's grave. A nun 
stood near, looking in pity upon her. This work, on being 
returned to England, was presented to the Queen, and 
placed upon the walls of the Royal Academy of Art in 
London. 

The paintings and decorations of the vestibule were de- 
signed and partially executed by Mrs. Crawford, her best 
work being done on the ceiling. This was rich and splen- 
did in coloring; the general design showed an awning of 
soft semi-transparent red, drawn back at the corners by 
golden ropes. Then in flowing folds were richly colored 
curtains, carelessly held* back; one, in design, was blown 
back by the wind, and seemed to gracefully wave us into 
the room. The sky, at each side of the awning, was 
flecked with soft sunset clouds. An arch was to have 
spanned the vestibule, resting on a central pillar, which 
would have been decorated with running vines, with a 
fountain at its base. But this plan could not be carried 
out for lack of time. 

The side walls were filled with mural paintings, shaped 
into three arches. The spaces were filled with palish-gold, 
terminating in a cornice of redder varieties of gold. The 
pillars which divided the pictures were in warmer shades 
of gold, running to the marble wainscoting of reddish- 
gray, which ran beneath the pictures to the floor. This 
made a superb entrance. 

Over the arches, in fine relief, were dark women, repre- 
senting Faith, Hope, Unity, Peace, Love and many 
others. The mural paintings were executed by Mrs. 
Anna Lee Merritt and Mrs. Swytherton; the reliefs by 
Miss Halle and Miss J. M. Rope. 

The ceilings were painted by Mrs. Black, Mrs. Trivett 
and Miss Brooks. The whole of the work in this vesti- 
bule was presided over by Mrs. Crawford. If the foun- 
tain, so beautifully designed by Miss Garnett, had been 
placed in this room, the effect w^ould have been that of an 
open court, with its painted walls, carved arches, and 



196 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

fountain centering it; and the awning stretched over it, 
representing the sky, each side of it would have given 
it a finished appearance. 

Mrs. Austin, sister of Mrs. Crawford, had charge of 
all paintings belonging to the Queen and the members of 
the royal family, and of their rich old laces and much 
more of their splendid art. These sisters, of the blonde 
type, were beautiful, soulful women, who often gave in- 
teresting and instructive papers in the assembly room. 
Mrs. Crawford has issued a book describing the noted 
women of the past and present of England, whose por- 
traits adorned the walls of this room. 

Near the Spanish exhibit, was served by the Ceylonese, 
their fragrant tea. In the opposite part of the building 
were wax models dressed in rich robes, designed by 
Madam Kellogg, of Battle Creek, Michigan, whose system 
of fitting is noted for its entire perfection. In beauty of 
design her costumes compared with the Russian- robes, 
which were considered the richest ever shown. 

Hanging on the wall, near the assembly room, was a 
silk Persian rug composed of millions of stitches, done 
by the women of India, which they were over fifty years 
completing. Its center indicated royal ty, the following 
circle the next higher caste, then outer lines, intermixed 
with heads of animals, denoted the populace, and the 
whole of India's kingdom. Looking across it from any 
direction, it threw shades as different as night is to day. 

The unveiling of the portrait of Mrs. President Palmer, 
painted by Anders Zorn, of Sweden, was a repetition of 
many enjoyable times in the assembly room. 

One day while in the assembly room, Kate Field, Wash- 
ington's bright peculiar star, gave an impromptu speech, 
which was rich in originality, and in especial praise of 
the Fair. She said it was "the greatest piece of work 
ever accomplished, or that ever would be, so perfect was 
it in every detail that it admitted of no criticism." She 
spoke at length on the wonders of the Fair. Then in well 
chosen words, Mrs. President Palmer introduced the 
"old pioneer," Susan B. Anthony, saying: 

"We are proud to stoop and touch even the hem of her 
garment." She it was who years ago advocated woman's 
suffrage, then so unpopular, that women were pointed at 
and sneered at for opposing public sentiment in listen- 
ing to her. But most forcibly was it demonstrated, in 
the "Woman's Congress," that the world moves and that 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 197 

women are, in most respects, its main motive power. We 
sincerely trust that Miss Anthony, who has been, and al- 
ways will be, blessed with that keen sense of justice which 
has pleaded so long against the injustice of withholding 
from woman the ballot, the only real weapon of defense 
against encroachments of various bad qualities, existing 
in the affairs of our government. Though she has lived 
to see much to gladden her heart, we trust she may live 
to see at last the full fruit of her long, unwearying labors. 

At the Woman's Congress, Helen H. Gardiner, the well- 
known social reformer and writer, spoke upon the respon- 
sibility of women in heredity. Her valuable book on 
this subject should be owned by every mother, young or 
old, as her plain talk to women was considered the most 
scholarly and helpful effort of the Congress. If it seems 
to the reader that we are drifting from the subject in 
hand, we beg pardon, but we cannot resist quoting some 
extracts from her address: 

"Maternity is an awful power, and it strikes back at 
the race with a blind, fierce, far-reaching force in revenge 
for its subject status. Dr. Arthur McDonald, in his 
'Criminology/ says : 'The, intellectual physiognomy shows 
inferiority in criminals, and when there is an exceptional 
superiority found in them, it is of the nature of cunning 
and shrewdness.' Poverty and misery cause organic de- 
bility, and are not unfrequently the cause of crime. Who 
is likely to stamp the child with low physiognomy? The 
mother who is educated, or she who is the willing or un- 
willing subordinate in life's benefits? If this Congress 
assumes that the only thing to be celebrated is an in- 
creased capacity for women to win fame and money, then 
it teaches a disastrously false and dangerous lesson to our 
growing girls, for no Congress was needed to show that 
women are more thoroughly educated than they once 
were, or that they do successfully things which were once 
forbidden them. A higher education and larger intel- 
lectual advancement has enabled women to give to the 
world healthier children, and to bring them up in a man- 
ner more surely tending to make our world better, which 
is the noblest of all work done by women. But the ideal 
mother should have love too loyal, and a sense of obliga- 
tion too profound to recklessly bring into the world chil- 
dren she cannot properly endow and care for. It does 
not seem to occur to politicians and physicians in dis- 
cussion of this question that it may be due to other causes 



198 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

than incapacity, that educated women are the mothers 
of fewer children than the ideal wives and mothers of 
whom they speak in their argument against the higher 
education." 

Back of the assembly room was a kitchen, which was 
presided over by Mrs. Rorer, who gave daily lectures on 
cookery; she was dressed in a dainty gingham, cut V- 
shape at the throat, and wore a snowy white apron and 
mull cap, making a cool and charming costume. She 
advocated the use of cornmeal in all cooking, and insisted 
that every recipe was better for having cornmeal com- 
bined with it. Her object in so doing was to advance 
the need of corn, and bring down speculations made in 
wheat. Her corn kitchen was a decidedly attractive 
feature, and she successfully converted hundreds of 
housewives to using cornmeal in large or small quantities 
as needed in cooking. She used a molding board and 
rolling pin, invented by a Michigan woman (wish we 
knew her name, so as to tell it). Mrs. Rorer made a dis- 
tinct choice of these articles, and would use no others. 
The remark was made of our estimable Michigan com- 
missioner, Mrs. Valentine., that the only exhibit she se- 
cured for this building was a molding board. Let's see. 
In the room devoted to woman's associations, in religious 
and temperance work, we found she had showed perfect 
judgment in her selection of the dear, departed Mary T. 
Lathrap, whose works do follow her, and it suffices, with no 
further investigation or explanation, that Michigan re- 
ceived a proud showing under her management. Her 
precious memory will live in the hearts of two hundred 
thousand white ribboners, on, and on, into eternity. 

In glass cases were seen a vast amount of intricately- 
wrought handiwork of various kinds. This was done by 
the women of Michigan. The articles were made out of 
the best material that could be procured, and the finely- 
wrought drawn work, embroideries, china painting, and 
hundreds of other dreams of beauty, were to the specta- 
tor most convincing (notwithstanding statements which 
were made to the contrary) that Mrs. Valentine's requests 
made to the Michigan women were nobly and generously 
responded to. She labored to make of it a success, and 
asks for no reward except this, that she carried home with 
her on her departure from the Fair a clear conscience of 
knowing that she made a grand success of all she was in- 
trusted to do. 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 199 

At the south end of the second floor was situated the 
headquarters of the "Women's Associations of the 
World." One day, when in the booth of the "Authors' 
Protective Association," also called "The United Asso- 
ciations of Publications," we conversed for a short time 
with Katherine Hodges, the author of "Twenty Years a 
Queen." She showed us her book, which title had been 
changed from the original one to read like this, "Queen 
Victoria's Reign for Twenty Years," by K. Hodge. She 
said: "I am in litigation with the publishers who have 
stolen my hard work from me, and I expect to be beaten 
in the contest for my just rights." This short explanation 
she said, was sufficient to show the reason why an organ- 
ization had come into existence called the "Authors' Pro- 
tective Association," which is now located in the 
"Woman's Temple," Chicago. If a writer joins this asso- 
ciation his or her work is published, and protected as 
much as it is possible to do so, until this matter has been 
thoroughly legislated upon. 

In this department were hundreds of booths in which 
were represented societies which are pre-eminently com- 
posed of that element of moral and Christian training 
which constitutes a true sisterhood among women. In 
the "Shut-in Society" we found there much that was in- 
tensely interesting. The invalid members of this order 
are a wonderful power for good. The booth which con- 
tained the beautiful equipments of the "Order of the 
Eastern Star" was of dazzling magnificence. Near there 
was seen the work done by "The Social Purity Society." 
Next the work of "The Red Cross Society," and hundreds 
of others which caused the spectator at every turn to grow 
more interested. In this department of the "Woman's 
Building" was created the organization called "The 
World's Federation of Woman's Clubs," with Mrs. Hen- 
rotin, of Chicago, as its president. The badge pin which 
was decided upon and worn by its members was an ob- 
long one and shaped something like the letter S. They 
were made of gold and embossed in lines of white and 
blue which were in a group of letters symbolic of the 
name of the club. 

The World's and the National W. C. T. U. exhibit was 
under the supervision of Mrs. Josephine R. Nickols, the 
World's W. C. T. IT. Superintendent of Fairs and Exposi- 
tions, who was the society's representative at Paris and 
New Orleans. 



200 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

In this department were flags of all nations, and here 
were found large portraits and groups of the world's 
workers. Here also was the W. 0. T. U. liberty bell from 
Tokio, Japan, with this inscription upon it: "This bell 
was cast in the City of Tokio, Japan, December 10th, 1892, 
by Tsuda Sen. It is made from the metal of tobacco 
pipes of more than a thousand men, once slaves, now 
freemen." 

The bell hung in a frame. It possessed no clapper, 
but was sounded by tapping upon it with a metal rod, 
and gave forth a deep-toned toll, charming to hear. It 
was presented by Tsuda Sen, an enthusiastic temperance 
worker of Japan, to Miss Frances Willard, who, after 
the Fair, placed it in the temperance temple at Chicago. 
The bell was lirst tolled by a Japanese woman at the 
funeral services of Mary Allen West, who died shortly 
after entering this field of work, and during her short stay 
with them no woman was ever paid greater honors. 
Through her influence the opium and tobacco pipes of 
copper were given her by over one thousand converted 
Japanese to be melted and cast into this bell. She was 
a woman who possessed great unselfishness of soul, and 
her hands and best efforts went out in helpfulness to 
every form of sorrow and suffering. She was an ener- 
getic worker for all that was good, and the originator of 
the expression, "In order to succeed, a white ribboner 
must have grit, grace and gumption." 

In deep sorrow, the Japanese said : "We cannot under- 
stand God's ways, or why He called one who had w T on 
our love and respect, from the heat of her work, just after 
arriving in a new field of labor." 

Her body was carried one hundred miles on the shoul- 
ders of natives to the seacoast for shipment to America. 
It was inscribed on the box, "This contains the casket 
of Mary Allen West, to Frances E. Willard, W. C. T. XL 
Temperance Temple, Chicago." 

W T e suppose, e'er this, the Japanese have carried out 
their design of erecting in Tokio a monument to her mem- 
ory. She organized in that country a large National W. 
C. T. U. In the Woman's Temple, Chicago, may be seen 
a Japanese pall, six by eight feet, of black velvet, lined 
with white silk, embroidered upon it, in gold thread, her 
full name, then the letters signifying the union, and the 
words, "They rest from their labors and their works do 
follow them." 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 



201 



The women of Tokio, to better represent the white- 
ribbon movement, used the white side out at her obsequies 
there. This pall, of great and intrinsic value, is doubly 
priceless, because of its historic and sacred connections. 
It was last used in the final services at the old First 
Church of Galesburg, 111. 

During her busy life she collected material for writing 
a history of Illinois, which, 'tis said, will never appear 
bearing her name as author, for she turned from this un- 
finished and pleasant duty to make history by working 
for "God, and home, and native land." Her book on 
childhood, and its culture, has been of solid worth to hun- 
dreds of mothers. May God give us more and more brave 
Christian women like Mary Allen West. 

Now memory carries us back to the assembly room 
where, at one time, we listened to a particularly helpful 
lecture by Mrs. Wesley Smith, entitled "Symmetrical 
Womanhood," who reminded us that "charity meant lov- 
ing kindness to the maid-servant, gentle words to the 
man-servant, and that it is better to be than to do. To 
all of us it is not given to climb the mountain, and but 
few wear the laurel. Who shall deny she has not achieved 
her highest mission, who has been simply a good woman," 
etc. 

The library was on the second floor and fronted the 
"Midway." It contained thousands of volumes written 
by noted women of the past and of the present. In the 
corridor, on friezes and panels, scattered about the walls, 
were Koman and Egyptian decorations. One long piece 
of tapestry shown was worked by the wife of William the 
Conqueror. We found a water scene painted by a child 
seven years old, which would have done credit to an adult. 
Near it a beautiful wreath of flowers, etched by Mrs. 
Chatham. Eight sections, called "Sovereigns of Des- 
tinies," were especially noted. In water colors and oils 
were shown specimens of the art of Queen Victoria and 
other royal personages. 

On the east side of second floor was the California room, 
finished in its native woods. A heavy mantled fireplace, 
and opposite it a wide mirror reaching from the ceiling to 
the floor, attracted much attention. On its walls paint- 
ings of their scenery, on its oaken floor, Kocky Mountain 
bear and. other kinds of skins. 

Next in order came the Japanese room, filled with their 



202 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

art. The exhibits belonged to Kioto & Co., of Japan. 
The price marks on screens were $10,000 to f 13,000 apiece. 

The Cincinnati room was the tastiest and most com- 
fortable of all. Its walls were hand-painted in vines 
and uneven sprays of roses, and further beautified by fine 
paintings. Scattered about the room were curious pat- 
terned couches, a hand-carved piano, and oaken chests, 
which served as seats, with carved backs and arms. In 
a glass cabinet was fine work on china, designed and done 
by the "Cincinnati Pottery Club." 

The Kentucky room possessed a few old relics. A pew- 
ter plate rested on a bare shelf. This belonged to Mrs. 
E. Cloak, and had belonged to her great-grandfather. In 
a corner stood an old, worn harp piano, owned by Mrs. 
General Drake, which in its palmy days must have been 
a magnificent piece of furniture. Old paintings hung on 
the walls, and one of these was of Maria Trott, whose fore- 
fathers traced their history back to Rowena. A rich rug 
occupied the center of the floor on which stood a heavy 
polished, bare stand. There was nothing modern in this 
room. Its very bareness, combined with its antiquity, 
gave it a stately look, which represented an old home of 
long ago. 

When weary we ascended an elevator to the hanging 
gardens, which were situated on the roof; there we seated 
ourselves for a quiet rest; we were surrounded by stately 
palms, and while peering through hanging vines we could 
see the marble figures which graced the roof, and many 
others. This was the work of a true artist, Miss Alice 
Hideout, of San Francisco, Cal. 

Blue porcelain-like blossoms of convolvulus drooped 
gracefully among the vines, causing us in fancy to fashion 
a portable screen, with its ivies placed in front of some 
objectionable place or window. Here is the fancy : Make 
a box; place it on castors. With laths make a plain 
trellis work; paint all of it green. In the front of box set 
it thickly with lillies of the valley, or mignonette, and 
back of this ivy plants, which will soon cover the trellis ; 
then wheel it where you wish to cover an unsightly place. 

Next we went into the woman's restaurant — where was 
served the best meals on the grounds — then back to the 
first floor, to gaze admiringly on the two great paintings 
of "Primitive Women" and "Modern Women." These 
were in the arched spaces, over north and south galleries. 
The first painting named was the work of Miss Cassett. 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 203 

The second named was by Mrs. McMonnies, wife of the 
sculptor. If we mentioned separately every work of art 
which was shown here, the same tribute might be paid to 
each, that they were "perfectly grand." "Yellow Bull, 
Chief of the Sioux," by Kate Wells, of Salt Lake City, 
was a masterly effort. Price, $1,000. 

A painting represented "Eurydice Sinking Into Hades" 
(there are seven of that name mentioned in mythology, 
but she of that picture is the most celebrated). She was 
the .wife of Orpheus, and died from the sting of a serpent. 
The poetic legend tells us that Orpheus descended to the 
infernal regions, and persuaded Pluto to restore her to 
him. He consented on the condition that she should 
walk behind Orpheus, and he should not look back until 
they had reached the upper world, the penalty being if he 
did that she should go back to Hades. In his anxiety 
to know if she was following him he looked back, and 
saw her slipping off of a rock to go back into the lower 
regions. 

In the picture "To the Front," by Lady Butler, general 
and men were seen on horseback, riding fiercely to battle. 
The price of this was $8,625. "A Gay Cavalier Playing 
a Mandolin" was by Marie Fuller; "A Farmyard Scene" 
was by Hermine Shuell. In the scene was a cat washing 
its face, it was surrounded by fowls and it was a finely con- 
ceived picture. It possessed all of the accompaniments 
which would create an attractive, homelike, farmyard 
scene. A fine effort was that by Letta Crapo Smith, of De- 
troit. A maid was pouring from a silver tea-pot into a cup, 
resting in a saucer held in her hand. The lumps of sugar 
in bowl were very real, but most striking was their reflec- 
tion in the teapot. The texture of cloth and what con- 
stituted the furnishings of the table were very natural, 
while as a whole it was especially attractive. This pic- 
ture was awarded first medal at the Paris Exposition and 
at the Fair. 

"Elaine" (do not know the artist's name), 

"In her right hand the lily, 

In her left the letter, 

All her bright hair streaming down, 

All the coverlid was cloth of gold down to her waist, 

And she, herself, in white, all but her face, 

And that clear featured face was lovely, 

For she did not seem as dead, but fast asleep, 

And lay as though she smiled." 



204 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

The woman's work of Wayne County was ably repre- 
sented at the Fair under the leadership of Mrs. H. H. H. 
Crapo Smith, of Detroit, Michigan. She was most ably- 
assisted by her constituents, who, as well as herself, were 
women of wide experience. Each of these estimable 
women should receive separate mention at length, as 
each of their lives is devoted to philanthropic work of 
many kinds. Every county committee of the State re- 
sponded nobly to the trust imposed upon them. As space 
cannot be given to the hundreds of women who di<J ef- 
fective work for Michigan in the Fair, it seems proper to 
give the space that can be spared to Wayne County lady 
managers, for the reason they are residents of Detroit, 
the metropolis of Michigan, and naturally they did heroic 
work in this, the largest field. Below is given the names 
of the members of the committee of Wayne County: 

Mrs. H. H. H. Crapo Smith, Detroit, Chairman; Miss 
Octavia W. Bates, Detroit; Mrs. Henry F. Lyster, Detroit; 
Miss Helen Lothrop, Detroit; Mrs. Don M. Dickinson, De- 
troit; Miss Anna H. Davies, Detroit; Mrs. William Jen- 
nison, Detroit; Miss Florence Pond, Detroit; Mrs. Kichard 
Storrs- Willis, Detroit; Mrs. Sarah J. LaTour, Detroit; 
Miss Clara Avery, Detroit; Mrs. Henry Ledyard, Detroit; 
Mrs. Fitzhugh Edwards, Detroit; Mrs. Kenzie Bates, De- 
troit. 

Michigan is filled with representative women. After 
considering the matter of whom the most ably represents 
the typical woman of Michigan (and if this statement is 
not true of us it should be made so in example, as much 
as it is possible for each of us to do so), the 
writer believes her readers will agree that there is no 
representative woman in Michigan who is endowed with 
more favorable attributes than Miss Octavia Bates, of 
Detroit, who has stated in a recent letter that the wonders 
to be seen in those days of the Fair were an educatory 
force to everyone who was fortunate enough to visit it. 
I take the liberty of giving verbatim an interesting sketch 
of this lady which will interest many more people than 
are acquainted with her. This article is copied from 
"The Law Students' Helper," which is published by The 
Collector Publishing Company, of Detroit, Mich., by Editor 
William C. Sprague, A. B., LL. B., and Assistant Editor 
Griffith Ogden Ellis, LL. B. This magazine is not only 
invaluable to the law student, but to every one who de- 
sires information, which covers every public question of 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 205 

the day. All matter in this magazine, which is only $1.00 
per annum, is handled in a manner which conveys to the 
reader in few words a distinct understanding of every- 
thing that is worth knowing. It gives particular reports 
of every law school from all of the universities of the 
United States. In regular order it takes up every known 
code of law. This magazine receives distinct recognition 
from every lawyer of standing. The writer hopes she is 
forgiven for growing enthusiastic over "The Law Stu- 
dents' Helper. " It is not the first liberty she has taken 
in this work of getting "off the track," but no one under- 
stands better than an American what a fund of informa- 
tion one comes across which they cannot refrain from 
mentioning. When the country was new, everything was 
slow; roads were rough, and a roundabout way was taken 
to get to a place. As time passed on and the country 
developed, rough, primitive ways were made straight, and 
order was brought out of disorder. The writer feels that 
she has caused the reader to travel over many roads, 
which perhaps they would not have chosen; but when 
in company with inexperience, it is like long, rough roads 
in a new country and it must be made the best of. Mean- 
while the reader is silently vowing they will never try 
the trip again. A magazine which is so capably man- 
aged shall be recognized even by "Inexperience," who 
could not have given to the reader this article had this 
magazine not fallen into her hands: 

"The meetings of the law classes in Ann Arbor have 
been for years notoriously turbulent. Something un- 
precedented in the history of the department occurred, 
therefore, when the class of '96 obtained a presiding officer 
who succeeded in maintaining order at a class meeting. 
In this case the presiding officer was Miss Octavia W. 
Bates, vice-president of the class. Miss Bates is an ad- 
mirable presiding officer, and a thorough master of par- 
liamentary law and practice. Few, if any, women in the 
country have had more experience in presiding over meet- 
ings than has she. She is a handsome, intellectual-look- 
ing woman, with a commanding and impressive, yet win- 
ning, presence, that is very effective with her audience, 
whether she appears as the presiding officer or as the 
principal speaker upon the rostrum. Miss Bates has long 
been prominent in movements for the betterment of 
woman's condition, and for the advancement of the 
equal suffrage idea. We do not imagine that she is study- 



206 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

ing law for the purpose of practising it, for she is a woman 
of independent fortune, and we imagine that her idea is 
merely to obtain this addition to her already wide and 
deep education to enable her to work more effectively in 
woman's cause. 

Miss Octavia Williams Bates was born in Detroit and is 
a graduate of the Detroit High School, and also of the 
literary department of the University of Michigan, where 
she took her degree with the class of '77. In all move- 
ments looking to the higher education and political en- 
franchisement of women she has long been a persistent 
and able worker. She is probably officially connected 
with more societies looking to these ends than any other 
woman in this part of the country, if not in the United 
States. She is a member of the board of directors of the 
Association for the Advancement of Women, of which 
Mrs. Julia Ward Howe is president, a member of the 
board of directors of the General Federation of Woman's 
Clubs, and chairman of the committee on foreign cor- 
respondence of that organization, which consists of about 
five hundred federated clubs, numbering in all between 
forty and fifty thousand women. Miss Bates is also a 
member of the committee on dress of The National Council 
of Women, an organization with about one million mem- 
bers. Miss Bates has also been president of The Detroit 
Woman's Club, and president of The Detroit Equal Suf- 
frage Association, and connected with many other clubs 
and societies. 

"In the work of the congresses of the World's Colum- 
bian Exposition, particularly the women's congresses, 
Miss Bates was very prominent. She was a member of 
the Wayne County Committee for Woman's Work, and 
its- delegate to the congresses. She read two papers be- 
fore the Congress of Bepresentative Women, one before 
the Agricultural Congress, and one in the Woman's Build- 
ing, besides also reading four other papers for writers 
who could not be present at the congresses. It is prob- 
able that her work in connection with these congresses, 
upon the platform and in committee work, was the most 
important and far-reaching work that Miss Bates has 
done. The effect of these congresses, particularly in for- 
eign countries, can hardly be conceived. The effect was 
notable in this country, but here woman had already at- 
tained a much more advanced position than in the other 
countries of the globe. 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 207 

"The titles of the papers which Miss Bates read were 
'Obstacles to Improved Dress/ 'Ethics of Dress/ 'The New 
Municipal Suffrage Law for Woman in Michigan,' and 
'Club Life for Women on a Farm/ the last being read 
before the Agricultural Congress. In addition to her 
work before women's congresses and clubs and her ad- 
dresses before women's colleges, Miss Bates has been 
quite a prominent writer for the reviews and magazines 
of the day, such as the Arena and numerous other pub- 
lications of that class, and particularly journals for wo- 
men. In addition to her own papers at the World's Fair 
congresses, Miss Bates read papers for Miss Belva Lock- 
wood, President Cooper, of the International Kindergar- 
ten Association, and finally one for the Baroness Rappe, 
of Sweden, who was sent to the Fair by the Swedish 
Chamber of Deputies, the king being present at the ses- 
sion. This paper was on 'The Progress of the Movement 
for Women in Sweden.' 

"Miss Bates is not only an able and prominent public 
woman, but socially she is most charming and compan- 
ionable. Her conversation is most bright and interest- 
ing." 

We would not forget to mention, in the Woman's Build- 
ing was seen the work done by the New York School of 
Applied Design for Women. It was opened about one 
year and a half before the Columbian Exposition. For a 
young institution, it made a marvelous showing in the 
Woman's Building in original designs upon wall paper> 
silk tapestries, mosaic patterns for frescoes, and pave- 
ments. The open metal work was especially beautiful, 
also the illustrations for book covers, and the interior 
decorations for houses. The ornamental plaster work 
was modeled after plaster casts brought from abroad. 
The work was so well done, that it was hard to discover 
which was the imported and which was the work of the 
pupil. The designs of public buildings and private 
houses, were of phenomenal refinement. In the Sunday 
number of The Detroit Free Press, dated December 1st, 
1895, there appeared an elaborate article regarding this 
work, which was fully represented at the Fair, by Mrs. 
Dunlap Hopkins, the originator and founder of the school. 
Her success from the beginning in founding this school 
was phenomenal. The school immediately became self- 
supporting, and has from its beginning been filled to 
overflowing with pupils. Its graduates are in great de- 



208 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

mand as teachers, designers and architects. They and 
the under-graduates are beset with orders from the high- 
est art firms. The students design public buildings and 
private houses and they now receive appointments as 
supervising architects of buildings erected in pleasure 
grounds or parks, of which they also design and superin- 
tend the landscape gardening. And when all is com- 
pleted, the whole work is an entire emanation from the 
brain of woman. The flourishing condition of The New 
York School of Applied Design did not come about of 
itself. Its success is due to the practical wisdom, intel- 
ligence and foresight of a brilliant, handsome and charm- 
ing woman. A few years ago Mrs. Hopkins turned her 
attention to a careful study of the future of her sex in 
America. This clever woman quickly perceived that the 
self-supporting woman was on the increase, owing to 
various new conditions, and that life was becoming a 
serious question to her. Mrs. Hopkins forthwith set her- 
self to the bettering of the status of feminine wage-earn- 
ers. She examined into the branches of employment 
opened to them, and after thorough investigation came 
to the conclusion, that a new and untried field lay before 
women in practical designing, for the various branches 
of decorative art, beginning with good draughtsmanship, 
thence to the different styles of architecture to which all 
decorative art is more or less related. She then founded 
a school where all young women, possessing talent and 
ambition but entirely untrained, could be taught to prac- 
tically apply their gifts. While in England, which was 
a little less than two years ago, she was approached by 
envoys from the Princess Christian, begging that the 
noted American would consent to lend her aid in founding 
just such a school of applied design for women in Great 
Britain's capital. She was invited by the royalty to speak 
in the Imperial Institute, which she accepted, for she is 
always glad to advance the cause of her sex, and freely 
gave to them, in the presence of a titled company, the 
benefit of her knowledge and experience. She told what 
a splendid opening had been made for women, and that 
as architects and draughtswomen they stood in America 
equal to men, and that manufacturers of England, France 
and America were only too glad to buy designs made by 
the students. The outcome of this talk given in the 
great industrial palace by this gifted lady was the erec- 
tion in England of a f 250,000 building of superb architec- 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 209 

ture which was supposably designed by one of the stu- 
dents. The building is completely equipped in beautiful 
furnishings, in its class rooms, offices, and instruction 
rooms; there is a] so included a library, and soon a museum 
will be in connection. The building was erected through 
the efforts of the Princess Christian, a most intelligent 
and energetic woman. She is devoted heart and soul to 
the cause of the feminine wage-earner, to quote her own 
words: "Practical teaching by practical teachers for 
practical purposes is the object of the new school." The 
patrons include the Prince and Princess of Wales and a 
long list of nobility,- while its lecturers are to number 
such men as Walter Crane and William Morris. Mrs. 
Hopkins is going over to open the school by royal appoint- 
ment, and herein lies the honor to America. This great 
art educational bee hive, which is exclusively for women, 
has been copied in its purpose and methods from the one 
in New York, which was thought out and founded by an 
American woman. 

In the Woman's Building was formed the first society 
of the kind ever called together for the specific purpose 
of organizing a society called "The World's Federation of 
Women's Clubs," of which Miss Octavia W. Bates is prom- 
inently connected, being chairman of the committee on 
foreign correspondence of the organization. 

Mrs. President Angell, a member of the National 
Commission, was lady manager, and was another forceful 
illustration of a progressive woman, who did all and even 
more than was required of her. In order that surely there 
should be no mistake made in her official department, she 
carried out all of her plans, and saw to it that after her 
ideas were conveyed to her subordinates, the work 
assigned by her was well done, by working in concerted 
action with them until the culmination of success was 
reached. 



210 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 



THE CHILDREN'S BUILDING. 

This interesting building was located between "Wo- 
man's" and "Horticultural." It was erected by contribu- 
tions from the Exposition management, the States of the 
Union, foreign governments, and private individuals ; and 
all who contributed, in money or work to this institution, 
"builded better than they knew." 

Parents left their treasures by the hour or day, con- 
fident of their safety, both moral and mental, with young 
women who were educated nurses. They not only cared 
for the children's physical needs, but taught them charm- 
ing nursery rhymes, games, and how to be gentle and 
kind. Such nurses and teachers as these would be a 
"Heaven sent blessing" in any home. 

The building was two stories high, and spread over the 
roof, which was used as a playground, was a canvas can- 
opy, which protected the children from the sun's heat. 
Everything likely to amuse or instruct was found there. 
Little ones trundled their dollies about in cabs. One little 
miss arranged her large family, made up of all nationali- 
ties, in a row. She gave Betsey, a large rag doll, the place 
of honor. Then with inimitable grace she recited : 

"By the nursery window, in velvet and lace, 

The dolls are receiving to-day, 
And Madeline bows with exquisite grace, 

While Maude has a bewitching way." 

These little prattlers asked great questions, while dim- 
ples gathered about their dainty mouths and over their 
pretty faces, which reminded us of the appropriate and 
true mottoes which adorned the outer walls of this 
building, 

"Just as the twig is bent, the tree's inclined." 
"God's little ones are to become the great ones of the 
earth." 

One of the charming sights seen here was a little red- 
cheeked English miss, whose stockings reached half way 
to her bare knees, and who, after long persistence, suc- 
ceeded in "placing the cart before the horse," rumbling 



SIX MONTHS' AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 211 

her wagon in front of her, as she slid down the shining 
"cellar door." 

In a room below, we found the Garrett sisters teaching 
children, from two to six years of age, who were deaf, 
but possessed the organs of articulation so they were 
taught to converse plainly. This was not a novelty to us, 
though to many it was; for situated in the beautiful in- 
land city of Flint, is Michigan's State institution for the 
deaf and dumb, with fine buildings, ample grounds, and 
the best instructors to be found in the world, who carry 
out every known method for their instruction, of which 
its citizens are justly proud. 

The Garrett School is located in Philadelphia, Penn., 
on the corner of Belmont and Monument avenues, Miss 
Mary Garrett acting as principal. The home was opened 
in 1892. Children are admitted between the ages of two 
and eight. Their work, in this building, was carried on, 
as nearly as possible, as it is in their Philadelphia home. 

The little ones were talked to, and treated in every 
way as though they could hear, and they learned very 
fast to talk plainly. At the home they live a perfectly 
natural life. They are allowed plenty of play, eat at the 
same table with the teachers and principal, and are taught 
good manners there and everywhere. 

In the library of the "Children's Building" were books, 
magazines and all periodicals which are written for chil- 
dren. In another room was done modeling in clay and 
putty. Sculpturing in hard white soap instead of mar- 
ble. Wood carving, scroll-sawing, and woodwork. The 
young carpenters, when through working, carefully 
placed the bright, keen-edged tools in their glass cases. 

There was also a study-room. Here they became men- 
tally brighter because of the physical exercise in the gym- 
nasium, which was in the center of the first floor, fitted 
with every accoutrement for the physical culture of the 
boys and girls, who entered into the sport with zest. 
Many became experts under the direction of their teacher, 
Mr. Henry Hartman. 

Here we met "the nice little man" of the Forestry 
Building, who said: 

"Have you visited the kiddery? It's the prettiest sight 
you'll see, there is where the pink-fisted little cherubs get 
the yell rocked right out of them." 

An immense crowd was gathered before the glass par- 
tition which fronted the room where the babies were. 



212 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

This partition extended nearly the length of the building. 
We passed in and saw numerous, snowy white cribs, in 
which lay the darling babies from many homes. 

Those little loved, tender faces, 
Crowed in downy white nests, 
They smiled in glances heavenly, 
As we pressed them to our breasts. 

The World's Fair was full of delights, 

It had its delusions, too, 

But the purest, sweetest, and best thing there 

Was hearing the babies coo. 

On their baby shoulders 

Each wore a numbered tag, 

While mother carried a corresponding one, 

Placed in her hand bag. 

If mother lost the tag, 

Her baby she might claim, 

But there she must sit and watch and wait, 

Till all had been taken, from Jimmie to Kate. 

In another room, little toddlers, ranging from three to 
iiye years of age, cried some for mamma, squabbled over 
their playthings, pulled hair a little, but usually enter- 
tained each other very genteelly. In a room back of this, 
white capped and aproned little maids, from eight to ten 
years of age, served each other with mock breakfasts, 
luncheons and six o'clock dinners, which taught them the 
polite art, so invaluable, in serving meals. 

For sale, on counters, were playthings of all descrip- 
tions, story books, one entitled, "Three Girls in a Flat," 
was written on the Woman's Building by three girls, em- 
ployed in that edifice. It is sincerely regretted that their 
names are lost, and that we cannot give them. 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 21 & 



PUCK'S BUILDING 

Cute Puck, with his ever present plug hat, was a cun- 
ning little cupid, as mounted on the dome, he jauntily 
watched over this complete, neat building, cunningly 
decorated with garlands of leaves and flowers. Every 
morning we bade him "Good day, and good luck." 

An old dame, who held a subordinate position in the 
Fair, was heard to remark: 

"I can't understand why that frivolous building was 
allowed to be placed by the Woman's Building." 

A kind-hearted little woman answered her: 

"Puck is there in common pity to humanity, which 
sighs and groans under burdens too heavy to bear. He 
possesses that which is accepted as a Christian grace, the 
ability to drive away the blues, and well does Puck, the 
little flirt, fulfill his mission." 

When in this building it was fascinating to watch the 
swift moving plates print the amusing happenings of the 
grounds, and to see thousands of copies roll out of the 
press. All felt repaid, and happier for having visited the 
building. 



214 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 



THE WHITE STAR LINE. 

This round building, out and in, represented a ship fitted 
out for a voyage. Inside were shown beautiful models 
of majestic steamers, with expensively furnished, grand 
and convenient state rooms; as fine and comfortable 
apartments as may be found in the finest hotels in the 
world. A trip across the water with the modern luxuries 
which were shown there would indeed be a novelty and 
a treat, for on arriving at one's destination, they could 

not but feel rested and prepared for other pleasures. 

% 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR 215 

TRANSPORTATION BUILDING AND THE "JOHNNY 
BULL TRAIN." 

All language fails when trying to express the impres- 
sive splendor of the main entrance, or the "Golden Door." 
It faced the east, and consisted of a series of receding 
arches. The arch overhead was ornamented with alle- 
gorical figures, and groups in bas-relief. The corners 
above were decorated with mural paintings of marine and 
railway themes. On each side were panels ; one, in relief 
work, demonstrating ancient transportation. Oxen har- 
nessed to wagons, and then sail ships. On the opposite 
side was a palatial display of modern railway travel. 
Reaching from the top of the arch of the golden door to 
the ground was a solid mass of gold leaf, ornamented 
somewhat with silver; lovely colors shone through from 
the background. 

This was one of the dazzling beauties of the Fair. The 
rest of the building was, in color, red, and ornamented in 
the Pompeiian style. 

For the first time in the history of world's expositions, 
the science of transportation was exhibited in its broad- 
est meaning. There was presented to the spectator, the 
origin, growth and development of the various methods 
of transportation used in all ages and in all parts of the 
world. There were shown specimens of vehicles used by 
barbarous and semi- civilized tribes. The development 
of water crafts, from the crudest form of the modern 
ocean ship up to the elegantly fitted steamers of to-day. 
The first idea of wheels, the greatest of all means of trans- 
portation, up to that of the modern. The aim was to 
show the past history of all transportation by showing 
the relics of early days; and comparing the latest modes 
of travel with these, it formed a strong contrast; which 
was a mighty testimony and a flattering tribute to the 
genius of this age. 

This grand object lesson was so clearly and impres- 
sively presented that much was learned in hours and 
days that would require months and years in study or 
travel to attain. At the close of the first third of the 
present century the sea trade of the world was carried 
on with ships built of wood, propelled by sails. But the 



216 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

invention of the steam engine superseded wind, which 
till then from time immemorial had been the propelling 
power in ocean navigation, and now electricity bids fair 
to supersede steam. 

On the upper floor of this building we found a letter 
written in 1811. by Dr. Elias Coffin in derision of Robert 
Fulton's steamboat. It may have sounded sharp to peo- 
ple in those days, but it reads to us of to-day like the 
mutterings of a foolish, non-progressive and jealous per- 
son. It was handed to people along the shores of the 
Hudson, and along the shores of the Mississippi by the 
flatboatmen, who feared the steamboat would become 
popular, while the doctor was convinced that it was ex- 
tremely dangerous. This letter which we saw was the 
original one written by Dr. Coffin. It was preserved and 
framed by Robert's sister, Miss Fulton. The frame 
which environed the letter was made of narrow, flat 
sticks, and looked like an old slate frame. The letter, 
brown with age, was covered by a common pane of glass. 

Farther on we give a copy of the letter, when it will be 
quite evident to the reader that the doctor made the su- 
preme effort of his life to be intellectual, and that it was 
a great strain mentally for him to have produced so bril- 
liant a piece of literature which warned the people to keep 
off of Robert's steamer or take the consequences. In the 
letter he voiced the general sentiments of the people of 
that day, who evidently thought that flat boats were good 
enough for anyone to ride upon. If the doctor was living 
to-day, he would without doubt pay a round sum to have 
people forget that he wrote this letter. And we presume 
he would not rest until every copy of it was destroyed; or 
perhaps instead of destroying it he would secure a copy- 
right upon it, place it on sale and cause the title to 
read like this: "A Freak of the Imagination, and What 
Does it Refer to." This is the letter: 

"A monstrous fish exploded and blew our boat to pieces. 
We escaped with our lives. It blew the fish out of the 
water by millions, threw itself on shore, writhed about in 
agony and tore up trees, in its last throes of giving up 
what little vitality it possessed; after which we struck a 
flint against what seemed like iron, striking fire. We 
found this monster measured 87 feet and 6 inches from 
tail to snout. 

N. B. Take notice. — In the entrails of the fish we found 
an American Barlow penknife which cut both ways." 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 217 

We of the present day say, how strange it was that no 
one was willing to take the trial trip with Robert Fulton 
and his steamboat. But after a time a friend of his con- 
sented to take the trip with him, giving his reason that 
for some time he had been contemplating suicide and if 
he was blown up it would save him the trouble of com- 
mitting the serious deed. 

One of the Saturday rides was taken on the "Johnny 
Bull train." (This short trip was always taken from near 
"Transportation.") The old engine, good as ever, was the 
first one run in the United States. Its whistle sounded as 
loud and as much as posisible like a five-cent tin one. The 
bell sounded like a cow-bell, so we closed our eyes and 
fancied that off in the distance we heard the supper horn, 
and "tunk tunk" of the cow-bell, upon "old Daisy," the 
cow, and saw her wading knee-deep through the clover 
pasture, at last standing by the rail fence lowing because 
'twas milking time. 

The cars, though new, were built to represent the old 
cars of that day. They possessed a certain worn-out ap- 
pearance, and were facsimiles of the cars which this en- 
gine first drew; we stooped when passing through the 
door, and on standing straight could touch the ceiling. 
The windows were composed of two small panes of glass 
set one above the other at the side of each seat. In case of 
rain or cold, wooden shutters were drawn from the bottom 
to the top, leaving one in utter darkness. Common 
damask curtains, tacked to their places with brass-headed 
tacks, covered the upper pane only. The seats were com- 
fortable. They were built of plain wood, with open lattice 
work backs, which was three slats running lengthwise. 
The seats were covered with damask. 

Slowly we moved down its track; in one direction we 
saw the fast train going at lightning speed toward the 
city, on the other side bicycles whirled by. Then greatest of 
all, the electric carriage, which seemed to move as though 
controlled by mind power. Yes, that great power was 
the first cause, or improvements would never have been 
and hasten the day when this magic power shall be so 
practically utilized that we guide, by motor power, heavier 
material than that of carriages. It will on hot days then 
be a solid comfort to ride and feel a power has taken the 
place of over-driven animal kind — a power which neither 
gets hungry, thirsty, sick nor tired, except when its force 
is spent and needs to be renewed by knowledge imparted 



218 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

to the electrician. Impulsively we ask, "when shall we 
sight the end of success, and what will it be even twenty- 
five years from now?" The answer is, aye, put it many 
years sooner than that. 

The capital invested in United States railroads was rep- 
resented in the Transportation Building to be about 
130,000,000,000, representing about one-tenth of the 
wealth of civilized nations. The exhibit entitled "The 
railways of the world," was prepared at a cost of $100,000, 
to show the development of locomotives and cars from 
those of the rudest makes in earliest days up to the pres- 
ent. 

Not far away we saw a model of the town of Pullman, 
Chicago. We passed through their costly palace cars, the 
finest, safest, most convenient and luxurious ever con- 
structed. Their wood- work was veneered in hand- carved 
rosewood, ornamented with hammered brass. The win- 
dows were of heavy plate glass, covered with curtains, 
drawn back, of richest material. The upholstery was of 
heavy brocaded satin, combined with silk velvet. The 
beautiful dining cars were rich with fine snowy damask, 
set with sparkling crystal and solid silver service. The 
ceilings looked like beaten gold. These, combined with 
the conveniences and comforts of their elegant sleepers, 
cannot but give to the tourist a restful trip and a grand 
time. 

In the American exhibit of vehicles was a magnificent 
ebonized hearse manufactured in Chicago, and costing 
$12,000. We would willingly give the name of this firm, 
but it has escaped our memory. 

All foreigners insisted on keeping their exhibits, espe 
cially their vehicles, together; but it gave prestige to 
American makes, and opportunities were better for com- 
paring them with foreign ones; the latter being grand, 
nicely finished in detail, but too heavy, and their work 
made an unfavorable comparison when standing beside 
those of American make, w r hich were lighter, better at- 
tended to in detail, and stronger. 

Dom Pedro's chariot of red and gold was imposing. 
Not far from it was an old Mexican ox cart; its wheels 
were made out of solid round pieces of wood, with holes 
in the center for the cross piece, on which was nailed a 
narrow board. A stuffed ox was hitched to it by means 
of a rope harness, which, fastened to saplings, served as 
whiffletrees. 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 219 

Washington and Monroe's carriages were in good re- 
pair, looked very comfortable and were strongly built for 
the roads when the country was new. 

On the upper floor we found sleds with smooth runners, 
which, it was stated, are used to ride down the hard sandy 
hills of Carro De Monte, of South America. 

We returned to the first floor, went to the southwestern 
side, and saw Watts' first idea of utilizing steam. A 
statement informed us that on steam escaping from the 
tube which ran out several feet from this pumpkin-shaped 
boiler, it was expected the pressure of wind against it 
would cause the wheels upon which it was placed to re- 
volve. We passed on, by trials and discouragements of 
early inventors, at last finding the "horse leg engine" for 
roadways, over which we shed tears from laughing. Thj 
inventor's idea was that the steam, working the pistoa 
rods, attached to legs of iron with huge feet, all fashioned 
precisely upon the principle of horse legs, would cause 
the legs to step along and help push the engine. We 
received a well deserved rebuke from an old gentleman, 
who said that more than likely one hundred years from 
now folks would cry from laughing over our inventors' 
modes and ideas. 

At the extreme south end we found an old Roman road- 
way built 400 B. 0. According to the description given 
of them by Tacitus, this roadway was genuine; it was 
found covered with six feet of moss, while mining in Ger- 
many, 1,000 feet below the surface of the earth. It was 
brought to the Fair just as found. Some ends of the planks 
were nearly rotted away, while others were in perfect 
condition. Enough remained to answer to the question 
of how these ancient roads were built. 

One day we witnessed an unmerciful nagging given by 
a woman to the guard in charge of it. She was a "I-know- 
all-about-it" female. Turning to her husband, she said : 

"John, I am determined to tell that deceivin' guard 
what I think o' him." 

The old man protested, but it was of no avail, so he 
said: 

"You've made one dumb fool o' yerself ter-day askin' 
wher the frame o' the whale was which swallowed Jonah. 
You know we don't know nothin' anyway." 

As Betsey blustered up to the guard her husband, with 
a most discouraged air, walked away, muttering: 

"What's the use of anything? Nothin'." 



220 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR 

To the guard the old woman said: 

"Young man, in the name of truth, and the United 
States of America, I demand to know how you dare tell 
this road was found four years afore Christ. 'Tain't in 
reason, and you know it." 

The tired, but amused guard muttered under his breath 
something which sounded like "cope with ignorance." 
Immediately there was another scene, for she trotted after 
"John" and gave vent to her injured feelings as follows: 

"That sassy feller called me a mope, and I hain't got a 
lazy hair in my head. You know that, don't you, John?" 

"Yes, nor a lazy wag in yer tongue, neither." 

On elevations we saw figures in wax seated on bicycles, 
the wheels running by electricity. We passed through 
an elegantly appointed ocean steamer of the White Star 
Line, looked in on its fine library, and fancied that we saw 
among "the battle of the books" "Six Months at the 
World's Fair." But it was air castle building, always so 
enjoyable while it lasts. Next we visited the smoking, 
dining and sleeping apartments. Then seating ourselves 
on the upper deck w T e took in great breaths of imaginary 
ocean breezes, while we passed through theNicaragua 
canal; for you remember it laid right before you, a wide, 
long model of the contemplated canal. We sailed through 
Lake Nicaragua past the foot of the Kocky Mountains 
and sailed on into the great Atlantic. 

This project was a pet scheme of ex-President Grant's, 
and it is said to be one of President Cleveland's pet 
schemes. We returned and passed through the canal sys- 
tem of New York State. In this exhibit we saw a model 
lock, built of wood, in 1804, but not used, which was still 
in a good state of preservation, 

Next we found bicycles with which one might race by 
paying five cents. Two young men mounted them, racing 
like "grim death," watching the dials move to their colors, 
indicating which would win. It was so exciting, the 
writer fell into the sin, which has always seemed to be 
a natural proclivity, and bet with others of her party, win- 
ning several glasses of mineral (?) water. One thing is 
sure, we thought betting too fascinating for anything, but 
possessing much fortitude and principle, 'tis believed we'll 
never again fall from grace. Anyway, not until the op- 
portunity is again as favorably presented. 

Next was seen and admired Mrs. French-Sheldon's tent 
with all necessary adjuncts for camp life. Her wicker 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 221 

palanquin was tastefully draped and be-pillowed with 
silk. Under the seat was a place for her wardrobe, toilet 
articles, and medicines. In this she rode when carried 
by natives through the wilds of far-off Zanzibar. Alone, 
unaccompanied by any white person, she led and com- 
manded 137 Africans. She personally organized her ex- 
pedition, and walked over 1,000 miles to better command 
her caravan. She visited more than twenty Sultans and 
tribes who had never before allowed audience to whites. 
She gained the confidence and esteem of the hostile 
Masia-Kombo and their warriors, collecting the most 
unique ornaments, vestments, weapons and other ex- 
amples of their native arts and crafts. 

This expedition was made in 1891. In an extract from 
her book, "From Sultan to Sultan," which is very inter- 
esting, she says: 

"A sprightly bronze beauty, according to the accepted 
rule of that country, came up to me, repeating 'Bebe, 
Bebe,' extending her arms, and holding in her hands a 
dried grass beaded necklace. I accepted her proffered gift, 
curious to know what she would demand in return. To 
my astonishment she spit at me. In disgust and indigna- 
tion, I was about to return her present, when Josef in his 
merry way checked me, saying: 

" 'Quite right, Bebe; that is their way of paying you a 
compliment. 7 " 

During the Fair, this gifted woman delivered a lecture 
before the Anthropological Society of Chicago, and the 
officials of the "White City, 77 exhibiting to the delighted 
audience collections from her expedition. A woman who 
can do what this one has done, and write a splendid de- 
scription of it, thoroughly exemplifies what Kate Field 
says of "Woman's sphere. 77 

"They talk about a woman's sphere, 
As though it haa a limit; 
There 7 s not a place on earth or Heaven, 
There 7 s not a task to mankind given, 
There 7 s not a blessing or a woe, 
There's not a whisper, yes or no, 
There's not a life, or death or birth, 
That has a feather's weight of worth, 
Without a woman's in it." 

Cook's excursions into the Holy Land were displayed 
on the first floor by an Arab, who had acted as guide for 



222 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

people of the Cook excursions, for over twenty years. He 
met thousands at the Fair whom he had guided in that 
far-off country, and they re-registered in a new book. 
Every day he gave a lecture on Mohammedanism and ex- 
plained the worship in their temple. He had on exhibi- 
tion a model of a temple which yet stands near the waters 
of the Eed Sea. He said that it was a correct pattern of 
the first temple which the Jews worshiped in. It cor- 
responded with the Bible description given of it. 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 223 



MINES AND MINING. 

The dimensions of this building was 700 by 350 feet, and 
cost $265,000. More than one and a half million pounds 
of steel entered into its construction. 

Frederick J. Skiff, chief of this department, now presi- 
dent of the "Field Columbian Museum," situated in the 
art palace at Jackson Park, is a man of indefatigable 
energy, and in his department at the Fair carried out all 
plans perfectly and successfully in every detail, receiving 
unstinted praise. 

Throughout the Fair he labored powerfully for con- 
tributions to a permanent "World's Fair Museum/' and it 
must have been a proud moment to him, Mr. Field and 
others, when his hard but successful work was crowned 
by an enthusiastic dedication which must have brought 
to the minds of many World's Fair officials memories of 
the year before. In the winter of '93, when using every 
energy toward the success of his department, he and his 
gentle wife were called upon to pass through the bitter 
sorrow of laying away two children, leaving to them a 
babe only a few months old. 

Toward the last of the Fair a reception was given in 
honor of Mr. and Mrs. Skiff in New York's grand State 
building, which was participated in by the officials and 
their friends. On that occasion they presented him with 
an elegant silver service and a cabinet of valuable gems 
from every country in the world. The reply of this re- 
spected and much loved man was as unassuming as that 
of a child. One extract from his speech shows what a 
"gem of the first water" this gentleman is: 

"Ladies and Gentlemen — Whenever we shall look upon 
these sparkling, precious gems, we will remember jewels 
more brilliant and precious than these. They are the friend- 
ships which we have formed with World's Fair friends. 
Whenever Mrs. Skiff and myself shall look upon this 
elegant silver remembrance, and this amazing wealth of 
jewels, the dazzling brightness of these precious souvenirs 
will reflect back to our vision a reminder of this evening, 
and your bright, happy faces beaming with love and kind- 
ness." Stretching his hand toward the gifts, he added: 
"With the kind permission of you all, I present the silver 
service to Mrs. Skiff, who has nobly borne more than half 



224 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

of my burdens. In the darkest hour, when troubles 
weighed the heaviest and clouds hung low and black like 
a funeral pall, which seemed to fairly envelop us both, 
she 'Created a silver lining to them, with cheery and en- 
couraging words. There is not enough wealth in this 
world to pay her for such richness of devotion. In our 
association with World's Fair friends, we all have learned 
better and higher lessons of each other. It is with in- 
tense yearning that we will ever reach out to grasp high 
and holy ideals, which uplifts us to live on higher planes 
here and fits us for the infinite law of love to be lived 
and practiced in the better land. The time is near at 
hand when humanity will not groan in spirit for sym- 
pathy, but the heart-beat of every member of the human 
family will beat with love and the strong desire to be 
truly helpful to each other. Then is when the whole law 
of love will be fulfilled as Christ taught it; when we will 
say to all people, and they in return will repeat the same 
salutation to us, I love you, because it is both Godly and 
Christlike." With regret we leave this scene and return to 
the topic, "The Mines and the Mining Building." 

The largest exhibits made in the United States were 
from Pennsylvania, Michigan, Missouri, California, Mon- 
tana and Colorado. The most noticeable thing in the 
Pennsylvania exhibit was Cleopatra's needle, represented 
in anthracite coal. 

The Michigan exhibit was entered through an arched 
vestibule of solid, beaten copper, decorated with brownies 
peeking down from above. Her main exhibit was copper, 
of which she has the most and finest of any country or 
state in the world. There were shown in the Michigan 
exhibit, great masses of pure copper in the rough, weigh- 
ing hundreds of tons. Michigan's monument was com- 
posed of bright bands of copper several hundred feet in 
height. There were shown tons upon tons of iron ore, the 
finest in the world. A fine showing of gold and silver and 
precious stones from Michigan's northern shores, and ex- 
quisite spars of crystal from her zinc regions. This de- 
partment was in charge of the well-known geologist, Mr. 
Brady, of Detroit, who was assisted by his son Howard. 

Each state and country made its display in pagodas 
and pavilions built of its respective local mineral products. 
Missouri of terra cotta, and California of onyx marble, 
that of lower California being clear as crystal, with moun- 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 225 

tains and other picturesque scenes painted upon it by na- 
ture's lavish hand. 

In the Montana exhibit was their famous silver statue. 
The silver was provided by the First National Bank of 
Helena; New York supplied the model, Miss Ada Behan, 
who came to the prescribed standard of perfect physical 
development; and "Justice," with wide open eyes, modeled 
in silver, looked contending parties fair and square in the 
face, who struggled in her presence, and even now at her 
feet are fair-minded citizens pleading that the differ- 
ence of opinion regarding silver and gold shall be settled 
righteously, so that this political turmoil which is a men- 
ace to the country shall cease. 

Montana, like Idaho, and many other states, is rich in 
unopened mines of silver. That coin was "assassinated 
on February 12, 1873," and that is the great reason capi- 
talists do not invest in silver mines to pay out of them sil- 
ver as a premium on gold, which had the right of unlimited 
coinage when silver was the unit of value, but when gold 
was made a unit of value, silver was not given the right of 
unrestricted coinage, which she, previous to '73, had en- 
joyed with gold." 

Was it fair? No one but the western states are able to 
answer tne question. ' Why are not silver mines worked 
as they once were? Montana's opportunity came at a 
most auspicious time at the World's Fair. She took aim, 
pulled the trigger and fired for free silver, placing in her 
exhibit a figure of Justice, eight feet in height, with a face 
possessing strength of character, typical of the return of 
strength in silver coin. 

About 60,000 ounces of silver were employed in the cast- 
ing, which was done by the American Bronze Go., of Chi- 
cago, for which they were paid f 3,750. It was sculptured 
by Mr. Park, of Chicago, formerly of Florence, Italy, who 
received for his work f 10,000. The figure stood on a silver 
globe, which rested on the largest square of solid gold ever 
cast, valued at $250,000. The intrinsic value of the statue 
was something over |65,000, which, added to the gold 
foundation, presented- in total valuation of the two pre- 
cious metals, f 315,000. 

In her left hand the statue held the traditional scales, 
one filled with silver coin, the other with gold. The scales 
were evenly poised, proving the equality and value of the 
two metals. The right hand grasped the handle of an un- 
sheathed sword which bore the inscription : "Equal rights, 
equal money." 



220 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

Upon the globe was the legend, "One country and one 
dollar." 

It is said, that under the supervision of Mr. Harvey, the 
statue will make a tour of the world, stopping in the prin- 
cipal cities and then be returned to the First National 
Bank of Helena, whose officials will make such disposition 
of it as they see fit. 

On the west side of the gallery was another goddess of 
Justice, "The Aspen silver queen of Colorado." It was 
placed at the point designated because there was no room 
for it in their large exhibit below. It was a beautiful 
combination of gold and silver, and could never be forgot- 
ten by anyone who saw it. Justice was seated in a silver 
chariot, and over her was a silver canopy, trimmed about 
its edge with a fringe of pure gold. Fronting Justice 
were two silver cherubs, pouring out of silver vessels, one, 
coins of silver, the other, coins of gold. Justice held 
scales in which were perfectly balanced, silver and gold. 

Up to 1893 the wealth which Colorado had given the 
world in gold, silver, lead, copper and coal, was $459,015,- 
554. Their smelting and refining works, in 1891, with an 
investment of f 10,000,000, yielded that year in gold, silver, 
lead and copper, $29,264,990. 

In this exhibit was a gold brick valued at $4,800, and 
a smoky, yellow topaz, larger and nearly as brilliant as 
was the diamond in Tiffany's exhibit. 

In Iowa their celebrated marble was shown in an ele- 
gantly carved mantel and fireplace done by the Aldine 
Manufacturing Company, of Grand Rapids, Mich. Sharp 
pointed steel rods, with sockets in them for candles, which 
were ready to light for mining, were stuck about in the 
high, rugged rock. 

A curious exhibit in the Louisiana section was a statue 
of rock salt. The finest iron ore mineral in the world was 
shown in this great building. The United States stands 
first in iron productions. In 1893 exceeding its annual 
production was 10,000,000 tons, which was four times that 
of 1883. From this last named date the production of steel 
in the United States aggregated 5,000,000 tons per year. 
The development in the southern states in iron mining has 
been great and rapid. 

In varieties of lovely shades and colorings were shown 
thousands of polished specimens of United States building 
stone. Greece and Italy showed their cold, white marble 
chiseled into statuary, vases and hundreds of lovely de- 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 22 { 

The exhibit of coal and. other products was one of qual- 
ity, rather than quantity, and was tested for its economic 
value or special adaptability. In marble and building 
stone the test was strength and durability, combined with 
the highest polish. 

A crowd was always about the unique exhibit of the 
Cape Colony Co., who brought with them native workers 
from their diamond mines, and their machinery in which 
they used hundreds of tons of their native soil. These huge 
rocks were studded with diamonds. They did not have 
the machines there for crushing these rocks, which were 
simply exhibits. It would, in truth, have been an un- 
thought of impossibility to have brought these machines 
and shown their work, especially as the exhibits must 
have then gone through many more processes. This ex- 
hibit at the Fair the company did not show on as large a 
scale as in their mines, notwithstanding, it was a small 
mine in full operation. On a revolving shaft, were cups 
bringing up thick black mud, emptying their contents into 
sluiceways, and running thence to shifting screens, where 
an expert picked out the diamonds, placed them in a tray 
and handed them to the first workman, who buried them 
in a wet, soft mass of emory, under which was a fire. 
This last process was the commencement of polishing. 
On removing a stone froim the emory, the expert passed it 
to the next worker who began the cutting; afterwards he, 
too, buried the gem in the emory, and taking it out, passed 
it on to the next polisher, until it had passed through 
about twenty hands. Over half a day is thus consumed in 
polishing one stone. This exhibit and the workers were 
inside a locked glass house. The diamond polishers were 
Americans, but it was a necessity that they should be 
locked in, on account of possible contact with the natives. 
Those last named individuals have to be watched con- 
stantly in their native fields that they do not swallow any 
diamonds. Their woolly heads are shaved in order that 
they may have no chance to hide diamonds in their hair. 

There was shown a large amount of silver ore from the 
famous "Bridal Chamber," said to be the size of a small 
bedroom, of New Mexico. How would you figure the di- 
mensions of it? From this "Bridal Chamber" was pro- 
duced in one year $500,000 worth of silver. 

On the upper floor was the famous Ward geologic ex- 
hibit. There were precious turquoise amid heaps of spark- 
ling diamonds and glittering piles of gems of every color 



228 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

and value. Yes, there were acres of them. There were 
the smooth, round stones, called rolling stones, found in 
Central Africa, very thin shelled, and on being broken 
open, lying loosely in crevices, were hundreds of sparkling- 
crystals. 

There were large flats of crystal from Russia, which is 
used by the Russians in ornamental work. There were 
orange-red crystals from the Pacific coast, deep red gar- 
nets dulled by a coating of mica, from Alaska; fiery opals, 
moonstones and rubies. Here is another chance for some 
one to write a book treating on the valuable gems of the 
Fair. How we loved them and were fascinated, watching 
their constantly changing colors. 

Now there comes to our memory a tall, thin-faced, 
seedily dressed man, who was an intellectual king in his 
knowledge of glittering gems, and rare specimens, his- 
toric of the formation of the world. With a look of per- 
fect rapture, he gazed upon the gems, and said: 

"Fve just ten days to spend at the Fair, and I've spent 
this, my first, right here." 

With a deep drawn sigh he added : 

"And I'd like to come every day the rest of my life, but 
when the time comes for me to go home, I must go and 
take care of the farm, so wife can come." 

The famous Ward exhibit of Rochester, N. Y., is the 
largest private collection of gems in the world. On the 
same floor was the exhibit of the Standard Oil Company, 
showing every variety of crude oils in America. In minia- 
ture models was shown the entire Connellville plant of the 
Frick Coal and Coke Company. 

One part of the gallery reminded us of the scientific de- 
partment of a university museum with all appurtenances 
for assaying and laboratory work. But the one great 
feature of the upper floor was the geological and gem 
display. 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 229 



ELECTRICAL BUILDING. 

The objects which attracted most attention in this de- 
partment was Prof. Gray's marvelous telautograph, and 
Edison's latest devices. These mysterious objects of in- 
terest were located in the gallery, where some of the finest 
exhibits were found. 

On the west side of this building near one of the grand 
staircases, stood a handsome structure decorated in blue 
and silver. In this was situated the telautograph. This 
marvel was invented by one of the most fertile minds 
among American inventors. Not forgetting to give due 
credit to Edison and Bell, we hasten to say that the tel- 
autograph was considered by the officials and visitors of 
the Exposition the greatest wonder accomplished by 
human ingenuity since the days of 1837, when Morse pro- 
duced an instrument which wrote ink signals which were 
sent by wire short distances by electricity. But Prof. 
Gray, after years of labor, gave to the Exposition and to 
the world a perfect machine, which is being used in Phila- 
delphia and other cities. The instruments are precisely 
alike, and may be placed any distance apart; they will 
transmit any writings or drawings, fac-simile of the 
writer. Each instrument carries a strip of paper con- 
trolled by a device, which causes one to follow the move- 
ments of the other. It is very probable that this import- 
ant invention will supersede the telegraph and telephone. 
Newspaper men may send fully written accounts with 
drawings of happenings which may be transmitted direct 
to their office, thus receiving for publication and illustra- 
tion a correct account and idea, with no misunderstand- 
ing, as is frequently the case by telephone or telegraph. 
Diagrams or patterns may be drawn and sent from a 
distant city by the business man to his factory. Often it 
will be the means, and probably in the near future, of 
saving him a forced trip of hundreds of miles. For if 
certain patterns must be used at once for his prosperity, 
it will be a fine thing for him not to be obliged to be 
there personally. Thus is the telautograph a time-saver. 
It is sure to assume its place in the business world, or 
commercial field; then business men will sign checks 
from one city t6 another, make trades, execute deeds* 



230 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

without seeing each other's faces. It is not possible that 
people in general will be long without this convenience. 

Prof. Graham Bell first showed at the Paris Exposi- 
tion, that electricity could and would produce speech at 
a distance. It has long been known that there is no limit 
as to distance in the accomplishment of this feat. Many 
remember the lawsuit over the telephone between Profs. 
Bell and Gray. It was stated by the gentleman who had 
charge of the telautograph, that Prof. Gray was truly the 
inventor of the so-called Bell telephone. The gentleman 
promised us the deathbed confession of the man who 
swore falsely in favor of Bell. But circumstances, which 
were a great disappointment, prevented us from getting 
it, and so we w T ere left in doubt regarding it. 

There was no one so sought for and inquired after as 
Edison, and no one tried harder to avoid people and keep 
out of their sight. It is certain he had no desire for notor- 
iety. He positively refused to hold a reception, or have 
a spread of any kind made in his honor. One day when in 
the Madison Street Station, waiting for his train and 
eagerly conversing with an acquaintance, it was noised 
about who he was, and spectators began to gather about 
him. He fled from them as though they were so many 
Indians on the warpath, and climbed on the car before it 
fairly stopped. It must be that he is bashful; but if he 
could realize what a deep disappointment it was to the 
public not to have the opportunity given them to meet 
the great inventor, he would have put his bashfulness 
aside, for we assure him the interest which the public 
take in wishing to see him is far from being curiosity. 

At the late Paris Exposition his phonograph was the 
admiration and wonder of the hour, though he had inven- 
tions there of more importance, people stood in line for 
hours to hear it talk. His inventions in the "Electricity 
Building" were exhibited commercially by large stock 
companies. There was shown his latest device for pho- 
tographing from afar. His first phonograph, which re- 
corded speech on tin foil, Mr. Edison distinctly realized 
that this device was a scientific toy, and nearly valueless. 
But energetically he worked to bring it to a state of per- 
fection, producing a cylinder of wax, on which a fine 
jewel pointed needle scratched the record. These cylin- 
ders are sufficiently substantial to be transported from 
place to place and are good for nearly four hundred repeti- 
tions, before they are worn out. 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 231 

Curious effects are produced in this machine. A basj 
solo sung into it maybe changed to a galloping soprano 
by accelerating the speed of the machine. It can be ad- 
justed to any sort of music and any time wished for; from 
this fact tests have been and are being made by scientists, 
trying to reach an accurate analysis of various sounds, 
and settle disputed theories regarding sound waves. 'Tis 
said that Edison has, since the Fair, made important im- 
provements upon this instrument. His kinetograph at 
the time of the Fair was not perfected, but we presume 
that long ago it has been. It was intended to be first a 
combination of the receiving phonograph and the camera; 
second a combination of the reproducing phonograph and 
stereopticon. These, combined with his wealth of scien- 
tific knowledge, are intended to produce the speech of the 
orator, at the same time producing photos or scenes in 
quick succession, one after another; one every second. 
This can be applied to a whole opera company. This in- 
strument was not at the World's Fair, as he then was 
working upon an apparatus sufficiently large to produce 
this very thing. 

In the center of the upper floor of the Electricity Build- 
ing, electro-plating in gold and silver was done on all 
metals. The pass pins, penny iron affairs, were plated in 
one-half hour by electricity, making a pretty souvenir. 
In the southwest corner of the gallery was another of 
Edison's exhibits, which was interesting to jewelers. It 
was a machine which engraved pictures, and letters, 
raised or sunken, on flat, convex or concave metals. It 
was so easy to do that a child, after a few moments' in- 
struction, could use the instrument. 

The metal was placed in a ferule, and tightly clamped 
over a metal, jeweled point, which, controlled by the 
electric mechanism, mysteriously reduced or increased 
the size of letters, and raised or lowered them. There 
were electric brushes for headache, and when pressing 
the palm of the hand* on the end of the handle it produced 
a strong current. The price of the brush was $5 and it 
was guaranteed to last ten years. 

This magnificent building contributed more than any 
other to the beauty of the Fair, for without it we should 
have had no illuminations stretching over sixteen hun- 
dred acres of ground. The wondrous and mysterious 
beauty seen in that building surpassed any art of descrip- 
tion. There appeared and disappeared in every fancied 



232 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

color pictures of great men, pillars of fire, and lines of 
fire in changing colors, which ran from one end Of the 
building to the other, fastening their beautiful electric 
mystery onto great whirling balls. From behind an- 
other design a mysterious unseen power moved with the 
orderly mechanism of a human hand, causing light and 
darkness to appear. Myriads of advertisements flashed 
forth, in prismatic or uncertain hues. Near the illumin- 
ated room of colored glass were shown flashes of lightning, 
while roars of thunder were produced by this as yet un- 
explainable power, which may be forever beyond the 
knowledge of anyone to explain the philosophy of. 



" - - -= - - — L 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR 



233 



ANTHROPOLOGICAL BUILDING. 



In this building, which was devoted to "man and bis 
works," although it was a world exhibit, the history of 
America was made especially prominent; comparisons of 
aboriginal customs and others being strikingly illustrated. 

The exhibits from foreign countries were large and of 
rare interest. In the north galleries were laboratories 
devoted to the study of the physical characteristics of the 
races, with specimens and data upon study of the brain 
and nervous system. Apparatus and material was shown 
which illustrated the teachings of psychology. There 
were shown the results of investigation of the growth and 
development of children. There were also shown by ma- 
terial collected from American cities and gymnasiums, 
practical suggestions upon education. Charts indicated 
the physical and educational development of the races, and 
a fine library dealing on anthropological subjects was 
available. 

On the south side, scientifically arranged, so as to best 
convey the educational purpose of the collection, were 
geological specimens of all ages, and models of pre-his- 
toric animals. The walking anaconda reared itself 
twelve feet or more upon its forelegs of great size, and 
rested upon the tail end of its spinal column, which was 
twelve or fifteen feet long. There are times in life (and 
this is "one of them"), that we would fain "skip out," leav- 
ing explanations like this, and others to follow, to the 
scientist, for as no ghosts of the past return to help out 
the writer on so mighty and little understood a subject, 
such explanations as this one and those which will follow 
cannot but be torture and martyrdom to the reader. It 
was a gratifying thought, however, that such creatures 
had been "a long time dead." 

Most of this exhibit belonged to Prof. Ward, America's 
great museum builder. When visiting the museum in St. 
Petersburg, he saw the original skeleton of a great ele- 
phant which existed before the quartenary age, carcasses 
of which have been found in Siberia imbedded in solid ice. 
This was duplicated by Dr. Fraas from bones collected in 
different parts of Europe and from samples of skin and 
hair still existing. This eminent anatomist and geologist 



234 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

most truthfully resurrected this ancient Siberian mam- 
mal. 

Prof. Ward purchased this and the original skeleton 
and transferred them to Rochester, where another dupli- 
cate was reared for World's Fair visitors to gaze on, its 
towering form frowning darkly and fiercely down upon 
them. The specimen was covered with coarse black hair, 
which was longer under the throat than elsewhere on its 
body. This animal of enormous size, covered with hair in- 
stead of a fur-like coat, appeared entirely unlike the mod- 
ern elephant. It stood about eighteen feet high, and meas- 
ured about twenty-eight feet in length; its tusks were fif- 
teen feet long and were fourteen feet apart. Wags were 
ever present to inform those who knew better, and some 
who did not, that the huge modeled skeleton of the whale 
was the one which swallowed Jonah. 

One animal (not knowing its scientific name), we chris- 
tened the "bird snake, and seal turtle." This animal, 'tis 
likely ranked among the first of the air breathing race. 
Its body was like that of a turtle, while upon its sides 
were flippers of the seal ; a sniake-like neck ran up from its 
body about fire feet in height. Attached to the neck was 
a, snake's head with beady eyes; its expression, with its 
head twisted sidewise, reminded us of a bird. Geology 
teaches that birds came from snakes. There were pre-emi- 
nent characteristics of both these animals in some of the 
strange specimens which were seen there. 

Imprinted upon sandstone were four toes and a thumb, 
looking much like the human hand. This was called the 
mark of the "hand-beast." In limestone were marine fos- 
sils, and quantities of coral reefs were conspicuous for 
their great beauty. A little boy was as intensely interest- 
ed in them ais was his father and explained how they had 
been built by little animals which could be seen only with 
a strong microscope. A red-headed, large-mouthed, big 
fellow blurted out: 

"No sich durned thing. Them used to be sponges and 
they're turned to stone." 

Imprinted in upper Devonian were frightful fish of 
many forms, all having teeth. In red sandstone were flat- 
headed ones with tapering, slender bodies like those found 
by the quarry man, Miller, of Scotland, who did such splen- 
did work for science as to receive unstinted praise from 
Agassiz. There were exhibited great oyster shells, the 
meat from one once furnished a steak for a dozen persons. 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 235 

On the east were all known birds, stuffed, and their eggs 
lay in nests; these showed their peculiar modes of nest- 
building. Brilliant specimens! of butterflies were there 
from wherever they are found. 

In staffwork, was a piece of scenery made to represent 
nature. Foliage, shrubs, and flowers were represented on 
rocks, from which water trickled to the green-edged brook 
below. Posing here and there were stuffed animals, 
while peering out of crevices were others in various posi- 
tions; and great snakes were represented twisting and 
squirming about. 

On the floor below were shown all religions, games and 
toys of all times and countries, idols, amulets, and other 
superstitious or semi-religious symbols, all which helped 
to illustrate folk-lore. It was most convincing that games 
of to-day were played in a similar manner by prehistoric 
people. One exhibit, called the Peruvian cemetery, 
showed their mumified remains found in their mounds. 
They had been buried sitting and surrounded by their 
crafts. Their works showed advanced civilization. Their 
pottery was gracefully shaped and artistically decorated 
in colored patterns. Their hammocks were of as good 
quality of twine, and rope, too, as is now made; their linen 
was fine, with embroidery in peculiar patterns. 

From Nova Zembla were shown ebony oars, set the en- 
tire length with mother-o'-pearl. A soup boat, large 
enough to take a ride in, was of the same material and 
decorated like the oars. Great ebony bowls, used by the 
natives in dipping out the soup, were lavishly ornamented 
in the same manner. All these were so smoothly finished, 
artistically shaped, and so richly ornamented that they 
would fitly grace a finely furnished room, and, if only ap- 
propriate, would add to its beauty. 

From Yucatan and other countries were seen utensils 
not unlike those of the Egyptians. These were carved out 
of stone, and were from the stone age. What had served 
them as dishes were carved to represent toads, turtles 
and fish. Their images or gods were carved out of a black 
marble like stone. A wide, long, smooth, flat stone, stood 
four inches high on carved stone legs; upon it lay a long 
and enormous sized rolling pin of stone. The rarest ex- 
hibit shown there was two urns. The smallest topped the 
larger one. In design they were precisely alike. They 
were patterned in an open slat work. Very beautiful and 
smoothly done were all the exhibits in this department, 



236 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR 

and we knew we were looking upon works which had 
been done by a race of advanced civilization; and an 
annihilating sense of insignificance swept over us as we 
thought of the endless procession of races which had pre- 
ceded us and that may succeed us, and Ave rejoice in the 
thought of what an imperial destiny is promised to hu- 
manity, from the fact that society has never receded from 
civilization, but it has ever advanced physically, intel- 
lectually and spiritually, onward and upward to higher 
planes of living. A happy faith is that in the evolution 
of humanity; it is the stuff which confident, sanguine hope 
is made of. Next we looked upon the curious articles 
which had once belonged to the fierce natives in far-off 
Zanzibar. This exhibit was owned by Mrs. French- 
Sheldon, who secured them of the natives after gaining 
the consent of the chiefs of the many different tribes. 
There were shown bells which are worn by the little 
black babies to encourage them to walk. There were wigs 
made of weeds, and feathers which are worn by the 
natives, and fig leaf aprons, which are worn by the women 
and men too. There were bracelets made of pieces of 
brass and shells, anklets and girdles of beads, very dash- 
ing hair ornaments and beautiful spears. Mrs. Sheldon 
is a very wonderful woman. She traveled through the 
wilds of Africa and commanded a band of one hundred 
and thirty-six natives. She managed to secure the con- 
fidence of the terrible Chief Eombo, and others as much 
to be feared. She was the first white person that was ever 
allowed by the chiefs to watch their subjects make spears 
and knives and do smith work upon jewelry, etc. At all 
formal palavers held with the chiefs she appeared in a 
magnificent white silk ball gown, which had a long train. 
They felt very much honored in having so great attention 
paid to them, and in turn appeared in all of their finery. 
More is told of this brave woman in the topic of the Trans- 
portation Building. She has written a very interesting 
book upon the modes of life lived by the natives of that 
far-off country. The title of the book is "From Sultan to 
Sultan." 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 23T 



ADMINISTRATION BUILDING. 

Situated in this "gem of architecture" were the many 
offices of administration, which were reached by grand 
staircases or elevators. If blessed with a permit to walk 
in the balustraded inner balcony, one could behold in full 
the mural paintings of the dome. 

In the center of the building rested the "Treasury 
House," like that in Washington. It was composed of 
Columbian half dollars, which were sold as souvenirs at 
one dollar. On the octagon-shaped walls, in spaces near 
the dome, were the names of early discoverers and inven* 
tions, such as these: 

"The mariner's compass came into general use in navi- 
gation in 1272." 

"Gunpowder was first emploved in European warfare 
about 1325." 

"Gutenberg introduced the art of printing from move- 
able type in 1450." 

"Copernicus explained his theory of the solar system in 
1543." 

"Newton published his discovery of the law of gravita- 
tion in 1687." 

"Watts patented his invention of the condensed steam 
engine in 1769." 

"Jenner discovered vaccination in 1796." 

"Morse invented the electric telegraph in 1837." 

Above the four outside entrances were inscriptions his- 
toric of Columbus. These inscriptions informed the in- 
numerable spectators gathered from the four corners of 
the universe, that "Columbus was born in Genoa in 
1446 and went to sea at the age of fourteen." 
The correct wording of the second inscription we 
cannot give, but it referred to Queen Isabella dis- 
posing of her jewels, in order to give Columbus 
financial assistance in fitting out his fleet to sail to the 
land which she, with Columbus, believed "lay asleep upon 
the ocean's breast." The third stated that "Columbus 
sailed from Palois with three small vessels and landed on 
one of the Bahama islands on October 12, 1492." Lastly 
that "Columbus after discovering the new world made 
three other trips and died at Valladolid, Spain." 

Robert M. Hunt, of New York, president of the Ameri- 



238 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

can Society of Architects, was the architectural designer 
of this building. The sculptor of the group was Karl Bit- 
ter, of New York. On the small domes were represented 
Commerce, Industry, Justice, Religion, War, Peace, 
Science and Art. On the corner pavilions were Charity, 
Truth, Strength, Abundance, Tradition, Liberty, Joy, Dili- 
gence, typical of the past and present of "the new world." 

On the west side of the building, suspended in a frame, 
was the new "Liberty Bell," composed of gold and silver 
heirlooms, which were contributed by people from all over 
the world. It was rung every day at noon, and in its sweet 
chime were ringing notes of supreme joy, which seemed 
to sing forth its suggestive inscription: "A new law r I 
give unto you that ye love one another." On its edge was 
the same inscription as is on the old liberty bell. On 
state day celebrations, it was rung with ribbons of red, 
white and blue by young ladies of each State. On Michi- 
gan day it was rung by Misses Jennie and Louise Flynn, 
of Detroit; the Misses Burt, daughters of Hon. Wellington 
R. Burt, of Saginaw; Misses Leah Beach and Mattie War- 
ren, of Flint, and Miss Grace Belden, of Horton. 

In the archway of the east entrance stood a heroic fig- 
ure of Columbus on a pedestal fourteen feet high. It was 
commenced by Louis St. Gaudems, brother of the great 
modern sculptor, but he being unable to finish it, Miss 
Mary Lawrence, a pupil of Augustus St. Gaudens, did the 
work under his direction. On Columbus' hands were 
gauntlets ; in the uplifted right hand, the standard of Cas- 
tile and Aragon ; in the left, a sword pointing downward. 
Over his armor was a cloak, which seemed gently blown 
"back by the breezes. The artist's idea was admirably 
conveyed. His countenance showed deep-lined anxiety 
and toil, which was forgotten and nearly lost sight of in 
the proudest moment of his life, when taking possession 
of America. 

He discovered a portion of a world within itself, which 
waited for the onward march of civilization to reveal its 
•stretch of fertile plains, sufficient to feed millions; its in- 
exhaustible mines stored with treasures and precious 
metals; its majestic mountains and timber-covered hills, 
w r hose sides were watered by babbling brooks running into 
the valley's mighty waters, on which now sail majestic 
ships of all nations, carrying on commerce upon every sea. 
We are proud of our birthplace, the home of liberty, and 
trust it will ever be the land where true merit makes the 



'i 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 239 

man; where honest worth may win all 'honors, starting 
from the humble home to arrive at last to the culmination 
of success, at the nation's capitol. Our nation and her 
institutions, are masterpieces created by the human mind, 
which was given a deep knowledge of wisdom by the Great 
Father of love, to whom be "glory and dominion forever 
and forever." 

Too true it seems to be of some people of this prophetic 
age that they are unwilling to read or hear anything which 
savors of Christianity, but we truly believe that they are 
making a fatal mistake in slighting and insulting God, 
nay forgetting Him, Who from the beginning of our na- 
tion's history, has extended His marvelous, watchful care 
over it in peculiarly wonderful ways. And we firmly as- 
sert to the thousands of scoffers walking after their own 
lusts and saying: "Where is the promise of His coming? 
for since the fathers fell asleep all things continue as they 
were from the beginning of the creation." Do they watch 
and study closely a the signs of the times" . and wait? 
Wait! for a great and grand change in the affairs of this 
earth is coming. Let us be serious and not court ignorance 
concerning this matter. It is time for God's people, yea, it 
is time for all people to awake from the belief that there 
is "peace, peace, where there is no peace." Do not fail to 
let your knowledge shine forth regarding these things; 
do not shamefacedly hide it, but earnestly cry forth the 
tidings as did John the Baptist nearly nineteen hundred 
years ago. "Repent ye, for the kingdom of God is at 
hand." Every eye shall see Him and His coming shall be 
as the lightning is from the east to the west and there 
shall be new heavens and a new earth, wherein dwelleth 
unselfish, loving people, and all will be helpful to each 
other. 



240 SIX MONTHS AT TI'E WORLDS FAIR. 



THE ILLUMINATION. 

When standing in the "Court of Honor," viewing that 
beautiful scene, typical of the departed glory and 
grandeur of Rome and Venice, only this soulful sight was 
on a scale a million times larger, we echoed the sentiment 
of the first telegraph message sent over the the first line: 
" What hath God wrought !" Cultured scholars exclaimed. 
"The grandeur of this place, or any other in the beautiful 
'White City/ we lack in eloquence of tongue or pen to 
describe, and not half of this city's great glory to mortals 
will ever be told." Often we heard it remarked when in 
the Court of Honor, "I wonder if this is not typical, in part, 
of the Heavenly City?" 

One evening we listened to one of the many fine con- 
certs in "Sylvan Dell," which on that particular evening 
was given by thirty Alabama minstrels, who sang typical 
songs of the South and represented pickanniny dancing. 
This was interspersed by selections given by the Mexican 
string band. The sweet, ecstatic strains of melody placed 
us in a state of blissful happiness for the rest of the de- 
lights of the evening. 

We strolled through the "Wooded Island," soon coming 
to the illuminated Japanese gardens. There hanging 
everywhere were festoons, stars, anchors, and other de- 
signs. Dotted over the grass were small colored lamps, 
which shone like so many fireflies. This effect was pro- 
duced by Japanese oil, resting in colored glasses, which 
burned for hours, enhancing the beautiful flower-beds 
scattered about. 

Here and there we heard music, while on the green, 
among the trees, danced gauzily dressed fairies. It was 
indeed like fairyland. We crossed the White Bridge, 
guarded by white polar bears, walked a broad road be- 
tween two marble-like buildings, the "Electricity" and 
"Mines and Mining." 

Before us stood the "gem of architecture," the "Admin- 
istration Building." Our childish fancy of the "New 
Jerusalem" came to us as we gazed on its golden dome, 
and its figures from mythology, with outstretched arms, 
and in many other attitudes, looking like Parisian mar- 
ble, every fold of drapery hanging perfect in its place, 
the whole crowned with hundreds of electric lights. 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 241 

Softly some one would sing: 

"I have read of a beautiful city, 
Far away in the kingdom of God." 

Then the question was suggested to the mind : "I won- 
der if this is not typical of it?" 

We felt light as air, our minds were filled with noble 
and elevating aspirations. A "quivering, rosy light," like 
that which Sir Galahad saw when searching for the "Holy 
Grail," fell across the MacMonnies fountain. 

"Bose-red with beatings in it, as if alive," it rested on 
fair "Columbia," seated in the "Pinta," which represented 
the barque of Progress. It was heralded by Fame, stand- 
ing in the prow, and it was represented as being rowed 
by the geniuses of civilization, Old Time, representing, 
experience, kept a firm and steady hand on the rudder. 

As they sailed, the breeze seemed to rustle their drap- 
eries,, and gods, goddesses, sea centurions, and mermaids 
gathered about the barque as they rose classic and white 
out of the water, which poured down the marble steps 
into the lagoon, where electric boats were guided by 
electricity's mysterious power. It reminded us of the 
story, in which the two girls glided to the "other shore" 
when "beyond the gates." 

Gaily dressed gondoliers, plying their boats, flitted up 
and down the stream, while senoritas gave languishing 
glances from their dark eyes as they leaned luxuriously 
against silken cushions, andsenors twanged the guitar, 
singing heart-breaking love songs. 

Traveling about was the wonder of the age, "The Water 
Bicycle." Presiding majestically, ninety feet in air, was 
the golden "Statue of Liberty." Back of her, the grand 
Peristyle. On its cornices, reaching from "Music Hall" 
to the "Casino," were the statues of the old masters of 
art, music and literature. 

We wandered about on marble terraces, and seemed 
to walk on sands of crystal, gazing at the paintings of 
Millet, which graced every archway, or upon the classic 
figure of Diana, pirouetting in the breeze. Queer people 
from "Midway" elbowed their way through the crowds. 
Javanese, from under their scanty robes, showed their 
brown legs, and calmly puffed cigarette smoke into the 
faces of the curious. Dark-eyed Egyptian flower girls 
stared through long, black veils. There were seen Es- 
quimaux women, dressed in American calico, their hats 
trimmed in colors outrivaling the rainbow; people from 



24:2 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

the Ceylon Isle; Indians in war-paint and feathers; richly 
robed, jabbering Turks and Bedouins. All this reminded 
us of the Bible prophecy, worded something like this : 

"And in the last days He shall gather together all the 
nations of the earth," "and the lights shall be red in the 
day of His coming." 

On each side of the MacMonnies fountain were electric 
fountains, each throwing a stream ninety feet high, in 
constant changing colors of purple and red, then shaping 
into golden sheaves of wheat, which looked like Venetian 
crystal. 

In the "Court of Honor," and spread over the great 
"Plaza," as far as the eye could reach, on bridges, roofs 
and balconies, it was a mass of people. The brilliantly 
illuminated battleship "Illinois" threw a huge search- 
light, which was answered from "Machinery Hall," while 
the largest searchlight in the world, which was on "Lib- 
eral Arts," alternated in lighting up the lake and land for 
miles. Waves of melody were wafted miles out upon the 
lake from chimes in "Machinery Hall" and "Liberal 
Arts." At one time was heard the sweet, old refrains of 
"Nearer, My God, to Thee," and "Sweet Hour of Prayer," 
then in mournful cadence "The Vacant Chair." 

On this typical Venetian night the "World's Fair" choir 
of six hundred voices, directed by Prof. Tomilson, and 
accompanied by the Cincinnati band of sixty pieces, sang 
"Abide with me, fast falls the eventide," and "I would not 
live alway;" it seemed we would live always amid such 
surroundings. These were followed by other hymns, and 
hundreds of thousands who were there will never forget 
their favored condition on that night of perfect happiness. 

When Prof. Tomilson announced "America," the band 
sounded the key, and the vast multitude, full of emotion, 
sang America's "Hymn of the Republic" as it was never 
sung before. The vast choir arose to their feet, waving 
time with their music. On coming to the closing line, all 
looked up towards the vault of Heaven, while men, with 
white, impassioned faces gave long, loud cheers, which 
ended in sobs. Women and children waved their hand- 
kerchiefs, crying aloud, while others, with tears of rever- 
ential love streaming down their cheeks sang, "Great 
God, Our King." 

The reign of enchantment was in full sway. The 
shadows had ascended from the feet of the golden Statue 
-of Liberty up past the cap upon her spear, and the effigies 



r ■' 



■ SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 243 

of art, science and religion, shone above the Peristyle. 
Darkness had become mysteriously luminous, distant 
domes were translucent with interior flame, cornices, 
pediments, and colonnades were traced in golden beads 
of fire; pallid pinnacles were etched upon the ebony sky, 
a long light leaped across the lake, and a wild cataract 
of brilliant colors from the electric fountain leaped ninety 
feet in the air. In a delirious dream of joy we seemed to 
drift about .in a world of glorious lights. It was of that 
ethereal beauty which seemed to belong to things not 
wholly of this earth and we felt an incomprehensible 
affinity to something w r e had read, seen or dreamed of. 
Was it in a previous existence? On the dome of Agricul- 
ture Diana danced in the breeze like a thing of life. En- 
chanted we gazed upon her and waited for an arrow to 
whiz over our heads from her bow. There stole over us 
an exquisite contentment and delight, a feeling which 
was akin to our young, happy days, as we looked upon 
the electrical fountains fling into the air gorgeous col- 
umns of liquid fire, then colored spirals, glowing in in- 
tense orange and green, then crept up from the bottom 
over the tiny sprays, crimson, uniting in arches, then it 
separated in a shower of silver, which, as it fell, formed 
into seemingly golden crystalized sheaves of wheat. In 
the eastern arch of the Administration Building the 
statue of Columbus, holding out the flag of Castile, seemed 
to quiver with life, and in pride repeat, "This is my coun- 
try, and I have returned to see it in grandeur undreamed 
of." The subtle pathos of this transitory beauty and 
splendor made an impression too deep for expression, 
for there was conceived, created and loved an ideal which 
has vanished like the insubstantial fabric of a vision. It 
gleamed like a marvelous mirage, then it disappeared, to 
be seen no more. All this glory has vanished like the 
flowers, the rainbow or a radiant sunset, which reminds 
us of Burns' epitaph upon the snowflake in the river, "one 
moment white, then gone forever." 



2J4 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 



AGRICULTURAL BUILDING. 

This palace of architecture was 500 by 800 feet, and the 
annex was 300 by 500 feet. The total cost was $618,000. 
It was one of the magnificent and striking structures of 
the Exposition. It stood near the shore of Lake Michigan, 
and faced the "Court of Honor." Its longest dimensions 
lay east and west. Its architectural design was bold and 
heroic. 

On each side of the main entrances were mammoth 
Corinthian pillars 50 feet high, and 5 feet in diameter. A 
magnificent colonnade connected the "Agricultural Build- 
ing" with "Machinery Hall;" near here was located the 
stock pavilion and "Forestry Building," which were sit- 
uated near the stations of the intramural railroad. 

Farmers could not but be pleased with their reception 
and treatment by World's Fair managers, in this their 
building and in all others. 

Since the Centennial a great advancement has been 
made in agricultural progress, and since then it has been 
honored with department representation in the President's 
Cabinet. Experiment stations are now connected with 
the agricultural colleges of the country, with trained scien- 
tists and educators, which are supported by the govern- 
ment, thus reaching out into all fields of scientific re- 
search, assisting in a practical way those engaged in farm 
work, and advancing the interests of this great industry 
which occupies a foremost place in the estimation of man- 
kind. 

Irrigation was first a rude invention of the Egyptians. 
Its possibilities to-day are of intense interest. At the 
Fair the subject was presented in so practical and com- 
prehensive a manner as to be entirely convincing as to its 
uses in stimulating production, and converting barren 
lands into fertile fields. The valuable results which have 
followed from the immense live stock exhibit at the Fair 
are very flattering and can hardly be estimated. The 
popularity of, and interest taken in farmers' institutes 
everywhere, by outsiders ais well ais those in farming com- 
munities, indicates rapid progress in agricultural thought. 
Great interest is shown throughout the country in Arbor 
day. This excellent practice, though forcibly illustrated 



-r 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 245 

in many states, should receive far more encouragement 
than it does. 

The eastern portion of the main floor was occupied by 
agricultural and food exhibits of foreign nations. Nearly 
the remainder of this floor was possessed by cereals and 
other farm products from the states and territories. 

On nearly ten acres of floor were displayed the farm pro- 
ducts of the world, showing energy and advanced culture 
of agriculture, in unending variety. Each exhibit was 
accompanied by the following data : Name of object; name 
of producer; where grown; character of the soil; date of 
planting; quantity of seed planted per acre; method of 
cultivation; date of harvesting; yield per acre; weight; 
price of product at nearest market ; average temperature ; 
rain or snow fall by months between planting and har- 
vesting; was irrigation employed? 

In the annex, on six acres of floor, was every description 
c f the best and most improved farm machinery in use, and 
enough is known of the farming implements used in primi- 
tive times to illustrate the progress of industry up to the 
present. In the east end were working colonies of bees, 
and exhibits of honey; on the west were exhibits of the 
brewery industries. Situated by these were magnificent 
collections of flours, meals, breads, pastries, sugars, con- 
fectionery, canned goods, oils, soaps, chocolates, tobacco, 
and limitless amounts of manufactured food products. 

The association of American agricultural colleges, and 
experiment stations, occupied nearly 8,000 square feet. It 
was located in the southwest corner on the first floor, and 
represented the entire work of a model agricultural ex- 
periment station, covering the whole field of experiment 
and research in crops, botany, horticulture, entomology, 
feeding stuffs, animal nutrition, dairy solids, milk testings, 
veterinary science, beside a botanical, biological and 
chemical laboratory. This combined exhibit, graphically 
illustrated the work, and the special field covered by each, 
and gave a vast amount of information which was, and 
now is, of incalculable benefit to many thousands, who 
learned what crops are best adapted to different localities 
and reasons for them, the most approved methods of culti- 
vation, and how best results are secured. 

The foreign governments and states of the Union housed 
their exhibits in beautiful temples. Their streets ran 
north, south, east and west, and made of it a veritable city 
of pavilions and pagodas. 



246 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

Iowa's pavilion was supported by representations of 
mottled marble pillars, which were glass cylinders filled 
with seedlings. "lis hoped some one, who is capable, will 
contribute writings for a book upon this city of buildings, 
and their collections. It possessed too much instructive 
and artistic beauty in architecture and tasteful arrange- 
ment to be lightly passed by. The writer feels her utter 
inadequacy to develop in thought, or bring before the 
mind's eye the invaluable benefits which were gained by 
those interested in agriculture, and were the telling of it 
entrusted to her, instead of to an experienced farmer, much 
would be lost and nothing would have been gained. 

Some of the private booths, especially one for a wine 
exhibit, cost more than $25,000 apiece. The British ex- 
hibits contained grain from their experimental stations, 
showing the effect of artificial fertilization on the various 
seeds. They gave a great display of hemp, manilla, flax, 
jute, tobacco, etc. 

The Liebig, and other exhibits of "concentrated extract 
of beef," and canned meats, were large. In a refrigera- 
tor as large as an ordinary house, were preserved dressed 
meats of various sorts. These were American exhibits. 
Americans and English showed fertilizers, chemical ma- 
nures, phosphates, and alkalies, malt liquors of all kinds; 
and with the Scotch and Irish showed whiskeys, old Bour- 
bon, old rock and old rye, which caused many under its 
influence to sing: " 'Tis whiskey, 'tis whiskey that makes 
you feel so frisky." But imbibers, why not be practical 
and remember: "Oh what a difference in the morning." 

The outer decorations of this building need no com- 
ments. Indeed, it is impossible to describe its beauty. 
To us, either in the daytime or nighttime, 'twas proudly 
classic. On the sides of the main entrance were great 
female figures of "Abundance and Fertility." Above was 
a frieze of horses, oxen, sheaves of grain, scythes, etc. 

The artists who executed the mural paintings were G. 
W. Maynard and H. F. Schladermundt. The graceful 
and classic statuette of "Diana," on the central dome, was 
the work of August St. Gaudens, of New York, an artist 
of too much note to need particular mention. He sculp- 
tured the Lincoln statue, which stands in Lincoln Park, 
Chicago, and is the designer of many graceful and noted 
works. "Diana" as a work of art was, perhaps, more 
admired than any other. So strong was the impression 
that this goddess fairly lived that her appearance as a 






SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 24T 

whole seemed to indicate she might, at any moment, sail 
aw^ay, soaring towards heaven's vaults, and be forever lost 
to earthly view. 

Philip Martina produced for many different buildings, 
twenty single signs of the zodiac, twenty figures of 
" Abundance," two of the "Seasons," four of the "Nation," 
and a horse and cattle group. One very noticeable group, 
standing on the front roof of the "Agricultural Building," 
heroically outlined, was that of a yoke of oxen, a woman 
standing between, holding them apart by their horns. 

Samantha's drawing of this, given in her book, entitled 
"Samantha at the Fair," was an effort which she should 
ever be proud of. The writer has only one criticism to 
offer. If Samantha could have removed the strained, 
lengthwise grin upon the woman's face and caused it to 
have a more oblique expression, in the gigantic opinion of 
the writer, emanating from her brain of conceited propor- 
tions, she might have made it, colossally speaking, more 
imposing, and might have come closer to the idea of what 
Martina, in this noble conception of thought conveyed, but 
if he is suited, and feels in no libelous spirit toward her, 
then we have failed in arousing any sentiment against 
Samantha's "art." 

Martina's domestic animals graphically illustrated the 
purpose of this fine building, as they did wherever seen. 
Larkin C. Mead accomplished many fine works of art. Far 
above the main entrance were agricultural growths mod- 
eled in marble by his skillful hands. "The return of Pros- 
perine from the Realms of Pluto," on the pediment of this 
building, was another of his numerous rare works of art. 



248 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 



MACHINERY HALL. 

"The heart of the Fair throbbed in Machinery Hall," 
infusing light and life to every part of the Exposition. 
In the great engine room were fifty-two boilers, the larg- 
est ones ever made. All of them worked under a pressure 
of one hundred and twenty-five pounds to the square inch. 
The fuel used was oil, so there was an entire absence of 
dust, ashes, or the usual smudge of an ordinary engine 
room. The floors were always clean, and the men were 
cleanly dressed who worked here. The prevailing valve 
used on the engines was the Corliss. The huge engine 
which furnished the power for the largest searchlight in 
the world, was manufactured by Shuckert & Co., a Ger- 
man firm. This, as we know, was on the "Liberal Arts 
Building," and the engine which caused it to throw out its 
wonderful light was an English exhibit, which made 
about four hundred revolutions a minute. It possessed a 
triple compound of three hundred and sixty horse-power. 
As we watched the mighty thrusts of the connecting rod, 
we had grave doubts of its safety. Nevertheless it proved 
to be perfectly safe. 

It would be a big job for the "village blacksmith" to 
punch a three-inch hole through a heated iron, while some 
machines in Machinery Hall bit it out of cold iron as 
though it were so much cheese. Another attack upon the 
ancient blacksmith by the machinist and electrician, was 
the electric welding machine, shown by the Thomas Elec- 
tric Welding Company in the "Electricity Building." 
The principle involved was causing electricity to pass 
through points brought together which would weld the 
smallest link in a lady's neck chain, or the huge anchor 
chain of a ship. This was entirely beyond the range of 
the forge or furnace. The process is unlimited; railroad 
crossings, frogs, and joints, can be solidly welded by 
electricity. So can the boiler head of a locomotive, or any- 
thing which would need this process, be welded by this 
magic force. 

In this building were manufactured the heaviest parts 
of machinery, and the most delicate parts of sewing 
and other machines. In the machine shops were 
mechanics from nearly every industrial nation. The large 
German exhibit, the workmanship of their mechanics, 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 249 

and the Krupp gun, of the Krupp Building, must have 
caused every German heart to thrill with pride. Even 
American machinists expressed their admiration, because 
it and their work was on a par of excellence and perfec- 
tion. 

The machines of the Morton Manufacturing Company, 
of Muskegon, Mich., were interesting and novel. It is 
an unsatisfactory and laborious job for most machinists 
to chip or file a key seat. Their machinery dispensed with 
all these crude methods. They exhibited from their ma- 
chines reamers, punches, gauges, taps, dies, scales, micro- 
meters, and numerous fine tools of all kinds. 

Brown & Sharp, of what city we do not know, exhibited 
a measuring machine with a microscope attachment, by 
which the one hundred-thousandth part of an inch could 
be measured. While foreigners showed strong, durable 
work, yet that of Americans, light and neat, combined 
foreign methods with improved ones of their own. They 
showed great economy in the use of material, in space, and 
lightness of construction. On comparing the manner in 
which rivets were hammered in boilers of German, 
French and other foreign makes, it was found the Ameri- 
can workman did a neater job and as secure a one, which 
was demonstrated in the boilers manufactured by the 
Wickes Bros., of Saginaw, Mich. Their boilers were ex- 
hibited in the "Horticultural" and "Illinois" buildings. 
These, like those made by the Heine & Krowsell boiler- 
makers, of Chicago, were constructed wholly of steel, 
producing a combination of lightness, strength and dura- 
bility. 

In Machinery Hall was woven fine silks for the Stevens 
Silk House, of Chicago. Thousands of yards of these fine 
textured goods, in rare, rich colors, were so tastefully ar- 
ranged in "Liberal Arts" that their splendor detracted 
from other exhibits. Hundreds of people said it was the 
finest display there. Through carding machines, then out 
of others rolled fleecy rolls of cotton batting. 

The large paper evaporating machine consumed fifteen 
tons of water per hour. It made paper out of bass wood, 
poplar and pine, reeling off hundreds of yards of paper 
in a day. Tired of watching huge, swiftly revolving 
wheels, and hearing the clanging of machinery, we hied 
ourselves away to a quiet spot, where stood an old Kamage 
press, one hundred and fifty years old, which came from 
South Carolina. It had been used by Benjamin Franklin. 



250 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

Doubtless quantities of corn and tobacco money had been 
printed upon it. 

Near this exhibit we met Gardarelli, an Italian from 
South Carolina, who showed an intensely interesting fire 
escape, which had been patented six years. He showed 
by the model that it could be placed in the narrowest 
alley, and be elevated to any height, twenty stories, more 
or less. The machine cost f 5,000, more or less, according 
to the number of stories it is wanted for. 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 251 



FORESTRY BUILDING. 

One bright July morning friends from California, Wis- 
consin and Indiana joined us in a trip over the "Intramur- 
al." Very enjoyable was our trip "around the world." In 
the distance we saw Turkey, and nearer yet, Germany. 
Our route carried us past France, and cut through Idaho, 
Utah, Iowa,, and other states and countries. Happy morn- 
ing hours. We stopped at the stock pavilion to see the 
proud stepping, best blooded stock in the world. While 
walking around the railing which enclosed the circle we 
saw a horse, black as night, with shining coat, who 
bounded as light as air as he responded to his master's 
commands. In proud condescension he conferred these 
favors upon his master and the audience, seeming to know 
full well that he was the "star" actor of the ring. 

We are unable to give the name of the man from Michi- 
gan who made such a fine display of stock. Two of his 
beautiful bays, precisely alike, daintily stepped along, fol- 
lowed by their colts, who were f ac-similes in form and 
color, of their mothers. One of the mares trotted up to 
the railing and rubbed its nose against the cheek of a little 
woman; she said, "You beautiful creature," and added 
"You darling colties," too. She caressed them and at the 
same time talked to them, after the manner of talking to 
intelligent people. They arched their necks, then nodded 
their heads. They looked at her out of their beautiful 
brown eyes, and expressed in many ways that they quite 
understood her conversation. In the meantime the re- 
maining mother of one of the little beauties had come up 
to the little woman and insisted upon receiving her share 
of caresses too ; with her nose she pushed the lady's hands 
away from the others and whinnied for notice. This cir- 
cumstance was proof positive that animals quickly know 
those who truly love them. The man in charge said: 
"Madam, an honor has been conferred upon you. These 
noble, high-born mothers were inclined to drop their aris- 
tocracy with you and did so. They are brought up to be 
not at all common in showing interest in people, but 
horses know their friends, and these have paid to you their 
compliments, of which you may be proud, for these high- 
blooded, breeded horses are taught to be particular about 



252 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

being caressed and to allow no familiarities. The most 
exclusive person in the world does not inherit prouder in- 
stincts than do finely bred horses." 

The Arabian riders galloped in on their "darlings," who 
moved like a dream. Next came horses of Russia, draw- 
ing their drivers in two-wheeled drags, then followed four 
of the smallest ponies in the world, driven by the little 
daughter of their owner. 

How all cheered the "babies," and on leaving the pa- 
vilion, we went to the tent where the little ponies were 
kept, which was near the Michigan logging camp, where 
were seen many of these diminutive animals, and we 
hugged them to our hearts' content. A sweet-faced young 
girl rested her cheek against, the nose of a darling one, 
while the fine-looking young man who accompanied her 
said, with a discontented look upon his face: 

"Minnie, it enrages me, beyond power of words to de- 
scribe my feelings, to see you hug that little dwarf horse 
as though there was nothing in the world better to place 
your affections on than that little beast." 

"Well," said she, "I never had more value received for 
honest affection than from this, my pony." 

"Have you bought it?" 

"Yes, and he returns to Detroit with me, as soon as the 
stock show is over." 

"Well, dear, I never thought to have my love for you 
compared, or even placed on a lower scale than that of a 
little beast of a pony." 

"Don't be sentimental, George, if you love me you must 
love my pony." 

The writer has presumed on the good nature of "Minnie" 
and "George." But they are in luck that more was not 
told, for they know I have not told the half what they said. 
From here we went to the Forestry Building. It was a 
bark covered affair, of the rustic order of architecture, 
measuring 200x500 feet. On all four sides was a spacious 
veranda supported by columns twenty-five feet in height 
These columns were tree trunks, left in nature's condition, 
and they were contributed from every part of the world, 
Michigan's contributions being white pine, bass-wood and 
maple. The outer covering of the building and its roof 
was original and unique. The roof was thatched with 
hemlock bark, and the building was sided with the same 
m aterial. In the building's interior a wonderful harmony 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 253 

in colons and finish was created by natural woods, polished 
and oiled, which left strong and pleasant impressions. 

The first exhibit to attract attention was a mammoths 
log of mahogany from Cuba. It scaled four thousand 
feet, board measure. It was purchased by C. E. Eames,, 
of London, England, for $1,150, and the freight to its des- 
tination added $250 more to its cost. 

The exhibit of the Albro Bros., of Cincinnati, Ohio,, 
consisted of highly polished pillars and panels of the 
most valuable foreign woods — satin, ebony, mahogany,, 
etc. Near here we found the largest plank in the world. It 
was California redwood of the Sequoia family, and its 
owners and exhibitors, Berry Bros., of Detroit, were kept 
busy answering numerous questions regarding it, which, 
were asked by thousands of people who saw and admired 
its beautiful color and finish. 

Further on we found Prof. Jessup's collection, of New 
York. It consisted of specimens of all the native woods 
of the States and Territories, which were polished upon 
one side and left rough upon the other. 

Across from this was the Morley Bros/ exhibit, of Sagi- 
naw. We examined all of the various implements which 
are manufactured by this firm which are used in harvest- 
ing the products of the forest. 

Adjoining this exhibit was that of the King of Siam. 
We walked between walls of bamboo, and gazed upon 
pyramids of curiously woven baskets, the wood fibres,, 
then trees with warty extensions upon them from which 
bowls are made. 

We were required to judge the value of these articles by 
their price marks, which were very high priced; some 
pieces of their merchandise were marked $400 apiece, 
others $600, then in lower rates; $50 for a "souveenyer," 
as they were sometimes called by those who are par- 
ticular in their pronunciation. Sometimes it was a Massa- 
chusetts or Connecticut citizen. But such "breaks" were 
confined mostly to New Yorkers and Bostonians. This 
would seem to infer that the writer has tried to say some- 
thing "funny." We apologize for so heavy and bilious 
an attempt to prevaricate regarding some of the beloved 
citizens of the Eastern States, and possibly some from 
other States, may be considered fully as guilty in the way 
in which they pronounced souvenir. It was like this, 
"Sovereigns are mighty expensive." A West Virginian 
made this remark. It is intended bv the writer to be 



254 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR 

funny, but a clumsy offense has again been given, and 
we must climb out of an embarrassing difficulty, for if an 
American is perusing this page we can fancy him white 
and choking with rage, grinding his teeth, at the same 
time clinching his fists, and at last shouting, "Life is short 
for the American citizen who writes out for us an English 
dose in story telling. The gods grant for her sake that 
the rest of this emetic is fitting to this momentous occa- 
sion." It reminds me of an artist who on exhibiting his 
first attempt in painting to a friend, was asked by the 
friend what a large black spot represented. The artist 
wrote upon different slips of paper some sentences, which 
ran like this: "This is a rock." This is water." "This is 
land." He then pasted them where he knew he had tried 
to represent these objects, which he supposed he had 
made* very plain to the observer with his facile brush. 
The writer has made an audacious break in daring to have 
a nice little time all to herself gossiping about her fellow- 
countrymen, and had she remembered this recipe that 
the editor of the Lapeer Clarion of Michigan used upon 
Beatrice, when she sent him a poem for publication, 
entitled, "Why Do I Live," she would have thought twice 
before allowing herself to stray from sweet smelling 
pines, sandal woods and other kinds which should have 
been fascinating enough to have kept her nearer to 
nature's heart. His reply was this : "Beatrice, the reason 
why you live is because you sent the poem instead of 
bringing it." You who are sadder than the autumn leaves 
as you remember a stack of poems, sonnets and ditties 
which have not seen the light for years, all on account of 
the brutal frankness of some editor, are you not glad he 
th ought for you ! The reader has taken a wild-goose chase 
with the writer, and if you are, colloquially speaking, 
kicking yourself more than does the writer, she pities you, 
but pities herself most, and in summing up the matter, 
which has been used to create something funny, at the 
same time trying to get out of a tight place, and grate- 
fully drift back into the "Forestry Building," we are 
frank in owning it is more than we bargained for; and 
there is no use of anyone trying to spoil what has already 
been spoiled, so let us be lamb-like, as gentle as a summer 
breeze, and if we do give the writer a "breeze" for taking 
us on an unexpected and possibly an unwelcome trip, let's 
make it summery as is convenient. Send it in your own 
hand-writing upon paper scented with rose water, and 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 255 

inclose the sweet missive in a violet-scented envelope. 
Make as many allowances as your honesty of opinion will 
permit, for you know the Fair causes us to stroll into all 
sorts of subjects, leaving us dazzled, electrified and almost 
hysterical. 

Opposite Siam's exhibition was that of California, with 
its mammoth cross-sections of the redwood, highly-pol- 
ished planks of the same, and other varieties. Artistically 
arranged were ropes of fir and pine tree cones. 

Adjoining Siam was the North Carolina exhibit, which 
was arranged in pryamidal' cabinets of oak, the lower part 
showing sections of all their woods, the upper photo- 
graphs. There was an exhibit of wood made so trans- 
parent as to show distinctly every line and vein. 

Across from here was the French exhibit with its 
curious and varied collection of articles manufactured 
from fibre and grasses — baskets, nets, hammocks, etc. 

Next in order was the Dominion of Canada, with con- 
tributions from the provinces of Quebec and Manitoba. 
In the Manitoba Hotel, on Stony Island avenue, was a 
fine display of her products, including a taxidermist's 
exhibit. The name of the genial proprietor of the Mani- 
toba Hotel has slipped from our memory, but so hospit- 
able a host as he deserves to be well remembered. And 
that brings to mind the genial proprietor of the "Ander- 
son Bestaurant," who was also popular with World's Fair 
people; and no less so were the proprietors of the Rosa 
Lee, the Colorado, and the Woman's Bakery. Like war 
horses we smelled the delicious cookery from afar, and 
though eager for the fray, were often defeated by the 
high prices. 

The principal feature of the West Virginia exhibit was 
its neat and orderly arrangements. Standing in the 
center of the Forestry Building, it was crossed by aisles 
north, south, east and west. At this central junction was 
a pyramidal mass of woods, contributed by all forestry 
exhibitors. This was spanned by long, graceful bamboo 
poles, for which the island empire, or Japan, is justly 
noted. North of this pyramid was a glass case contain- 
ing the ax iso often mentioned in connection with Eng- 
land's premier, Bt. Hon. William E. Gladstone. 

Next in order was Australia's exhibit inclosed in 
massive planks, highly polished. From this "island con- 
tinent" was rosewood, black and red bean, iron bark, and 



256 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

other highly-polished 1 and beautiful forest products; also 
resins, gums, dyewoods and manufactured articles. 

Facing this was Michigan's exhibit. And citizens of 
this state will take pride in knowing that the jury of 
awards on forestry exhibits tendered over two hundred 
per cent more to Michigan's exhibit in forestry than to 
any other state in the Union. Surely we cannot be 
accused of partiality in devoting some space describing 
her forestry exhibits, for the reason that she received 
twenty-five awards in this department alone; Illinois re- 
ceived ten, Wisconsin seven, West Virginia five — these 
four states received the highest awards. Michigan's 
exhibits were enclosed on the south side with a highly- 
polished white oak framework, about four feet in height. 
Inserted the length of the framework were panels of black 
walnut, butternut, cherry, red birch, and her bird's eye 
maple, which is celebrated for its beauty and fine grain, 
and for the high polish to which it may be brought. 
These panels were highly finished and polished by Berry 
Bros., of Detroit, with their well-known hard oil finish. 
This exhibit extended along the main aisle for fourteen 
feet. The rest of the space was taken up with a white oak 
cabinet with broad shelves. This was divided in the 
center, allowing a space of four feet for the main entrance 
to the exhibits. Its archway was spanned by the state 
coat-of-arms, carved from white oak. Upon the south 
shelf of the cabinet was a miniature old-fashioned sugar 
camp, built inside of a glass globe. This was the handi- 
work of the Eev. O. W. Johnson, of Freeport, Baraga 
County. 

On this shelf was the exhibit of the Elk Rapids Iron 
Co., wood products, consisting of wood alcohol, pyryti- 
genous and ascetate of lime. The statement of this firm 
was that the resultant proof from the products of the> 
smoke from charring woods, in the manufacture of char- 
coal, netted thirty-five cents per cord. It seemed an 
almost incredible statement ; nevertheless, it was true. 

On the south shelf, in glass jars, were seeds of forest 
trees of some sixty varieties. Then their barks, mounted 
and classified, and all insects, indigenous to forest trees, 
were shown. These were prepared by Prof. Cook, of the 
Agricultural College, Lansing, and was the only exhibit 
of the kind at the Exposition. 

J. W. Fox, of Grand Rapids, showed a large and fine 
exhibit of excelsior. The east side of the structure was 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 257 

enclosed with a combination of wainscoting and paneling; 
composed of the hard woods of the state, the panels being 
highly polished and veneered. These choice specimens — 
some of them — were contributed by the Grand Rapids 
Veneer Works. They commenced with black walnut, and 
were followed by all the fine specimens of the State of 
Michigan, which is noted for her bird's eye maple and her 
dark red cherry. The figures upon the figwood maple 
were so perfectly delineated that the impression was that 
they had just left the hands of an artistic burner. 

It was hard to convince those unacquainted with woods 
that the birch, with its waves of satin-like stripes, was 
inlaid by nature's hand in the wood. Michigan has all 
the fine furniture woods which take the very highest 
polish. Visitors would not be convinced they were not 
looking into glass until after they had passed their hands 
over these polished woods, and many a wager was lost 
and won because of the skepticism of their observers. On 
a table composed of one solid white pine plank, which 
was two inches thick, thirty-eight inches wide and twenty- 
four feet long, lay various articles of woodenware, which 
are used in the dairy, kitchen, bakery and laundry — 
mallets, boxes, matches, handles of all kinds, shoe pegs, 
toothpicks, and in fact every article manufactured from 
wood known in the commercial world. 

There was an interesting exhibit of sulphite fibre. 
First a section of spruce with bark on, then a section 
shredded of its bark, then in a pyramid of glass jars the 
treated fibre, and finally rolls of it ready for the market. 
This was shown by the Sulphite Fibre Co., of Alpena, 
and received marked attention from foreign exhibitors. 
Beneath the table were shoe lasts, whiffle-trees, neck- 
yokes, wooden shoes, names, croquet sets, etc. Upon this 
table was a placard, which attracted universal attention, 
as its counterpart could not be found in any other build- 
ing. It informed visitors that "Woods which will not 
stand handling will not bear using. Michigan woods are 
not that kind. Handle them all you wish. This means 
you." 

Visitors availed themselves of it, remarking: "Well, 
that's sensible," and handled them to their hearts' con- 
tent. We all remembered how irresistible was the temp- 
tation to handle* especially if "Hands off," being placarded 
in several languages, was more pronounced than usual. 

Michigan's forestry attracted marked attention from 



258 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

the many thousands who visited it daily. Sixty-five tree 
trunks had been cut so as to show the straight, transverse 
and cross-grain of her woods. These were the finest pro- 
curable. She showed the largest and most perfect white 
pine plank at the Exposition, four inches thick, forty-four 
inches wide, eighteen feet long. The plank was con- 
tributed by Charles A. Hibbard & Son, of Pequaming. 
The firm own this town, and if you do not believe their 
work-people are well treated, happy and content, go to 
L'Anse, the most northern point of Michigan, and take a 
delightful drive to Pequaming. Starting from the head 
of Keweenaw Bay, we drive part of the way in sight of 
its beautiful waters, and in the distance see the diamond- 
edged waves of Lake Superior gleaming in the sun. Look- 
ing in another direction we see waving fields of grain; 
then we follow a winding roadway, which leads us by 
high cliffs ; water trickles from their tops and down their 
mossy sides. We pass from this picturesque scene into 
a forest of dense, sweet-smelling pines, and soon sight the 
village of Pequaming, nestling amid a forest which edges 
the shore of Lake Superior. 

A church spire gleams in the sun; the school bell is 
ringing; there are rows of homes with every comfort in 
them; their tenants have cheap rents, and there is a 
general store where everything is sold at reasonable 
prices. There is not a saloon in the village, nor for miles 
around, and most of the men have money at interest. A 
hotel stands in the midst of a lovely grove. Not far away 
is the residence of the Hibbards, and a short walk brings 
one in view of their mammoth lumber yard and mill. 
Dotting the waters are barges loaded with lumber for 
other ports. In the forestry exhibit this firm showed the 
tensile and breaking strength of woods, besides butter 
tubs, barrels, pails, etc., which they manufacture. Very 
unique was the library of wood, consisting of forty-four 
volumes, each the size of a Webster's quarto dictionary. 
These were bound in morocco, and the leaves were the 
commercial and veneered woods of the state, with their 
common and botanical name beneath them in gold letters. 

The King Carving & Molding Co. and the Veneer Works 
of Grand Rapids were kept busy giving away souvenirs, 
of which there was an unlimited supply. 

There were large photographic views of forest scenes, 
which showed men cutting and falling trees, skidding 
logs, hauling them by team and rail, sawing logs into 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 259 

lumber and loading lumber upon vessels and cars. Thus 
was seen the modes pursued from the first attack upon the 
tree to the finished product. 

Michigan exhibited 3,341 articles of forest products. 
Prof. Kunnabaum, of the Berlin University, one of the 
members of the jury of awards on forestry, stated that 
Michigan's exhibit was the most comprehensive and com- 
plete commercial exhibit he had ever seen. 

From Paraguay and other countries were beautiful 
woods with names, "Paloaigio," "Palo this" and "Palo 
that." It was not United States language, so we gave 
it up. 

Japan's exhibit was very comprehensive, for nearly 
everything was bamboo. Some of the poles were four 
inches in diameter and sixteen feet long, while others were 
only two inches about and over one hundred feet long. 
They were graceful and tapering as a coachman's whip. 
Their grotesque yet pretty articles of merchandise were 
finished in that soft, satiny way which only the little Japs 
know how to do. Upon the walls were water colors, 
depicting the true color of the foliage and grains of all 
their woods. These were represented so truly that they 
looked as though they were transferred from nature. 

' Forestry was one of the public buildings which was 
always quiet. But little has been touched upon here 
regarding it, and we all feel as did a prominent German 
citizen of Detroit, who, after spending some weeks at the 
Fair, returned home; and on being interviewed by his 
friends as to what he saw, he mentioned to them some 
minor attractions. On being further pressed he testily 
replied: 

"Dunderundblitzen, how I knowed vat I sawed. Go 
see him yourselfes." 

That was the predicament of a good many. 



260 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 



LOUISIANA. 

The intention was to have begun with the early history 
of this state, then taken great jumps up to the present, 
just as has been done with many of the other states. But 
the notes upon this topic, collected during the Fair, by 
some means were lost, so of necessity statements must be 
from memory. 

No portion of the Union teems with more romance and 
poetry than Louisiana; so it has been chosen to relate the 
history of the "Haunted House," which stands on a street 
called Rue Royal in New Orleans, and which at an early 
day was an aristocratic French quarter. The story of 
this house is based on facts, and has been much romanced 
upon by travelers and writers, who, when there, always 
visit this historic building. Though giving the story as 
much as possible in my own language, yet I must be honest 
in saying that the ghost story would not have been so. 
vividly pictured to you but for the reading of honest facts 
from the facile pen of Miss Louise Points. Her tale 
should take front rank in that line of literature, for if 
'twere told us in the twilight, instinctively we would draw 
closer to each other, fearing we'd be "cotched" by the hob- 
goblins, which her fancy created, and out of dark, 
mysterious shadows, waving white nothings would come, 
and hold high carnival, while chills ran up and down 
our spinal column and cold perspiration would start from 
every pore, and every hair stand erect as though it were 
wire. Creepy, prickly sensations would race in waves of 
fright from our head to our feet and cause us to hold our 
breath until again compelled to breathe. 

This story by Miss Points appeared in the New Orleans 
"Daily Picayune," March 31st, 1892. We have made a 
few necessary exceptions, which is, "cutting the story 
short," yet not harming the trend of the subject, or her 
literary originality. 

On the street Rue Royal stands a quaint, old-fashioned 
house, about which clusters many wild and weird stories, 
and few care, even in this philosophic day, to pass the 
place after nightfall, or in so doing, hurry by with bated 
breath, feeling that ghouls and ghosts hover near to exer- 
cise an uncanny spell over them. Old Spanish residents, 
who have its history from their ancestors, shake their 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 261 

heads, tell you "the house is haunted," and relate strange 
stories; how are seen mysterious lights flitting from room 
to room, accompanied by ghosts, hobgoblins and witches, 
holding high revel, making unearthly noises, while pro- 
ceeding from damp dungeons and attics came weird 
groans; and lambent lights flit from window to window, 
vanishing, then re-appearing in confused rapidity. 

A long, ghostly procession winds up the stairs at mid- 
night, and peers cautiously over the roof, where may be 
seen on moonlight nights, haunting the latticed porches, 
a little child. All this began long ago, when the great 
house was closed for many years, and broken windows, 
defaced galleries and other tokens of disorder, told the 
story of an indignant uprising of the populace, which laid 
the foundation for the wild, ghostly legends, which as 
years passed by were woven by imaginative minds. 

Shall we visit it when in New Orleans? Certainly. 
Artists have painted it, travelers have written of it, and 
it has been made a special subject by George W. Cable, 
in the "Century Magazine." In order to know how much 
of it was true written by Mr. Cable, or how much he 
romanced, ask the old Creole residents, who will give you 
the indisputable facts. Nevertheless, the house has a true 
and horrible history. For years it was the great mansion 
of the French quarters, towering high above other build- 
ings. Every night a slave hung out of the quaint, old 
observatory a single light, as a guide for wayfaring 
travelers. 

Its entrance is midway under the balcony, east. The 
walls and ceilings of the deep white portal way are 
curiously ornamented. Grates of open, ornamental iron- 
work shut it in from the street. Upon a wide door open- 
ing into a marble hall are exquisitely wrought urns, 
flowers and birds, with a central piece of Phoebus in his 
chariot. 

In the hall of the old house rises an iron-railed, spiral 
staircase, leading to the drawing rooms and sleeping 
apartments. Above the doors leading to the drawing 
rooms are carved human faces and flowers, while between 
the doors are highly ornamented panels. About the 
walls of these great rooms extends a deep frieze of raised 
work; its lofty ceilings and edges of doors are beautifully 
carved in raised designs of garlands of flowers and stars. 

The fireplaces are high and ancient looking; the 
chandeliers rare and quaint, hanging thick with crystal 



262 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

pendants. The high, wide windows, measuring seven 
feet across, are set between fluted Corinthian pillars, and 
open out upon broad balconies. At the end of one of 
these rooms there was, years ago, a little door with large 
iron hinges, which opened upon a small, dark place, ex- 
tending to a dungeon. 

The fourth floor is cut up into small closets, having 
large iron keys and locks. This is the attic; from here a 
rickety staircase leads, to the tower, giving the very finest 
view of New Orleans. 

In 1831 it came into the possession of Mme. Lalaurie; 
and now begins the strange, weird story. 

She possessed great wealth, hundreds of slaves, and 
was young, beautiful and accomplished. Born and reared 
in the upper circles of society, she reigned like a queen in 
her stately drawing rooms, dispensing her hospitality in 
a lavish manner, and seemed to occupy an enviable 
position. 

Her house was filled with elegant furniture, rare, costly 
gold and silver plate, bric-a-brac, and pictures by noted 
artists. Her splendid equipage and horses were the 
center of attraction when driving along the old Bayou 
road, where all fashionable New Orleans drove. 

Her voice was soft as a low strain of music; she pos- 
sessed sweet, gracious manners, and was noted for her 
charity. Yet there were wild rumors that Madame in- 
flicted cruel tortures upon her slaves, flogging them 
unmercifully. That in her splendid home, behind those 
attic windows, were human beings, chained to the floor, 
confined in darkness and starving to death. In a shadowy 
sort of way rumors floated about the neighborhood of the 
curious door in the wall. 

Many said she was kind to her servants, and scouted the 
idea of ill treatment. If any of them trembled in her 
presence, or seemed startled, she kindly reassured them ; 
nevertheless the stories of inhuman barbarity increased, 
and one day, so said the neighbors, she cowhided a little 
girl in the court-yard. The terrified little negress fled 
into the house, up the long, winding stairs, chased by her 
infuriated mistress, from gallery to gallery. The girl 
fled into the attic, thence to the tower, then out on the 
roof, Madame close at her heels. 

In another instant the child reached the roof's edge and 
fell into the court-yard below. She was borne into the 



■HBP 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 263 

house, a silent, crushed mass of humanity, and at night- 
fall was buried in an old well in the court. 

But the day of retribution was close at hand. In April, 
1834, an old negress, goaded by cruelties heaped upon her, 
set fire to the kitchen. Tradition states that the old 
woman dreamed the night before of seeing the house in 
flames and caught the inspiration. The alarm was given, 
and instantly the house was thronged with people, eager 
to assist Madame in saving her valuable effects. In the 
crowd were citizens of high standing (some are yet living 
who witnessed the scene that followed); rapidly the fire 
gained, the kitchen was aflame, and the upper story filled 
with smoke. 

Perfectly self-possessed Madame handed to her friends 
plate, jewels and robes. On a hundred lips was the ques- 
tion: 

"Where are the servants?" 

Evasively she replied : 

"Never mind the servants, but save my valuables. This 
way, gentlemen." But she could not stop the whisperings 
of the crowd that her servants were chained and locked 
behind barred doors. Immediately voices, loud, vengeful 
and threatening, came from the crowd with fierce yells,, 
accompanied with the command: 

"Produce your servants. Where are your keys?" 

Wildly they clamored for them, but they could not be- 
found. 

"Who'll follow me?" cried a Creole gentleman. 

"I" and "I," came from the crowd. They ascended to 
the attic, burst iron bars and locks, then led out two old 
negroes, with heavy iron collars about their necks, and 
irons upon their ankles; attached to each of these were 
chains. 

The fire, by superhuman efforts made by the firemen, 
had been subdued. The crowd, maddened at sight of the 
slaves, cried out: 

"Let the search go on." 

The garret was explored, and gaunt, wild-eyed human 
beings, crippled from attitudes in which they had been 
chained to the floor (and they were loaded down with 
chains), were brought forth from their dungeons and cells, 
while the crowd groaned with horror and pity. The sug- 
gestion was made to search for dead bodies, and when 
two skeletons were found their indignation and excite- 
ment knew no bounds. 



264 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

Madame secreted herself in one of the great rooms, and 
locked it. The crowd had no time to think of her yet; in 
pity they brought food and drink to the sufferers, then 
tenderly carried them on litters to a building which stood 
in the next block, where fully two thousand people visited 
them, carrying food, clothing, drink, and speaking words 
of cheer and comfort. Before the day was out two of the 
victims had died. 

An ominous silence, which precedes the outburst of the 
smouldering wrath of an outraged public, was strongly 
perceptible. All that night and during the next morning 
crowds hung about the mansion. Toward noon their 
numbers increased. By evening the throng was dense, 
hissing, hooting and crying out for revenge. 

Madame proved equal to the occasion, for she conceived 
and executed a bold plan for flight. Promptly at the 
hour she was accustomed to take her usual drive, her car- 
riage drew before the door, and Madame, dressed in her 
usual elegant style, stepped from her door upon the side- 
walk, quickly into the carriage, and in a second the horses 
were speeding over the smooth roads of Bayou; she was 
taking her last drive in that fashionable quarter. 

In an instant the crowd, aware of her masterful stroke 
of audacity, ran after her, yelling : 

"Stop her, she's running away." "Shoot her, drag her 
-out." "Shoot the horses." 

Furiously the coachman drove, followed by the uproar- 
ious, uncontrollable mob, until, breathless and panting, 
they were distanced. A schooner was moored near the 
bank of the Bayou St. John; a handful of gold dropped 
by Madame into the hand of the captain caused his vessel 
to set sail for Mandeville. 

For ten days, 'tis said, she took refuge where stands the 
Clayborne cottage, in Covington, whence she made her 
way to Mobile, thence to Paris; but her reputation had 
preceded her, and she again fled, "skulking about the 
provinces under an assumed name." The truth is, many 
New Orleans people, who were sojourning in Paris at that 
time, positively assert that she kept a handsome estab- 
lishment there, and her home was the resort of the cul- 
tured and intelligent; her gracious manners, great wealth 
and high connections made her a welcome guest in the 
most exclusive circles, and when the story reached Paris, 
it was looked upon as the result of her well-known eccen- 



m^^mmmm^^mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 265 

tricity and her high, ungovernable temper, which at times 
bordered upon insanity. 

She was not set upon by a wild beast and torn to pieces, 
while hunting wild boar in the forests near Paris, as has 
been related by some writers, but died in her home, sur- 
rounded by her family, and thus ends a part of her life 
history. 

On the evening of her departure from New Orleans the 
infuriated mob retraced their steps ; they were overtaken 
by the coachman returning from Madame. The mob 
killed the horses and broke the carriage to pieces, but by 
some strange luck the driver escaped. The mob then 
returned to Madame's house, and began a work of 
destruction. Doors and windows were smashed in; mir- 
rors, plate and china were broken to atoms. Bedding, 
table linen, expensive curtains, elegant pianos, tables, 
sofas, lovely cabinets, all were taken to the third story 
and thrown from the window onto the pavement below. 
When night came bonfires were made of the debris. 

By its bright glare they mounted and battered the roof, 
while some of them smashed windows, defaced doors, and 
were still engaged in the work of destruction when morn- 
ing came, and conservative citizens intervened. The 
house was then closed, and for a long time stood unin- 
habited. "A silent monument of vengeance visited upon 
it by an outraged people." 

In 1837 Madame Lalaurie's agent sold the house to a 
gentleman, who kept it only three months, so mysterious 
were the goings on. Windows raised and fell, doors 
opened and closed, untouched by human hands ; unearthly 
noises were heard, and strange flittering lights were seen. 
Several times 'twas rented, when many of the rooms were 
sub-let, but their tenants did not remain. 

For a few months a furniture store flourished in the 
basement; at another time a barber shop. The romance 
of its early days was but a prelude of its later history. 

After the war, during the period of reconstruction, the 
radical school board of New Orleans opened doors of the 
white schools to the negroes, and the city beheld the 
strange sight of white and colored children sitting at the 
same desks in the free halls of learning. 

The school board secured the "haunted house," fitted 
it up as a high school, and these ancient rooms beheld the 
strange sight of seeing side by side on the same bench 
pure Caucasian and African girls, the latter but a few 



266 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

years before having been the slaves of the former. This 
made two distinct factions. The white girls, forced 
through the disastrous fortunes of war to attend public 
schools, if they secured an education, naturally resented 
the intrusion of mixed blood, or those of African descent. 

Hard words passed between the races, and many fair 
girls' cheeks were wet with tears and crimsoned w T ith 
indignation at the humiliation heaped upon them by a 
victorious foe, who, backed by the law, sought to force 
themselves into the higher spheres of a downtrodden and 
superior people. 

Thus matters remained until the 14th of September, 
1874, when the "white league" rose in arms and defeated 
the metropolitan police. The federal authorities inter- 
fered, but the league grew in power, and the principles 
advocated were imbued into the very life of the people. 
Even children understood the significance of that memor- 
able uprising, and that a great and vital principle was 
involved, as whether or not they should enjoy the con- 
stitutional privileges of their state, which was the safe- 
guard of their hearth and home. 

At this time Miss Belle Simmons was principal of the 
school, and one day in December a delegation of chival- 
rous high school boys marched into the school, and asked 
the principal to call the roll. Every pupil suspected of 
having tainted blood was challenged, They were kindly 
but firmly informed by the boys that they must form in 
line and leave the school, which they did right then. 

Mr. Cable's statement was that armed men showing the 
badge of the "white league'' did this. In 1893 Miss Sim- 
mons yet lived in New Orleans, and if yet alive may be 
consulted as to the facts, which are as has been first stated. 
The boys' action was but a phase of impulses which often 
come to the surface when great emergencies present 
themselves. They had in the most vigorous manner 
purged their own institution of the objectionable colored 
male sex, and spontaneously they came to the rescue of 
their dear sisters, sweethearts and friends. 

The "white league" was patriotic and had higher aims 
to accomplish. So to these schoolboys history must look 
as being responsible for that act, A few weeks later the 
young ladies of mixed blood and African were reinstated 
by the radical school board, and three years later they 
held commencement day with their white mistresses, re- 
ceiving diplomas side by side with them, in the very room 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 267 

which once sheltered Lafayette. But when the Demo- 
cratic school board came in power, which was in that 
graduating year, they immediately established, just as 
they should have done, separate schools for blacks and 
whites. 

The next year the "haunted house" was used as a high 
school for colored girls. The school lasted one session 
and then perished forever. 

In 1882 an enterprising Englishman opened a conser- 
vatory of music, and a fashionable dancing school in the 
parlors of the house. He came with high references, and 
drew his pupils from the best elements of society, having 
as instructors the most noted vocal and instrumental pro- 
fessors, French, German and American. 

Brilliantly lighted were the great apartments, filled 
with music and laughter of lovely young people. At the 
weekly soirees it was a pretty sight to see the young ladies 
gracefully flitting about the great rooms or out on the 
broad balconies, leaning upon the arms of dark-browed 
gentlemen in evening dress, while out on the evening air 
came selections sung by a rich tenor. Often 'twas in full 
opera chorus. But too soon was this happy pastime to 
go from them, for the house seemed accursed. The ghosts 
were there, "dancing on the waves of melody." The Eng- 
lishman sent out invitations for a grand soiree concert 
and musicale. On the day of the evening which it was 
to have been given, a scurrilous publication attacked the 
character of this gentleman; by evening the artists and 
all the guests had heard the news, all but the host himself, 
who in full evening dress awaited their arrival, but no one 
came, and later notes of regret poured in, pleading ex- 
cuses for not being able to keep their engagement. Be- 
wildered, he wondered what it meant. Some kind neigh- 
bors across the way sent him a paper with the article 
marked. He read it; it was false, but he was a ruined 
man, and he was broken-hearted. The conservatory was 
closed, and the neighbors said on that night the ghosts 
and spirits held high carnival in celebration of their 
triumph. 

In the Exposition year a Northerner leased and opened 
it for a large boarding house, but the neighbors shook 
their heads, and in a few weeks the sign, "The Mansion 
House," was down, and the house closed. No one cared 
to remain even over night in dreary, ghost-haunted apart- 
ments. And now comes the last chapter in the history of 



268 SIX MONTHS AT THE Yv r ORLD'S FAIR. 

this old house, which occurred a few years after its last 
closing mentioned. All its rooms were thrown open and 
invaded by a curious, motley crowd, bidding on valuable 
collections of a lifetime falling under the hammer of the 
auctioneer. 

Of late years few supposed the house to be inhabited. 
It seemed abandoned, for its doors and windows were 
always closed. But for more than three years Jules 
Vignie, son of Col. Vignie, a prominent soldier of the 
French revolution and colonel of the crack militia in the 
old days of New Orleans, lived there, and at that time was 
partner of the well-known auctioneer, Gabriel De Ferret. 
Jules, after leaving college, was employed in his office. 
He was eccentric, an antiquarian by nature, and an assidu- 
ous collector of bric-a-brac and pictures. 

After the war the fortunes of his family changed, and 
gradually they slipped out of the old life on Royal street. 
Embittered by reverses, Jules became more eccentric and 
retired to these rooms. Many supposed him dead, not 
knowing where he was, until a piece of black crape was 
seen fluttering from one of the doors of the "haunted 
house." 

Curious neighbors mounted the great stairway, won- 
dering who should have lived and died in those old rooms. 
They were surprised to see on all sides, instead of abject 
poverty, grand old pieces of furniture, antique cabinets, 
libraries, bric-a-brac, rare and costly pictures, bronzes, 
old swords, enough family relics to fill a museum. 

In the attic, on a narrow iron cot, lay Jules Vignie — 
dead. Finding money secreted in a corner, it caused them 
to rip open some mattresses, where was found about 
$2,500 and valuables amounting to several thousands 
more. On the day of the auction, amid its din, dust and 
disorder, elegantly dressed ladies visited the slave quar- 
ters; then passed through rooms and galleries littered 
with debris, and contents of ripped-open mattresses. 
Heedless of all this they peered in every corner of rooms, 
climbed to the attic, and examined the great iron bars, 
curious locks and hinges of the cells. They then mounted 
the rickety stairs leading to the haunted tower, and 
looked down upon the paved court-yard and its myster- 
ious well. Then upon the latticed and iron-barred win- 
dows, and wondered if any old house could present more 
successive links of realism and romance. 

They thought of the noted people it had harbored; and 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 269 

as its olden legends, ghostly myths and changeful career 
trooped before them, they fell to wondering what next 
of the old-haunted house. Its picture, a very large one, 
hung in the Louisiana State Building, and the story was 
on exhibition with the picture. 

The State Building was a quaintly patterned old planta- 
tion house, with broad corridors, immense doors, dormer 
windows and a wide, low porch running about it. The 
building was filled with rare old works of art, historic 
relics, and curious looking, but priceless furniture of old 
Creole days. 

Over |100,000 was raised by the people of this state for 
their exhibit. One room, called the "curly pine room," 
was finished entirely in curly pine. The Cyprus wood 
shown is beautifully grained and very durable. Their 
lands are densely covered with these timbers and others, 
which were offered there, at 75 cents per acre. 

Such lands, when cleared, will bear thirty tons of sugar 
cane, worth f 4 per ton, to the acre. 

On the second floor we found the Browsards in their 
Acadian room; the father leaned against the wall near 
the fireplace, while his small black dog looked lovingly, 
but longingly into his face, much as to say: 

"Will we ever get out of these quarters and live in our 
own town again?" 

The old man seemed quite as miserable as the dog, for 
his gun lay idle in crooked saplings fastened on the wall 
over the fireplace. By it hung a powder flask and some 
stuffed animals. His good wife industriously wove 
Acadian cloths upon a loom over one hundred years old. 
'Twas a restful, quiet room, and a sweet peace stole over 
the beholder as he or she viewed the contented mother 
and daughter who was not less beautiful than Evangeline. 

The guests in this old room seated themselves in rush- 
bottomed or roughly hewed wooden chairs; a square 
frame was draped with hand embroidered Acadian cur- 
tains and covered the high poster bed. Kosaries, cruci- 
fixes and prayer books were in place for constant use. 

The bedspread and valances were of cotton, knit in a 
heavy thick pattern. Hanging from the ceiling were 
bunches of dried herbs; upon the walls were coarse cloth 
wall banners, worked in Acadian stitches, of women weep- 
ing, holding up the crucifix to the views of husbands and 
sweethearts, sailing away o'er the main. A worked 
inscription read: 

"And with the ebb of the tide the ship sailed away." 



270 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S fair. 

The bed and furnishings called to remembrance the 
story told by a young girl who often visited her grand- 
mother, who lived in a log cabin on a hill. She played in 
the woods and tumbled over haystacks all day; had 
minute pudding for her three meals a day, eating upon it 
sweet, thick cream, and she fairly robbed her grandmother 
of the wherewithal to make butter. At night she lay on 
a bed in a room, much like this one shown at the Fair, and 
in fancy she again heard a gentle summer rain descending 
upon the roof, "patter," "patter/' while grandmother got 
out the "New T York Ledger," and read aloud to aunty, 
"Capitolla, or the Hidden Hand." Have you ever been 
deliciously tired? That is what that little girl was; and 
soon she was asleep. The Acadian room carried us in 
fancy back to memories of that night of sound sleep, and 
we were awakened very early the next morning by the 
loud, long call of the loon, the hoot of an owl, the ringing 
of cowbells through the woods, and the bleating of sheep. 
At last we heard the welcome call "Breakfast," and arose 
for another romping day of pleasure. 

Evangeline could not have been fairer than was Naomi 
Browsard, daughter of these Acadian farmers. They 
knew Longfellow's great poem, and said they were 
descendants of the people w T hich he described. * 

The reason of our content and satisfaction in this room 
was, we think, because we partook of their perfect con- 
tentment. The room seemed filled with it. Naomi's soft, 
wavy black hair fell back from a low, broad forehead, her 
mild black eyes were of liquid loveliness, she possessed a 
pensive face of perfect contour. 

"She was fair, exceeding fair to behold." 

On speaking of "Evangeline" tears sprang to her eyes, 
a wave of sadness swept over her face, which quickly 
changed as the stalwart form of a young man appeared 
in the doorway, and she gave him a gladsome, merry 
greeting. And would you believe it? His name was 
Gabriel. She sat and carded wool, spun it off a little 
wheel, and both chatted in French. 

She was pretty as a picture in her Norman cap of white, 
and snowy muslin crossed in neat folds over her dark blue 
Acadian dress. And now that they are back in their old 
home, near the Gulf of Mexico, may they never experi- 
ence Evangeline and Gabriel's tragic fate. 

In another room we found a damask dress, worked in 
fine designs by Madame J. Des Grange, Bordeaux. The 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 271 

dress was worn at the Court of Louis XVI. We next 
found an old painting, entitled "The Shadow of Death." 
In the background was a shadow of a rather indiscernible 
human figure with outspread arms, shaping a cross which 
seemed to darken the small room, and warned, in its 
heavy blackness, Mary and Joseph. 

She kneeled with a look of horror upon her face over the 
cradle where lay the babe, and saw, resting upon the 
"Christ child," a great heart thickly pierced with arrows. 
Joseph stood in the shavings by his bench, both arms 
were raised high above his head. He seemed to be scream- 
ing, so intense was his agony, and so apparent to him was 
the frightfulness of the situation. 

We found a miniature of Philip Noland, the hero of 
Edward Everett Hale's remarkable story, "A Man With- 
out a Country." Next a battler used by the Acadian 
women for washing clothes. The large square old grip- 
sack which Zaehary Taylor carried in the Mexican war. 
Old breviaries of 1557, from the old cathedral of Orleans. 
Pressed flowers from the battlefield of Manassas; the 
first coffee cultivated in the state was on this field in 1840; 
a globe-covered clock over two hundred years old; a 
Spanish water jug taken from the "haunted house," and a 
Mexican handmill for grinding corn. 

The people of the whole south, while particular as to 
social quality, are truly the most charitable, affectionate 
and warm-hearted race one can ever know. They are 
possessed of quick impulses, are very forgiving, and are 
justly proud of their southern blood. 



272 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 



MT. VERNON, VIRGINIA. 

This structure represented the old home of Washing- 
ton, which yet stands on the bank of the Potomac. On 
its walls were old portraits, one of pretty Nellie Custis, 
and beside it her paintings and fancy work which she 
has done long years ago. There was also shown Dolly 
Madison's harpsichord, its keys yellow with age and 
some of the ivories gone. 

In another room were works of Edward Valentine, 
sculptor, of Richmond, Virginia. Added interest was felt 
in his work by all who met him and his charming wife, 
who were guests of "Hyde Park" long before the Fair 
opened. It was a pyramidal group about eight feet in 
height, of Andromache, and Astyana, which were sug- 
gested on lines from Homer's Iliad: 

"But now returning home, thy works attend 
The loom and distaff, and direct thy maids in household 
duties, 
While the war shall be of men the care; 
Of all, indeed, but most the care of me, 
Of all in Ilium born." 

Andromache was seated, her hair bound in a single 
fillet, the right arm hung listlessly upon an owl-headed 
vase, which was half concealed in drapery. Her left 
hand clasped the child Astyana, while her expression 
seemed to forbode the oncoming of the fate which was to 
culminate in her bondage. 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 273 



WEST VIRGINIA. 

An atmosphere of stately dignity pervaded the rooms 
of this building. It was surrounded by handsome, broad 
porches, which constitute a portion of life's pleasures in 
the South, as the people there fairly live upon them. 

Upon its hard oiled floors were fine, fur rugs. Upon 
mantels, bric-a-brac. In one room we found the be- 
flowered old rep sofa on which sat Grant and Lee when 
they talked it over how the papers of agreement should 
read; there stood the old secretary on which they were 
written ('tis said the final copying of them was done on a 
stand which passed into the possession of Gen. Custer). 
Above the sofa were seen the portraits of these two noble- 
featured men, Grant and Lee, and other historic pictures 
relating to the civil war. As the battle of Manassas 
was fought on the farm of Wm. McLean, it was in his 
house and while sitting on his sofa, which was displayed 
in this building, that the final agreement between the 
generals was reached. The articles were drawn up on the 
old secretary. Another claim is that it then was signed 
by them on a small stand, which is now in Chicago. The 
present owner of these articles of furniture is Mrs. H. 
E. Spilman, of Macon County, W. Va. The sofa was 
valued at 11,000 and the secretary at f 2,000. 

On the second stair landing was a fine painting of dogs, 
entitled, "Anticipation," by the Artist Lily Jackson, ex- 
ecutive lady manager from this State. The picture 
"Sheep and Lambs" was by Emma White, aged seven- 
teen. The wool effect was very natural, the sweep of 
woodland stretching over the brow of a hill made a per- 
spective so good, that as a whole it attracted great atten- 
tion from visitors, who said, "We shall hear of that artist 
again." 



'274: SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 



KENTUCKY. 

This building was a typical representation of a south- 
ern colonial mansion. In the center was a statue of 
Henry Clay. It was a tasty, pretty home, where people 
were hospitably welcomed by its charming lady manager, 
Miss Hill. In one pretty parlor, which was the main 
reception room, was a noticeable piece of furniture, the 
"Lincoln' 7 piano, manufactured by Smith & Nixon from 
wood off the birthplace farm .of Abraham Lincoln, in 
Larue County. In this room was a bronze medallion of 
him, modeled by Mrs. Cotter Pierce Smith, and valued at 
|10,000. There were many handsome panels, but one was 
especially so, being carved in a relief of oak leaves, with 
a few bars of the music and words of "My Old Kentucky 
Home." 

Among the fancy work we found a fleecy cobweb of a 
handkerchief, all handwrought ,which was thought to be 
the finest piece of needlework at the Fair. It was made 
and owned by Miss Anna Farro, of Lexington, Ky., and 
was valued at f 100. Mrs. Maggie Cragg Bell, of Louis- 
ville, showed a painting done on china of Mrs. President 
Palmer, which was the finest portrait seen of the lady 
anywhere. There was some hand-painted and gold out- 
lined china, which was the most delicate, fairy-like work 
of its kind at* the Fair. It stood in a cabinet in a corner 
of one of the parlors. The work was by Mrs. John Bacon, 
of whom it was said, "She is just as dainty, refined and 
lovely as is her beautiful work." 

There was a strong bond of friendship formed between 
Kentucky and Michigan, and Memory, standing near, car- 
ries a message of love and cheer to our friends in Ken- 
tucky: 

Our friends of Kentucky, 

So just and so true; 

These are our true sentiments: 

We long to see you. 

Come over to Michigan 

As in days of old, 

And our friendships renew 

Which were like the pure gold. 



"="= 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR 275 

Kentucky's mine pavilion was fronted solidly with 
canal-coal. It was turreted to imitate the walls of an 
old feudal castle; the entrance was gained through a 
mammoth arched portal ; there was also shown in an un- 
derground exhibit, the starry chamber of the mammoth 
cave. 

Her greatest exhibit was made in the "Agricultural 
Building." Her tobacco exhibit was especially interest- 
ing and very complete. In fact, it was called by experts 
the finest samples of tobacco they had ever seen. 



276 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 



MONTANA. 

This State was well represented in every department, 
her mineral exhibit being a leading feature. 

It was greatly regretted by the Montana officials that 
they were unable to place their delightful climate on exhi- 
bition. This State covers an extensive area, and with a 
portion of Louisiana was once claimed and occupied by 
France, but became an integral part of the United States 
when President Jefferson concluded his big real estate 
deal with Napoleon and acquired ownership of that im- 
mense tract of territory which is now the garden and 
treasure vault of the earth. It was purchased for $15,000,- 
000, a sum which Montana produces in gold, silver, copper 
and lead every three months. 

There is good reason to suppose that the first white men 
to enter this territory were Jesuit missionaries from near 
the St. Lawrence river, who journeyed across Montana's 
wilds in the early part of the eighteenth century. In an 
early day the Astor expedition traveled along the Pacific 
coast on its way to Astoria to found a post for the fur trade 
of the Northwest. Their hardships and trials are interest- 
ingly related in Washington Irving' s "Astoria." 

Happily for Montana her resources are diversified. 
While she glories in her mines she has a treasure of soil 
]ying hidden beneath unturned sod. Her chief and certain 
reliance, in her future, is agriculture. Considering this 
country's position on the map, situated in the heart of the 
Rocky Mountain region, she w^as not exactly the State to 
look to for an interesting horticultural exhibit, and. we 
were surprised to find fruits which compared in size and 
flavor with those of any other State. 

Next to mining, stock growing ranks as the industry 
of importance in that State. 

Its beginning dates from the time of the first gold 
seekers. The first oxen to arrive in Montana were worn 
to the bone from their long tramp across the plains. They 
were turned out as of no use to the owners, who expected 
when winter set in they would, owing to their condition, 
die from exposure. But they did not. A few weeks' feed- 
ing on the luxuriant and nutritious bunchgrass of the val- 
leys and foothills gave them a new lease of life, and in 
the spring, to the astonishment of the miners, they were 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 27T 

fat enough for beef. Thenceforth this industry became an 
important one. 

Montana's educators are fully abreast of the times, her 
school work comparing favorably with that of older 
States. From her earliest day she was solicitous for the 
proper education of her youth, and to-day her school sys- 
tem is her citizens' special pride. 

The resources of this State were interestingly set forth 
in two elegant cars of the Northern Pacific Railroad, which 
crosses the State from east to west. These cars were in 
the "Transportation Building." No small credit is due to 
the women of Montana, who were zealous and active in 
promoting the State's interest. Their display in the 
"Woman's Building" was admirable. We think it was a 
lady from Montana who exhibited the beautiful painting 
of "Psyche" on china. 



278 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 



UTAH. 

A history of this State and its cultured people is un- 
necessary. Long ago the objectionable feature of their 
religion was abolished. From the beginning of this peo- 
ple's history, prosperity and wealth was showered upon 
them, making it seem that they were "chosen children," 
highly favored by Providence. 

The City of Salt Lake is magnificent. It has the broad- 
est streets in the world. The temple is considered one of 
the most expensive known. 

The pleasant officials of their State building were kind 
friends to everyone, and were very dear to "Michiganders." 
Brigham Young's statue graced their yard; and high on 
the front of the building was the bee-hive, which indicates 
"business of official nature is transacted here." 

Utah has factories of all kinds, and nothing worn or 
used was missing from the exhibit of their looms. The 
walls of their parlors were adorned with paintings and 
were richly furnished. 

The remains of a gigantic, pre-historic person lay in a 
glass case. The relics from their Indian mounds were 
large in numbers. The librarian informed the writer that 
he was the son of the first wife of a citizen. That when a 
Mormon had several wives, he knew that such a thing as 
real contentment among the wives was unknown until 
polygamy was abolished. He said the law regarding prop- 
erty was, when the husband died, the first wife received 
one-third of it, and her children (except there was a favor- 
ite child, or children by another wife whom he could 
remember if he wished) received the rest. The first chil- 
dren might be cut off by willing them one dollar apiece. 

We saw flat stones taken from their Indian mounds, 
with hieroglyphics upon them. These hieroglyphic writers 
must have been an advanced people, as fine linens and 
unique pottery with very pretty decorations upon them 
were found ; also cotton yarn, woven mattings of wool, and 
others made of the Yucca plant by them thousands of 
years ago. 



= 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLDS FAIR. 279 



ARKANSAS. 

The people of this State are pre-eminently of agricul- 
tural tastes. Her fertile soil stretches forth both hands, 
beckoning the industrious to health and wealth. Mother 
Earth is powerful kind to the children of this State. 

The average value of land in the United States is $19.02 
per acre. Arkansas offers hers at $6.16 per acre. The first 
white person to traverse this State was De Soto, who 
crossed the Mississippi in 1541. He was followed by La 
Salle, who claimed it for France. The first white settle- 
ment was made at Arkansas Post, in 1686. It then formed 
a part of the Louisiana territory. 

Prior to its being ceded to the United States in 1803 its 
breezes fanned the flags of France and Spain. It became 
a State in 1836. Havoc was wrought here by the Oivil 
War, as might be expected, when 'tis borne in mind that 
one hundred and sixty-seven engagements were fought 
within her boundaries. Finally the dove of peace waved 
her wings over the fenceless fields and stockless pastures, 
but the people of this State were bravely determined to be 
the architects of their own fortunes. So to the music of 
falling trees and the melody of the hand loom and holding 
onto the plow handle these industries were to them the 
magician's wand and prosperity soon was seated beside 
every hearthstone. 

The seasons there for cultivating and harvesting crops 
are long, and there are not ten days in the year when the 
plow cannot be run. It is too late in the day to dispute 
the proud pre-eminence of this State as a fruit country. 
She wears at her girdle every pomological scalp in sight. 
On her soil is raised the persimmons of Japan. She is a 
grand grass country, and in various ways holds out un- 
rivaled inducements to the stock breeder. She is just at 
the dawn of developing many industries where abundant 
raw material is found. 

In 1893 there was not a coke, charcoal or iron furnace 
in the State, but indications point to a good time coming. 
She awaits the magical touch of skilled industry in her 
rich, unopened mines of silver, her marble quarries and 
her coal fields covering 2,500,000 acres. 

A manganese belt extends through fifteen counties. 
Her river competition will react against exorbitant rail- 



280 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

way rates. The religious life of the State is deep and 
earnest. Over two^thirds of the counties do not tolerate 
the sale of liquors. The motto of the State, which is lived 
up to in its fullest sense, is that "A well-educated child is 
the best legacy possible to leave to the State." Arkansas 
has a school system that is most comprehensive. She has 
a State university and medical college, an institution for 
the deaf, dumb and blind, beside denominational insti- 
tutions. 

Colored children are taught in a school separate from 
the whites. Teachers of both sexes receive $2.25 per day. 

The "Arkansas Building" was erected by private sub- 
scription. It cost $10,000. The interior was decorated 
and tinted on ornamented staff work wrought out in gold 
and pink terra cotta. Its walls were handpainted in 
representations of the wild roses which grow in its State. 
Columns and bases of onyx and marble were found in 
many of its rooms. The onyx mantel and clock in the 
parlor was a fine adornment. It must be remembered all 
material mentioned belongs exclusively to this State, and 
is its product. 

One room was beautifully furnished by the Arkansas 
Bankers' Association. The flora of the State was pro- 
fusely shown in paintings by Miss Trivett, the scenery by 
Mrs. Batesville, and fancy work by the King's Daughters. 
The fountain in the center of the building was designed 
by Mrs. Duke and sculptured by Caroline S. Brooks. The 
writer feels very uncertain as to description, but thinks it 
represented a goddess rising out of lily pads, which was 
surrounded by water lilies. The fountain was surrounded 
by a wall, about two feet high, of "Hot Springs" crystals. 

Mounted on pedestals were marble statuary, and busts 
of this State's noted people. Scattered over the floors 
were elegant robes of lion skins. Some articles of an- 
tiquity were shown. The tapestry painting done by Miss 
Sue Jones was very elegant. 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 281 



COLORADO. 

This State is one of the greatest mineral producing sec- 
tions of the country, and as has already been stated, her 
exhibit of precious gems and metals was magnificent. 

The beginning of agriculture in Colorado was exceed- 
ingly small. Narrow strips of land along small streams 
near the foothills were first cultivated, and on this fertile 
soil were raised vegetables. For some years after this 
(1860) the raising of wheat and other grains was more 
the work of experiment than a distinctive business enter- 
prise. 

The methods of seeding and harvesting which the peo- 
ple of this State used first were the most primitive known 
to Americans. The first wheat ready for the thresher was 
tramped out by horses, or beaten out with the ancient 
flail. Hay was harvested mainly from the native grasses 
which constituted the principal crop. It was the main 
source of revenue, which kept and fattened the horses of 
settlers and traders. All other products were mostly for 
home consumption, but the surplus was sold in Denver, at 
exorbitant rates. 

From 1860 to 1870 the greater part of their produce, 
provisions, clothing, and necessary articles were hauled 
across the plain by ox teams, a distance of 600 miles, 
to their mining camps, ranches, and small towns, and 
the enormous freight rates upon them more than doubled 
the commercial value of low priced articles. Lumber, 
seeds, everything needful was carted across the plains 
amid the perils of savage life, and many a rich caravan 
was looted by the Indians, and the bones of slaughtered 
men, women, and children were left to bleach upon the 
desolate plains. 

From the first the spirit of ^agricultural enterprise 
found there a permanent abiding. The first irrigation was 
in 1861. A small ditch was dug, taking water out of 
Boulder Creek. This watered a small area of land. The 
second, called the "farmer's ditch," carried the water over 
land for some miles, establishing the first system of true 
irrigation which, at present, is widespread. 

In the same year the celebrated editor and statesman, 
Horace Greeley, came with his famous colony and located 
on the present site of the city of Greeley. He established 



282 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

the first farms in the Platte valley, an agricultural section 
which is the leading wheat and potato producer of the 
State. 

At the time the Greeley expedition settled in Colorado,, 
the farmers were small in numbers, and too poor to de- 
velop agriculture. Thus extensive irrigation was retarded 
because what they needed were large canals which could 
be constructed only at great expense. But since 1870, one 
of the finest, most extensive systems of irrigating canals 
in the world, has there been constructed and 'tis essential 
to note that all the development which entitles Colorado 
to first-class rank, as an agricultural State, has occurred 
within ten years from date mentioned. 

The irrigation supply annually is sufficient for all of 
4,000,000 acres. Colorado now has the agricultural re- 
sources for the maintenance of additional millions of 
population. 

Hora/ce Greeley was prophetic in his faith regarding the 
great west and his original advice, "Go west, young man," 
was all right, as time soon proved it to be. Now is grown 
in Colorado every variety of crops in their season, fruits 
of excellent quality, and even (successful crops of fine, high- 
grade Havana leaf tobacco is raised. Orchards are pre- 
cocious in growtth, and Colorado is destined to be the great 
fruit producer of the west. 

The city of Grand Junction stands in the center of 
Grand Valley, and is distinctively known as the great 
orchard and vineyard of the State. It was the favorite 
land of the Utes until their removal in 1882. The first 
settler and pioneer fruit grower, Mr. Wade, settled in 
Grand Valley close upon the Utes' departure. He brought 
with him a trunk filled with a variety of fruit trees, which 
he planted. Ten years from that time, he picked from 
one tree $52 worth of peaches. In a year or so Mr. Wade 
planted a large orchard and vineyard. In seven years 
these trees and vineyards came into their first good bear- 
ing, and now he refuses $500 per acre for the small, but 
wealthy, fruit farm. 

Instances like this are repeated over and over again 
in Colorado. Her splendid railway facilities, plunging 
wildly through canyons, afford the tourist a delightful 
journey through the Eocky Mountains. Entranced, one 
may sit at the window of a luxurious palace car, and 
pass through beautiful agricultural valleys, and gaze 



wmmm 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 283 

upon the grand panorama of mountain peaks, or a charm- 
ing vista of glens, parks and valleys. 

By the Union Pacific a circuit of the agricultural region 
of northern Colorado may be made in a day. By the 
lines of the same system another day will take the visitor 
through the grandeurs of Clear Creek canyon to George- 
town, and over the famous loop to the foot of Gray's Peak 
with its crest of eternal snow, then by Denver and South 
Park through the wonderful Platte canyon, then over 
snowy regions of mountains to the famous city of Lead- 
ville. 

Throughout the State are places of fascinating interest, 
and numerous health resorts which are places of rest to 
the tourist and invalid. 

The social life of Colorado is a puzzle to the newcomer, 
and it is hardly understood by those who move along 
with it. There is one sufficient explanation. They are a 
rapid mixture of versatile people. In one sense they may 
be termed cosmopolitan. The great mass are Americans, 
who in an early day came from every State in the Union. 
Canadians form an important part of the society in this 
country; and all coming from different parts of the globe, 
bring with them their provincialisms and peculiarities. 
Some with wealth and its advantages of education and 
refinements ; many in poverty, but with industrious habits 
and with an honest purpose and avocation. 

Social and business conditions there are such that peo- 
ple become easily acquainted. Their social, fraternal, 
and religious organizations embrace the population from 
the highest to the lowest degree, and no man or woman 
need remain unknown. 

The city of Denver is the prime center of attraction. 
Its churches, public buildings and private residences are 
superb and costly in construction, and the young men 
and women who have grown up in the midst of this new 
western life are now training their children in intellectual 
attainments and giving them unbounded opportunities 
for amusements and social enjoyments. They are pol- 
ished members of society. They are social and are pos- 
sessed of artistic culture. They are educated in all these 
excellencies, as well as being well informed in business 
capacities. 

The future population necessarily will be distinctively 
of a higher order of society which is already in the major- 
ity. From the beginning a high standard of social life 



284 SIX MONTHS AT THE WOKLD'S FAIR. 

marked its people's aims. 'Tis said that nowhere in the 
world can be found a greater degree of intelligence among 
the poor than here, while the higher classes, drawn from 
all parts of the civilized world, bring with them educa- 
tion, refinement, and accomplishments. 

In Colorado's pretty home was always to be found "on 
tap" her famous Manitou water, and other mineral waters 
which flow from her mineral laden mountains. These 
health-giving springs abound in all parts of her moun- 
tainous regions. Even upon the plains, most efficacious 
waters are found. The thousands who drank of them at 
the Fair, say there is nothing like the Manitou ; rt is the 
most delicious drink in the world. 

Many eminent physicians have testified that Colorado 
is a land of healing. Thermal springs are located in dif- 
ferent parts of the State. They possess cleansing virtues 
which cure the most serious organic diseases. The lives 
of sufferers are always improved and prolonged by use 
of the waters as a bath and drink. 

Colorado's officials were Michigan's neighbors during 
that short, happy summer of '93. Pleasant memories 
troop before us of their receptions, grand noon concerts, 
and the good cheer always to be found there, in hospitality 
shown by Secretary French and wife, Mrs. Coleman, Mrs. 
Garaud, and Mrs. Jones. The last three named were Col- 
orado's lady managers. They all knew how to give a 
royal welcome to visitors at Colorado's lovely home. 

One especial evening comes before us, of tne entrancing 
music given by the Dudley Buck Concert Company. Kare, 
rich strains float back to us from that dear little build- 
ing, and once more Michigan greets her World's Fair 
neighbors, who used to live across the way, and enlarges 
the message to the whole people of Colorado, and all the 
neighbors of other States. 

Note. — In every department Colorado made large ex- 
hibits. 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR, 285 



KANSAS. 

Kansas is in the center of the United States, being 
equally distant from the Atlantic on the east, the Pacific 
on the west, the Gulf of Mexico on the south, and British 
America on the north; 52,572,160 acres compose this State. 
It is equal in area to the combined areas of England and 
Ireland. 

Kansas' plan for securing farm statistics is this: The 
township assessor receives |3 per day for collecting sta- 
tistical information relating to agriculture, horticulture, 
manufactures, etc. This he does under instruction from 
the Board of Agriculture. He is required to personally 
visit each family in his township, or city, and must also 
personally inspect farms, mills, shops, mines, and other 
places. 

The report from each township or city is handed in 
to the Agricultural Board, so that the enumeration may 
commence on the first day of March. This law was made 
in 1875. These statistics are classified by the board in a 
convenient manner for use and are laid before the Legis- 
lature at the next session. Any assessor guilty of a mis- 
demeanor or willful neglect of duty is fined not less than 
$20 or more than f 100. 

The settlement of Kansas began in 1854, and since that 
time sorghum has been continuously grown there. It is 
generally supposed that a great length of time is required 
for the improvement of this plant, but simply sowing pure 
seed, of a superior variety, makes a great improvement 
in a short time. 

About 225 pounds of sugar, which costs less than three 
cents per pound, is secured from each ton of cane. With 
these facts before us, 'tis plain to see that sorghum sugar, 
without a tariff upon it, is made with much profit. 

The fruit growing industry of this State is an assured 
success, for there is no portion which is not suited to one 
or more classes of fruits. The rapidity of advancement 
in her fruit industry has no precedent in the history of 
older and noted fruit States. She now holds the dis- 
tinction of having the largest apple orchards in the world, 
some covering an area of 1,237 acres. 

Kansas has no mountains, marshes, or arid plains, but 
her surface is pleasantly diversified with low bluffs and 



286 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

a variety of rolling prairie. There seems to be no regu- 
larity in the recurrence of wet and dry seasons, and the 
periods and the laws concerning them cannot be stated 
with any certainty. 

It is common opinion there that rainfalls have been on 
the increase since Kansas was settled. As fast as the 
buffalo grass is cleared away, and its hard, dry turf is 
plowed, rainfalls sink into the soil, collecting dampness 
and moisture; which before ran off of the buffalo grass' 
shiny bead-like tops, on to its dry, hard soil, running away 
or standing until dried away by the hot winds. The hot 
winds are becoming less frequent as the grass is cleared 
away. 

It is said that from the hot sun shining on the beady 
tops of this grass, when one of the hot winds passes over 
fields of it, that hot air is formed as though in a funnel. 
It is also asserted that when fierce tornadoes or wind- 
storms come, they are cold until sweeping over hundreds 
of acres of this grass ; it then becomes so hot that it burns 
the hand to touch it. This accounts for the hot winds of 
Kansas, which sweep along withering and burning every 
green thing, until the force of heat which it gathers in 
passing over the buffalo grass is spent. 

Clover and timothy are now successfully grown there. 
The bottom lands of Eastern Kansas vary in price from 
f 25 to f 60 per acre, the best uplands from f 15 to f 50 per 
acre; good improved lands can be bought for $12.50 to $20 
per acre; grazing lands from $4 to $10 per acre. 

The pioneer days of Kansas were full of discourage- 
ments, but the planting of trees and vegetation has 
brought about a decided change. The pioneer farmers 
of this State learned by dear experience how to farm 
Kansas. 

In Western Kansas wheat is the most successful and 
profitable grain grown. Broom corn is grown in almost 
any season with profit. In 1892 Kansas produced over 
70,000,000 bushels of wheat, which was equal to the 
product of Illinois and Iowa combined. 

About forty years ago alfalfa clover was introduced 
into California from seed imported from Chili and South 
America, where fields of it existed over one hundred years 
ago. About 1880, its name and fame had spread over 
large portions of the west, and now in many of these 
States there are thousands of acres of the bright purple 
blooming alfalfa. 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 287 

Does it pay? It would seem so when the golden seed is 
worth $5 per bushel. It would seem so when we remem- 
ber the statements given regarding it in Idaho. .After 
the ricks of hay are removed from Kansas' fields, cattle, 
to make them fat and sleek, are turned to graze on the 
pastures for a couple of months. 

It is not hard to take care of the alfalfa clover plant. 
There is no replanting, cultivating, or seeding. Once 
rooted upon the rich bottom lands, or upon high plains, it 
is a perpetual source of income. It does pay and pay well. 
The best time to plant it is from March 15th, to April 20th. 
The ground should be deeply stirred the preceding fall. 
When seeding time comes in March or April, oats or 
barley should be sown first broadcast, one-half bushel to 
the acre, then alfalfa, sown broadcast 20 pounds to the 
acre. 

It is cut for hay when in full bloom, for then its blossoms 
are the sweetest. It is then raked in windrows so as to 
cure quickly and not turn or get musty in the stack 
or barn. If cured rightly, 'twill be as green in winter 
as when first put up. As a milk producing forage it is 
simply wonderful, and it makes very rich, nice colored 
butter. Musty alfalfa must never be feci to horses, for 
it will give them the heaves. 

Stock should be kept off the fields from the first of May 
until after the last cutting, then there is no danger of the 
animals getting the bloat. The secret of its continuous 
growth in dryest weather is the extreme depth of its roots, 
which are porous and go down to moisture from 10 to 16 
feet. Notwithstanding its wonderful productiveness, it 
does not impoverish the soil, but improves it. 

Crops of potatoes raised upon its plowed surface are 
remarkable for size. The decaying alfalfa roots are equal 
to any of the best fertilizers. 

The Kansas division of the Union Pacific has its head- 
quarters at Omaha, Neb.; B. McCallister is the land com- 
missioner. It is the only railroad company in Kansas 
which yet has lands for sale. A few choice lands in the 
Arkansas river valley are offered by the Atchison, Topeka 
& Santa Fe Railroad. The headquarters are at Topeka. 
J. E. Frost is the land commissioner there. 

On entering the Kansas Building we heard a small, 
shrill whistle, and looking up into the rotunda, saw run- 
ning about its edge a full train of miniature cars. It was 
a fine advertisement of the great Rock Island route bv 



288 SIX iMONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

the way of Santa Fe and all southwestern points in Col- 
orado, Oklahoma, Texas, Nebraska, Old Mexico, Arizona, 
and California. By the St. Louis & Santa Fe Railroad 
to these points mentioned, and others. By the first route 
mentioned, one can go to Blue Rapids, the gem city of 
Kansas, the handsomest town in prairieland. The 
State's natural history exhibit was one of the best on the 
grounds. 

There was shown Comanche, the only survivor of the 
Custer massacre, who died at the age of 31, at Ft. Riley, 
November 7, 1891. Five pictures showed the method 
used in mounting him. A framework wasjnade of steel, 
which was covered with some unknown substance, then 
this was covered with plaster paris, lastly the hide was 
placed upon it. On its back was seen the same saddle 
on which rode Gen. Custer. Deers, natural as life, stood 
with horns locked, in which position they sometimes fight 
to their death. 

Mountain sheep and goats stood on far-off rocky ledges. 
Buffaloes were represented in the act of grazing, and lying 
on the grass, 7 mid bushes, was a lion and lier cubs. There 
were many other animals which must be passed by with- 
out mention. 

In great growths of chickweed were the cocoons of the 
silk worm, just as they are found in Kansas. Their silk 
was the smoothest, finest and best shown from any State 
or country. Without doubt, 'tis the best in the world. 
An advertisement read: 

"Kansas has not much woods, but she has so many 
railway facilities that lumber is brought to her State as 
cheaply as anywhere." 

The library and educational exhibit was large and good. 
Her public and private buildings were of fine architec- 
ture. 

The first Kansas Legislature met in 1855, in the old 
Shawnee Mission House in Johnson County. Its picture 
hung on the wall of a room on the first floor, where were 
seen lovely designs of wheat and other cereals. Grains 
grow as finely in Kansas as anywhere. 

On the upper floor we found the walls lined with pic- 
tures of her prominent citizens. There were many por- 
traits shown of John Brown and of his handwriting. In 
various ways it was evident they wished to show the re- 
spect they felt toward his memory. 

At the head of stairs stood a large picture, in the center 
of which was seen the sweet, refined face of Frances Wil- 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 289* 

lard. On the four corners were represented pictures, one 
of an idiot, one of an Irish convict, then an Indian decked 
out in war paint and feathers, lastly an insane man, im- 
posingly waving a branch of a tree in his hand. The title 
of this picture was, "American Woman and her Political 
Peers." It was a cold fact staring the gentlemen in the 
face. Many on seeing it laughed to hide their confusion,, 
while others were ashamed that 'twas possible for so dis- 
graceful a truth to be told. 

In the next room was painted china, and fancy work 
in profusion, and very lovely, like all the rest shown from 
all the States. The tapestry painting done by Kansas 
ladies was considered the finest shown at the fair. In 
a corner stood a flax wheel, made in Strasburg in 1860. 
On the wall was an oil painting of Clarina J. Howard 
Nickels. It was presented by the women of Kansas in 
grateful remembrance and esteem for her writings and 
advocacy of their rights of suffrage. 

The works of the State Art Association took front rank 
with all others mentioned; especially natural were their 
paintings of vegetables and fruits. An old violin and 
sheet music, by Ella Pecks, was especially noticeable for 
the old, worn, brown and yellow look. Another was a 
basket of vegetables overturned onto a brass tray; the 
reflection of the fruits in its shining surface was fine. 

The sunflower parlor was the daintiest, tastiest, most 
fetching little room you ever saw. It was rich in massive 
carved furniture and a piano. These rested on soft car- 
pets, which were spread with handsome rugs. Silken 
curtains of yellow and light green were draped at the 
windows. A dado of sunflowers ran about the edge of 
the ceiling. A clock ticked merrily while its sunflower 
pendulum swung to and fro, and the hands moved over 
an open-faced sunflower in full blossom. 

In the corner hung a banner decorated with sunflowers,, 
and poetry entitled "The Sunflower State/' by Albert 
Bigelow Paine. He writes : 

"I've ben off on a journey, 

I jes' got home to-day, 

I've traveled east, and north, and south, 

And every other way; 

I've seen a heap o' country, 

An' cities on the boom, 

But I wanter be in Kansas 

When the sunflowers bloom. 



290 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

O, it's nice among the mountains, 
But I sorter felt shut in, 
'Twould be nice upon the seashore, 
If it wasn't for the din; 
While the prairie air's so quiet, 
An' there's allers lots o' room, 
O, it's nicer still in Kansas 
When the sunflowers bloom. 

You may talk about yer lilies, 

Yer vilets an' yer roses, 

Yer astors and yer jessamines, 

And all the other posies, 

I'll allow they all are beauties, 

Er' full o' sw^eet perfume, 

But there's none o' them a patchin' 

To the sunflower's bloom. 

When all the sky above is 
Jest as blue as blue can be, 
And the prairie air a-wavin' 
Like a yaller, driftin' sea, 
O, 'tis there my soul goes sailin' 
And my heart is on the boom, 
In the golden fields of Kansas 
When the sunflowers bloom." 

Large silken butterflies, looking natural as life, rested 
upon the silken draperies, causing us to remember that 
in no other State are there so many large butterflies, of 
every imaginable, lovely hue, as in Kansas. 

An elegant center table stood in this room which con- 
tained 1,000 pieces of wood, all differently shaped and 
set together in thirty-nine different designs. This was 
•exhibited by the Ladies' Beading Club of Kansas. 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 291 



SOUTH DAKOTA. 

This building was 130 by 70 feet. A small building 
when compared with any of the rest, excepting Texas, 
Colorado and one or two more. It was two stories in 
Jieight, of a gray-greenish color. It was covered with 
Yankton cement and fronted the east. It stood on the 
right of the Fifty-seventh street entrance. 

At the right and left in this building was the parlor 
-and reading room. On its walls were portraits of the 
prominent people of the State. On passing through the 
vestibule at the right there was seen an exhibit of huge 
petrified logs. These were from a forest situated in Ari- 
zona, but were owned by citizens of Sioux Falls, S. D., 
who as a matter of course, placed this exhibit in their 
State building. This material is many times harder than 
steel, and it takes twenty days, with the aid of diamond 
dust, to saw through a tree twelve inches in diameter. 
Hence its expensiveness. These specimens told a silent 
and wonderful story, how by capillary attraction silica 
was for hundreds of years absorbed into such forests, until 
all fibre w^as displaced by it. It was a marvelous process 
of nature which lay before us in dazzling colors. 

The State of South Dakota lies in the same latitude as 
Michigan, Wisconsin, New York and Massachusetts. Its 
southern boundary line is parallel with Detroit, Boston 
and the south of France. East of the Missouri River the 
State is an undulating plain. West of it the same features 
prevail, except that elevations are more numerous, finally 
culminating in the rugged upheaved district, known as 
the Black Hills, the mineral resources of which are con- 
sidered inexhaustible. 

The State has an area of 77,650 square miles, and a 
population of 328,808. In the Black Hills was discovered 
the first metallic tin in America. In 1873 over 4,000 veins 
had been discovered with more to follow. So large is the 
output of this ore, that we are forcibly reminded of the 
protection folly which keen-eyed tarimtes fancifully see 
reflected in it. 

Geologists give astounding estimates of the thousands 
of years which it would take to lessen the State's gold 
ore, now in sight. The "Homestead" claim had in 1893, 
900 stamps working day and night, the greatest number 



292 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR 

used in any one mine in the world. Their building stones 
of jasper, chalcedony, and other varieties are counted in- 
exhaustible. Like the State of Washington, nothing is 
impossible to be found there. She has nickel, copper, 
iron, lead, zinc, fire-clay, with inexhaustible stores of gold 
and silver. Gold is washed with profit from many of 
their streams. 

History dawned upon the Black Hills about twenty 
years ago, when Gen. Custer organized an expedition at 
Fort Abraham Lincoln. They reconnoitred in all direc- 
tions, then passed through Bare Butte toi the Black Hills. 
Earlier than 1855 scientists had visited the Hills, risking 
their lives, for they were good as massacred if they 
chanced to run on to any one of the thousands of Sioux, 
whose entrenchment might be behind their large herds of 
buffaloes, the hunting of these animals being one of their 
oc cupations. But on comparing the present with the past, 
Avhat a mighty change has been effected ! 

Let us glance back to some of its early history w^hen 
was given the grass dance of the Crows while at war with 
another tribe; both were encamped on the grass plats of 
the lower Missouri, each tribe was waiting for an oppor- 
tunity to wipe the other out of existence. In the night 
the Crows made sheaves of grass, enveloping themselves 
in them, then squatting, they made their way through 
the swaying grasses, fell upon their foes and massacred 
them. Conceiving this costume to be of great beauty r 
they danced in it. This new dance was transmitted from 
tribe to tribe, and it was permitted to survive the "sun 
dance," because it was unaccompanied by physical tor- 
ture. But fast as possible, civilization has suppressed 
all of these barbarous practices. 

The "sun dance" was the conception of the Omahas, 
and Kain in the Face. In houses called "Omaha houses" 
they were, and perhaps are yet allowed to gather, and 
trip the light fantastic steps of this dance. They are, 
when indulging in this dance, nude but for breech clouts r 
they are brilliantly painted, and w r ear bristling feathers 
tinted in many colors. From ten to twelve holes are 
pierced in their ears, from which dangle pendants and 
rings. Streamers of eagle feathers are attached at the 
back of waist, which trail and represent grasses, helping 
to emphasize the motions of the dance, which is made 
from the hips; on their knees and ankles they wear strings 
of bells. During the process of the dance a dog is cooked; 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 293 

this, with hardtack supplied by the government, consti- 
tutes the feast. 

How redolent and unendurable must be the atmosphere, 
laden Vith the unsavory mess, combined with tobacco 
smoke, and their perspiration. 

The wild days of Deadwood, and of other towns, were 
between 1877 and 1885. At that time a tenderfoot was 
in danger if he was so audacious as to wear into camp a 
white shirt. But if he came in the regulation suit, a 
slouch hat, high strapped boots, belt filled with dirks and 
revolvers, and walked with a swagger, intimating "Hail 
fellow, well met," he was immensely popular. With the 
advent of railways and elegant boudoir cars, and others 
of convenience and comfort, came the pushers of civiliza- 
tion, and then decorousness and quiet displaced the noise 
and brawls of the lawless. 

Ox teams, drays and stages "cleared out," as trains 
spurred their way to every gulch and to the dump of 
nearly every mine. About nineteen years ago the ques- 
tion of purchasing the Black Hills was submitted to the 
Sioux. 

It was on an Indian summer's day, in the latter part of 
September, that the commissioners arrived by appoint- 
ment. They pitched their tents under a cottonwood tree, 
where they looked out upon a vast prairie and on to Crow 
Butte, whose rocky, mountainous surface reared high in 
air. It appeared like the ruins of an old castle. A small 
company of cavalry and soldiers were drawn in line to 
give dignity to the scene. 

For some time they waited and listened for the first 
approach of the Indians, and had decided they were to 
be disappointed, when suddenly they changed their minds, 
for in the distance was heard the hoof-beats of horses. 
As they drew nearer there were so many thousands of 
them they fairly made the ground tremble. They swung 
in sight, a confused mass of brilliant colors. 

There were five thousand of these Sioux, decked out for 
this occasion. On they came, firing volleys from their 
guns and howling their war songs. Madly they rode in 
circles round and round the tent, a yelping, maddened 
mass of redskins, firing as fast as they could pull the 
trigger of guns. Indians on foot soon swelled their num- 
bers to 7,000. The commissioners, in helpless fright, did 
not offer to open the council, and expected to be massacred 
as the Indians stationed themselves about them in great 
anger and with fiendish actions. 



294 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

Immediately two naked warriors galloped through the 
ranks, which opened for them as they came. One was 
"Little Big Man/' very small, but with a voice like thun- 
der. He had ridden from the "Big Horn" as fast #s his 
horse could bring him, for his tribe had heard of the 
council and treaty, and he came to tell the Sioux not to 
give up the lands at any price, but to end the matter by 
killing the whites. Then out of the angry multitude 
came "Young-Man-Much- Afraid-of-His-Horses," mounted 
upon his pony. Majestically he stretched out his arm 
and told them to go back to camp until they were better 
prepared to transact business. He possessed great influ- 
ence over them, and they instantly wheeled on their ponies 
and disappeared as though racing with the wind. Gladly 
we leave this subject and return to the present and the 
Fair where, from the beehives of the vast earth, its chil- 
dren swarmed from every direction, each a committee of 
observation for themselves, in order that they might re- 
port what States or countries would yield the most honey. 
So we expect no mistakes have been made by those mil- 
lions of observers in locating their interests. Not as did 
emigrants of an early day, to whom it was experiment, 
when starting out to find a new home in a country, their 
wagons placarded with the motto, "Pike's Peak or Bust." 
Too often the sequel was added, "Busted." 

Much knowledge had before been gained regarding 
these great western sweeps of country, and added to that 
gained at the Fair, it would seem impossible for any more 
victims to be gathered in by the "boomer." 

In the center of the South Dakota building, mounted 
high on rolls of wool, was a large sheep. Here was given 
figures and statistics regarding this industry. Artistic- 
ally arranged were their grains and grasses, the wheat 
exhibit being especially attractive. 

On the second floor we found lovely handiwork done by 
the women of this State. The large portrait of Gov. Mil- 
lette strongly resembled that of Gen. Grant. On the 
walls were pictures of public buildings and private resi- 
dences in an architecture of which they had a just right 
to be proud. 

The picture of the corn palace was of wondrous beauty. 
Very natural and attractive were the moss roses painted 
by Carrie Scott and presented to Margaret Wylie. The 
former become the wife of President Harrison. The latter 
became Mrs. Millette. She is the wife of the gentleman 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 2#& 

m the picture just mentioned. He was Dakota's last 
territorial governor. The painting of moss roses was a 
cherished memorial of an early friendship between these 
two ladies, and also a sad reminder that the loving hands 
which had painted it were quietly folded. Yet, while her 
soul lives on in another sphere, we tenderly recollect all 
of her good, womanly qualities, and a higher compliment 
could never be bestowed on any lady than to be likened to 
her. 

The refined culture of Dakota's women was most appar- 
ent in the exhibition of their literature, the representa- 
tions of their refined, beautiful homes, elegant oil paint- 
ings, decorated china, and much more besides, which must 
be passed by. 

There were shown rare old works from the sixteenth 
century, a painting of the "Holy Family" and another of 
the "Last Supper." 

There was exhibited a cottage made of minerals. It 
was solicited by the ladies of Custer City. Then a miner's 
cabin, furnished with every necessary article for such a 
life. It was the most complete model of its kind in the 
world. It was made by a boy twelve years old. 

Embroidered on white silk, with human hair, by a col- 
ored woman, was seen the portrait of Abraham Lincoln. 
It was an artistic work of art. A prairie chicken shoulder 
cape was shown, which was done by Mrs. Fuller, whose 
famous opera cloak was shown in the "Woman's Build- 
ing." The portrait of the lady showed her to be pos- 
sessed of fine features, while her work proved that she 
possessed skillful fingers. 

A cabin containing a piece of wood from every State 
in the Union was modeled and built by the Sisters of 
Mercy of St. Joseph's Academy. Its unique furniture 
was made of quills and feathers of geese, fastened together 
with pins. Near it was a crucifix of the twelfth century 
and a Bible nearly four hundred years old. In glass cases 
we found many things of interest, including many cloths 
from their different looms ; but special mention should be 
made of the elegant damask from their linen mills. 

In a newspaper printed in 1828 we give the substance 
of a story, varying the conditions of it in order to leave 
out what was objectionable. A young gentleman of Ox- 
ford fell in love with an innkeeper's daughter and left 
college to marry her. His father felt the disgrace so 
keenly that he cut him off without a shilling, then died of 



296 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

grief. They were left miserably poor. Unhappily, the 
young couple thought upon their beggarly condition, and 
of the beggars which might be born into the world. In a 
dazed, strange state of mind they were agonized with pre- 
monitions of great sorrow and suffering in the future. 
In desperation he watched his wife's fingers fly at her 
knitting, and thought out and devised, with the assist- 
ance of his wife, the knitting machine. 

At the west end of the building was a collection of petri- 
fied fossils, the skulls and jawbones of animals. There 
were objects which appeared to have once been vegetables. 
One, we knew, had once been a fine, juicy ham. These 
specimens were of fascinating interest even to those not 
students on these lines; but to scientists and geologists 
it was a delightful, intellectual feast. 

Mrs. Hanie and Mrs. Millette were the motive powers 
which caused this building, which cost $25,000, and the 
exhibits in it to be a success. It was built by contribu- 
tions from the ladies of the State, who worked in unison 
with these ladies. Efficient work was done by Mrs. Oli- 
ver, but Mrs. Hanie was the main worker. She rode hun- 
dreds of miles by car and carriage soliciting funds and 
exhibits. Language of the most forceful strength is in- 
adequate to express how difficult the work was which was 
performed by the women officials, as well as by the gentle- 
men. Both of these made an orderly and systematic ex- 
hibit, and the pleasure it conveyed to others can never be 
measured in words. All officials were ever on the alert 
to improve their exhibits, and were very energetic; but 
we cannot refrain from stating that the women represen- 
tatives in the Fair were the main spokes in the wheel. 
We know when a business-like woman does a thing it is 
so well done that it cannot be improved upon. 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 297 



WASHINGTON, 

Prior to the purchase of Alaska, Washington was the 
extreme northwestern territory of the United States. She 
is one of the youngest States in the Union, but she has 
progressed very fast, like western States usually do. 

She expended f 100,000 on her exhibit, which was large 
in every department, that in the "Fish and Fisheries" be- 
ing very complete. When George Washington was 
elected president, this State's magnificent islands, her 
adjacent seas and the mighty river Columbia were born 
with the great republic, the United States of America. 

When a territory, this philanthropic State began edu- 
cating the Indians to be self-supporting. Many of them 
are born sailors, owning sea-going schooners, and are 
agency traders, storekeepers and successful business men. 
Their splendid school for both sexes at Bahaida has 
changed these former freebooters and fierce savages into 
peaceful, industrious citizens. 

Previous to this there might be chronicled the discov- 
eries of the north Pacific regions by the navigators of 
other nations, which, if space could be spared, would ren- 
der intelligible the measure of national claims to the 
territory lying north and west of the Columbia Eiver, 
which gave origin to what might be called the "Oregon 
controversies," that half century of contention between 
the United States and Great Britain as to the sovereignty 
of that portion of the State. 

Earlier than 1845 there was an educated preference 
among the Indians for the "King Georges," as they called 
the English, who incited the Indians to direct and open 
hostilities against the American settlers, whom the In- 
dians called the "Bostons." 

Those who have read the history of the State of Wash- 
ington know how it would weary if a full account were 
given of it, so touching a little here and there, before 
going back to the World's Fair we'll stop at the Whitman 
massacre of 1847, which occurred at an early day in that 
State. 

Dr. Marcus Whitman and wife crossed the continent on 
horseback in 1836. They established a mission at Waii- 
latpu, under the auspices of the "American Board of For- 
eign Missions." There were provided houses for the sav- 



298 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

ages, work shops, a school house, mill and place of wor- 
ship, and, as much as possible, all accompaniments of 
civilization. 

The Whitmans treated the savages as children of our 
common Father, but with the most merciless perfidy the 
treacherous Cayuse Indians murdered them, with nine 
others of their household. A mound near this site marks 
the resting place of these victims of Indian jealousy, super- 
stition and hate. 

The Oregon pioneers had been denied all protection by 
the Federal government, but nobly they restored peace 
and avenged the martyrs' death. The battle field account 
of that war is in Washington. It was a war declared and 
waged by the Oregon provisional government before the 
United States extended its jurisdiction over it. 

At the very birth of this State its future development 
and greatness were believed to depend upon the building: 
of the Northern Pacific Railroad, with the location of its 
terminal port upon Puget Sound. For half a century the 
agitation was continued, and after great expenditure of 
money and energy, on September 7, 1883, the last spike 
was driven, sixty miles west of Helena. 

A few days later Oregon and Washington celebrated 
this great consummation. A year later the tunnel 
through the Cascade Mountains was completed, and a 
great work of the century had been finished. Washing- 
ton, Montana, with North and South Dakota, were ad- 
mitted into the Union in 1889, and the act was approved 
by President Cleveland on the anniversary of Washing- 
ton's birthday. 

Many fascinating and interesting incidents might be 
told of this State and of the few pleasures and hard labor 
of her pioneers, but we hurry to her culmination of suc- 
cess, which she presented at the World's Fair in material 
wealth and natural resources, vast and inexhaustible, 
lining up equally with the resources of the other great 
western States which have already been mentioned, mak- 
ing it unnecessary to name her products in full. 

Near the entrance of the south annex was a crayon 
portrait, looking like a steel engraving, of George Wash- 
ington. This was by Artist Satterfield, of Mt. Yernon, 
111. Its frame, a laborious and fine piece of work, was 
composed of seventy-seven pieces of wood. It was made 
by J. E. Zeemer. The woods were secured by Mr. Maxey, 
who spent more than two years in Washington, scaling 



- SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 299 

mountain peaks, and trudging through deepest valleys, 
securing the finest woods in the world. The woods of 
Washington compare in height, size and beauty to those 
of California. 

Above Washington's portrait was an immense eagle 
carved of wood, by Artist C. B. Fetters, of Elensburg. 
Another of his pieces was a carved scene in a mill yard. 
In this were seen logs, a mill, a railroad track, a ship 
steaming away from the dock, and looking in another 
direction were observed fields of grain, uncut and in 
stacks. Appropriately, at this time, a quotation may be 
given from one of Washington's writers, Mrs. Josephine 
Brinkerhoff : 

"The sultry noon sleeps on the drowsy hill, 
Where fragrant grasses ripen in his beams, 
While swarthy summer in voluptuous ease 
Stretches her lazy length beside the stream." 

Regretfully we left poetry to look on leather, tanned 
with extract of white hemlock, then upon wrapping paper 
made from fir and Cottonwood, by the Fir Co., of Everett. 
Next to look upon a specimen from the Roslyn mines of 
Kittatas County. It was taken from a slope 1,700 feet 
long, and is the largest lump of semi-bituminous coal ever 
handled. It was twenty-six feet in length, fifty-four 
inches high, over five feet through, and weighed 50,250 
pounds. A paper pasted upon it read: "Beat me and you 
are entitled to the chicken." 

So far as is known of the coal area of this State, it has 
1,000,000 acres. Over 2,000 specimens were shown of 
their fruits, which compared with those of California and 
Idaho. Like both these States, Washington is rich in 
mineral products. Her sea sand has gold in it. It is as 
white as snow, and looks like granulated sugar. 

There was shown a vase turned out of the largest piece 
of cedar in the world. By it a red fir block nine feet in 
diameter. The flagstaff fronting the building, of the same 
wood, was 215 feet high. It was cut in two, in order to 
transport it to the grounds, where it was spliced together. 

On Chicago day, a steeple climber wound it from its 
top down to the ground in red, white and blue bunting. 

AH the stones about the flagstaff were heavy with gold 
and silver. On the walls everywhere were mammoth 
paintings of her lovely scenery. Her fish, oysters, crabs, 



300 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

and such were represented, as was the fruits in fancy 
glass jars. The oysters and all products from the waters 
of this State are of unusual size. 

Her natural history exhibit was large. Fronting it 
was the skeleton of an "Elephas Primigenius," the largest 
ever found. It was discovered in Spokane County. It 
was thirteen feet high, and is owned by the Chicago 
Academy of Science. 

As we wandered over 22,000 square feet of this building, 
we happened on a flight of stairs which brought us into 
the ladies 7 parlor, and from there to the cool stone porch. 
But time was precious, and we hastened back to the 
miniature farm scene situated in the center of the build- 
ing. 

It represented a 500 acre farm. Men were reaping and 
stacking wheat, leaving the stubble behind them. The 
cook house, on wheels, was drawn by horses to whatever 
spot the men were working, stopping to cook meals and 
feed them. Large forces of men work together there, so 
that when the day's work is done they camp out sometimes 
twenty miles from where they started, so we readily per- 
ceive the necessity of a traveling cook house, which also 
carries other conveniences, such as blankets for the men 
to wrap themselves in at night, in which they sleep. In 
many ways it was shown how differently work is man- 
aged on a vast expanse of land. In the center was the 
farmhouse, barn, and all home or farm accompaniments. 
Hundreds of bags of grain stood about, everybody chewed 
wheat, and everybody appeared welcome to all they could 
chew. 

All this State's cereals were large and perfect, and her 
exhibit showed careful preparation. 

The walls of her building were lined with pictures of 
her public institutions — the State University, Agricul- 
tural College, Normal Schools, churches, colleges, and 
public schools of high rank. All her instructors receive 
the highest salaries. The school exhibit from Olympia 
was very neat and orderly, and like Illinois, gave the 
clearest and most concise explanation of their school 
methods. 

In her city schools is taught physical culture, drawing, 
molding, handcarving on wood. The latter is done by 
younger pupils on white soap. The botanical display, 
because it was so perfectly mounted, was intensely inter- 
esting. 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 301 

The kindergarten work of children, ranging from four 
to six years of age, was the very neatest seen at the Fair. 
Examination papers of lower grades and the higher were 
neat, orderly, and above criticism. We leave you to imag- 
ine how beautiful the ladies' hand-painted china and 
fancy work must have been to grace the interiors of pala- 
tial homes, which were pictured on the walls, and glanc- 
ing at the exteriors, more certainly proved it to be a truth 
that elegance and refinement in rich and tasteful splen- 
dor may be seen in the luxurious homes of the' residents 
of the State of Washington. 

In the next annex we found heirlooms belonging to 
families whose relatives brought them into the State when 
they settled there. Among these exhibits was a hand- 
made, guipure lace scarf. It was inherited by Mrs. Jay 
from her great-grandmother. Next a complete set of 
war scrip valued at $50, and not marked high-priced 
enough. A watch which resembled a small clock, for size, 
was loaned by Mrs. Williams. It belonged to the great- 
grandfather of Jefferson Davis. It is altogether too large 
for wear in this age of speed, as its wearer would lose 
time lugging it about. 

Note. — The mammoth timbers which ran the length of 
this building were over 118 feet long, while the broken 
lengths of timber ran frontwise 208 feet. 



302 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

IDAHO, "THE GEM OF THE MOUNTAINS." 

Idaho is an Indian word which, interpreted, means "the 
gem of the mountains." In her case it is no misnomer, 
for under her rugged, mountainous surface, awaiting the 
enterprise of man to utilize this wealth, is hidden the rich- 
est minerals and most precious gems. 

In this distinctly mountain State health is marked 
higher than any State in the Union. From the foothills 
of her mountains flow springs of crystal clearness, ice- 
cold, warm or hot. These are the sources which supply 
the greater rivers. Many send forth immense volumes of 
pure water, supplying cities and towns abundantly and 
at any temperature wished for, nature supplying it free 
of charge. South of Mountain Home is one of her wonder- 
ful springs, bursting forth from the palisades of the Snake 
Kiver, one of the four of this State's most important 
streams. The spring creates a large river of itself before 
joining the waters of the Snake, where it plunges with 
terrific force from a height of several hundred feet into 
the torrents below. 

These springs possess valuable medicinal qualities. 
Nearly every county in Idaho has its lake of placid water, 
surrounded by nature's park. Lakes in great variety 
accompanied by most picturesque scenery, abound in the 
mountain ranges. Payette Lake, the source of the Pay- 
ette river, which is situated in Boise County, is a favorite 
resort for the people of Boise City and its surrounding 
neighborhood. The lake is ten miles long, Aye miles wide 
and is particularly noted for its trout, red fish, whitefish, 
and for its unknown depths. Soundings of 2,600 feet have 
failed to reach bottom. It is surrounded by mountains, 
a wealth of lovely landscape, and its tranquil waters are 
unbroken by discordant sounds. So numerous are the 
lakes in Idaho that even to mention them would require 
more space than can be allotted in this topic. Nothing 
can exceed the tranquil loveliness of nature there. Rarely 
ever does the temperature fall to zero. The lowest tem- 
perature ever known in the history of the Boise signal 
station was 27.8. That was on January 6, 1888. At this 
time the signal officer walked regularly from his office to 
his residence without an overcoat, and noticed many men 
without them. Such habits are possible in this excep- 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 303 

tionally fine climate. This occurred during the period of 
twenty days, when one thousand persons froze to death 
between the Rockies and the Mississippi. 

In October, 1893, there had been no frost; the most ten- 
der vines and flowers were yet vigorous and fresh as in 
the spring. The States of Florida, California and Col- 
orado are endowed with genial climates, which approach 
perpetual spring and summer. There are favorite re- 
sorts, where tens of thousands flee for restoration to 
health, and whither most eminent medical men unite in 
directing the multitudes. In comparison with those 
States, the health-restoring climate of Idaho shows that 
the mortality in these are from three to fiye times greater 
than it is in Idaho. 

The United States troops are kept at Boise City, Idaho's 
capital. It is the healthiest post in the States; the death 
and disease rates there are the very lowest in the country. 
The troops are centrally located at this point, because it 
it most convenient to move out from if called into action. 
They are kept by the government cheaper here than at 
any other post in the country, the healthfulness of the 
spot having much to do with it. 

Italy, France and Algiers are the countries where in- 
valids suffering from pulmonary diseases are sent. Idaho 
compares favorably with these health-giving countries. 
Boise City is situated in Ada County, which was named 
in honor of the daughter of Hon. H. C. Biggs, one of Idaho's 
oldest pioneers. The capitol at Boise City cost $80,000. 
It is a beautiful city; its streets are lined with shade trees, 
and its buildings, handsome and costly, are elegant speci- 
mens of architecture in wood and stone. 

Ada County, in 1893, had eight thousand inhabitants, 
six thousand belonging to Boise City, the metropolis of 
the State. This city possesses more wealth per capita 
than any other city of its size in the Union. Artesian 
basins of hot and cold water supply the city's needs, the 
supply being sufficient for a population of 50,000. The 
city owns $125,000 worth of school property. It covers an 
entire block and is situated in the heart of the city. I 
cannot give the superintendent's salary, but the principal 
draws $1,500 per year, and teachers from $70 to $80 per 
month. 

The soil of Idaho is composed of decayed volcanic mat- 
ter, and through ages of disintegration of lava, basaltic 
and other rocks have formed the richest producing and 



304 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

the most enduring soil under cultivation in the world. 
Its soils vary according to location, and are of four classes. 
First, the mountain soil, in its timbered section, is exceed- 
ingly rich in vegetable mold, very deep and black. Sec- 
ond, the plains and plateau soils contain all elements re- 
quired for the production of vegetation. Three-fourths 
of the arable land of Idaho is of this class. Third, the 
valley soils are of high excellence. They consist of ac- 
cumulations of decayed vegetable matter of unknown 
ages, which yet comes from the side of the mountains. 
This produces all products adapted to the climate of the 
State. Fourth, the natural products of its alkali soil is 
grease-wood and salt-grass, which are readily eaten by 
cattle. After this soil is deeply plowed and the salt is 
washed out by irrigation fine crops of cereals may be 
raised thereon. 

Idaho raises the finest prunes in the world. Her fruits 
are of nearly every kind, of enormous size and delicious in 
flavor. At the Fair it was remarked time and again that 
her fruits were equal in size and quality to those of Cali- 
fornia. A four years 7 growth of young trees there yields 
two hundred pounds of apples; seventy-five pounds of 
cherries; one hundred and fifty pounds of peaches; one 
hundred and thirty pounds of pears; one hundred and 
fifty pounds of plums. These are not exceptional figures. 
Small fruits are very prolific. Hardy fruits are grown 
with success on the high elevations of the State. There 
are small orchards which produce from 20,000 to 50,000 
bushels of fruit annually. The climate is favorable for 
drying, and leaves them in possession of their flavor to a 
greater degree than is often met with. Grapes grow in 
heavy, long, luscious clusters. 

Travelers who for the first time go through Idaho on 
the Union Pacific Railroad are unfavorably impressed by 
the monotonous sage plains, which stretch far out to the 
right and left. These little dream that beyond in the 
north begins a region covered with timber, and the farther 
one penetrates into the State the greater is the wonder 
and admiration of the beholder. Her forest area is 
7,000,000 acres. She has 25,000,000 acres of grazing 
lands, covered mostly with bunch-grass (so called because 
it grows in bunches similar to timothy). 

We immediately recognize that with judicious manage- 
ment money may be made there in stock raising. On 
their ranges are found thoroughbreds and high grades of 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 305 

all the most approved breeds. In this State are over 
400,000 sheep, the mountains and hills being eminently 
adapted to the raising of these useful animals. In Idaho 
that industry is the poor man's opportunity, for no other 
branch of stock raising brings wealth and independence 
so quickly as does sheep raising on a small capital. Many 
become rich on the lease system by securing a flock of 
sheep for a term of four years only. The lessee, at the end 
of this time, returns one-half of the wool clippings, half 
of the increase and all of the original number. One herder 
obtained a lease of one thousand head, which in four years, 
had increased to seven thousand; then the lessee owned 
3,000 sheep, worth $10,000, and $5,000 worth of wool. 

There are 7,500,000 acres of public government land 
open for settlement in Idaho. The Indian reservations 
contain 1,500,000 acres, which includes some of the State's 
finest agricultural land. 

The early explorers of this State were the same parties 
mentioned in the account of the State of Washington. It 
was through the patriotism, energy and personal efforts 
of Dr. Whitman, the missionary, which defeated the 
scheme of the Hudson Bay Company in securing all the 
territory north of Columbia Kiver to the sovereignty of 
England. Accidentally he was apprised of their inten- 
tions to secure this territory, while officials in Washing- 
ton did not know its value. Dr. Whitman, with but little 
preparation, started immediately overland. Just when 
he arrived in the States or Washington is not recorded. 
He was accorded interviews with President Tyler, Secre- 
tary of State Webster and members of Congress, in which 
he urged the importance of taking immediate action in 
extending the authority of the government over this terri- 
tory to save it from falling into the hands of England. 

He was surprised at their indifference, they arguing 
that the country was but barren deserts and rugged moun- 
tains, unfit for agriculture, and that it was not worth the 
trouble and expense. In vain Dr. Whitman labored to 
remove their erroneous ideas of this vast country. To 
prove they were mistaken, he agreed to pilot a train of 
emigrants to the coast. President Tyler promised to 
await the result of the experiment before concluding the 
settlement of the boundary line. 

Guided by Dr. Whitman, 875 emigrants, with 1,300 head 
of cattle, their wagons loaded with the most necessary 
articles, traveled over the plains, and on reaching the 



306 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

Columbia Elver made a settlement. This was in 1843. 
In 1849 emigration to this place had taken on such great 
proportions that their numbers had increased to 499,043. 

The task of collecting an exhibit from this sparsely 
settled State was not an envious or easy one. The first 
appropriation made was only $20,000. The executive 
.commissioner, Mr. Wells, instead of devoting his energies 
to efficiency and rapidity of work, was obliged from the 
outset to make economy a study, and not until an addi- 
tional appropriation was made of $30,000, which was on 
February 1, 1893, could the plans laid out by the commis- 
sioners be carried out with anything like vigor or cer- 
tainty. Fifty thousand dollars was not enough, but it 
was the highest possible sum to obtain of the Legislature. 

For many reasons the task of collecting Idaho's exhibits 
were difficult. First, there was but little material at 
hand to make a beginning. Scarcely a county fair had 
been held in the youngest State in the Union, and exhibits 
had to be dug from the ground or taken from the stump. 
Not in the whole State was there an organization of any 
kind for promoting the work to be done. There was not 
to be found a scientific person engaged in any special line 
of work. So with no associations of agriculture, horticul- 
ture, stock breeders, pomological or any other associa- 
tions, the commissioners in no department could find a 
ready collection. They reached out to others for help, 
but, regarding the State exhibit, the spirit of indifference 
seemed predominant among the masses. 

In the midst of solving these difficulties, with limited 
time allowed for work, the commission was called upon 
to bear great losses incident to two fifes and two bank 
failures. First the exhibits from Latue County were de- 
stroyed when the town of Kendrick burned. Second, a 
carload of agricultural exhibits, taxidermy and paintings 
were burned. This after every expense incident to their 
collection and shipment had been paid. While these were 
of intrinsic value, the loss to the State, inasmuch as they 
could not be replaced, could hardly be estimated by 
moneyed values. A World's Fair pavilion, erected at 
great expense, awaited the agricultural exhibit. The 
D,ext great calamity was the failure of the bank at Ward- 
ner, in which the Ladies' Columbian Club was victimized 
to the amount of $500. Following this came the greater 
loss of $1,543,59 through the failure of the Columbian 
bank, of Chicago. 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 307 

When we consider these discouragements of this com- 
mission, connected with their hard labors and anxiety, it 
must have been to them appalling, and only for the liberal 
terms granted by the Union Pacific Eailroad, Idaho's ex- 
hibit at the World's Fair would, in many respects, have 
been a failure. Often we wondered what their display 
would have been had they met with no losses, for had they 
not told us of them, we could never have known anything 
was missing from their exhibit, which, brought about by 
very hard work, was a grand success. 

President Clark, of the Union Pacific Co., indorsed a 
recommendation to Mr. J. A. Monroe, general traffic man- 
ager, that a rebate be made Idaho of all moneys paid for 
freights over their road, which was over f 5,000. This 
was done. Such liberality cannot receive too much com- 
mendation. Over the long distance they generously 
hauled huge timbers, rock and other material, which, after 
all exhibits had been brought through, amounted in 
freightage to a great deal more than the sum mentioned. 

The architecture of the building represented a Swiss 
cottage, but when looking on its massive stone founda- 
tion, running half way to its roof, in fancy we were on a 
ranche, looking off onto mountain peaks; buffaloes grazed 
in the distance; Indians skurried over the plains, and 
their arrows whizzed through the air at the buffaloes. 
Oxen were corraled near by, and silken-haired Angora 
goats skipped from one craggy height to another. 

As we swung back the heavy wooden gate and passed 
through a cavern-like opening like that of a cave into the 
somber darkness, we found ourselves in a mica hall, which 
was worthy of note, as mica for practical use is found in 
only one other State in the Union, viz. : North Carolina. 

Wooden benches were strung the length of this hall 
and in the rest of the rooms. At the right was a room with 
two small windows set in the solid stone. There was a 
fireplace, its mason work being of lava. This room was 
even darker than the hall, and had this building really 
been situated out in the mountains, we should have looked 
fearfully about for bandits. A young man of a certain 
kind did some artistic love-making in this room, which 
seemed almost in the heart of the mountains themselves. 
He said: 

"Dearest, let us be true-hearted, drop all frivolity and 
draw 'nearer to nature's heart.' Can you not fancy that 
you inhale the fragrance of mountain odors?" 



30S SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

The young lady was inclined to be serious, but the op- 
portunity given for repartee made the temptation too 
great, so she said: 

"Tell me, in all seriousness, do you think the fragrance 
of 'old rye' could possibly be fancied by anyone as being a 
mountainous odor?' 7 

But the environments of the occasion soon caused the 
lady to become quite poetic, and in answer to his proposal 
of marriage she said: 

"I believe that your love for me is stronger and more 
enduring than even these granite rocks by which we are 
surrounded, and I will say I reciprocate your granite-like 
love." 

Although the writer has not given the whole of the 
conversation, she was much impressed with the oratory 
and sentiment, especially when he said: 

"My love for you will ever remain pre-eminently strong 
as are these granite rocks." 

The writer would not be misunderstood in her appre- 
ciation, upon which she cannot express her feelings on 
this affecting episode, but, for the sake of effect, will add 
that she made a long but vain search for a brick to throw 
at them. Their arrangements were made that they would 
marry on the next day, and when they discovered the 
august presence of the writer she made no attempt at an 
apology, but making a low, sweeping bow, which would 
have shamed one of Samantha's, she gave an impromptu 
but short congratulatory speech by saying: "May all 
your cares be 'little ones.' " 

In the most delighted manner possible to imagine they 
thanked the writer for her kindness, and she, completely 
overcome with her nervous flow of oratory, dug a penny 
out of her purse and hastened out to the first mineral 
water stand to recuperate for the rest of her trip through 
Idaho. 

On the opposite side of the hall was a lone room. On 
its window sills were a few house plants, and in the center 
of the room a long, bare table with the newspapers of 
Idaho upon it. Here we met an Idaho State commis- 
sioner, Dr. Jennie Beardsley. She was also a press rep- 
resentative from Mountain Home, Elmore County. In 
the next room she showed, mounted and covered with 
glass, the flora of this State, which is beautiful and plen- 
teous. This room, which was situated back of the office, 
was filled with hundreds of specimens. The writer is very 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 309 

sorry to have lost the address of the young lady commis- 
sioner. She was so kindly and interesting, as she walked 
about her home of the mountains, telling of customs and 
the life there as we climbed stone stairs lying between 
dark walls, coming into rooms descriptive of much she 
told us. 

There were shown more than 135 varieties of lovely plu- 
maged birds. Skins of wild animals adorned the walls, 
floors, or they were thrown over rude chairs. On crooked 
saplings, fastened into the wall, lay the gun of the hunter; 
near it hung his coat of tanned deerskin; a little further 
on a large collection of Indian relics. There we saw the 
prettiest collection of arrow heads, made out of flint and 
cornelian, we had ever seen. 

In another room was a collection of the State's cereals 
and grasses. Very luscious and tempting, seemed the dried 
fruits. Strings of dried herbs and red peppers hung from 
the rafters; peering upwards, light was seen coming 
through the roof. Below were the coarse board floors. 
Even the woodwork was old and battered. It was a fine 
representation of long usage. 

In other rooms kettles hung in the fireplaces, dishes and 
frying pans were placed in the rude cupboards, and a 
four-poster cord bedstead, made up high, was covered with 
a heron-bone, pieced bed-quilt. This was adorned with 
small, narrow pillows, and it was a reminder of the early 
pioneer life of all the States. Doubtless many ladies re- 
member now when they were young girls that they were 
invited from their town home to remain over night with 
some girl chum residing in the country. They'd take what 
seemed to them the easiest way to climb into the high- 
built bed, a mountainous looking affair, by balancing 
themselves on the footboard and then ma king a long, wild 
plunge into feathery waves, they would emerge from its 
depths nearly smothered. The writer knows one who one 
uight lost her little two-by-four inch pillow, and as she 
vainly searched for it the other young lady awoke and 
asked, "What is the matter?" 

"I've lost my pillow." 

After a while her friend asked: 

"Did you find your pillow?" 

"Yes." 

"Where did you find it?" 

"In my ear." 

The drinking cups in this building were of solid silver. 



310 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

They were attached to solid silver chains, which were 
welded to the water pail. Upon them was inscribed,. 
"Idaho silver. Presented by the ladies of Mineral, Wash- 
ington County, Idaho. 77 

The State's mineral display numbered over seven thou- 
sand specimens in gold, silver, flashing gems, mica and 
others. The lead product was very great. It is most 
plentiful in Idaho, Ada County taking the lead. Idaho 
produces the finest mica in the world. Sheets of it mea- 
suring 12x20 inches, clear as glass, are taken out of the 
McConnel mine in Latuh County. Mica was discernible 
everywhere upon the rocks in this building, which seemed 
to have brought with it the very silence and air of the 
mountains, and fancifully we pictured ourselves living 
in a long, low-roofed log cabin in the midst of a ranch in 
Idaho. Does the reader, like the writer, feel an inspira- 
tion and longing for emigration and prospecting? If so, 
you've joined me in this message to her people and State: 
"Wait, Idaho; we're coming, Idaho. Our four-horse team 
will soon be seen way down in Idaho." 



_-__- 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 311 



CALIFORNIA. 

This building was patterned after the old mission 
church of San Diego, but was larger. It was 144 by 435 
feet in dimensions, and cost $300,000. 

On the garden roof was a roomy, flat, central dome 
room; in this and about the whole outside space, which 
represented a garden roof, were served meals. This build- 
ing was next in size to the Illinois Building, the total 
floor space being 100,000 square feet. 

California was largely represented in all departments. 
Her wine display in the Horticultural Building was a 
central attraction, and her display of tropical fruits, with 
the possible exception of that of Idaho, was the largest 
and best. Some of the fruit in the pyramid of oranges 
kept the whole six months. The California Building 
duplicated all exhibits made in her building in all other 
buildings. When there, it was a common thing to hear: 

"Oh! this makes me hungry." 

They were the finest of fruits, and were piled up in 
tempting and picturesque display, dried and laid in fancy 
boxes, or canned in large glass jars, which were finely 
patterned. Onions were shown as large as an ordinary- 
cabbage; a four-gallon jar frequently holding only four, 
or six pears or peaches. Luscious clusters of grapes hung 
on branches two or three feet long. 

There was exhibited a colossal knight mounted on a 
horse, both figures were composed of figs, prunes, dates 
and raisins. Another attractive object was a marble 
statue of a woman, her arms filled to overflowing with 
fruits, and crouching beside her was a grizzly mountain 
bear. It was hard to tell which county in this State made 
the finest showing, as they seemed parallel in this re- 
spect, yet Sacramento County, we thought, excelled. 

Everywhere were globes in which were represented 
cans of olives, pickles, fruits, etc, Everywhere w^ere 
arches, upon them were descriptive mottoes, and pictures 
relating to the resources of the State. Her large mineral 
exhibit was the largest and most attractive of any, filling 
numbers of glass cases, which covered a large amount 
of space. There was jasper, sapphire, chalcedony, emer- 
ald, sardonyx, amethyst, and hundreds of other speci- 
mens. Many of these were as transparent as crystal. 



312 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

The vast and beautiful array of quantities of gold and 
precious stones made it easy to believe in St. John's vision 
of the New Jerusalem. 

The serpentine jasper, quartz crystal, and others in 
purple-pink red, in every color ever heard of or known, 
lay before us in lavish beauty, and in fancy we walked 
through the gardens of the gods. High cliffs towered 
above us as we passed through those winding pathways 
of nature, and looked upon the grand splendor of rubel- 
lites in pink and white, throwing lights like the opal, 
then passing by iridescent limonite in shades of purple, 
orange and green, we came upon black marble cliffs. Try 
hard as we may, we cannot describe the beauties of one 
imaginative park, which we traveled through in 
this building, and if we made the mistake while there of 
describing some minerals which have never been seen 
there, possibly it helped to enhance the park's beauty; 
who knows? We saw high, shining, clear cliffs of onyx 
from Lower California, and photographed upon it were 
forests and mountains. We saw, transparent as water, 
great rocks of quartz crystal. The largest quartz crystal 
ever found was displayed in this building; it was so clear 
one could fairly see through it. It weighed 106 pounds. 

In the midst of this exhibit was the bronze statue of 
James W. Marshall. His left hand rested on the handle 
of his spade; in his right was held a fac-simile of 
the first nugget of gold which was found by him in Cali- 
fornia, at Colomo, El Dorado County, on January 19th, 
1848. 

The total yield of gold since that time up to 1893, was 
$1,310,000,000. The original nugget is now owned by 
W. M. Allan, of San Francisco. The placer gold, which 
is found in fine grains, when sifted by scientific workers 
yields them from $2 to $3 per day. The leaved gold on 
crystal, was like that shown from Colorado. 

In this building was shown a gold gavel which was 
made in the presence of the National Editorial Associa- 
tion. The gold was mined from one of this State's mines. 
It was cast into a brick and presented to them after it 
was made into a gavel. The handle was composed of 
mazanita and orangewood. Designs of gold were pat- 
terned over this, and the handle handsomely finished in 
gold at the top. 

California paid for her wants in gold; Idaho, and other 
W T estern States, in silver. A Californian stated that the 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 313 

new McCarthy Devisadora quicksilver mine paid $800 to 
the ton, and that in it is found gold, which is formed in 
curious shapes. He found in it a small gold snake, as 
perfect as though a goldsmith had fashioned it. He 
caused garnet eyes to be placed in it, which made a unique 
Watch charm. 

We looked upon the San Barnardo meteorite, which 
was found in the Ivanpah mining district. It weighed 
128 pounds. It was analyzed by Prof. Shepherd, and it 
was reported in the Journal of Science in May of 1880. 
It was composed of iron, nickel, phosphorus, graphite, and 
silver ore. It was a wonder to every one who saw it. 
Stibinite and antimony is a plentiful product of the State, 
and combined with copper makes the strongest shafting 
in the world. 

The Californian said it was a rare treat to be in Santa 
Barbara on flower festival day, which is celebrated once a 
year. Carriages and wagons are twined with blossoms 
in this land of flowers. Large pictures represented vehi- 
cles trimmed with roses, pansies and hundreds of other 
kinds of flora. They were so thickly twined up on the 
wheels and every part of the vehicles, the harnesses of, 
and the horses, too, that they were completely hidden in 
a profusion of blossoms. Each vehicle is driven by a 
young lady, dressed in white, an*d lavishly decked with 
garlands of flowers. Seated with her are stately beauties 
and lovely children, dressed in gay attire like her own. 

The procession is miles in length. So luxuriantly bloom 
the flowers there, that people may be as extravagant as 
they please with them, and then there is always plenty of 
them and more to spare. 

Cleopatra's needle was represented in fancy bottles of 
olives and olive oil of the celebrated Elwood Cooper brand. 
This display was made up and shipped direct from Mr. 
Cooper's olive farm in Santa Barbara. It is said olives 
of his raising are the finest flavored in the world. They 
have taken medals wherever exhibited, and received a 
medal and a special certificate of honor from World's 
Fair officials. 

A handsome booth from Fresno and Keene Counties 
represented a large display of citrons. 

On the second floor were mammoth paintings of "The 
Golden Gate," "The Yosemite," "The Leland T. Stanford 
University," pictures of his large vineyards, interior of 
his winery, and a picture of a free kindergarten which he 



314 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

established in memory of his young son, Leland, Jr. These 
are all to be found in Palo Alto, and they were painted 
by Reed and Gross, Chicago. 

We saw the photograph of Mrs. Susan Winans, who 
was the first white child born in Chicago, on February 
12th, 1812; the statement was given that she was in 1893 
yet living in Santa Anna. There was also on exhibition 
a palm tree planted in 1770 by one of the mission fathers, 
and lastly a tile was seen which came from the mission 
of San Juan. This mission was erected in 1776, and de- 
stroyed by an earthquake in 1812, while Franciscans 
were worshiping in it. The mission bells shown were 
small iron ones, and resembled the bell of old La Eabida. 

California's artists in the Fair ranked high in their 
works of art. They certainly possessed extraordinary 
merit. "A Street Scene of an Early Day in San Fran- 
cisco" was painted by Ernest N argot. "The Old Sailors' 
Home," by Lee Nash, looked very comfortable. "Sunday 
in California in Olden Days," by Charles C. Nail, told that 
they did not keep Sunday at all. Its characters were 
Spaniards, Mexicans, Indians and children. All these 
were of both sexes. Ox teams hitched to wagons were 
filled with tropical fruits, guitars were played by Span- 
iards, while Mexicans were giving songs and dances. 

In "The Glory of the Heavens," by W. M. Keith, the 
array of light and colors were phenomenally brushed. 
The works of Bent and Bond were perfect. The panel 
work done by Miss Reever deserves special mention. 
Grace Hudson's paintings of Indian children were espe- 
cially attractive, and were simply perfect in representa- 
tion. "Mendiceno," an Indian babe crying real tears 
which left upon his face dirty streaks. It was most cun- 
ningly brushed, but was of no better execution than was 
the first work mentioned. 

Some tapestry work, with one and one quarter million 
stitches taken in it, depicted the surrender of Mary, Queen 
of Scots, to the confederated lords at Carberg Hill; 
this intricate piece of work was accomplished by Mrs. J. 
F. Jenkins, of Los Angeles. She was fourteen years com- 
pleting it. Another, composed of one million stitches, 
was named "Weighing the Deer." Seven years were re- 
quired for its completion. 

There were great glass cases in which were displayed 
delicate sea mosses of every conceivable color. Then we 
admired some fine fancy work and rare patterns of lace 
work. 






SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 315 

Everywhere were seen panels of this State's woods, 
mingled with decorations of magnolia branches, whose 
leaves were gold bronzed. One charming little room was 
furnished in yellow and white. On the wall was an oil 
painting belonging to Mrs. Johnson, of San Francisco; 
the picture contained forty-one Persian cats and kittens, 
and inscribed on its frame was the sentiments of her hus- 
band regarding her pets. 

"If 'twere but one, I might conceal, 
The raging jealousy I feel, 
But with this crowd her heart to share, 
What little spot can I have there." 

A fire etching of Grover Cleveland was remarkably well 
done with a hot steel poker by Lilian O'Hara. We would 
not forget to mention one of the main attractions, the 
California shell rainbow portiere, composed of 12,000 
shells, valued at f 1,500. It was originated and designed 
by Mrs. S. M. Walker. These tiny shells she picked up on 
the beach at the summer resort, Santa Monica, in Cali- 
fornia. After gathering them they were handled individ- 
ually eight times and collectively six times, taking four 
months for the completion of the work. The shells were in 
shades of purple, yellow-white and pink, and by the untir- 
ing perseverance of the owner there was created a hand- 
some effect. 

There was some sheer material upon which was wrought 
running vines, fit for fairies' wear. It was done by two 
ladies, Miss Berry, aged 81, and Mrs. Lowden, aged 82. 
A painting by Thomas Hill, of historic interest, was 
entitled "Driving the Last Spike," which connected the 
Union and Pacific railroads. This occurred on Mav 10th, 
1869. 

On the southwest corner of the rotunda was seen a 
stuffed grizzly bear, the largest ever taken. It weighed 
1,800 pounds, and was captured by Capt. James Adams, 
while the state was comparatively new, in September of 
1854. 

Portraits of her noted men and women were largely 
represented. In the old Wells-Fargo Express Company 
exhibit, hanging from a beam, suspended on a string, was 
a conglomeration of good-for-nothing articles which they 
had carted over California. A few were, a Chinese para- 
sol, printed signboards, indigo bags, a glove, a rubber, and 
many other things which you'll be glad to hear were un- 
mentionables. 



316 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

Notices reading like this were placed beside pictures of 
old-time stage coaches: 

"On Sunday night, the 27th, the stage from Colfax to 
Grass Valley was stopped by four highwaymen, and our 
treasure box was robbed of f 7,000 in coin out of a leather 
pouch which was in the box. We will pay a reward of 
$2,500 in gold for the capture of the robbers or the re- 
covery of the coin. 

"L. F. ROWEL, 
"Ass't Supt. of Wells-Fargo & Co. 
"Grass Valley, July 28, 1873." 

In many instances, the robbers when captured were 
■dealt with as were the Ruggles brothers, who killed and 
robbed a messenger, viz.: Taken from jail, and hanged 
without a trial. , 

In a picture entitled "The Start, upon December 1st, 
1866," the lines were held by Mrs. Mary Langdon, who was 
the first and only woman mail contractor in the United 
States, and the finest four-in-hand driver on the coast. 
Early one summer's morning she drove away with pas- 
sengers and mail. All seemed right for a happy and safe 
journey, but a few hours later "Black Bart," the terror of 
the mountain, with his men, stopped the horses, and with 
drawn revolvers said: 

"Off and in line, every mother's son of you." 

The passengers were relieved of their valuables, but 
were thankful to get away with their lives. 

Black Bart was never captured, so 'tis not known 
whether he is living or dead. 

Strong iron boxes and mail bags lay torn open from 
the effects of dynamite explosions, one of which occurred 
in the year of the Fair. Four of the gang implicated in it 
were then in jail awaiting trial; they injured the messen- 
ger so badly it was thought he would not live; and in case 
he did not, it was expected that quick justice would be 
meted out to the prisoners by indignant citizens of the 
State without troubling judge or jury. 

The Wells-Fargo Express was founded in 1852 with a 
capital of $300,000 for their express and banking business; 
they speedily endeared themselves, by the pony service 
they gave to the miners living far in the wilds before rail- 
roads came their way. To-day the Wells-Fargo Express 
Co. interests span the American continent from ocean to 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 3 if 

ocean, and across the seas. The total number of miles it 
operates by railroad, steamer and stage is over 40,000, and 
it gives employment to over 6,000 people. All losses by 
robbery or other causes have always been promptly paid 
by them and their generous rewards have usually been the 
means of recovering much that was stolen from them. 

Wells Fargo was born May 2d, 1818, and died August 
3d, 1881. He was the first president of the company, 
which he was prominent in founding. 

Another large exhibit shown in this building, mostly 
Indian relics, was that owned by Gov. John Draggert, of 
Black Bear. In that exhibit were soup spoons and combs 
made of elkhorn, by the Obedian Indians. There was ex- 
hibited a piece of the white silk dress which Laura Keene 
wore on the night of which Abraham Lincoln was assass- 
inated. Stains of his martyred blood was upon it. Lying 
near the relic was the picture of the theater where he 
was shot. 

Next, a pen etching by Lily Blondin Ruggles. It was 
a copy of St. Antony, and was copied in 1891 from a 
cathedral window in Spain which was over three hundred 
years old. 

For the State's scenery, with which the building was 
lavishly decorated, the painters charged their brushes with 
truest colors, and guided by a fine instinct of hand and eye? 
did grand justice to her cliffs, thousands of feet high, and 
her water-falls. Projecting boulders watched like senti- 
nels over the secrets of their gorges, and we fancied our- 
selves upon the original spot, or traveling through her 
cities, towns and hamlets, the painting of which were so 
well represented. Such grandeur and beauty of scenery 
is seen only in California. 



818 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 



NEBRASKA. 

This fine two-story building, surrounded by porches, 
stood on a corner, across from the South Dakota building. 
With but few exceptions she was represented in all depart- 
ments. Her exhibit contained many interesting special 
exhibits. The building's interior was ornamented with 
staff and trimmed in profusion with designs of cereals and 
grasses. Scarcely anything can be mentioned which does 
not grow in Nebraska. 

Her counties made displays, in artistic booths. An an- 
telope stood at the entrance of Custer County, which 
county centered this State's exhibit. Mottoes in the 
exhibit stated, "Sugar is Queen, and Corn is King." 
Another antelope stood at the entrance of another 
county exhibit. Here, also, a relief work, in corn, 
which gave the State motto, "Before equality, the 
law." There was a finely executed design of our nation's 
flag in red, white and blue corn, containing 38,000 grains. 

In the parlor we found, as we did in many State build- 
ings, the fine toned "Bent" piano, manufactured in Chi- 
cago. A hat-rack and table, which were designed and made 
by Miss Carrie Barber, stood in the hall. The hand carv- 
ing was intricate, and its patterns "finely carried out. 

The school and university work exhibit was so perfect 
that it could not be improved upon, and this seemed to be 
the case from every part of the United States. 

There was exquisite painting on china by Nina Lombard. 
"Washington at Valley Forge" was executed by Ida Ben- 
nett. 

Prominent betimes were fervent mottoes of the relig- 
ious and temperance work, The history of one banner was 
very interesting. The linen of which it was composed was 
made by women in Pennsylvania one hundred years ago. 
Patriotic designs were upon it with the inscription, "Take 
the helmet of salvation and the sword of the Spirit, which 
is the word of God." The standard was made from trees 
planted by soldiers at Ft. Calhoun in 1819. The fringe 
was made of buttons worn by them. The display of tem- 
perance charts and other orders was magnificent, as were 
also pictures of the state institutions, and their paintings 
and fancy work. The paintings from nature and still life 
were very fine. Indian life, in an early day, was demon- 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 319 

strated by gaily painted designs on a tent which had been 
used by Ool. Cody when serving the Union with Grant and 
others of note. 

An object of much curiosity was a painting of the first 
homestead taken up in the United States, by Daniel Free- 
man, a white haired old patriot, whose portrait hung next 
to it These were painted by Mrs. McFarlan. It was a 
restful scene. It represented a broad sweep of green earth, 
dotted with trees. In the midst of them stood a log house 
and shed, with the wood piles and barrels standing about 
them. . ! ; I I i 



320 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 



MAINE AND INDIANA. 

At the Fair, Maine, the "old pine tree" State, 
braA^ely upheld in every department her motto, "Dirigo" (I 
lead). A grand State, which has sent to Congress the 
ablest of men, while a brilliant record was made by her 
sons during the war. 

Sportsmen come from all over America to fish in her 
lakes and rivers, teeming with trout and salmon. Her for- 
ests, the home of the moose, deer, and smaller game, cover 
more than half the State. This grand old State is rightly 
named, "The play-ground of the nation," "the health re- 
sort of America," and "the sportsman's paradise." 

The State is a leader in agricultural products. It also 
produces a fine quality of granite and slate. Within her 
boundaries there is a constant increase of factories and 
industries. Her coast line extends from Kittery to 
Quoddy Head, and it is 2,500 miles in length, with here a 
noble bay, there a broad inlet, or a broad river's deep 
mouth cut in the yielding soil. Set, gem-like, along its 
whole distance, on emerald clad isles, with scenery- grand 
and beautiful, are cliffs, rocks, and shell paved beaches, 
the whole environed by the broad Atlantic, into which 
flow the great rivers of the State. 

Maine to the world is what Herculaneum was to Rome, 
for from the cities of other States and countries come their 
people of wealth to build elegant summer homes, where 
they may walk between rocky cliffs, or on some of their 
beautiful islands loiter through sylvan dells, or take 
charming drives, inhaling the vigorous air of the ocean. 

Maine's fleets of 'steamship lines, replete with every lux- 
ury, ply between New York and Portland. On leaving 
New York harbor and passing down the bay one looks upon 
elegant residences, massive blocks, the magnificent Brook- 
lyn bridge, harbors and marine outlooks, green and gray 
islands, Brooklyn Navy Yard, Blackwell's Island, Hell- 
Gate, and many other points of interest. In the evening 
it is an entrancing sight, when passing illuminated steam- 
ers and lighted headlands, as the steamer plows her way 
on some journey taken to some distant point Then comes 
to the traveler glorious sleep, and he awakens to find 
himself sailing into the beautiful, island-dotted Vineyard 
Sound, to charming Cottage City. From there is passed 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 321 

Cape Cod. From thence the vessel sails out on to the 
grand old ocean. 

General C. P. Mattocks, of Portland, Me., was executive 
commissioner from this State. He is a college graduate, 
has practiced law over thirty years, and has served as State 
Attorney. During the Civil War he held commissions, 
commencing with first lieutenant, and was rapidly pro- 
moted from one office to another for bravery. He was 
brevetted brigadier-general for gallant and meritorious 
services in the campaign ending with the surrender of Lee. 

This building, and Indiana's, both were beautiful homes, 
and never will be forgotten the pleasant family from 
Maine, General Mattocks, his queenly wife, and stately, 
beautiful daughters. Nor would one, if they could, for- 
get the pleasant evenings and other occasions spent on 
''Indiana's" porch, in her parlors, or in strolls with its ex- 
ecutive official, Col. Havens, his amiable wife and daugh- 
ters. Col. Havens, in "Indiana's war report," receives spe- 
cial mention for daring and bravery. This State, as well 
as Maine, gave splendid exhibits in all departments. 



322 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 



CHICAGO DAY. 

This auspicious and historic day opened with booming 
of cannon and unfurling of the national flag on every pub- 
lic and private building, the Fair 'grounds being decorated 
lavishly in honor of the ovation. It was a color-dazzling, 
ear-splitting, fire-raining celebration throughout the day 
and evening. A greater "whoop-la" celebration than was 
ever any Fourth of July celebrated in America; an extrav- 
agant, wild, a tempestuous, western good time, such as 
only Chicago knows how to give, 

Hundreds of civic and other societies of all names from 
all countries and of all creeds marched. Soldiers, followed 
by artillerymen, were led by American cavalrymen, and 
the English redcoats from "TattersalPs." All nations were 
represented in the parade. The whole of "Midway" came 
out, except the Dahomians, who could not be trusted. 
There were girls from the Oriental theaters and from the 
"Congress of Beauty." They rode in open carriages. Fol- 
lowing them were the nearly naked South Sea Islanders. 
The procession entered "Midway" in 'grand array. Natives 
of the Holy City were seated on gaily bedecked camels, 
keeping up a deafening screeching with their instruments 
and playingf upon the noisy torn toms. Next was heard the 
gong playing given by the Chinese, who carried a mam- 
moth dragon, with shining green eyes; its tongue lolled 
out of its cavernous mouth, its body extended about one 
hundred and forty feet in length, while in line underneath, 
supporting it, walking in solemn mien, were twenty China- 
men, who balanced the fierce creature on their heads. It 
nodded and bowed, in all its terrific ugliness, to everyone. 
It passed by in great state and impressed all with its 
mythological greatness. Swelling the parade to great di- 
mensions was Col. Cody's "Wild West Show." 

In the evening, over one hundred and twenty-five floats, 
the finest display of the kind ever originated, passed 
through the World's Fair grounds, representing the early 
history of the world, our Nation, and Chicago by scenes 
which were acted in tableaux by the young men and 
women of Chicago and of the counties of Illinois. Just be- 
fore the parade reached the "Michigan" Building, an acci- 
dent of some moment delayed a portion of the gorgeous 
procession. In grand array there passed before us again, 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 323 

.as in life, notables long since gone from earth, so perfectly 
represented that as in a dream, we wondered if we were 
in the body or "out of the body." We saw all of the presi- 
dents, commencing with George Washington, on to Abra- 
ham Lincoln, Grant, and other noted people of the past. 
Following these were the representations of music, art, lit- 
erature, and science. These were represented by lovely 
young ladies in gauzy white robes, wearing golden wings 
and standing on globes. They looked like very angels. It 
was an entrancing sight. 

Four floats represented some of the history of Chicago. 
First, the erection of Ft. Dearborn, in 1802. Second, the 
Ft. Dearborn massacre of 1812, where the lone settler's 
wife leaned against the walls of her cabin home, in a 
pathetic attitude of horrified helplessness, while Indians 
battered at the door to gain entrance. Third, the city char- 
ter, in 1827. This was presided over by official-looking 
men. Fourth, the great fire of 1871. This was depicted in a 
gorgeous painting, and was followed by scenes of desola- 
tion. After this the gorgeous fireworks were given on the 
lake front. There were set pieces without number, his- 
toric of Chicago, showing many of her fine buildings, the 
cow which kicked over the lantern, and Chicago, in fire- 
works, burned again. But out of its ashes has risen the 
"Queen City of the West," and cheers went up from thou- 
sands of throats, as they proudly thought upon her phe- 
nomenal growth and progress, which has never been 
equaled in the history of any city in the world. For its 
size, it is no worse, morally or politically, than any other 
city. Its citizens, as Americans, have broad minded 
views regarding political and social problems, and have 
always been kind enough to allow the affairs of other 
countries to be criticised by their own countrymen. Very 
willing we are, that Americans shall tear down whatever 
they think is bad in our country. We have those perfectly 
capable of doing it, like Dr. Parkhurst, who has proved 
himself to be our leader, but who did not, like Editor 
Stead, feel called upon to go over to London to seek out 
its iniquity and advise the people of England what to do 
regarding it. 

Editor Stead did not seek heathen nearer home, as did 
Dr. Parkhurst, but rather sought notoriety in coming to 
Chicago to work a reformation, both politically and mor- 
ally, to the neglect of such affairs at home. It is the hon- 
est opinion of people of to-day, that Chicago is no more the 



324 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

"Sodom of the earth" than is any other city. There is no 
one who does not approve of Mr. Stead's bonest efforts 
toward moral or political reforms, no matter where, but 
as Americans w r e feel that England yet needed him, and 
that he bestowed a poor compliment on the good Chris- 
tian material to be found in Chicago and America. En- 
tirely unnecessary seemed his rampant talk to the "Wo- 
men's Clubs" of Chicago. In it he seemed inclined to be 
sensational; and when his book appeared it made a slight 
stir, and ended promptly in creating no sentiment in 
America. Had an American gone to London and searched 
out that which her residents already knew, and had he 
written and published a book entitled "If Christ Came to 
London," it would have received as few thanks and as lit- 
tle notice there as Mr. Stead's book did in America. 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 325 



THE ILLINOIS BUILDING. 

This great State -annually produces 300,000,000 bushels 
of wheat, and 230,000,000 bushels of corn. The building's 
dimensions were 160 by 470 feet. Here was held the State 
fair of Illinois at the World's Fair. 

The archaeological and geological exhibit was large and 
interesting. A special exhibit of lithographic stones was 
presided over by its owner, Martin O'Neal, of Thebes, 111., 
where is situated Mr. O'Neal's property, the only litho- 
graphic quarry known in the world. This stone is com- 
posed of more magnesia than lime, and it is found to lie 
390 feet lower than the bed of the Mississippi. 

In 1893, Mr. O'Neal had owned the quarry for two years. 
The stone was then being taken out at a depth of 325 feet. 
He has been in nearly every State in the Union, and from 
all of their geological indications he is satisfied his is the 
only newly discovered quarry of this kind in the world. It 
covers 165 acres, which he bought for $600. There is an- 
nually consumed of this article about 16,000,000 pounds. 

The lithographic stone was first found in Bavaria, Ger- 
many, over 263 years ago. It is sold from twenty -five cents 
to $1 per pound according to size. "If one piece weighed 
one pound, and three pieces weighed one pound, how much 
would there be in each of them?" There are no quarries 
now in Bavaria, though once it was so plentiful there that 
the inhabitants built houses of it. But for some years they 
have been tearing them down to procure this valuable 
and scarce stone, for which there is a great demand. 

If the genial, gentlemanly proprietor of the quarry at 
Thebes yet lives he is nearly seventy years of age. We trust 
he is hearty. He was a railroad contractor for forty-five 
years, and served last on the Cincinnati Southern to Chat- 
tanooga. He has filled some of the largest railroad con- 
tracts, and in connection with this work has handled the 
heaviest stone work in the United States. He is the father 
of four boys, one a telegrapher, the next an engineer, an- 
other a conductor. At the time of the World's Fair he 
said he thought the young son who was at home would fol- 
low out the family tradition, and be a railroad man too. 

In Mr. Wm. McAdams' department, his geological ex- 
hibit was thought by many to be the largest and finest ou 
the grounds. Opposite of these displays, in more brilliant 



326 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

colors than we had ever seen, of corn and other cereals,, 
was the agricultural exhibit in handsome pavilions. But 
the "Farm Scene" on the west side of the wall, composed 
of various growths of the State, was conceded by everyone 
to be the finest work of art ever accomplished with growths 
from nature. 

This represented the State's typical farm buildings, 
which were drafted by Mr. Drake. These stood upon a 
vast representation of land, the lay of it being like the 
farms of Mr. John Virginius and Mr. Fursman. These 
gentlemen are warm friends, and own the finest farms in 
Illinois. They are leading officials in her agricultural as- 
sociations, and authority on such matters. The horse in 
a corner of the barnyard was a correct representation of 
a $3,000 animal owned by Mr. Fursman. The team and 
farm wagon, worth $6,000, were a correct representation 
of those owned by Mr. Virginius. 

At each side of this picture were curtains looped back 
with cord and tassels made of small ears of corn. The cur- 
tains were composed of all the varieties and shades of fine 
grasses grown in this State. It was hard to believe them 
made of grass, for they looked like a rich foreign material, 
worth thousands of dollars. 

Back of the farmhouse, wheat was partly cut and in 
sheaves. At the right, in the garden, were currant and 
berry bushes. Hop blows stood in the garden for cabbage 
heads, and for shade trees maiden hair ferns. Sliced 
broom corn made the fences and sides of buildings, and 
cornhusks were used for roofs. Oat tail stalks were the 
material used in the corn crib, and sorghum in bloom made 
the gravel walk. What is the use of trying to make those 
understand who will not, that gravel does not walk. The 
cattle and horses were made out of millet and hemp. There 
was the wind mill; yes, everything that goes to make up 
or represent a typical farm in Illinois. 

This large scene was framed in ears of corn, placed in 
designs which looked like hand carving. This wonderful 
piece of work was accomplished by fifteen young ladies 
under the direction of Mr. Fursman and wife, of El Paso, 
Woodford County. 

One of the main artists was Miss Shur, the daughter of 
a banker in El Paso. She is endowed with exceptionally 
fine taste. Her people were warm friends of the Furs- 
mans, and she, as were all loyal citizens, being greatly in- 
terested in her State's exhibit at the Fair, lent her hands to 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 327 

this work out of pride and love for her State; her part, 
with Mr. and Mrs. Fursman, being that of general dicta- 
tion. Nothing could be truer to nature, nor show deeper 
study or more labor than was shown in the perspective, 
lights and shades of this picture. This effect was due to 
Miss Vida Weborg, but Miss Daisy Hortop, Miss Jessie 
Buckner, and the rest of the fifteen were fully as essential 
in helping to complete and bring the picture to perfection. 
If the names of all of the young ladies were remembered 
it would be a pleasure to give them here. 

We felt we would like to take a run over the hill in this 
picture, for we fancied we should find there a river with a 
sandy bottom and pebbles looking up through its crystal 
clearness. A flock of birds, seemingly frightened, were 
flying up from behind the hill. This added much to the 
reality of the scene. These were done by a young man who 
would make his fortune as an artist, if perchance, he al- 
ways was as fortunate to be unfortunate as was he then. As 
he was descending the ladder for the last time after the 
picture was fully completed, this fortunate artist dropped 
his hatchet against the sky effect upon the canvas, and the 
quickest record ever made, even by any painter of note, 
was done by him, for his hatchet drew upon the canvas a 
perfect and a large flock of meadow larks. It was a 
famous addition. The artist for a few seconds was in a 
frightful "slough of despond" and thought his reputation 
was forever lost, but in a few succeeding seconds Mr. and 
Mrs. Fursman and all of the artists of the picture decided 
that he had committed upon the canvas a very creditable 
showing of birds. One young lady went so far as to as- 
sert she could hear them singing. We are sorry, indeed, 
not to be able to give this distinguished artist's name to- 
gether with that of the famous painter of birds. 

"Memorial Hall" was in charge of Mr. John Gunter and 
W. M. Sands, who, if they yet live, are custodians of old 
Memorial hall at Springfield, as they were appointed for 
life. Mr. Gunter, who was colorbearer of the 21st 111., un- 
der Gen. Grant, said : 

"Our family all are, and always have been life long Dem- 
ocrats. I was shot on the 30th of December, 1862." 

Pointing to a glass case, where rested some small bones, 
he continued: 

"On February 22, 1863, those were extracted from my 
arm in the Louisville Hospital. In 1887 another bone was 
removed." 



.328 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

We looked into glass cases where lay tattered and hon- 
ored battle flags. Nearby, upon the floor, lay old artillery. 
We looked with veneration upon the chair in which Gen. 
Grant sat throughout camp life. What a story of love and 
reverence the old chair might have told of him, could it 
have spoken. A saddle also might have related silent stor- 
ies and grown eloquent as fancifully it once more carried 
Gen. Logan through brilliant campaigns. Next was shown 
the portrait of martyred John Brown, and one of the 
famous pikes he ordered of Rust & Son. 

It was our fortune to meet Mr. Rust, Sr., near this ex- 
hibit, who told many interesting things of John Brown. 
Mr. Rust said: 

"One morning John Brown came to our house, and bar- 
gained with my son and I for 1,000 pikes, which we made 
for him at f 1 apiece. While there he remarked, 'I believe 
that if every person is armed with one of these pikes they 
will be able to defend themselves from the enemy stand- 
ing in their own door.' John Brown's family and mine 
were intimate friends. Personally, he and I were close 
friends. I loved him, he loved me. He was possessed of a 
quick, impulsive, and passionate nature, yet was very 
kind hearted. He believed that sharp, energetic work, 
combined with plenty of assertiveness would hasten and 
end slavery." 

Pointing toward the John Brown relics, Mr. Rust re- 
marked : 

"There is his field glass, which was used by him at Ossa- 
watama, in the Kansas campaign, and there lies the gold 
medal which was given his widow in recognition of his 
bravery there. Here are the presentation letters, which 
were written by Victor Hugo, and by residents in 
Kansas when the medal was presented to him." 

Afterward Mrs. Brown and family presented this and 
other relics to the Kansas historical library. There lay his 
hand Bible, which was read constantly by him a few days 
before his execution. There were hundreds of markings 
in it, referring to oppression and slavery. The last words 
written by him are: 

"I, John Brown, am now quite certain that the crime of 
this guilty land will never be purged away but with blood." 
And how prophetic the utterance was. 

Most appropriate it seemed that we should next look 
upon a part of the long, black coat worn by President Lin- 
coln when assassinated. We could see his white, care- 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 329 

worn, suffering face after the fatal shot. And there arose 
before us a vision of Mrs. Lincoln, dressed in the low- 
necked, short-sleeved silk dress of pink and white, which 
lay before us. We looked upon many other of her gar- 
ments, fans and jewelry. These she had used before the 
dark shadows of sorrow swept over her pathway. There 
was the martyred president's mixed gray shawl which he 
wore from Springfield to take his seat as president. It was 
always carried by him ready for use up to the time of his 
death. There was his pocket knife, a locket containing a 
lock of his hair, and a small wood carved medallion of him 
which was made during the Civil War. There was one of 
the original programmes of his funeral procession, printed 
in white letters upon black silk. A cup and saucer which 
he had drank from two weeks before his death, was an in- 
teresting relic. 

In another room we saw a bell which was, presented in 
1782 to the Kaskaskia Mission of Illinois by Louis, king of 
France. Then a sugar bowl and teapot, over a hundred 
years old, which had been handed down by the descendants 
of Pocahontas. 

Other interesting exhibits were the wooden leg worn by 
Gen. Santa Anna when captured in the Mexican War, and 
the bright brass caps and breastplates used in this war. 

Leaving these silent and saddening historical events be- 
hind us, w£ walked to the center of the building, where 
rocks were piled high and rugged, making a picturesque 
drinking fountain. Cups were chained to it ready for use, 
and out of its rock-like sides ran pure cold water. Run- 
ning up its sides were vines. In niches rested calla lilies. 
Up on its top grew palms, and patches of moss grew here 
and there. 

Next, we passed into a grotto. As we walked we heard 
water running; as we progressed, we felt it trickling and 
throwing a fine spray upon us from above. We hurried 
through and walked over a rustic bridge. Then we saw 
water trickling down the grotto's rocky sides, which 
trailed with vines and flowers. The water ran into the 
brook beneath, where sported many kinds of fish. The 
hrook was surrounded by a wall of fossil-like rock from the 
southern part of the State. 

The fishery interests of Illinois were exhibited in a thor- 
ough and masterly manner by Ga.pt. Bartlett, of Quincy. 
This gentleman now has charge of this State's fishery in- 
terests. He said that when an overflow occurs companies 



330 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

of men are sent out to rescue all fish which have been 
washed out of the streams by the overflow of larger 
streams. The fish are rescued out of shallow places and 
are gathered into tubs of water and then returned to the 
rivers, thus rescuing and saving, with but little if any 
loss, thousands of fish. 

This State's educational exhibit was especially worthy 
of mention. It commenced with the representation of a 
graded country school, and carried us through the high 
school into university work. A school room was shown 
which should be the typical one used in the country. 

The kindergarten work done by small children was neat 
and seemed more complicated than is usually accom- 
plished by pupils in the first grades. Across the way we 
found the largest natural history exhibit on the grounds. 
Next we passed into the "Kindergarten" where about 
thirty little tots, chattering, like so many magpies, to each 
other and teachers, were seated about low tables. About 
them were little articles they Were making. One little one 
passed fringed green paper about a match-like stick, then 
informed us it was a "twee." "No, Fs changed; its a paint 
bwush." 

In natural, easy ways they learned how to count, tell all 
colors, to express ideas and invent new ones. At a signal 
sounded upon the piano they arose, cleared back chairs 
and tables, formed a circle, and, going through with sim- 
ple gymnastics, they sang "I'll choose one if I can." 

Little Red-dress coquettishly motioned her partner to 
take his place beside her and as they danced around the 
circle with the rest, they both tripped and rolled outside of 
the ring. Quickly Red-dress was on her feet, and then 
seated herself upon him. He accepted his position as being 
part of the performance, not offering a struggle until she 
was ready to resign her seat upon this "buoy," who was in 
imminent danger of being "caught in a squall." Next they 
sang and played a> game called "Hiding a stone ; then find- 
ing it." A little fellow stood in the center of the ring of 
children. One of them had the hidden stone. When 
Claude (the little boy who was searching for the stone) 
drew near the hidden prize the music played upon the 
piano by a young lady grew very loud. That meant he 
was "very warm," but while he was not near the hidden 
article the music was softly played, and then he was "very 
cold." In playing "hunt the thimble" children used to 
say, in the place of music being played, "Now you are 
warm; yes, you are burning," to indicate to the searcher 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 331 

he was near to finding the thimble. Then perhaps it was 
vice versa, "O, you are freezing cold." To some this may 
have seemed like the "day of small things," but never to 
God's little ones. 

Next, we gazed admiringly upon Marshall Field's dis- 
play of woman's fancy work. It is not thought best to im- 
pose upon you a description of what would be better to 
leave to the imagination, for the scribe might distort every 
stitch and color out of place. Yes, it is better to leave the 
description to some one better versed in this art. 

On the upper floor the walls were lined with pictures of 
the public institutions of the State. In another room -the 
blind of the Illinois blind school were doing all kinds of 
work. Sewing by hand or on the machine. Doing bead- 
work, straw-work, knitting or crocheting. 

This department was directed by their much-loved in- 
structor, Prof. Hall. They called him their kind, good 
friend. He was the first inventor of the stereotype for the 
blind. After working upon it for some years he perfected 
it. It was operated upon in this department by a young 
man who was blind. As we visited with him we noticed 
that the characters which he made with this machine 
seemed much like shorthand. He transferred these char- 
acters to the machine, which made upon paper raised let- 
ters. He handed to us one of these slips of paper, from 
which we read: 

"And I will bring the blind by a way they know not; in 
paths they know not will I lead them. I will make dark- 
ness light before them, and crooked places straight. These 
will I do, and I will not forsake them." — Isaiah, xlii., 16. 

They gave compositions on the piano from many of the 
old masters with full orchestra accompaniment. Many of 
us know of some person who has, unfortunately, become 
blind. It is no matter from what reason they are afflicted ; 
duty and love for humanity thus afflicted, or perhaps in 
some other way which causes them to be helpless, pre- 
sents to us the privilege of doing kindnesses in various 
ways. But what can be done by the blind to pass away 
many weary hours? Perhaps they have become so in old 
age, when it is too late to learn to read by raised letters. 
Here is one of the 'grand opportunities to those who feel 
"life is not worth the living," and for those who say "I am 
of no use in this world." Perhaps a few doors from us is 
some lonely soul, hungering to be read to. Let us not fear 
to offer poor services, for they are the very best when given 
"in His name." 



332 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 



MINNESOTA. 

This State is a beautiful, fertile country of prairie, 
woodlands and lakes. It was proved in all departments 
of the Fair that there every kind of agricultural industry 
is pursued on a large scale. 

The lakes of the State are estimated to number 7,000, 
Red Lake being the largest body of water in the Union 
except Lake Michigan. There are, altogether, nearly 3,000 
miles of navigable water in Minnesota. During the gla- 
cial period, rock or earth basins were scooped out where 
water collected in these different geologic formations. 
When the great ice sheet melted they became lakes. Most 
of them are exceedingly picturesque, with cliffs running 
high on their banks. The waters are clear and cool, and 
abound in fish. Many summer resorts are situated on 
their shores. 

Not fifty years ago the resources of the State lay un- 
touched, except here and there a home had been made by 
a, stray settler, or by a fur trader who drove precarious 
bargains with hostile Indians, but this wilderness, by 
efforts of men who fixed themselves in one locality, yield- 
ing their ambitions to its success, soon became a place of 
great cities. 

Americans are notoriously restless, fond of change and 
moving about, yet for their country's good would remain 
in one spot all their lives, rather than diminish, by word 
or action, an iota of honorable prosperity due either the 
State or Union. 

For many years the Jesuit fathers, whose chapels and 
graves marked the shores of Minnesota's lakes and rivers 
of that mighty wilderness, gave their lives freely to the 
vision of a general conversion of the Indians to the Chris- 
tian faith. Both Roman Catholic and Protestant mis- 
sionaries were the pioneers of its civilization and settle- 
ment, where were built, in many places, chapels and 
missions. 

In 1840 a little chapel was built upon the bank of Red 
Lake and dedicated to St. Paul. 

On entering the alcoved porch of the Minnesota State 
Building, there was seen, mounted upon a beautifully 
sculptured pedestal, a statue of Hiawatha carrying Min- 
nehaha. This poetic and historic legend in marbled art 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 33& 

was sculptured by Tjeldia, a Norwegian resident of Min- 
nesota. The statue was purchased and shipped to the 
Fair through contributions given by the school children 
of the State. The sculptor conceived this noble design 
and carved it out in masterly art, and we felt that we 
knew just the place in the poem to which it applied. 

"Over wide and rushing rivers 
In his arms he bore the maiden; 
Light he thought her as a feather, 
As the plume upon his headgear; 
Cleared the tangled pathway for her, 
Bent aside the swaying branches." 

According to the early history of the State of Minne- 
sota, it is not possible to believe that there was ever more 
than one true example of Hiawatha, for the history of the 
cruelties practiced by Minnesota Indians upon whites 
while the State was new is, we think, the most revolting 
we have ever read of in American history, but they were 
dangerous and bad enough in any portion of America 
when it was a howling wilderness and infested with wild 
animals. The animals were counted friends compared 
to savages. Early settlers never retired feeling quite 
secure of waking on earth. Too often they were awak- 
ened from slumber by hideous yells, and flashing toma- 
hawks; and a few hours later all that remained to tell 
the story were a few bones lying in the ashes of their 
cabin. We would that the youth of this prosperous age 
would bring themselves to a realization of what they owe 
to their forefathers. With their wives, and, sometimes, 
children, all aiding them as much as possible, they 
hewed logs, cut down trees and helped to build 
cabins in the midst of a trackless wilderness, miles and 
miles away from any other human beings. They placed 
their lives at the mercy of savages, to give their children, 
and their children after them, a free country. 

But now what a change! Great cities, with grand 
buildings, flourishing hamlets, splendid roads, and 
churches innumerable, where is taught the love of the 
Master, and the grandest music is heard. All these have 
taken the place of the lonely, dangerous pioneer life. Now 
has dawned prosperity, instead of their sufferings, both 
mental and physical. Now they aspire for high intel- 
lectual attainments, which at that time was impossible to 



334 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

obtain. Then, as a matter of course, though in some 
cases it was not so, they used bad grammar and mispro- 
nounced their words. Their only thought was work, and 
work they had to, and oh, so often, without proper sus- 
tenance. 

This reminds us of an instance, told by an old pioneer, 
which is of small account compared to what some pioneers 
might tell. One of them stated in a jocular way that he 
wished to brag over the rest of the settlers, for besides 
having potatoes to eat, they had had salt pork in their 
house for weeks. 

"You don't mean to say you've eaten salt pork for 
weeks. How extravagant!" 

"We have a way of making it go farther than the rest 
of you have, and it satisfies us, we think, just as well." 

"How can that be?" 

"We have a piece attached to a cord which hangs over 
the table, and every meal we point at it." 

Can this young generation ever look upon the horny- 
handed, leathery-skinned, wrinkled-faced, perhaps dow- 
dily-dressed, old farmer and wife, and not remember the 
hardships they have endured? Were it not for these very 
people who have cherished in their sensitive personality 
an inner secret longing for all the refinements and good 
things of life, it is a certain fact, that we of Ihis genera- 
tion would not be in possession of any of these privileges 
or attainments, and the men and boys of to-day would all 
be obliged to clear away forests, while the women and 
girls would be spinning, weaving and knitting, and be 
very glad to have the old colporteur drop in to make a 
prayer and sing a hymn, as he journeyed by. to distribute 
his tracts. 

This was some of the entertainment our forefathers 
had, and it was years before they could have a paring bee 
and an apple cut, for they had to grow the trees first. 

But when they began having apple bees, oh what fun it 
was to see who could peel apples the fastest, cut and 
quarter the most and quickest, make the longest strings 
and be first in throwing them over a rafter to dry; and 
when Si Jones arrived from Puddin town their hilarity 
knew no bounds. Their nimble fingers flew to pare, 
quarter, core and string their last apple. And with the 
rafters and sides of walls festooned with yards of stringed 
apples put to dry, which on the next day and for weeks 
after would be black with flies, thev then cleared the 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 335 

small room of all they could move out of it. Si had 
"chuned" up his fiddle, and as he sawed the bow across it 
to the air, he sang it, too, and it was 

"Sally come up, Sally come down, 
Sally come twist yer heel aroun\" 

Then breaking into "Old rosin the bow," he called 
"Choose partners and everybody dance. Swing yer part- 
ners. Docey fallinette. Homeliest man and purtiest 
gal in the center. All circle round 'em." 

This was the sort of entertainment which many in that 
day were pleased to enjoy, as there was nothing better to 
take the place of it, unless it was a prayer meeting, which 
before it was finished was (figuratively speaking) blue 
with brimstone for the sinners who danced. Well, those 
apple cuts and the hoe downs which took place after 
placed some spice in their monotonous lives. All of this 
time we have been visiting, we have not moved an inch 
from the statue of Hiawatha and Minnehaha. No doubt 
it has "made us tired," so on passing through Minnesota's 
Hall we turn to the right and sit awhile in a splendid 
parlor, where we see a very elegantly carved pipe stone 
fireplace and mantel. It came from one of the quarries 
in Pipestone County. There were various articles of 
utility and beauty, made out of this material of pinkish 
red. It used to be used by the Indians for making pipes 
end cooking utensils. When pipe stone is first quarried 
it is soft and easy to mold or cut, but it hardens very fast 
upon being exposed to the air. It is of a peculiarly beau- 
tiful tint, and is smooth like slate stone. 

We next looked upon a large exhibit of Indian relics, 
including garments entirely covered in patterns of bead- 
work, the most artistic of its kind ever made. There were 
seen cruel war clubs and many other things historic of 
their barbarism. On finding a gun which a Sioux war- 
rior used in the attack on New Ulm, childhood remem- 
brances returned, and once more we felt the thrill of 
horror which passed over the people of the Union in that 
memorable month of August, 1862, when the men of Min- 
nesota were away defending the Union, and the Sioux out- 
break occurred, extending to every village and hamlet of 
this State. The savages committed upon women and 
children the most atrocious cruelties and outrages ever 
chronicled in history. By their hands and feet they were 



386 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

nailed to doors, then burned alive. This massacre, with 
the destroying of property, rendered 30,000 people home- 
less. Seven hundred were murdered, and 200, mostly 
women, taken into captivity. The loss of property to the 
State, whose resources already were severely strained by 
her needs, and by contributions to the nation's necessi- 
ties, is placed at $3,000,000. 

Within two months after President Lincoln's first call 
for troops, the First Minnesota Regiment, more than 1,000 
strong, w r as mustered into service. By the middle of 1862, 
ten large regiments had been sent to the front, Minnesota 
contributing in all 25,052, which was about one-seventh 
of its population at that time. 

On coming to the second landing of the grand staircase 
in Minnesota, w r e stopped and admired a group of deer 
heads, to which were attached electric light fixtures. 
They were a unique idea, which came from someone's fer- 
tile brain. They were attractive chandeliers. It was 
either in "Nebraska" or Minnesota we saw a painting of 
birds which were by artist Ella Hostetter. We liked the 
painting, and we were carried in retrospection back to 
childhood days. Again we were listening to song birds 
just as we once heard them when we used to bend down 
saplings in Benton's woods and race for dear life upon 
our mimic horses. The artist's name is a very familiar 
one to us, and we are reminded to ask you, Ella, if the 
sweet singer, John Hostetter, who so long ago taught the 
villagers in the little town of Linden to sing Do Re Mi, is 
not your brother. If he yet lives, please ask him w T here 
little Johnny Field is. The people of L. have not for- 
gotten them. When in singing school Johnny Field 
played the organ and John Hostetter beat the time and 
sang, oh so sweetly, with Mary, Fanny and scores of oth- 
ers, the song entitled, "It's an Age of Progress." 

Memory lingers to gaze upon faces which were once 
the windows of the human soul. We note each eye and 
facial expression until they seem ready to enter into and 
take part in our daily routine of life. Supremely happy 
are those residents of a small town who are content to 
make of it their little world. It would be well for 
humanity if in this age simple pleasures pleased as they 
once did, but fancies of childhood must be no longer 
dwelt upon. We are visiting as we pass through the Min- 
nesota Building, just like we used to when there. The 
spell remains with us which the officials cast over us on 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR 337 

making our first call upon them, and in fancy we stand 
in the large exhibit room, which led the visitor out upon a 
pleasant porch. Here in our laps we held portfolios 
which contained pictures of their public buildings, busi- 
ness blocks and private residences. These fine specimens 
of photography depicting their architectural beauty, were 
duplicated in large pictures w^hich hung upon the walls 
of the room. Minnesota received the well deserved praise 
of having shown the best work in her photography of 
buildings and many other pictures. We never tired of 
looking at the picture of the mare "Polly." She is the 
fastest four-mile horse in the world, and can draw 300 
pounds that distance, from standing start to finish, in 
10:05. She is owned and was bred by Jay Ladue, of 
Luverne. Hanging in a frame by her were four gold 
medals which were given to her by the Czar of Russia. 



338 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 



MASSACHUSETTS. 

This building was modeled after the old "Hancock 
house,' 7 which for many years was a familiar landmark 
on Beacon street, Boston. The simple, but heroic lives of 
the Pilgrim Fathers, which have been glorified in poetry, 
painting, fiction, and oratory, came trooping before us 
as we looked upon the pictured faces of the great men 
and women of the past, and upon those of the present of 
the great Bay State, then upon the picture of the most 
famous boulder in the world, "Plymouth Kock," as endur- 
ing as the influences of the Pilgrim forefathers them- 
selves. 

In few portions of the Union has a study of ancestry 
been more diligently carried on than in Massachusetts. 
This was proved in the number of societies represented in 
their literature. Their inheritance of Norse blood 
explained to us their love of the water and ships, while 
from their ancestors, the old Saxons, they derived their 
fighting qualities. 

Miles Standish and his mail clad men returned the rat- 
tlesnake skin stuffed with bullets and powder, and began 
war just as soon, possibly sooner, than the Indians wanted 
it. Portraits of John Alden, Anne Hutchinson, Cotton 
Mather, brought up many trains of thought. How Miles 
Standish might have made a better selection than in send- 
ing John Alden to manage his love affairs. Of the cruel, 
disgraceful martyrdom suffered by Anne Hutchinson, all 
through the vile superstition of the people of that day. 
A long line of other pictures reminded us of their fame 
in theology, literature, enterprise and social life. 

The intellectual foundation, upon which the reputation 
of this State rests, comes from the fact that a large 
majority of the one hundred Puritan clergymen, of the 
Church of England, who came to Massachusetts, were 
university-bred men, and this is an inheritance handed 
down to a State which boasts of more great men of the 
past and present than any other State. 

In 1604 the Pilgrim Church was born, and as time 
passed on, some of the best blood of England joined them. 
In the onward march of civilization, new lives were added, 
many of them writers of greatest ability. Of historians, 
the names of nine, out of many, occur to us. Among them 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 339 

were Bancroft and Sparks. These two will suffice, 
with no further mention of more. In philosophy, Jon- 
athan Edwards and Ralph Waldo Emerson; poets, 
Bryant, Lowell, Longfellow, Holmes; in oratory, Phillips 
Brooks and others; in fiction, Hawthorne, Mrs. Stowe, 
Holland, and hosts of others, which adorned the honor 
roll of Massachusetts. 

In the old "Cradle of Liberty/' Faneuil Hall, the gray 
and the blue have dined in fraternal union, and on Bunker 
Hill, as one band, they have joined in fresh consecration 
of loyalty to our common country. 

Under the golden dome of the State House on Beacon 
Hill hangs the true symbol of the wealth of the Bay State, 
a golden cod. As a matter of course, the cod has always 
been a standard diet, upon which the first order of brains 
in this State have long been nourished. It is no wonder 
fish is declared brain food, when we remember the brainy 
people of the past and present of this State. Physicians 
say that baked fish and potatoes are an ideal food, and 
these, added to the rest of palatable things, coming from 
the New England kitchen, like brown bread, baked beans, 
great, fat doughnuts, and pumpkin pies were made as few 
Iiave the opportunity to test nowadays. In Massachusetts 
pumpkins are cooked in the skin, and cooked down in the 
Settle, dry and brown as a berry, some molasses stirred 
in, then run through the colander. 

We have all heard of pumpkin molasses. Have you 
ever tasted it? It is, we are told, good. Housewives, 
when you take the peel of the pumpkin away, not allow- 
ing it to cook with the other part of it, remember you have 
taken just so much molasses out of your pie. It was such 
living as this just mentioned upon which thrived the 
builders of the warships "Constitution" and "Old Iron- 
sides," both were built in Massachusetts Bay. It is not 
necessary to state of this noted State, as we have of other 
States, that this is a bare outline and touches but a small 
part and parcel of it; but unitedly we all join in behalf 
of the "Old Colony State," in their ancestral prayer, "God 
save the Commonwealth of Massachusetts." 

As we stepped into the spacious hall of the Massachu- 
setts house, we saw in the corner of the stairway a tall 
clock, which was made by Nat. Milliken in 1757. It indi- 
cated a quarter of two, and keeps as good time as ever. 
Another clock, which was more interesting, was made in 
the eighteenth century and came from England. 



340 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

This building was entirely furnished in articles of 
antiquity. In a straight-backed, carved chair, fancy saw 
Benjamin Franklin reading the "Boston Weekly News- 
boy," which was printed in his time, where was advertised 
the Bristol church lottery, which read like this : 

"This ticket shall entitle the bearer to receive the prize 
that may be drawn against his number, if demanded in 
six months. By order of the general assembly." 

It seemed natural and right that he should sit in his 
own chair, and on picking up the "Anderson Almanac," 
printed in the year 1600, he read this inscription heading 
the title page: 

"Time, like a stream that hastens from the shore, 
Flies to an ocean where 'tis known no more." 

Lying in glass cases was a vast amount of money issues,, 
including the "Sword in hand" and "Pine tree shilling." 
Next we looked upon what the Indians once used in play- 
ing lacrosse. The superstition of these children of nature 
in an early day was, that when sickness came upon the 
country, they must play this game to restore its people to 
health. They were so fond of the game that they made it 
an excuse to entertain distinguished guests of the whites 
who lived in forts. They often asked to play it in the pres- 
ence of the whites in order to gain access and massacre 
them. This they loved to do better than to play lacrosse, 
which game they would play, going without eating, hours 
upon hours, so much they enjoyed it. 

We read out of an old book in the library that, "Poca- 
hontas taught the Indian boys to be rude by turning hand 
springs over and over them." "This immodest girl did do 
these things in a likewise manner as did these boys." 

The pitch pipe which used to give the key to the choir 
in olden times, was made of iron, and in shape resembled 
a willow whistle. Only a slide was worked the length of 
it over the openings which pitched the different tones for 
the choir to sing about "Our God of Love," in a form of 
language which to-day seems to us a libel upon His good- 
ness. A line or so of a hymn occurs to us, running some- 
thing like this: 

"From His shining throne, where all is love, 

He looks down, with majestic hate, 

Upon vile sinners writhing there, 

While His ear was closed to their dying prayer." 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 341 

There was shown a shovel on which Franklin used to 
pass coals to his friends to light their pipes; upon the 
shovel lay a long, slender pair of tongs which they once 
used to pick up the coals. A tinder box, flint and steel 
were objects of much curiosity. Carefully those old 
patriots watched the smouldering log lest it went out, 
and the flint had to be used. In those days a family was 
poor if they did not own this necessary article. Their 
first lights were tallow dips. When candles came they 
w r ere sparingly used, being snuffed out earlier than eight, 
when curfew used to ring the time for all to retire. Well, 
don't you busy people, living where it is noisy at night, 
when you are tired out, wish, too, that there was a curfew 
to ring at eight ? Then would come the solemn silence of 
the night, and you'd wake in the morning feeling rested 
and bright. 

A curious relic was a large, round table, which, by lift- 
ing the top straight back, was converted into a chair. 
This was a witch house table from Roger Williams' house 
of 1634. A sampler of that period, worked by Ruth Gray, 
aged eleven, showed the reverence and deep respect com- 
manded of children, who did not question the fact that 
they were expected to obey and show proper respect to 
their parents and all older persons. One mark of respect 
was "making their courtesies," which was a sudden bend- 
ing of the knees, accompanied by a nod. Another was 
standing at the table to eat. Another precept, which was 
most forcibly carried out, was "little folks should be seen 
and not heard." Another was "Never speak unless 
spoken to," meaning they were not to take charge of the 
conversation, by giving their parents good advice, or in 
any manner try to teach them the way in which they 
should go, as is too often the case with the young Ameri- 
cans of to-day. We fear the trouble is that we have not 
enough old-fashioned fathers and mothers, and if we 
have, it is their opinion there is too much to battle against. 
Truly these remarks apply, in a general way, to a large 
class in the present. 

This is what little Ruth worked upon the sampler: 

"Next unto God, dear parents, I address myself in hum- 
ble thankfulness for all your care on me bestowed." 

A dutiful motto, which children, whether they felt like 
acknowledging it or not, were compelled to follow out 
precepts like this in those days. Perhaps they secretly 
were very rebellious, and that is why the on-coming race 



342 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

is so hard to manage. It may be this inheritance has been 
bestowed upon their children, and has caused parents to 
inherit tendencies of the very pity their ancestors felt for 
themselves, in submitting to so much humiliation. 

Next we passed into a long parlor and looked upon the 
portraits of Adams and Hancock. Then we went down 
into the blue tiled kitchen and seated ourselves on an old- 
fashioned settee. Water buckets of leather were hung 
about on the walls. On a shelf, high above the fireplace, 
rested blue china over a century old. We swung a huge 
iron kettle over the blaze, placed in it ingredients for a 
savory soup, then while it was cooking talked over the 
history of the first battle of Concord, when a regular and 
forcible resistance was made by armed Americans shed- 
ding the first British blood. 

We made another little excursion to the second floor, 
and looked upon a christening robe which had been worn 
by a babe over two hundred years ago, after which we 
inspected an old wedding veil of white material, which 
was worked by the niece of John Quincy Adams, while 
living in the White House. Next a pair of tall candle- 
sticks which came over in the ship that followed the 
"Mayflower;" a skein winder which had been used by the 
sister of Paul Revere. A curious but valuable relic was 
a cradle that was made for the Adams family by the vil- 
lage undertaker, which had been used for five generations 
in the Adams family, including that of President Adams. 
There was an old-fashioned portrayal, in oil, of the Boston 
massacre, which was painted by Paul Revere. Next a 
silk bedquilt made of pieces of Lady Washington's 
dresses. We inspected an ancient bureau of John 
Drew's, who brought it with him to Plymouth when he 
joined the colonists in 1660. His grandfather was 
knighted by Queen Elizabeth in 1589. 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 343 



PENNSYLVANIA. 

The Keystone State ranked with New York and other 
large States in every department of the Exposition. 

Her headquarters was a reproduction of "Independence 
Hall/ 7 its roomy interior being fitted up into elegant recep- 
tion rooms for ladies and gentlemen. This building con- 
tained a profusion of historic relics. 

The famous Liberty Bell hung within a stout frame, in 
the center of the hall. It was surrounded by plants and 
ferns, and two policemen guarded it constantly. One day 
a brown-eyed little woman timidly laid her hand rever- 
ently upon this symbol of our liberty. The policemen 
looked at her in a way not to be misunderstood, but pres- 
ently their eyes moistened as she repeated the verse which 
was underneath a group in the parlor, which was by 
Artist Sarah Dodson, of Brighton, Eng., 

"The day of toil is done, 

The future mothers of the race 

Listen to tales of harder struggles past, 

While in the air, peace, like a guardian angel, 

Hovers o'er the land." 

The tale of this painting told of times in the early part 
of this century. It was a representation of when our 
ancestors were of the robust type; this explains to us the 
most apparent stoutness of the figures. The second paint- 
ing was a group of weary girls sitting about their aged 
grandmother, and listening in the gathering twilight to 
stories of battles which had occurred in her youth. Tran- 
quillity and repose, after a day of toil, breathed through 
the heavy limbs and languid attitudes of their resting 
figures. The spirit of peace floated against the evening 
tones of sky and distance, while resting over it all was an 
azure, rosy haziness. 

"Revery," by Jean Rongier, Philadelphia, represented 
a young girl sauntering down a hillside path. Her parted 
lips murmured a verse from the open book she was read- 
ing; her inspired face reflected the poetic sentiment which 
was coloring her dreams of the future, and this is what 
she repeated: 



344 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

"Give, give, oh, woman, all thy crowning grace, 

Thy soul poetic, thy entrancing face. 

Thy land hath place for all of these and more." 

In the next painting she was a wife and a young mother 
standing in her ivy -leaved cottage door, looking with a 
serious, sweet expression down on her sleeping babe, lying- 
in its' wicker cradle. The picture was redolent with 
domestic happiness. The pleasures of the intellect and 
the poetic fancies of the maiden had given way to the 
serious, sweet duties of home life, and now she repeated: 

"Yet save for home, that better than all art, 
The wealth of treasure from thy woman's heart, 
To bloom like flowers round thy door." 

"Spring," by artist Margaret Lesly Bush Brown, New- 
burg, N. Y., was represented by five maidens and Cupid. 
They were laughing, swaying and swinging in festive 
circles under a tree weighted with its mass of fruit blos- 
soms. The awakened life blood in tree and vein was 
made to respond to the call of spring, with buoyant force 
by this artist. From their lips came the song: 

"Let us rejoice, while bud and blossom show 
How through the year the springs of life now flow, 
Let us rejoice, let songs be on eaclutongue, 
Young as the year our land, our hearts are young." 

Artist Miss Clements, of Vine street, Philadelphia, next 
with her brush told of "Harvest." This picture glowed 
in the noon heat of sunshine, the atmosphere quivered 
with it, over yellowing grass, lying in shadowy blues of 
distance. This was symbolic of the harvest we enjoy 
from the maturing seeds of thought, and of action which 
was sowed broadcast in the spring season of our nation's 
history. The following illustrates the rest of the scene: 

"Low swing the orchard boughs with golden fruit o'er 

laden; 
Maidens hasten with thrift eager to gather the store, 
In the new land, the fathers, by wisdom and foresight 

guided, 
Planted these trees, whose treasures fall to the children's 

hand." 

Over the mantel of the fireplace in this room was a 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 345 

graceful statue of a young girl, in the dawn of woman- 
hood, clad in a lightly flowing robe, the head slightly up- 
lifted, was crowned with a wreath of laurel, faintly tinged 
with gold. Her right hand was raised as if in benedic- 
tion, while her left clasped a bunch of laurel symbolic of 
fame. This was by artist Chas. Grafly, Philadelphia, and 
stood in a niche, highly polished, of bird's-eye maple. 
Below it was a decorative panel in relief work upon which 
was carved, "Art sanctifies the sorrows of the world," 

This rich mantel was designed and carved by Miss 
Slater, of Philadelphia. The statuary was entitled, 
"Genius of Art." 

In another room was a stained glass window in har- 
monious colors, representing spring, and designed by Mrs. 
Sweeny, of Chestnut street, Philadelphia. Her exhibits 
were from the most modern resources of art; in the way 
of decorations and arrangement of drapery, besides show- 
ing general originality and artistic taste. In one of the 
parlors was a large exhibit of decorated china. It was 
painted by members of the Philadelphia Ceramic Club. 
This exhibit attracted much attention, and was greatly 
admired. 

Over the whole building were found numerous fine 
paintings, and it seemed that Pennsylvania in art de- 
served the "golden apple," for her exhibit was very large 
and satisfactory. 

The tall, wide chair, seated with leather, in which 
Thomas Jefferson sat and wrote the Declaration of Inde- 
pendence, was strong and good as ever. The ink bottle 
which he once used, and the feather quill, too, rested upon 
an ancient table, upon which the Declaration of Independ- 
ence was signed. His sword lay on a sofa which had once 
belonged to Washington. 

In Pennsylvania's fine booth in the Agricultural Build- 
ing was the old Liberty Bell, produced from cereals of 
this State. In her mammoth exhibit in "Mines and Min- 
ing," one of her trophies was a shaft of coal sixty -two feet 
high and ten feet square. 



346 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 



MICHIGAN. 

Before the opening of the eighteenth century the Great 
Lakes, leading through this State, had been explored. 
Early as 1641, Jesuit fathers established a mission on the 
Sault Ste. Marie for the Chippewas, but it was early aban- 
doned. In the spring of 1668, Father Marquette renewed 
the mission, and founded the first permanent settlement in 
Michigan. He was then about thirty-one years of age and 
an enthusiastic missionary. In the next year Father Dab- 
Ion took charge of the mission and Father Marquette went 
into a new field of labor west of Lake Superior, where he 
gathered all the Huron®, who had fled from their new ene- 
mies, about him at the straits of Michilimackinac. 

"This," he said, "might properly be called the home of 
the fishes." And this attraction drew savages from every 
direction from the persecution of the Iroquois, thus favor- 
ing him in opportunities to instruct them as they came and 
went over the broad waters of the great lakes. This good 
man sacrificed life and health in his religious fervor to con- 
vert the many different tribes. In vain he tried to live un- 
til he reached the first mission he had founded, but Provi- 
dence ordered otherwise. He landed for a br^ef rest and 
to worship near the mouth of the river, which since has 
l>een named for him, and within a few hours, almost with- 
out warning, he passed into rest and was buried there by 
his sorrowing companions. 

Two years later a party of his Indian converts removed 
his body to a place of repose, which he would have selected 
himself, beneath the chapel which overlooked the Straits 
of Michilimackinac. From the time of founding his mis- 
sions they became a resort for fur traders. 

The exact time that Mackinaw became a military post 
is unknown. La Salle, in the "Griffin," the first vessel to 
plough the waters above the Niagara, passed it in 1679, 
and in 1688, Baron La Houtan visited and described it. 
La Mothe Cadillac, who was in command of the post in 
1695, said: "This village is one of the largest of all Can- 
ada." Of soldiers there were about two hundred; of sav- 
ages, about seven thousand. 

Preceding the settlement of Detroit, a fort was, in 1679, 
built by La Salle near St. Joseph, on Lake Michigan, and 
by others in other places, but the founding of Detroit, in 




THE MICHIGAN BUILDING. 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 347 

1701, soon rendered any other post of little or no import- 
ance. The missionaries, LaMothe and Galinee, so it is 
stated, were the first white men who, in birch bark canoes, 
coasted along its shores, their object being to land in De- 
troit, which they did at the foot of Griswold street, where 
were situated the villages of the Ottawas and Hurons, who 
rushed to the shore's edge to welcome them. Soon they 
were prospecting through the green forests, and nature un- 
folded her rare loveliness, like that of a coy, beautiful 
maiden, to the admiring eye. 

Sporting about in limpid waters were thousands of fish. 
Tender-eyed gazelles and deer gazed in wonder, and 
frightened, bounded away. Hundreds of birds sang or 
tw ittered in leafy branches, and flowers scattered incense 
over the grand, solemn silence which seemed like a hushed 
benediction. 

In 1701, Cadillac secured from the king of France, 
through the influence of Count Pontchartrain, a tract of 
land fifteen acres square which should be wherever on the 
Detroit river the fort was established. Fifty soldiers, fifty 
Canadian traders, and artisans were soon living at the foot 
of what is now Griswold street. This occurred on July 24. 
Immediately a stockade was built and named in honor of 
the minister "from France,"" Fort Pontchartrain. Log 
houses, thatched with grass, were erected for their shelter 
and homes, and thus opened the natal day of the "Citv of 
the Straits," and following in proud array came an army 
of noble men and women, whom history cannot too highly 
emulate. If space allowed hundreds could be mentioned 
where but few can be. 

General Lewis Cass is loved and remembered for his 
sterling character. He was thoroughly alive to the in- 
terests of the people of Michigan in her early history, with 
her malaria swamps and impenetrable, unknown wilder- 
nesses. It was a problem which received from him great 
consideration. In this early day United States commis- 
sioners visited Michigan one wet spring, making an ex- 
ploration. They reported that the State was one vast 
swamp, with scarcely a tillable acre in it, and that the prin- 
cipal products were frogs, ague, and mosquitoes. A sur- 
veyor from Oakland County reported the soil there as be- 
ing' marshy, springy, and unsafe for man or beast to tread 
on. Thus Were the State's interests retarded for some 
years after her sister States were populated and progress- 
ing, but improvements took on great developments, and 



348 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

soon the news was carried north, south, east and west of 
her vast hidden wealth of iron and copper in the Upper 
Peninsula, of her great salt wells, her mighty forests of 
oaks, hickories, walnuts, maples, pine, etc., towering up in 
vast forests of majestic grandeur. Those of southern 
Michigan royally decked with nature's adornments, sus- 
tained the elk, deer, and the bear which tracked the honey 
bees to their wealth of sweets. 

On the water courses the beavers built dams, and buffa- 
loes fed on the prairies. It was at this period when the 
copper ornaments worn by the squaw were the only con- 
firmation of the Upper Peninsula's wealth. Another of 
Michigan's grand men was Governor Crapo, of Flint. He 
was one of the most successful of business men, and when 
Id the United States senate ranked as a leader, being chair- 
man of the committee on banks and corporations, and a 
member of the committee on bounties to soldiers. He 
twice filled the office of governor, giving hearty support to 
President Lincoln in crushing the rebellion, though not 
filling the chief executive's office during that time. In all 
ways he was a conscientious and valuable public servant. 

Another honored and loved citizen is ex-Gov. Josiah 
Begole, of Flint, who since he was twenty-one years old 
has resided in Michigan, and no one has ever been more 
philanthropic and generous in promoting the interests 
of his State. He has always been identified with leading 
movements, but now is too feeble to be engaged in public 
work. He was a liberal, public -spirited and active mem- 
ber of the committee which drafted the bill for the estab- 
lishment and building of the new capitol at Lansing, cost- 
ing one and a half million dollars. At that time he was 
State Senator. Afterward he became a member of Con- 
gress. 

Another honored citizen was Hon. Moses Wisner, a 
judge of supreme ability, so patriotic as to command the 
utmost respect and obedience from the men under his 
command. He was their idol and they eagerly listened 
to every word he chained together, it making grand 
oratory. One day this loyal man was brought home and 
laid in a soldier's grave. 

War Gov. Blair, of Jackson, will always be remem- 
bered, especially for his eloquent speech, made in a con- 
vention on President Lincoln's call for men to help save 
the Union. In one sentence he said much: "I marshal 
in the columns going to battle for Abraham Lincoln." 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 349 

Zachariah Chandler was a firm, unyielding man of pur- 
pose, a tender, kind friend, an orator of rare ability, he 
served his State and country's interest for more than 
twenty years. He died suddenly, in Chicago, after mak- 
ing one of his famous speeches. 

Dear, departed Gov. Winans. His memory will ever 
be tenderly treasured in the heart's best affections by all 
who knew him. Commencing in his early manhood to 
accumulate a fortune in California, he soon returned to 
Hamburg, Mich., to spend the busy remainder of his days. 
Not seeking or expecting political favor, he was chosen 
to many public positions, which he filled conscientiously 
and with honor to himself and State, his last office being 
that of Governor. He was possessed of extraordinary 
qualities of heart and brain, and was always reaching out 
to succor the helpless, or lift up some deserving one. 
Nothing could be said too good of him, and there is noth- 
ing but words of praise for an executive who possessed 
such noble qualities. 

Michigan's own great inventor, Thomas Edison, was 
born in Port Huron. His reticence is peculiar only to 
sound thinkers. Just after his marriage he disappeared 
for twenty-four hours, and on being questioned regarding 
it, confessed he forgot himself in his laboratory. When 
a boy, he strung his first telephone, made of twine, across 
the street to his uncle's house, who believed in honoring 
the boy's scheme. The receiving tubes were ordinary tin 
pepper boxes. This was a small beginning, and we have 
not yet seen the end of his greatness. 

Will Carleton, the Hillsdale poet, whose works are in 
nearly every household, on writing his first poem sent it 
to his sister. Afterwards he said, "You must have 
thought me a precious young goose, but it was the encour- 
agement of my sweet sister that caused me to try and 
write rhymes." To-day he is a recognized literary light, 
of great ability. Hundreds of others come trooping be- 
fore us. If we could spare the time with them, but it is 
not possible, so they rush by and are lost in the crowd. 

Memories of noble deeds, and lives of many women 
troop before us. Mary Kice, now Mrs. Dr. Fairbank, of 
Flint, after whom is named Kiceonian Hall, of Ypsilanti, 
where she spent her best years in polishing and feeding 
the intellects of young men and women who are, in the 
work of the world, a credit to her labor. Her work was 
done in philanthropic love, and to her memory they will 



350 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

ever pay grateful, loving tribute. She served with fine 
ability as president, and with Mrs. Flint P. Smith, as sec- 
retary for Genesee County, for the World's Fair. These 
ladies secured a contribution from the ladies of Genesee 
County which sent to the Michigan Building, besides 
other valuable work, a fine painting by Artist Heinrich, 
of Detroit. 

Mr. and Mrs. John Bagley, of Detroit, deserve a loving 
tribute. While he lived, their lives were ordered on the 
same lines, in behalf of all which would uplift the unfor- 
tunate. His upright record of purity and honor shines 
brightly on earth's roll of respect. He filled the office of 
Governor, and many other offices. After his death, her 
loving interest in behalf of humanity, which has always 
covered a broad field, has been for many years specially 
centered in behalf of the Boys' Reform School at Lansing. 
So liberal and broad minded is she that she believes while 
the boys are in durance vile the opportunity was never bet- 
ter to elevate and crush out evil. Through her influence 
the high iron fence which once surrounded the building 
was removed. She deserves the proud prominence as lady 
manager which she maintained in the World's Fair, and in 
the late National Council of Women at Washington. 

To say Michigan performed her whole duty in aiding to 
suppress the rebellion would not be saying enough. She 
successfully acquired an exalted position among her sis- 
ter States in the Union during the war, and she will ever 
continue to be the recipient of great credit and distinction 
for her help given in suppressing the rebellion. And she 
is further honored in special singleness of thought of each 
old soldier, "brave and true," who gave the best days of 
his life to hardships and danger. Many who bore the brunt 
of war gave up their lives, and language is too feeble to 
express the praise which belongs to them. 

The large oil portrait of General Custer hung on the 
wall of the first landing of the staircase in the Michigan 
Building. His sunny hair was tossed back from his frank 
face, which had upon it the impress of military sternness. 
We have read in the "Detroit Free Press" of a tattered 
piece of the battle flag now owned by Mrs. Riedell, of De- 
troit, which was carried on that awful day in June in the 
Custer massacre by his orderly, who followed the general, 
defending the flag at the cost of his life. 

Our eyes dim with sorrow as we think of the brave gen- 
eral and his men who were murdered by frantic redskins. 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 351 

Meeting the foe until their last ammunition was spent,, 
looking anxiously for Reno, who could not come. This 
starry banner will be preserved in history as figuring in 
one of the most brilliant services ever given hj any com- 
mand. The brave record of General Custer and his men 
will ever be cherished in the annals of our history, and rev- 
erently we will speak to our children's children of the dar- 
ing deeds of these great men. 

Hon. Thomas W. Palmer, President of the World's Com- 
mission, is more intimately associated with the history of 
Michigan and Detroit, his birthplace, than could be told 
in these few words. At an early age he conducted a lucra- 
tive business in the town of Detroit with the Indians on 
the frontier. In the fall of 1848, he with five others, made 
a tour of Spain afoot, visiting the Alhambra, Granada, and 
other points. In 1889 President Harrison appointed him 
minister plenipotentiary and envoy extraordinary to the 
court of Spain. This time his associations in that land 
were of national dignity and honor. And for the third 
time were cherished recollections and associations revived 
in his distinguished position as presiding officer in the cel- 
ebration of the four hundredth anniversary of the discov- 
ery of America by Christopher Columbus. He has de- 
clined many honors showered upon him, yet, whenever ac- 
cepting an office, if it was by vote, he always received a 
handsome majority. Especially was this the case when 
he was elected to the Michigan State senate, after which 
he served six years as United States senator, and then vol- 
untarily retired from politics. 

He is closely identified with important business inter- 
ests outside of his own State. He and his wife are harmon- 
ious in their philanthropic views. One day, as we stood 
near the Fifty-seventh street entrance, he was chatting, in 
his pleasant sort of way, when his attention was directed 
to the bleeding knee of a horse which had fallen on the 
stone pavement. He said, "It hurts me as much as though 
it were a human being." He found the owner intended to 
lead it to the stable for rest and treatment, then he said : 
"I feel better now that I know it will be cared for." 

Mrs. Palmer, as well as he, thinks that money was never 
invested in a better cause than in contributing to better 
the conditions and alleviate the pain and misery of ani- 
mals, but other causes in which they are both interested 
are both numerous and unostentatious. They deserve the 
warm friends they win in all who meet them. 



352 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

He Avas a firm believer in the grand success of the Expo- 
sition, and energetically and persistently labored for that 
end. He assisted by every energy the man on whom the 
chief responsibility of the success of the World's Fair 
rested, viz.: Director General Davis, of Chicago. Both 
men are possessed of clearness of judgment, promptness 
and determination, with a great knowledge of men, and 
tact in dealing with them, which enabled them to carry 
out, with the assistance of all officials, the successful and 
grand undertaking. And it is a matter of pride that in 
Michigan, the banner State of the Union, a State which 
sent ninety thousand to battle when the nation was in 
danger, none fearing less to die for their country than the 
valiant sons of the greatest State the sun ever shone on, 
was found one of the chief representatives to the World's 
Fair. 

'Tis not a new or untrue remark that Michigan might 
build about it a high solid wall, and exist alone and un- 
aided upon her resources, because of their variety and di- 
versity. In awards given at the Fair, over seven hundred, 
and about eighty certificates of commendation from Direc- 
tor General Davis were awarded to Michigan. That State 
made a magnificent display in all departments, besides 
showing the only lumber camp upon the grounds, and the 
largest load of logs ever drawn by one span of horses, 
which were owned by the Thomas Nestor estate, of Bar- 
aga. Many camp dinners were given in the log camp, 
where, off pie tins, using steel knives and forks, were 
eaten boiled pork, beans, cabbage, and brown bread, and 
coffee or tea which were served to each guest in a two- 
pint tin basin. The guests were seated in rude chairs 
and dined from a bare table, upon which was never seen 
a table cloth. All this fare would have been considered 
fine by our forefathers. 

In a recess stood a bedstead made of saplings. The 
outside and inside walls were hung with shiny axes, pikes, 
log chains, and rafting boots, the soles were thick, with 
sharp steel points. The log cabin was purchased by Geo. 
W. Childs, of Philadelphia, who removed it about a mile 
from his country residence. Having made an under- 
ground passage to it, he studded the tops and sides with 
crystal to represent Crystal Cave in the Horticultural 
Building. 

Mr. Childs' intentions were to invite guests to take the 
underground journey of one mile, starting from his resi- 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 353 

dence. At the end of their journey they would cometo 
a flight of stairs, which as they climbed they would with 
great pleasure notice they came nearer and yet nearer 
a savory smell, and soon to look upon a farmer's boiled 
dinner, which would be greatly enjoyed because an ap- 
petite had been created for it by the long walk taken. 

Another unique exhibit from Michigan was seen 
throughout the Fair in the Liberal Arts Building. It was 
a mammoth stove, large enough for a cotillion to have 
been danced upon it, and plenty of room for swinging 
partners. It was manufactured by the Michigan Stove 
Works, of Detroit. It was a typical monument of fine 
art and strong work, which was executed by most experi- 
enced workmen, the only kind of workmen the proprietors 
of this mammoth factory will employ. After the Fair 
this magnificent stove was brought back to the factory 
of the Michigan Stove Works and re-erected upon a high 
elevation fronting the mammoth stove plant where it was 
manufactured. It is an object of great admiration to 
the thousands who gaze upon it when driving to and from 
beautiful Belle Isle, and a grand reminder of the great 
Columbian Exposition. 

Michigan's State Building was 140 feet in dimensions, 
and cost f 50,000. It was located southwest of the Art 
Building, at the intersection of two of the finest avenues 
in Jackson Park. It made a comfortable and convenient 
home for Michigan visitors, beside being greatly appre- 
ciated by people from all over the world. It was the only 
building, except the Electrical Building, which was not 
closed at six o'clock. In fact, the doors of Michigan were 
never locked, and visitors stayed evenings until eleven 
and after. 

The doors were opened in the morning at half -past seven 
or eight o'clock. At that time it was always scrupulously 
clean. In no building was there registered more names. 
The ladies' parlor was a tasty and elegantly furnished 
room, and was made handsome and attractive by the fine 
taste displayed by Mrs. Smiley, of Grand Rapids, now of 
Chicago. 

The Grand Rapids Furniture Co. and other large firms 
of that city, supplied everything needful in elegant pro- 
fusion. On its walls were paintings by John Owen and 
Heinrich, of Detroit. Next to this was the writing room 
and library, where were found books written by writers 
of Michigan. The next room was furnished with couches, 



354 SIX MOKTIIS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR 

willow rockers, and all toilet conveniences for rest and 
comfort. 

The Saginaw room was finely finished in made panels 
of wood, contributed by the lumbermen of Saginaw. This 
comfortable room, with its cheery fireplace, on a chilly 
evening was the cosiest in the building. One evening 
some members of the Apollo Club, of Chicago, and some 
musicians of Detroit, sat before its cheery blaze, and 
sang, or told stories of the experiences of the day or even- 
ing. The snatches of conversation are told by the writer 
as they came to her ears. A blue-eyed young man merrily 
remarked : 

"Those fireworks wiggling through the air were sug- 
gestive of the Egyptian dancing of Midway." 

Another said: "I used to live in Alabama, but Michi- 
gan is my home, if I do live in Chicago. To-day I was 
looking at the portraits of President Lincoln and So- 
journer Truth, by Artist Miss Titus, of Battle Creek. The 
picture hangs at the head of stairs on second landing. 
He is showing her the Bible presented him by the freed 
slaves of the South; a woman, I don't know who she was,, 
or where she came from, but she said, 'Funny, isn't it, that 
a white man should marry a black woman.' " 

"Oh, I know a better one than that," said another young 
man. "When I was in the Woman's Building, looking at 
the Kainbow Robe and others shown by Madame Kellogg, 
of Battle Creek, I was informed by several that these 
beautiful garments were made by the great singer, Clara 
Louise Kellogg." 

"O, Will, you said you made a great break this mornings 
what was it?" 

"Why, I walked into some private apartments, situated 
in the northeast corner of the third floor. There was a 
smothered laugh, a sudden slamming of doors, and a voice 
called out: 'You would not care for the exhibits of this 
room.' 

" 'No,' said another voice, 'the exhibits of this room are 
not on exhibition, so run along into the taxidermists' 
room and see what the Ann Arbor Universitv sent to the 
Fair.' " 

"Who were the ladies?" 

"That's where the joke comes in; it was my wife and 
sister making a call on the occupant of the room. They 
tried to scare me, and I tell you they did." 

"I feel perfectly at home in Michigan." 



. SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 355* 

"So do I," came in chorus from all. 

"Very pleasant officials, Andy Wilson is just the one in 
the check room, so obliging. Lunches, wraps, any thing- 
one wishes checked free of charge." 

"Have you a pyrites of iron ring set in Northern Michi- 
gan gold? It shines like diamonds. Her specimens of 
copper are covered with crystals, the exhibit is in the ves- 
tibule in charge of Mr. Deimel." 

The club marched away to look it over, singing, "Michi- 
gan, My Michigan." One of them remarked, "I like Michi- 
gan better than all the other States of the Union." 

Another remarked: "I like Classen and Streeter's ci- 
gars, manufactured in Flint, Mich., which are sold by 
George Y. Warren." They all stopped at Mr. Warren's 
booth and bought that particular brand. After looking 
over Mr. Deimel's splendid collection of minerals from 
Northern Michigan's famous mines, they joined the ranks 
of University students who, late as it was, had started 
for Midway. There were hundreds of them; they placed 
their hands upon each other's shoulder, formed a line, and 
taking the lock step, the students rushed through every 
building on Midway. They held full sway until ready 
to stop their mischievous pranks. No one, not even a 
Columbian Guard, dared interfere. It is doubtful if they 
wished to. Some of the papers next day stated that the 
guards and chair boys, being mostly University students, 
were seen to shed bitter tears of disappointment, because 
they did not dare leave off duty and take part in making 
"Rome howl" with the boys, for the students did paint 
Midway brilliantly red; and if anyone declared them- 
selves offended regarding it, they heard cat calls and the 
expression "Sour grapes," and others, too, from the stu- 
dents and their sympathizers, until the unfortunates 
heartily wished they had kept their remarks to themselves. 
It was remarked by the students that "It was a night, 
Oh, such a night, and that they had the funniest high old 
time you ever heard of." There was more than one man 
claimed to be from Harvard, Cornell or some other college, 
so as to be in the fun. Even staid, dignified gentlemen 
joined them, who were old enough to be fathers to most of 
the students. r they could not at that time and cannot 
now but feel, that the temptation was irresistible to be 
a boy again with the boys. If they all had not have 
enjoyed every legitimate feature of the Fair, they would 
never have realized how it is possible to feel perfectly 



356 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLDS FAIR. 

satisfied. How they on that night did howl, dance and 
rush things on Midway. The moment one struck Midway 
a broad grin spread over their face, and it remained there 
long after leaving the enchanting place. 

The University of Michigan occupied two thousand feet 
in the Liberal Arts Building, and was presided over by 
Prof. Fiske, of Ann Arbor. 

On Ann Arbor day, hundreds of University students 
made the Michigan Building and the Fair grounds ring 
with their college yell of "U. of M., rah, rah, rah, Michigan, 
Michigan, rah, rah, rah." Then the Orchard Lake cadets 
came and held their graduating exercises upon the 
grounds in Music Hall. Next the students from the Agri- 
cultural College, of Lansing; all of these merry, frank, 
happy-go-lucky boys made everyone feel happier for hav- 
ing seen them and heard their college yells and songs. 

We remember with pleasure the merry, manly mem- 
bers of the Detroit Evening Newsboys' Band. How re- 
luctantly we bade them "good-bye," but wished them a 
safe return to their home, the metropolis of the State. 

Next came Michigan Press Day, with its brilliant re- 
ception in the evening, and as we mingled with these tal- 
ented people and listened to a flow of progressive opinions, 
and thought of the wide, sweeping influence of the press, 
of how they get at facts, then how their imagination, prop- 
erly trained, evolves from them, truths of importance and 
value to the public, we thought, if some spirits of the 
Middle Ages could have been present, they would have 
asked, "Where are we at?" 

Golden moments were passing by leading them back to 
their respective homes, but leaving behind them the im- 
pressions of great thought and knowledge, and instinct- 
ively one wished they were useful members and workers 
in this organization of world-wide value and helpfulness 
for humanity. 

In the main corridor, near the grand staircase, hanging 
upon the wall, was a large chart, on which was given the 
amount of property owned, controlled, and the taxes paid 
upon it by the women of the State. It stated their pro- 
fessions or other lines of work. One day a woman read 
it all aloud, then in a louder voice she exclaimed, "And 
women can't vote." 

The Muskegon room was finished and furnished by her 
people, like the rest of the building it was furnished in 
leather covered and wicker furniture. In the center of 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 357 

the room was a long table which was always well sup- 
plied with Michigan's World's Fair writing material. The 
Chase Bros., of Muskegon, supplied this room, the Grand 
Eapids parlor, and the assembly room, each with one of 
their fine pianos, and though these instruments were sub- 
jected to dampness and sudden changes of atmosphere, 
they remained in perfect order throughout the Fair. 

The large pipe organ in the assembly room which was 
manufactured by Farrand & Votey, has a world-wide 
reputation, and though the water power was not strong 
enough for it to be played upon, yet in the disappointment 
expressed by everyone was always heard flattering re- 
marks like this: "Farrand ■& Votey manufacture as fine 
an instrument as was ever made, and we are indeed sorry 
not to have the building filled with its melody." 

The writer questions whether or not she will be accused 
as trying to amuse by telling some funny things of people 
who claimed to be taxpayers from Michigan. In all in- 
stances of unruly conduct it was found that they were 
not from this State, that is, when the instance happened 
in the Michigan Building. But the man who whit- 
tled chunks out of a handsome center table in Missouri, 
and said he belonged to their State, and was a taxpayer, 
and would whittle it all he "derned pleased, too," was 
suspected of being a resident of Michigan. Whoever re- 
moved and carried home the electric fixtures from the 
New York Building was from Missouri. But the family 
of seven, who in Michigan ate chunks of cheese cut with 
"dad's two-blader," and chewed on chicken wings, shied 
cheese rinds and nibbled bones in every direction, Michi- 
gan people believed them to be residents of some other 
State. But "dad" said: "Be gosh, I'm a taxpayer from 
Michigan, pay a hundred dollars a year, and it's my build- 
ing, some on't." 

A sliver was removed from the woodwork about Mr. 
Geo. W T arren's cigar booth and handed him with the state- 
ment, "This is the value of your year's taxes." 

In President Weston's rooms, where were held the of- 
ficial meetings, an elegant table centered a rich rug. On 
the walls were portraits of Michigan's noted people, of the 
past and present. One day some women were found with 
alcohol lamps boiling eggs, making toast and tea on this 
elegantly polished table. Very much offended they were 
on being told that every one dined in the corridor, and 
one of them said, "Dum it, I am a taxpayer from Michigan, 



• 358 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

and a lady, too, and I'm going to have every attention. I 
want a room in this building prepared immediately for 
me. Here's my valise. Carry it and I'll follow yon." 

Wouldn't it have been too funny if all the people of the 
State had demanded rooms. A man and his wife sat 
fronting the lighted gas logs in the Muskegon room. Their 
little child toddled about, hanging to everything possible 
to keep its balance. He remarked, "Wife, we have sot 
here by this mighty poor fire and fruz long enough. Them 
air logs must be greener'n grass, for they ain't dropped 
a durn ash yet." So giving them a kick, "to brisk it up," 
as he said, he "broke them all up." 

After a while they laid out on the piano cover a lunch 
of beans spread on bread, hard boiled eggs, onions, and a 
bottle of "something." Baby was yet tipping about mak- 
ing its explorations; it grasped the piano cover and pulled 
the contents thereon upon itself, bumped its cunning little 
nose and demolished the dinner. 

Then the father asked "Joppie, old boy," of the post- 
office, to pay him for his dinner, which he had lost in his 
State building. 

A young Englishman, with an American acquaintance, 
sat and visited upon the porch of Michigan. On being 
asked by the American if "he intended to thoroughly do 
the States," he nonchalantly replied: "O, yes, a couple of 
months will show me your whole country. 

"Hump," said the American, "you might as well try 
to find a proper elevation with a telescope strong enough 
placed at a proper angle to take it all in at once, as to ex- 
pect to do one-eighth of America in two years. It reminds 
me of that 'chestnut' story of the Englishman who was 
fresh in America. He awoke one morning in a western 
town, and on looking out the window saw some mountains, 
which seemed not far away. Soon he was dressed and 
started to walk to them, hoping to get up an appetite for 
breakfast. For over an hour he walked, but the moun- 
tains seemed no nearer to him than when he started. 
Meeting a Yankee, he asked him: "How far is it to those 
mountains?" 

"Thirty miles," said the Yankee. 

A shallow stream flowed by them. The Englishman 
began divesting himself of clothing. 

"What are you going to do?" said the Yankee. 

"Swim this river; I take no chances again in America, 
for I do not know but this stream is fathoms deep, and 
thirty miles wide." 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 359 

Just here we were joined by a merry party of Flintites, 
and went with them to the pleasant rooms in the north- 
east corner on the third floor, where for an hour there was 
held an informal reception and high carnival, too, in cele- 
bration of Mr. and Mrs. E. Mclntyre's twenty-fifth wed- 
ding anniversary. 

On the same day, in the North Dakota Building, it was 
our pleasure to meet all of her officials, and Hon. Jack 
Crawford, the genial Texas scout-poet. A young lady 
asked him if he remembered, while riding in the National 
O. A. E. parade, in Detroit, how from the porch of the First 
National Bank some ladies waved their handkerchiefs at 
him, and called him "Buffalo Bill," while he lifted his hat 
from his flowing locks, and threw lightning like glances 
from his eagle-like eyes. He replied that he did, and ap- 
preciated the compliment of being mistaken for a better 
looking gentleman than he was, adding: "Col. Cody is 
a brave and handsome soldier." 

On this same day Michigan officials received a letter 
of great consideration, which read: 

"Dear Sir: — I am keeper of a skunkery in Michigan. 
I would like to send you some young skunks for pets. 
Chain them in the vard and they will be a cute attrac- 
tion." 

That letter caused a telegraphic message to fly to the 
home of the skunk raiser "not to send xthem to-morrow, 
nor at any other time." 

The next morning, as two ladies were passing under the 
colonnaded w T alk of the Art Building, a workman dashed 
out of the carpenter shop, situated at the right, and jerked 
from one lady her handbag, containing diamonds, and 
several hundred dollars in money. Their screams quickly 
brought a guard, and he signaled for a patrol wagon, 
wilich soon arrived. The ladies, on recovering from their 
dazed condition from being knocked down by the fellow, 
described and identified a man, dressed like the workmen, 
sitting on a box 'mid shavings in the carpenter's shop. 
When asked about it he denied it all. The guard pushed 
aside the shavings, and there lay the missing bag. You 
can imagine the sequel better than it can be told here. 
But few words are needed to be used to tell it. Arrest; 
examination; trial; State's prison. 

On the day which Michigan celebrated, the famous 
West Point Cadet Band played on her green. Seated 



360 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

upon the ample platform were Michigan's officials. Gov. 
Kich, with President Palmer and Director-General Davis, 
were introduced in a fine speech given by President Wes- 
ton, who for years has been identified with the great in- 
terests of Grand Bapids. He served that city with rare 
capacity as her Mayor. 

In the evening followed the reception and grand ball. 
The Iowa Brass Band, numbering forty pieces, was sta- 
tioned on the corridor of the second floor, so that dancing 
might be indulged in over the whole building. Every 
Friday evening, Michigan welcomed all the States and 
people of all the world to her informal balls. None will 
ever forget those red letter nights, or the receptions given 
in other buildings, which were of the same order. 

The Mexican officials gave their receptions and dancing 
parties in Michigan. They, nor Michigan's representa- 
tives, will ever forget the grand strains of musical selec- 
tions which were played by their Mexican brass and 
stringed bands. Even now is floating to our ears the 
strains of the Mexican dance and in slow, stately measure, 
fancy sees those dignified gentlemen moving about and 
teaching fair American ladies their steps, which was to 
the ladies a new art in dancing. 

Memory loves to revel through the many scenes of by- 
gone happy days, spent in the Fair. All who were priv- 
ileged to be there treasure it as one of the brightest spots 
of their lives, and in visions we all again wander through 
the Art Palace and pause under the shaded portal of some 
particular room to catch another glimpse of our favorite 
painting, a piece of statuary classic and white. Some in 
retrospection are walking by those beautiful flowers 
which edged the walks of Wooded Island. These were 
shaded by great trees. We are now seated in an electric 
launch and gliding noiselessly down the lagoon, to gaze 
upon either side and see the classic facades of the Agri- 
cultural Building, or the porticos of others, or we see 
pinnacles and marble-like figures etched against the hazy- 
looking sky. And now we are wandering through grand 
rooms ablaze with lights, and peals of merry laugh- 
ter float distantly, indistinctly, with magic charm 
to our ears, from those whom we do not expect to meet 
again in this world. This brings to mind the reception 
given by the Mexican officials in Michigan's Building. 
Upon the same day of that evening, there was a gathering 
of great importance at the California Building. It was 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 361 

the occasion of forming "The International Press Club." 
This organization was composed of a large number of 
leaders in newspaper work, and is by this time without 
doubt a large organization. Upon that eventful evening, 
as they were about to disband, a messenger came over 
from the Michigan Building and delivered to them an 
invitation from Senor Garibi and Senor Serano, the head 
officials of the Mexican Commission, which stated that 
they hoped for the pleasure of meeting the new society 
which had just been formed, and also that of the Cali- 
fornians. In a short time nearly all had responded to 
the invitation. Among them were Mr. Henry Richter, 
of the New Orleans Times-Democrat, Louisiana; Miss 
Mary E. Culbertson, of Richmond, Indiana; Miss Qctavia 
W. Bates, of Detroit; Mr. A. Alexander, and Mr. Arm- 
strong, of Kentucky; and Mr. H. L. Cargill, of Mt. Eliot, 
Roxbury, Massachusetts. More names cannot be men- 
tioned. It has been said there is an "end to all things;" 
but one thing there is no end to is the subject, "The 
World's Fair," only as we cut it short in places, leaving 
a tangle behind and a worse one before us. The writer 
is wondering if those who were at this reception would not 
like to repeat it. She knows what the true answer would 
be: "To be sure, for it was the most enjoyable party 
given in the Fair at the Michigan Building." Formality 
was disposed of to quite a degree, which was one of the 
main reasons of it being supremely enjoyed by every one. 
Mr. H. L. Cargill gave an impromptu recitation, subject, 
"The Midway. " It was most affecting. Everyone's hand- 
kerchiefs were damp with briny tears, which flowed freely 
and more freely, as he progressed in his recitation. Be- 
fore he began to recite it is well to explain that the spec- 
tators were a select, few. . They, arranged themselves in 
a double row as if ready to dance t^e Virginia reeL Mr. 
Cargill seemed, to know by. intuition what was expected 
of him, so before he began his pathetic recitation he 
danced down the center with, his "willin' partner," while 
both of them, sang "Sir Richard De Coverly, Ha, Ha, Ha, 
Ha." > He bowed with the grace of a courtier, as he led 
the lady back, to her place. Then, with the eloquence of 
a bard, he recited his poem, which was a vast improvement 
upon the following lines, which have been substituted for 
it, owing to the fact that his« lines were not remembered 
by the writer: ,,. 



362 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

On the shores of memory I often shall linger, 

And listen for sounds from Old Midway; 

I'll look upon her pictures, which will bring back fond 

longings 
For its melodious music and life so gay. 

It requires much care and skill rhetorical 

To talk on Midway — it is so historical; 

To-day I was walking down its streets so enchanting, 

With a lady whom I was most proudly gallanting. 

She stepped like a queen of the drawing room, 
She poised her head proudly in air, 
She remarked, "I belong to the Congress of Beauty, 
And you, sir, belong to the Fair." 

I cannot believe all that glitters is gold, 

I swear to you all I'll ne'er again be sold 

By a dazzling beauty who appeared like a lady, 

Until suddenly she staggered and cried out "O'Grady." 

Now that you know all, 

We'll adjourn to the ball, 

Where in stately measure we'll gracefully prance 

To the slow, slow, Oh, so slow, Mexican dance. 

In the course of the evening some fancy dances were 
given by Miss Nellie Goodman, of Detroit. She danced 
in Wisconsin's Building as well as in Michigan's and other 
buildings, upon their reception evenings. This graceful 
and cultured young lady gave much pleasure to all who 
were so fortunate as to witness her dance. It was called 
the personification of poetic movement. She is gentle 
and kindly in her manner, and she has since the Fair been 
the recipient of many expressions of regard from ac- 
quaintances formed there. Miss Nellie was chaperoned 
by the wife of one of the officials, and remained with her 
as her guest for some time. It was with profound regret 
that she was parted with by all who knew her. Every 
evening throughout the Fair "Michigan" was resplendent 
in the bright glare of five hundred incandescent lights. 

But "there is an end to all things," and at the end of the 
Fair the lights went out and the many bright people has- 
tened away from the desolation and demolition which, 
on the first day of November, was immediately com- 






SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 363 

menced. All, as well as the officials of the World's Fair, 
bade each other "good-bye," and returned to their homes, 
very sad at giving up its social pleasures and the friend- 
ships formed there. It is doubtful if we shall ever meet 
again on earth. 

Yet sweetly falls on each ear 

Past words of comfort and cheer, 

Of courteous kindness toward each extended, 

As regretfully we said "The World's Fair is ended." 

Note. — Mr. Travers, one of Detroit's rising young art- 
ists, occupied an office in "Administration," doing official 
drawings of the many art pieces in order that they should 
be correctly preserved. This was done under the author- 
ity of the Exposition Company, who contributed them to 
art journals. It was our pleasure to often see these mas- 
terly collections of drawings done by this gentleman, for 
with portfolio under arm he always stopped "home" either 
going to or coming from the "Art Palace." All art 
seemed to be his forte, but especially so were the heavy 
pieces like "A Crocodile in the Embrace of a Lion," and 
"The Indian Hunt." He was gifted with great versatility 
and innate conception of execution. 



364 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 



DEDICATION OF THE MICHIGAN BUILDING. 

The dedication of the Michigan Building occurred on 
the morning of April 29th, 1893. Perhaps it will interest, 
if there is mentioned some of the discouragements and 
hard labor which accompanied the gathering together of 
material, through soliciting contributions both in ma- 
terial and money. Of these last two mentioned, prom- 
inent citizens of the State responded nobly; while en 
masse the citizens of the State of Michigan were deeply 
interested in seeing that the banner State of the Union 
did herself proud, and they went to the Fair with no 
shame-faced doubts regarding any department which she 
might represent, and they returned home prouder than 
they ever were of the Wolverine State. The highest to 
the most subordinate official worked in season and out 
of season to bring about the grand culmination of success^ 
in which they most nobly succeeded. And Michigan car- 
ried home unlimited honors, w T hich as a State she justly 
deserves. At the time of the dedication of the World's 
Fair grounds, 1892, the frame work of the Michigan Build- 
ing had been only a short time erected, ana it was not 
enclosed. The work upon the building progressed slowly, 
but there were good reasons for this. In comparing with 
other States which were situated nearer Chicago and so 
could command their resources much sooner and at less 
expense, it was found that Michigan officials were even 
ahead of these in completing and furnishing their build- 
ing first. There was not a carload of material sent steam- 
ing over the railroads directed to Michigan's World's Fair 
Commissioners that some official did not have to board 
the cars at South Park Station and ride down to Harvey, 
to then walk down the tracks of the Chicago & Grand 
Trunk Kailway, and search out the cars which were. la- 
beled for Michigan. Then they would find a railroad of- 
ficial, and with him go through endless yards upon yards 
of red tape, which sometimes kept them there a whole 
day waiting for hundreds of other cars to be drawn to 
the Fair grounds, or to be sent on to some other destina- 
tion; and when the sun was low in the west, the tired 
Michigan official, with hundreds of them from other States 
who were awaiting their turn, would be informed by an 
official of the road, if they wished to receive any attention. 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 365 

to come early in the morning, as the first that came would 
be first served. Sometimes these proceedings lasted for 
days. No one was to blame for it. The railway com- 
panies employed all the help that could be utilized, and 
the employes worked faithfully to send on their way the 
thousands of cars. We must not forget that all of this 
time of weary waiting, that workmen at the Fair grounds 
were waiting for the material to proceed with. There 
was not one thing attempted by any one interested in the 
Fair, that they did not meet with even worse experiences 
than these just mentioned. Large forces of laborers, 
numbering into the thousands, worked both night and 
day upon the buildings, while it seemed the icy breezes 
of Lake Michigan would freeze them to the very marrow. 

We have yet to understand how they held nails in their 
fingers, stiff with cold, long enough to hammer them in. 
As soon as the frost was out of the ground, the railroad 
tracks within the grounds, which ran over it in all direc- 
tions, were removed from their places; and as if by magic 
in a night only, our eyes would rest upon green lawns and 
broad white roadways, until at last everything was per- 
fected and in readiness for the nations of the earth to 
enjoy it. For two weeks before the dedication of the 
Michigan Building, carpenters and other workmen worked 
both night and day, in order to anticipate the wishes of 
the official boards, and to accomplish that which was to 
give pleasure and comfort upon dedication day to the 
people of Michigan. 

The tiling of the main reception room, or office, was 
laid under most discouraging circumstances. Narrow 
boards were elevated over the yet green work, a tippy- 
toppling arrangement, often breaking down, but luckily 
doing no damage. When in condition to be walked upon, 
never was seen a smoother, finer pavement, or one which 
wore better. At the end of the Fair, although it had been 
trod over and over again by millions of feet, it was still in 
good condition for years to come. 

This work was accomplished by Billings & Drew, of 
Detroit. On April 28th, the Grand Rapids parlor, not 
being finished, or furnished, as was the case of the rooms 
in every State building, it was decided by the officials 
that the lumber, tools and all that was unsightly or of 
objectionable appearance should be placed in this room, 
which afterwards became under the tasteful supervision 
of Mrs. M. J. Smiley, then a resident of Grand Rapids, 



366 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

but now of Chicago, one of the most beautiful parlors 
upon the grounds. 

So, on dedication day, everything which was objectiona- 
ble was stowed away in this room. All except one ob- 
ject; the reason It was not stored away for the day and 
throughout the whole of the Fair, was because only one 
official favored the proceedings, while the rest were "dead 
against it." This official was a very winning person, but 
it was seldom It won. Its nature, at times,. could honestly 
be compared to a gentle summer's breeze, but that was a 
fancy which was as deceitful as Lake Michigan itself; 
and the comparison drawn between this official and Lake 
Michigan is not libelous. It appeared serenely serene and 
placidly placid, just like the lake sometimes did, but we 
never knew when It like the lake would grow majestically 
angry, and from Its storm-crested waves throw quantities 
of bilious-looking foam, and when It madly rushed onto 
the "beach," the spectators always drew back to avoid 
It spitting in their faces. 

On dedication day the archway between the Grand 
Kapids parlor and the corridor was covered with canvas, 
which was drawn smooth, then tacked to the woodwork. 
Then it was curtained by two large flags of the Union. 
A graceful drapery of Old Glory surmounted it. Folds 
of the nation's colors drooped over the unfinished fire- 
places, all except the Muskegon reading room, which was 
first in being in perfect order for the reception of visitors 
at the Fair. 

On the evening before the dedication none of the decora- 
tions had been accomplished. Neither had the clearing 
out process begun, while Michigan's lawns, and those 
about the "Art Palace," the driveways, and looking in all 
directions, were rough and muddy. Horses sank knee- 
deep, and wagon wheels nearly to the hubs in the miry 
substance, but hundreds of men labored all the night 
through by the aid of electricity, and when morning came, 
all of the unsightliness and discomfort had been changed 
to a scene of neatness and beauty. Green lawns and 
smooth white roadways greeted the eye, and the white 
limestone had been rolled down fine by means of the 
steam crusher. 

Inside and outside of Michigan's home the transforma- 
tion was indeed surprising. Hundreds of "Old Glories" 
were tastefully draped over its interior. Banks of flowers 
and vases of them graced mantels, tables and window- 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 367 

seats. Smilax seemed to have grown to the ceilings in 
a night. Everywhere were seen cut roses in bloom. All 
of this prettiness displayed was contributed through the 
labor and fine taste displayed by Miss Beebe, of Detroit,, 
matron of the building, whose force of servants, through 
her energetic ability, kept Michigan's State Building at 
all times the cleanest of any at the Fair. 

By nine o'clock, hundreds of "Michiganders" had con- 
gregated to help celebrate the dedication of their building, 
of which they are proud to know, was the most hospitable, 
and home-like, of any, and it had all conveniences which 
would contribute to their comfort while visiting the Fair. 

Presently the Benton Harbor Band played, and in 
grand concert pealed from Wolverine throats : 

"Home of my heart, I sing of thee, 
Michigan, my Michigan." 

Then again : 

"Her sons still onward march to fame, 
Michigan, my Michigan." 

Until it was finished by them, even the last line. 

Then came a notable procession, President Palmer, 
"Michigan's own," escorted Governor Rich and staff, which 
was followed by Speaker -Tatem, of the House of Repre- 
sentatives, and following after him came the Michigan 
Officials. This imposing representation from Michigan 
seated themselves on a broad landing leading to the first 
staircase, where were already seated many more of the 
State's distinguished citizens. 

The address of welcome and the presentation of the 
solid silver key of the building, to which was attached a 
silver plate with the names of the Michigan officials upon 
it, was presented by President Weston. 

His speech was a remarkably fine piece of oratory; so 
complete and perfect was its diction and beauty of lan- 
guage that it received favorable comments from the press, 
and all who heard him. The key was carried to Lansing 
by the Governor, and placed in the archives of Michigan's 
Capitol. 

The Governor followed President Weston in a con- 
gratulatory speech upon the able work which had been 
done by him and Secretary Mark W. Stevens, and the offi- 
cials. Then followed a speech made by Speaker Tatem, 
after which, citizens of Michigan, and her guests from sis- 



368 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

ter States, ascended the grand staircase to the second floor, 
where refreshments were served. Following this, a tour 
of inspection was made over the building by the officials 
and guests. 

The electric light fixtures here, as in many other build- 
ings, were not in running order until June 1st. So the 
reception to the Governor and the dedicatory ball was held 
in the evening at the "Hyde Park," and that was another 
"red letter" night in this hostelry, which is so dear to the 
hearts of her World's Fair guests. Never had her rooms 
beheld a more imposing array of distinguished people 
of the world. 

The Governor and Mrs. Eich, Speaker Tatem and wife, 
with the magnificently uniformed officers of the Gover- 
nor's staff, made a handsome and brilliant appearance, 
standing near the marble stairs of the main reception 
parlors. 

In fancy we are again living in that auspicious scene 
where Michigan's executive and his worthy wife, and the 
others mentioned, welcomed the Marquis Eurico Ungaro, 
private counselor to the King of Italy, Count R. Piola 
Casetti, Cav. Giuseppe Guetta, both of the Queen's Im- 
perial Guards. After them there came for presentation 
over thirty representatives of Italy. Then Hon. Mr. Baker 
and wife, he, the Royal Commissioner of Dublin, Lady 
Arnaugh and daughter, cousins to Lord and Lady Aber- 
deen. These distinguished people arrived that evening, 
fatigued from their long journey, but in time for presen- 
tation, after which they begged to be excused. Then were 
presented two of the representatives of Her Majesty, the 
Queen of England, Mrs. Crawford and Mrs. Austin, then 
Signor Zeggio, who had charge of the Queen's laces of 
Italy, and hundreds of distinguished notables to which 
space cannot be given. 

Michigan's officials, headed by the Governor and Mrs. 
Rich, Speaker Tatem and wife, then foreign dignitaries 
and representatives for the World's Fair were followed 
by the Governor's staff, and lastly by Michigan officials 
and their ladies. They moved down the marble stairs 
and passed between stately palms standing in banks of 
green, dotted with flowers, thence into the ball room, 
where the ball was opened by leading dignitaries of the 
world. A unique, yet fascinating, sight it was, looking 
upon officers in the uniforms of their different countries. 
But none were so attractive and splendid to an American 



Six MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 369 

as were the gold buttons, cords and epaulettes worn upon 
the blue and gray-coated soldiers of America. A country 
which has given to the World more literature, more great 
men and women of greater personal beauty, worth and 
wit, than has ever any country in the world's history. 

And the Fair has been the means of establishing a 
strong bond of heartfelt respect and good feeling between 
Americans and foreigners. Upon this auspicious evening 
officials wearing red coats and white coats, embroidered 
in gold, moved about. 

There were bright flashing glances of brown eyes and 

blue, 
Fair forms in drapery of every hue, 
Lightly all tripped in musical rhyme, 
In a fairy like revel which was o'er in due time. 

Two fair goddesses reigned o'er the scene, 
'Twas Purity and Culture, and each was a queen. 
Love chained them together; friendships like these, 
With tearless eyes and hearts at ease. 

In dreams again, in fancy we share, 
That eventful evening just before the World's Fair, 
And we send forth this greeting from all who were there, 
"Hyde Park is remembered as well as the Fair." 



370 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 



ADDITIONAL REMARKS. 

It has not been the intention of the writer to leave un- 
mentioned irany officials and other acquaintances of the 
Fair, but there are a few which should receive mention. 
James W. Flynn, of Detroit, Michigan, was one of the 
members of the Executive Committee on Finances. He 
was the Treasurer; a splendid financial manager and un- 
commonly well fitted to dispense Michigan's World's Fair 
money economically. This he did to the satisfaction of 
everyone, from ex-Governor Winans, who was the Chief 
Executive who appointed the Michigan Board; and Gov- 
ernor Eich, who followed him, was well pleased with Mr. 
Flynn, as was President Weston and every member of the 
Board. One evening there assembled in the Board room 
nearly all of Michigan's officials, other members of "Michi- 
gan's Home," and the servants of the house. It was a 
pleasant occasion which is remembered with pleasure by 
all of them. This occasion was the presentation of a dia- 
mond pin by all members of the household, to President 
Weston. A short but pleasing presentation speech was 
made in behalf of the inmates of the building by Secretary 
Mark W. Stevens. Mr. Weston was completely surprised, 
and after a few moments made an appropriate reply of 

appreciative thanks, then turning towards Mrs. 

he requested her to perform the happy task of placing 
it upon his necktie. He was assured by the lady that it 
was one of the most delightful and honored privileges 
ever accorded her. Among the members who were in 
this assemblage, was one who was to be the first that 
should be called to God's summer land. It Was the hon- 
ored wife of J. J. Woodman, of Paw Paw, Michigan. A 
few evenings after she became suddenly blind, and did 
not recover from it for some time. Her friends were im- 
pressed that it was a premonition of further misfortune 
to her. It proved to be the case, for in one short year 
from that time she passed away. She was an interesting- 
lady, she cherished high ideals of life and lived up to 
them. Mr. Woodman's son, an only child, and his pretty 
young wife, were the shadows of "Father and Mother 
Woodman." If any one member of this family was needed 
to be seen by any one, certain it was that in searching out 
the whereabouts of one there was alwavs found all four 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WOELD'S FAIR. 371 

members of this agreeable family who were devoted in 
an unnsnal degree to each other. Mr. Woodman, Sr.,. 
and Mr. Jndson Belden, Jr., had charge of the agricul- 
tural booth in the Agricultural Building. In this booth 
were seen the largest ears of corn upon the tallest of corn 
stalks, great sheaves of wheat, rye and oats with perfect 
cereals. An attractive decoration in this booth was a 
representation of wax figures dressed in the straws and 
fine grasses of the State. 

It was called "The Farmer's Family/' but was rechris- 
tened "The Happy Family." Mr. Edwin Belden, the eld- 
est son* of Mr. E. H. Belden, had sole charge of a large 
electrical exhibit in the Electricity Building. He is an 
electrical student of great ability. E. H. Belden, Exec- 
utive Commissioner and Vice-President of the Michigan 
Board, took great pride in the horticultural exhibit. He 
had charge of this and many other departments. 

Another valuable member of the Michigan Board was 
Hon. Peter White, of Marquette; also Mr. M. Henry Lane, 
of Kalamazoo, and Mr. George H. Barbour, of Detroit. 
These last named gentlemen were United States Commis- 
sioners for Michigan, and they, with all other officials,, 
helped to make the showing from Michigan a grand suc- 
cess. 

Only those are mentioned whom the writer knew per- 
sonally, or those of whom the opportunity was given her 
to inquire into their lines of work. Mrs, E. J. P. Howes, 
of Battle Creek, United States Lady Manager, occupied 
the same official position as Mrs. S. C. S. Angell, of Ann 
Arbor. Both of these ladies were energetic and fully ex- 
emplified that they were most capable in their lines of 
work. Mrs. F. P'. Burrows, of Kalamazoo, wife of the 
Hon. Julius Caesar Burrows, was Alternate Lady Mana- 
ger and faithfully carried out her obligations to the 
State. She was eminently fitted to have been a United 
States Lady Manager, but it was an honor to be even a 
* part or parcel of the Fair, for from the highest to the most 
subordinate position, it placed upon every official great 
responsibility. It is said of Mrs. Burrows' resident city, 
Kalamazoo, and of the City of Flint, that in wealth, ele- 
gant residences and attractive driveways, they rank next 
to Detroit. "Alternates" Ernest B. Fisher, of Grand Rap- 
ids, and Joseph T. Whittier, of Saginaw, fully exemplified 
their executive capabilities in their official positions in 
the Fair. I wonder if there is any harm in speaking of a 



■372 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

certain official if it is not stated in what State he resides? 
He was bright, witty, intensely amusing, the most inter- 
esting gentleman, all said who met him, that they ever 
knew. He used to often come into the Michigan Building 
to call up some one by telephone. It was always like 
this: "Hello" (impatient adjectives, of a riotous order; 
this before it was possible for the party at the other end 
of the line to reply), and sooner than this explanation can 
be read by the reader, he would yell "good-by" (adjectives 
and some more of the same order). He had no patience 
with a telephone; he said it rattled him and made him 
feel like a wild man from Borneo. He said he hated 
impromptu speech-making, made by himself or any one 
else over the telephone. He used to remark if he could 
only write his messages out in Dr. Johnson's choicest 
style, then place them in the receiver, and blow upon it 
with his mouth to send them to their destination, and then 
receive an answer "lightning quick," back in the same 
manner, he would be satisfied. He said, "I cannot under- 
stand why Gray's telautograph is not used upon these 
grounds, instead of telephones;" he sighed wearily and pro- 
ceeded with his remarks, saying, "I suppose the telephone 
company keeps saucy girls at the central station on pur- 
pose for just such people as myself. The fact is, the mo- 
ment I hear one of those central girls yell back 'hello,' I 
forget what I wish to say, and feel as embarrassed as 
that Mr. Tennyson tells he felt when asked to respond to 
a toast at a banquet." Mr. Tennyson tells about it in his 
book entitled "A Tale of the World's Fair," published by 
P. T. Neely, of Chicago. The book was written in the 
interests of the Phenix Insurance Co. It abounds in de- 
tails which are both picturesque and graphic to the im- 
agination. 

He gives a vivid description of a trip taken with thou- 
sands of "World's Fair" dignitaries to the White Sulphur 
Springs, where was held by these distinguished people a 
grand banquet. This erratic and eccentric State official, 
although he was a profound scholar, remarked that had 
he been called upon unawares to respond to "Beautiful 
Florida," or any other subject, he thought his mental con- 
dition at that time would be typical if not in a worse state 
of mind than was Mr. Tennyson, who writes, "Suddenly 
I heard my name called, I had been taken unawares, and 
was asked to respond to 'Beautiful Florida.' I thought 
that the lights went out and left me in total darkness, yet 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 37& 

I could dimly see hands flopping and handkerchiefs wav- 
ing when they cheered. I thought the Charleston earth- 
quake was being repeated and thought I felt the earth 
slipping from under me. I staggered to my feet. My 
hands were tightly clenched, and my teeth were set. I 
do not know as I said anything of what I thought. I was 
thinking of hpme, the peaceful retreat of youthful seclu- 
sion, and longed for a plunge into the Everglades. I was 
in a horrible nightmare of torture. The next morning I 
read in 'The Florida Times' a purport of my speech. I 
clipped it out. I have not the heart to disturb its serene 
garb." 

Here it is,, occupying its legitimate place in World's 
Fair history: 

Ladies and Gentlemen : If there is one more than an- 
other who should drink to the health of this flower-bathed 
land, I am that drinker. In this sun-kissed State I first 
saw the color of light, and formed the acquaintance of 
my parents. This is a land of magnitude, of compass, of 
magnificent distances, heights and depths. From this 
land grows immensity itself. Strong in creative force, it 
is patient in detail. When it grew the mighty palm, it also 
grew the little blades of grass. When it wrought the ever- 
lasting hills, it wrought also the little grain of sand. 
When it formed these fathomless lakes it formed the tiny 
shell upon their shores. When it made the mighty seas, 
it made the insects that abide within them. When it grew 
me, it grew a daisy (enthusiastic applause). Great in his- 
tory, bright in memories, it rose above the din of wrecking* 
worlds yvithout a tremor, and from her throne of beauty 
ruled the world. She sat upon her seven hills grand, 
gloomy and peculiar, and if that be treason make the best 
of it. Look at St. Augustine, that dark-browed, sweetly- 
smiling Sappho by the sea, ancient, gray-haired, and yet 
so strong. The Spanish blood that once proudly coursed 
its veins, was revolutionized in 177^, and Americanized 
during the last earthquake. Its fame is world extensive, 
and had there ]>een another set of seven hills it would have 
been there. Loolf at our lakes, so clear that the heavens 
bend under the same as above, and where generations on 
generations have dragged up drowned honor by the locks. 
(Cheers.) Look, at our air, so clear you cannot see it, so 
gracious, so, child-like and bland; it smelleth the battle 
afar off, and its neck is clothed with thunder. (Applause.) 



-374 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

Look at our sun, brighter than any sun as it rises up over 
the Rocky Mountains, stern sentinels of the stars, and 
spreads its burnished pinions to the east, bathes its 
plumage in the thunder's home, and settles down at night 
to rest upon its eastern crag. Look at our moon as it rises 
fresh washed from the western waves, floats like a radiant 
angel over southern seas, and, like a ball of far off fading 
fire (cheers), rolls down the eastern skies and wakes the 
sleeping nations under ground. (Wild applause.) 

Look at our stars, the holes punched through the 
heavens to paradise, the windows of the new Jerusalem, 
shedding their light on this land of flowers like the beams 
of an angel's smile. (Applause.) When Florida rose as a 
tawny youth to do battle in its race with civilization, it 
girded its loins with the red band of sunset, bended its 
bows from the forests primeval and tipped its arrows with 
the horns of the moon. Before its strong arm the Indian, 
the Spanish, the French and the British were made to bite 
the dust (applause), but the dust still lives. (Uproarious 
applause.) But the American eagle, that fierce bird of 
war, now mates with the dove, that sweet emblem of peace. 
You may talk about your Lexingtons and Yorktowns, your 
Joshuas and suns and moons and your flying cars, but 
Columbus came nearer discovering America right here 
than any place in the world, and four hundred years have 
indorsed the wisdom of his choice. Where is the land thus 
honored? Where, gentlemen, in all the extent of a slum- 
bering continent was it wakened from its sleep by the 
touch of civilization? Right here, here where the chariot 
rolled from out the sea and scattered the dews of a new life 
upon its quickening form. Here arose that splendor and 
grandeur which eclipsed the radiance of the east and set 
upon the brow of hoary age the signet of its own immor- 
tality. The eternal sun, the everlasting hills, the great 
globe itself bows in holy reverence to the matchless glory 
of this great commonwealth and crowns her the revered 
mother of all the States. Among these scenes was free- 
dom first unchained and when its century-locked shackles 
burst, its voice of triumph broke through the day and rang 
down the ages, awaking patriotism in the slumbering 
valleys and up the immortal mountain heights, until 
throughout this land, o'er budding leagues and blooming 
States, the light of liberty burst from the billows of night. 
(Sensation.) Mother of States, I greet you. Spirit of free- 
dom, unborn millions will bless you, and from the east, 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 375 

west, north and south, the hymn of the new redemption 
will rise to crown your brow with song, and in thy lofty 
ears will hum the music of the spheres and the morning 
stars in chorus set, till in the words of that noble bard — 
the poet — poet — I have forgotten his name, but he said — 
he said — said — I've forgotten what he said, too. (Wild 
and continued applause.) As long as the heavens shall 
bend above us, as long as the earth shall stand beneath, so 
long will this, the crown and glory of all States, stand like 
the immortal matchlessness of everlasting eternity. The 
diadems of the Caesars and the crowns of potentates shall 
grow lusterless and faint in the presence of thy vaulting 
altitude and limitless boundlessness of the fathomlessness 
greatness of thy indeterminable extensiveness. States 
upon States, continents upon continents, worlds upon 
worlds, heavens upon heavens, time without end, ages 
without limit, eons, the World's Fair, Florida, hallelujah, 
Fourth of July. E pluribus unum, gloria. 



376 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 



NEW, YORK. 

This great State appropriated f 600,000 to defray the ex- 
penses of its exhibits and building, which for real, solid 
grandeur, was the most noted of the States. 

It, was a reproduction, slightly modified, of the old Van 
Rensselaer residence, which for many years was one of 
the historic landmarks of New York City, and it recalls 
to us memories of an interesting period in our national 
history, when that great commercial and financial me- 
tropolis was but a straggling, seaport town. 

The New York State Building was fifty feet wide by 
two hundred feet long. It represented an expenditure of 
over |150,000. The outer and inner decorations were 
beautiful. The State was fittingly represented in every 
department of the Exposition. 

At the right and left of the vestibuled porch were 
grotto fountains. About them on the walls were decora- 
tions in mosaics, done in the Venetian style, of Egyptian 
figures and faces, besides fishes, shells, and birds. 

In the center of the main hall, on its marble floor, were 
the signs of the zodiac laid in brass. In the grand parlor 
was a gold-covered Steinway & Son's piano. The fur- 
nishings of every room were impressively grand, being 
hundreds of years old. There were gold-covered chests, 
fit to hold the linen and bridal finery of a princess, and 
antique cabinets, thickly set with queerly-shaped animals 
and birds. Strange, was it not, that some sightseers 
insisted on slyly digging out these pearl and ivory de- 
signs, we suppose to carry home as souvenirs. It ruined 
the looks and value of the cabinets, and it seemed to us 
an impossible art for any one to imitate those original 
designs, and it is very doubtful if it can be done as suc- 
cessfully as those were. 

There were chairs, tables and screens of the Italian 
Renaissance. The screens were in beautiful designs of 
hand modeled leather. This particular kind is a lost art, 
which was done by artists in Italy hundreds of years ago. 
In all of the rooms was seen grand old tapestry, and 
mammoth chandeliers glittered with heavy ropes of 
crystal. „ 

On the eastern porch, leading from the reading room, 
and ladies' parlor, was a fountain which, aided by the 






SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 37 £ 

breeze from Lake Michigan, made it delightfully cool 
there. On climbing the marble stairs, we gazed upon, 
walls and ceilings rich in classic decorations. They were 
ropes of roses, and spreading vines, while hiding between 
them were classic figures. On arriving at the top of 
stairs, we found ourselves in a long, wide hall, which was 
hung with tapestries hundreds of years old. Next we 
passed into the magnificent banquet hall, which was also 
used for receptions and balls, which were given always, 
in a splendid and expensive manner by the New York 
officials. 

How shall we describe the splendor of this banquet 
hall? We can only try, and if in our anxiety to place it 
before you we could possibly carry out the plan, we 
would in fancy once more cause you to walk the length 
of the grand room, whose walls and pillars were com- 
pletely covered with relief decorations of every descrip- 
tion. These had the appearance of being carved out of 
cream-colored marble. 

Gold and scarlet were prominent over its yellowish 
whiteness; this gave it a look of antiquity. The gallery 
was a marvel of golden openwork, with a background of 
red. At one end of the room were tall, heavy-globed 
electric lamps of solid brass. These were very large, ele- 
gant in pattern and proportioned in a massiveness to cor- 
respond with this mammoth room. 

In the alcoves were old tapestries, and pictured upon 
them were ancient people of long ago going to war. Just 
then the band most appropriately happened to play "Yes,, 
Let Me Like a Soldier Die." This band was directed by 
Sousa, and it filled our ears with sweet strains of music, 
while our eyes rested on beauties utterly unexplainable. 
It is hard to describe what our feelings and thoughts 
were; this much we knew: that happy moments were 
flying by. In one sense it was a butterfly existence; yet 
reverently and lovingly was touched the lyre of the soul's 
best impulses, and in thought we hastened on to greater 
happiness, that of doing work of an elevating nature, if 
perchance it awaited us. The Fair awakened grand im- 
pulses and noble aspirations in the heart of humanity. 
And all are better for havingseen it, and most unwillingly 
they gave up those fleeting pleasures of which they knew, 
that like the fairies in fairyland, there would a time come 
when the revel must cease. 

In another room hung two centennial banners em- 



378 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

broidered by the women of New York. The one of 1776 
was not as elaborate as the one of 1876; both were his- 
torically decorated in designs typical of the nation's his- 
tory, which dated back to over one hundred years ago, 
and they progressed in delineating history up to nearly 
that of the present. An inscription upon one read: 

"The Lord God be with you as He was with our fathers. 
From the daughters of New York to their sisters of the 
Union." 

Next we passed into a very pretty room. Its oiled 
floor was spread with snowy white fur rugs. The walls 
were decorated with pumpkin vines and blossoms. There 
was a table covered with snowy damask, and very ele- 
gantly set with china for a teaparty. 

In the room containing antiquities we found the Van 
Eensselaer cannon of two hundred years ago, which they 
brought to this country with them, and fired on the death 
or birth of any member of the family. There were ex- 
hibited large silver punch bowls, with covers, which were 
presented to Governor De Witt Clinton, on the occasion 
of the opening of the Erie Canal. These were loaned by 
his great niece, Mrs. Baldwin. Next we saw a freedom 
suit which was presented to Jonathan Sheldon in 1778, 
by his employer at the close of his apprenticeship. There 
were warming pans. These long-handled affairs looked 
as though they might have been convenient for many 
other things beside throwing into them hot coals, and 
then running them over a cold bed. We heard several 
say that perhaps they had sometimes been used to spank 
the "young 7 uns" with. 

There was shown the manuscript of a sermon, so worn 
it would not bear touching. It was delivered in July of 
1722. It looked like a real long sermon, and we were 
glad we did not have to listen to it on that hot day in 
July, for we imagined that from it an odor of brimstone 
was wafted to our nostrils, and that we listened to this 
terrible sermon delivered by a "good man of God," and 
its sentiments sent all of God's loved children into outer 
darkness and into the fire that quenched not. On leaving 
this room we went to where the elevator was situated. 
The party were politely waved in by stately gestures given 
by a dignified colored gentleman dressed in livery. On 
arriving at the garden roof he again was no more polite 
than it was always his custom to be. An old lady of the 
party was deeply impressed, saying that "his polite man- 






SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 379' 

ners was worth a fortin to him. Why, he acted toward 
me as though he was s&lutin' the Queen o' Sheba. I feel 
real stuck up. Mebe he thinks Fm a Vanderbilt or an 
Astor." Her meek little husband, with a weak voice 
piped up: "Every one admires you, wifey, and though 
you are not Mrs. Astor, you are my old china astor just 
the same." Her dear old face glowed with pride, and 
she said : 

"My old man can say the pertiest things, and he alius 
takes pains to say 'em to me instead o ? to any un else." 

Here was given us a fine view of buildings standing 
? mid beautifully laid out grounds, lying amid forests of 
trees. The vast waters of Lake Michigan were dotted 
with steamers and barges of every description. We 
looked onto the roof of the Idaho Building, piled with 
rows of heavy stones. This effect helped to carry out 
the representation intended, that of a Tyrolese peasant 
house. 

After leaving the roof of the New York Building we 
loitered for a time in its beautiful rooms, and then went 
over to the Delaware Building, where we were given 
some delicious peaches, all we wished of them to eat. 
There were hundreds of bushel baskets filled with the 
great, luscious fruit, which the Commissioners of Dela- 
ware gave to all visitors. 

But we must return to New York. 

No official is better remembered than the genial Mrs. 
Ealph Trautman, ex-lady manager of New York, who 
presided with dignity and grace at the grand receptions. 
The one given in honor of the West Point Cadets was an 
occasion not to be forgotten. It was an imposing array 
of military officers from over the whole world. Col. Fred 
Grant and wife were there, accompanied by Mrs. Grant 
and Mrs. Sartoris, Gen. Miles and wife, his staff, and 
hundreds of other noted people. Every one, especially 
the young ladies, were enthusiastic over the cadets, and 
said they were the finest specimens of manhood they had 
ever beheld. 

Oh! how busy the "boy-god" Love was; he who was 
born when earth was created. His quivers were full. He 
let fly his arrows, while an extra force of Cupids at his 
command did most complete and artistic work, while for 
one week the cadets were encamped near the Government 
Building. Every day they went through with the most 
perfect evolutions in military tactics of any military body 



380 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

in the world. They were sensible young men, or they 
would have been spoiled with flattery and the attentions 
which they received from all directions. 

Most impressive was the scene when the cadets visited 
Col. Cody's "Wild West Show," when the armies repre- 
senting the world came in on horseback. At the head 
of each column was carried the flag which represented 
their country. But when the glorious Stars and Stripes 
passed by, nothing could have been more impressive. 
The cadets arose in a body, removed their caps, and 
saluted the flag. It was the "red letter" week of the 
Fair to the "fair," all on account of the presence of the 
cadets. 

All entertainments given that week were mag- 
nificent with the predominant glitter of uniforms 
and the richest of costumes worn by the ladies. 
All these caused those gatherings to be unusually 
bright and attractive; and when "tents dropped" 
and they marched away to the air played by the 
band, "The Girl I Left Behind Me," 'twas a sad day to 
the "fair," who, accompanied by their chaperons, tear- 
fully waved handkerchiefs, while some said humorous 
and irrelevant things, which of course was to deceive and 
help them hide from the world's gaze their broken hearts. 
It should have proved a great consolation to them that 
their sentiments were only on a par with those of the 
cadets. 

One of them, Mr. B., was so affected over taking his 
departure that he drifted in a wee bit of poetry and re- 
cited : 

Love at first a pleasure 

Has become prolific of pain, 

For we part with saddest of heartaches, 

Yet hope to soon meet again. 

The World's Fair farewell banquet, given to the World's 
National Commissioners and their friends, was held in 
the "Banquet Hall" of the New York Building. In other 
places upon the grounds and in the City of Chicago, were 
other social affairs in progress- Naturally all were sad 
at the prospect of parting with each other and leaving 
their "Heaven on Earth" as they were wont to call it, and 
it is no wonder that they felt that sentiment, for amid 
all the splendor of The World's Columbian Exposition, 
-was constantly found kindly, cultured, and true-hearted 



SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 381 

people, possessed of lovely natures which were typical 
of the beauty of the White City; and it was there we dis- 
covered one of the secrets of earthly happiness, that is, 
it depends upon what people really are; not what they 
try to impress one that they are. In this loved place 
predominated unselfishness and a real, heartfelt interest 
for each other; and when in one gathering of a large 
company they sang "Blest be the Tie That Binds," it 
was rendered in a manner which would have convinced 
the most skeptical, that brotherly love existed there in 
large measure. While the guests were feasting in the 
grand "Banquet Hall," voluptuous strains of music were 
played by an orchestra stationed in the golden balcony. 
It was a happy scene; yet there was felt a premonition of 
coming evil. Coming events seemed to cast their 
shadows before. Yes, death's messengers were prowling 
about, but all endeavored to throw care and sorrow to the 
winds, and to lift from their heavy spirits that which 
seemed like a dank, damp, black funeral pall. Some of 
the ladies wove a garland of laurels and placed it upon 
the snowy brow of the Hon. Col. Wyman, of Khode Island. 
As he arose to make the farewell speech, he was pelted 
by all the guests with flowers. Standing in the midst of 
them, the venerable gentleman was "the fairest flower of 
all," and his speech carried us, in spirit, to the "better 
land." He said: 

"Fm an old man, and it is certain that a few more years 
will close my life's page on earth, but when I've reached 
God's land, which lies in the bright beyond, and am stand- 
ing on the shore of the crystal river, I shall gaze eagerly 
across its shining waves and keep tryst for the first 
World's Fair friend; and loved ones there with faces di- 
vinely fair, will clasp them to their breasts as closely as 
will I in the New World where friendships are never sev- 
ered." 

In the midst of his speech a messenger was admitted, 
who hastened to his side and whispered something in his 
ear. His white head dropped lower and lower, until his 
chin rested upon his breast. A dark, unfathomable mys- 
tery was present, spreading over the company like a fu- 
neral pall. In heart-broken tones he informed the guests 
that it was his sad duty to inform them that Mayor Car- 
ter Harrison had just been foully assassinated. 

The company, like hundreds of other gatherings in the 
city upon that ominous night, filed slowly and sadly out 

0388 397 



382 SIX MONTHS AT THE WORLD'S FAIR. 

to the "Dead March from Saul"; all were wrapped in 
thoughts too sad to express. The grand festivities which 
were to have been at Festival Hall on the last day of the 
Fair were omitted, and instead a requiem was chanted. 
It was a sad ending to the mammoth Exposition which, 
had Mayor Harrison lived, might in a measure have been 
extended another year through the influence and interest 
which had, and surely would have been manifested by 
this kindly and public-spirited man. 

Note. — The antique furnishings and all others in this 
building were lent by Cypher & Co., and the Duseen Bros., 
of New York. 













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